Break-in - Cam or Piston?

[PHIL_B54]

i now have my wiseco stk bore 11:1 piston, and my web cam "sturdivant drop-in" grind is on its way (thanks bmw500hp) along with gaskets. question is how to break it in.

Hotcams break-in procedure
"Upon initial start up it is very important you DO NOT let the engine idle. The engine must run for at least 20 minutes at 3000 rpm or better. We recommend a light trail ride-to maintain the engine RPM above 3000 rpm. Only light engine loads are to be used. No excessive rpm or lugging. Let the engine cool. Check your valve clearances again."

it seems like you have to pick one, cam or piston. i like the idea of the moto tune break-in
http://www.mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm, but it seems that in breaking in the cam it would not break in the piston correctly or the other way.

i thought i would throw this out for some thoughts or ideas

[cals400ex]

i always thought that the piston break in is most important. i don't think the cam will break in too much. i would follow moto-tune's break in procedures if it was me.

[speedy400]

my research-
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30887&highlight=piston+rings
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37254
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46520&highlight=break+process
:devil:
-darren

[PHIL_B54]

thanks for the reply's guys

thats it, which is more important to break in?
the moto-tune piston-rings break-in (i may need to re-read) sounds like you want to give her a little more hell than the cam should have. i dont want the cam-rockers wearing funny

[nakomis0]

I think they say DO NOt LET idle... because theres no oil up in the head, and you need the rpms to throw some oil up there. Just use moly oil, or maybe even throw some motor oil in there before you put the head on. (or pour it down the valve cover hole)

The piston is prolly more important. but a few revs with a new piston aint gonna hurt it .

[PHIL_B54]

anyone else?

[Glamis400ex]

When Dune Surfer and I built my 416, just before putting the head on, I left 1 valve cap off and poured in like 4-5 ounces of oil. That way, when I started it up, I knew for sure, she had oil in there. I didnt worry about mine idleing for a few minutes...runs fine.

Glamis

[PHIL_B54]

the oil down the valve adj hole sounds like a great idea

the more i think about the whole thing, the less im worried about messing it up

[bmw500hp]

O.K. I know this is a little long but It more or less is the break in I used...I just got excited and pushed it a little...lol

By the way, keep my posted on how you like your new set-up. I can't say enough good about mine. Also, I wasn't going to take off my air box lid but started to and like Don said it runs even better...That big lift will pull some air!

DUNCAN RACING INTERNATIONAL INC. - TECHNICAL INFORMATION

4 STROKE ENGINE BREAK-IN

After your engine has been completely installed in the chassis. Be sure all fluids have been filled (oil, coolant etc.). Before starting a freshly rebuilt engine it is strongly recommended to make sure that the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned and fuel tank has been flushed clean. Fresh fuel should always be used. Air box should be cleaned and a new or freshly serviced air filter should be installed. Once the above steps have been completed, you should be ready to start your engine and follow the engine break-in instructions below.

IMPORTANT RECOMMENDATION: Upon initial start up of a fresh engine, make sure that the engine is getting oil to the top end (valve train). Most OEM service manuals will cover the necessary procedure to check this for your specific model machine.

PART I (3-Idle periods, 3-Cool down periods)

IDLE: Start engine and let idle with a fan blowing on the front of the engine, to simulate Tiding type
conditions without a load on the engine. Let engine idle for exactly 10 minutes.
COOL DOWN: Shut engine off after 10 minutes of running and let machine cool down for a minimum
of 30 minutes. Let fan continue to blow on engine.
IDLE: Repeat first step
COOL DOWN: Repeat second step.
IDLE: Repeat first step.
COOL DOWN: Repeat second step.

PART 11 (6-Riding periods, 6-Cool down periods)

RIDE: Ride machine for 10 minutes. Make sure to vary your RPM range. Ride machine at 50% of your normal riding pace. Be careful not to put any unnecessary strain on the motor during break-in. COOL DOWN: After 10 minutes of riding, shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride for 10 minutes at 60% of your normal pace. COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride for 10 minutes at 70% of your normal pace. COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride for 10 minutes at 80% of your normal pace. COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride for 10 minutes at 90% of your normal pace. COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes. RIDE: Repeat initial riding period. But ride for 10 minutes at 100% of your normal pace. COOL DOWN: Shut machine off and let machine cool down for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Break-in should now be complete. Confirm that carburetion settings are correct and give your machine a complete safety check before continuing your riding.

TIPS FOR A SMOOTHER BREAK-IN

- Do not use paddle tires. Stay away from deep sand dunes, mud etc. Until break-in is complete.

- Check that all fluid levels are correct.

- Check carburetion jetting periodically during break-in.

- Check all engine mount and chassis bolts are secure during coold down periods.

- Check all oil or coolant lines are secure and free from oil leaks.

- Make sure exhaust system remains secure. Snug at cylinder head with engine warm.

- Valve clearance should be checked after approximately 5 hours of initial running time.

- Re-adjust cam chain tension when applicable.

- Keep drive chain in adjustment.



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[bmw500hp]

Now, I noticed you posted a break in for a "hotcams" which is not in conflict with the Duncan Racing proceedure I posted. I am not hear to claim which is correct. I just took it upon myself to use it. You may consider printing and faxing it to WEB-CAMS. Let the technical dept. review and give you the thumbs up or down.

Good luck:D

[PHIL_B54]

i posted the hotcams break-in because it is a simmilar drop in cam.

bmw have you ever read the moto-tune break in tips? im not saying they're right or not, but i am seriously interested in it

really im thinking of doing kind of a mixture of all the stuff

dont idle for first cycle, during this time vary rpm's above 3000, hit a dirt road and run around with out much load, after 8-10 min do a couple off accel and decel runs, drive back home allowing bike to cool. shut down, let bike cool completely, i kinda like the fan thing. repeat the steps(except the idle part) progressively harder for 3-4 cycles and then change my oil

[JD400exrider]

Originally posted by PHIL_B54
i posted the hotcams break-in because it is a simmilar drop in cam.

bmw have you ever read the moto-tune break in tips? im not saying they're right or not, but i am seriously interested in it

really im thinking of doing kind of a mixture of all the stuff

dont idle for first cycle, during this time vary rpm's above 3000, hit a dirt road and run around with out much load, after 8-10 min do a couple off accel and decel runs, drive back home allowing bike to cool. shut down, let bike cool completely, i kinda like the fan thing. repeat the steps(except the idle part) progressively harder for 3-4 cycles and then change my oil

Phil you should be fine doing that. Just remember keep the RPM's up without over reving and do not bog it. 3-4 heat cycles should be fine. I did change my oil after the second heat cycle and after the fourth heat cycle and again after a 45 minute ride. Maybe to much but I felt it was worth it. Make sure it is good and warmed up before taking off. I let mine cool down 45 minutes to hour between cycles.

After this mod get a FCR 39 carb. It is like doing your motor all over again. Adds a whole lot more. You will be like :D :D :D

[Houser Cannondale]

shouldnt let the motor run below 2000 rpm for the first 20 minutes
make sure everything is full of oil and start it up and make sure it is lubricating
use a large fan infront to keep it cool and just set the idle screw up so it holds the motor at a fast idle. this breaks in the cam lobes and keeps them from getting wiped. also make sure to use a non synthetic oil. honda gn4 10w40 works well. :)

[PHIL_B54]

ive got wood i cant wait

thanks for the input everyone