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View Full Version : rear brake dragging...loose axle?



monk
05-23-2003, 11:45 AM
I need some advice.

1.) I changed my rear brake pads on the 400ex. I thought it went OK, but I am no mechanic.
The rear brake now drags…a little more than it should (I realize the new pads should rub for a few minutes). I do NOT have a block off kit…yet. What should I do? I do not think it has to do with the parking brake handle asjustment, it is like the brake does not want to “release”, and it sticks especially when I roll backwards. While changing the brakes I did loosen the nut that started leaking oil. I did this to release pressure while putting the new pads in place. I have changed pads 1 time before with the same brand pads, and all was fine…Although the first time around I do not remember loosening virtually every
nut and bold on the caliper….please help. I am a dip***** when it comes to messing this type of thing up. It all seems very clean, too. And I keep my rear brake pedal well lubed, sprayed with wd-40 every week.

2.) The axle nut on the right side of the brake seems a bit loose. Not so that I can turn it or anything, it just kind of has a “slight” jiggle to it…is this normal? Should I turn it with a huge wrench? If yes, hich way should I turn?

If these questions are stupid, forgive me, but I need to know before I ride again. Don’t want to take a chance of breaking the machine or myself.

Thank you.

toby400ex
05-23-2003, 01:23 PM
take off the parking brake assembly and see if that helps

KY Woods Rider
05-23-2003, 03:49 PM
As for the brakes, I'd look at the most simple things first. I'm going to assume that the rear brake pedal return spring is in place, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. Also, you may have too much brake fluid, so check the brake reservoir and make sure that the fluid is not over the full mark. Your parking brake adjustment may be too tight if you didn't reset it when you changed pads, so try backing it off a few rounds and see if that helps. Also, you said that you loosened the nut that started leaking oil (brake fluid?), so you probably let air into the system and you will need to bleed the brakes to get the air out.

As for the axle nut, it probably just needs to be tightened. Mine did the same thing once and the nut was just a bit loose. I know you've probably checked it and it felt tight, but so did mine. The axle nut will have thread locker on the threads if it's never been taken off and the threads may also be corroded under the nut, so it will feel very tight even though it isn't. The axle nut (the wide, small diameter nut) and the the axle lock nut (thin, large diameter nut) have left hand threads, so be sure you turn them the correct way; if you aren't sure, you can look at the threads and see which direction will loosen and tighten. The best thing to do is back up the lock nut a few rounds (to get some of the thread locker and/or corrosion loosened up), then back up the axle nut a few rounds; turn them so they go in towards the rotor. Then retighten the axle nut and then retighten the lock nut to hold it in place (turn them so they go out towards the tire). The best thing that I've found to loosen and tighten axle nuts with is a large pipe wrench, but be sure to either use a couple pieces of leather on the jaws or wrap the nuts in several rounds of duct tape or electrical tape, because the pipe wrench will chew up the nuts if you just stick it on there by itself. The nuts will probably be very hard to turn if they've never been off before, but just look at the direction of the threads and make sure you're turning them the correct way. Although you probably won't have the proper equipment to torque the axle nuts to spec, the axle nut (wide, small diameter) torques to 65 ft lb and the axle lock nut (thin, large diameter) torques to 94 ft lb. After tightening the nuts, make sure the axle will turn with the usual amount of force and that the quad rolls freely. If the quad is difficult to roll, then the nuts are too tight.

monk
05-23-2003, 05:40 PM
To be clear:
1.) the brake "oil" as I described it in my haste, was brake fluid. it came out of the black colored nut on the rear of the caliper.

2.) For the axle nut...it should be all the way to the left-tight against the rotor section? There are definitly threads to that side of the axle nut.
Thanks for the good info. I'll try to bleed the rear brake and also make sure the parking brake did not somehow tighten.

Then move the axle nut + lock nut all the way to the left (next to the rotor)?

KY Woods Rider
05-23-2003, 06:18 PM
Originally posted by monk
For the axle nut...it should be all the way to the left-tight against the rotor section?

No, you misunderstod what I meant. The nut needs to be tightened up towards the tire side *away* from the rotor. The nut tightens up against a clip around the axle on the right side (you can't see the clip until you loosen the nut). You just need to move the nut towards the rotor a couple of turns to get some of the thread locker loosened up so the nut will move easier, then you turn the nut toward the right side (toward tire) to tighten it up.

toby400ex
05-23-2003, 06:34 PM
Even with great instructions messing with the axle nut is a mind game. You pretty much just mess with it until you find out. Happens to me everytime i mess with it, but im getting a system down now.;)

DEAL
05-24-2003, 04:39 AM
You need a p&b blockoff.
I had the same problem the first time I put pads in mine.

monk
05-25-2003, 05:16 AM
I have my parking brake cable diconnected from the rear caliper unit, and the brake still grabs. My pedal is good.
And does the block off kit just include a plate so that dirt does not get into the brake?
If this is the case, why not just take the parking brake cable off, and plug the little screw hole? Seems like if I can get my brake to stop rubbing, and remove the cable completely, I should be set for now.
Am I wrong?