How to build a ramp

[QuAdRaCeR244]

I was bored so i thought i would post this

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p7185bb6852bc16573d9a6ddf5397f780/fc1199ff.jpg
Rev.1 is the ramp I will share some of the critical information on for free. This is not a beginner ramp but a Professional FMX Ramp jumped by several top level Professional FMX Riders. This is the first ramp I built and, with help from my son's, John and Robert Distler, we hit it good on our first attempt. IF this looks familuar, it should. This picture has been distributed all across the world and it excites me that most ramps being built, in the USA and abroad, are being based off of this picture. I have been getting so many emails from people all over the world thanking me for helping with their dream of building their own ramp that I knew I must get this ramp information back up ASAP. I posted this ramp first on FMX1.homepage.com back in 1999, then on HessianAggression.com until the end of 2001.

It is not easy to build a ramp. There are several things that will affect how your bike will launch from a ramp and it sickens me to see scrappy ramps used in FMX contests. So, if you are going to build a ramp yourself and are short on cash, work off of this page. This is a good ramp for a 50 to 65 foot gap. I think it was the best in the world, at it's inception, for this distance. I don't hit these things so I rely on top pro's opinions to base this off of. Not just the Hessian Aggression Riders , but several others too. Carey Hart pleaded with me to sell Rev.1 in Las Vegas when it was there for the US Open and not bring it back home but this was the only ramp we had at the time. Otherwise, it would now reside in Vegas. Yes, this ramp is that good.

This is the exact ramp used in the 2000 US Open of Supercross and jumped by Carey Hart, Manu Troux, Mike Jones, Robert Distler and Jeff Doetzer. The first rider to hit this ramp was Jeff Tilton in the spring of 2000. He was shocked at how good it worked and even stated it was the best ramp he had ever hit. Ramp technology has advanced very quickly in the past couple years and this ramp has been outdone by Rev.2 and Rev.3. Don't get me wrong, this ramp is still great and has been rented, by request, by riders and promoters several times in 2000 and 2001.

Any experienced welder or welding shop will be able to use the information here to build your first ramp. The measurements under the ramp at the top of this page are from the bottom of the Bottom Rail to the top of the Side Rail. Not that it matters, but this is including the top surface, either wood or expanded metal. Draw those measurements out on some cardboard and use it as your guide for your final ramp angle.


Click here for tools advised to have access to before starting (http://www.fmxramps.com/rev1_tools.html)


Click here for minimal materials needed for Rev.1 (http://www.fmxramps.com/rev_1_materials.html)

[QuAdRaCeR244]

This is where most ramps stop - The angle. This is created for you, the one time ramp builder so you can mold the angle 6 inches at a time. In my early days of building ramps, this is exactly what I used to create my Rev.1, Rev.2 or Rev.3 angles. I came up with this so you don't have to find a shop that can bend the metal to my exact angle. Having metal bent for 2 side rails would easily add another 200 bucks to your final ramp costs.
NOTE: This is not on a constant radius, it is an Elliptical Radius. Yes, it takes longer but it is worth it. Be sure to match this up to your cardboard drawing. The goal is to have the final angle within 1" of the specs from top to bottom.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pe481330c1cba9dd0d753c2e031fb01ac/fc1199fe.jpg
I advise you to use .120 wall tubing. [1/8"] If you are using a stick welder, you MUST use .120 wall square tubing or you will probably have holes burned through at every weld. If using a Mig welder with gas you could use .065 wall square tubing. If you don't know the difference between the the welders I just mentioned, don't go any further. You are already over your head.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p2ca401175474122afb364f411a931a47/fc1199fd.jpg
The above weld was done with a MIG welder. When done correctly a weld is stronger than the metal. This exact weld held up to a 10,000 pound monster truck that went out of control and hit my first Rev.2 ramp. I was able to use hydraulics to straighten the ramp and the lower supports and it is back in operation today. The welds held but some of the metal tore within 1/4" of the welds. That is how it is susposed to work. Be sure to test your welds when starting to be sure your speed and temperature are correct.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p8c5a78915d5137c214ee85b7f9744ff9/fc1199fc.jpg

[QuAdRaCeR244]

Bad Boy. Never use a gap like this in your joints. While this can be welded properly, it is only advisable for the very experienced welder. This is hard to fill if using the thinner .065 thick metal that my customers and I use on Rev.2 and Rev.3.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pd303b9c2c17a26361cdb6919d12213ad/fc1199f7.jpg
See, I told you so. Learn from me and live easy. A little extra time spent in preparation will save a lot of time welding and grinding
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p856435a7c71ea3bcc0b7c92ab57558b4/fc1199f6.jpg
Weld the crossmembers {they are spaced every 12"} on all sides. (the bottom and Leading End sides have not been welded on this yet) Use as little heat as needed. Notice the clean weld on the side of the spar and how I did not weld the top of the spar but the gap is closed. I suggest you weld these fully and then grind them almost flush so the sheet metal or wood will lay flat when done.The more you weld on the crossmembers the more the metal will expand and the more the angle will change. You will then need to go back and tweek the angle again.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p48b048fa74c110da798e30eef0536b14/fc1199f5.jpg

[QuAdRaCeR244]

You can use wood for the top surface but I suggest you use 16 gauge sheet metal and then cover this with 3/4" #9 Raised Edge expanded metal. Do not use the flat kind. If you use wood, you MUST put a layer of sheet metal down first. You can use only a 15 - 3/4" wide piece and weld it in place from the top to the bottom and centered. While you can use 1/2" plywood, I advise you to use at least 3/4" plywood, preferably marine plywood, and bolt it to the framework. Then, use outdoor wood primer with sillica mixed in and roll and brush this on the top surface as needed. I have also used a sprayer and sprayed the top, then thrown sillica on the wet paint. Then, I sprayed another coat of paint over this. This will work OK but I prefer to use sillica in the paint. {Sillica can be bought at hardware stores and is used most often for sand blaster equipment}

Not exactly rocket science, is it! I built my first several ramps in my back yard. Just some jigs, a lot of money in tools and a very understanding wife.

If you have any questions about building this ramp, email me at the address below. I won't answer all questions as these are found on the assembly document for Rev.2 and Rev.3 ramps.

Email: rampman@fmxramps.com


all photos and info thanks to www.FMXRamps.com

[Nausty]

if you want the imagestation pictures to work get rid of the .orig.jpg at the end of each link and it will work.

[QuAdRaCeR244]

ok thanks Nausty

[Juggalo]

yeah the rev 1 is nice but its got kind of a harsh transition that really limits your distance. thats why i opted to pay 250 bucks for the rev 3 plans.

[RoadkillerRyan]

looks like a beginner ramp to me
but its still goood