Which oil is best for the 440EX and how often should it be changed?

[Steven]

440 owners... which oil are you running and how often are you changng it?

I have the Honda GN4 20W50 in now for the break in. I changed it after the first 4 hours. I was thinking of changing it every 30 hours after that. What do you guys think?

Also, what do you think of Honda's HP4M High Peformance Synthetic Blend 20W50? I was thinking of going to this after the break in. The bottle says that this oil is engineered specially for "severe duty" and "racing applications."

What do you think????

BTW, the EX's owners manual says to change the oil every 100 hours or 600 miles.... WTF?????

Steve

[RED121572]

On my Honda, I change the oil every ten hours and I use Amsoil. Amsoil is a fully synethetic.

[Steve-o 400EX]

I do mine every 15 hrs. I use honda GN4 10 W40. From what i have been told, the GN4 is great for break ins, but i heard many people go to synthetic blends after that. You dont want to run fully synthetic because i heard it does something to the clutch.

[trx440]

I've had my 440 since 98 and this has been my experience: I used GN4 [non-synthetic] for my break-in. I then used HP4 [synthetic] and smoked 2 sets of clutches. I then switched back to GN4 added a Pingry oil cooler, a Hinson clutch basket and installed 250R plates and fibers. I have not changed the clutch since then and it still operates like new. One other interesting fact; I have never had to do a top-end or have never had any of the problems that you here others refering to when talking about a 440 kit. This bike was raced for 2 seasons and since I moved out west has been to the dunes countless times.
The HP4 may not have been good for the clutch but I can't say I hurt the rest of the engine

[Steven]

Thanks for the info. How often did you change the oil in your 440?

[trx440]

After every weekend during riding season. Don't forget the airfilter. I see SO many people who NEVER check it let alone clean and oil it.

I was reading your signature and I see you are still running a stock carb? Why? You will be SHOCKED at the increase in performance it will give you. I have basically the same set-up as you except I have an FCR 39. The carb was the last thing I added and the difference in performance is comparable to a stock 400ex to a piped,filtered and jetted one. It's that much of a step up.

Oh, BTW, I have one in the garage that was gonna be for my project quad. I was gonna list it for sale today @ $325. If you are interested let me know by tonight. [I'll be gone today, gotta watch the Hoosiers and UK] -RT

[mopar 400]

I think it all depends on how often you actually start up your bike. I have run the GN4 and the HP4 oils nad have found that hte GN4 does perform a lot nicer when I only ride once to twice a month. If you are out riding all the time I think the best is a synthetic blend. Why blend? Well from what I have found is that if you let the bike sit for an extended period of time and you go to start it, the regular non sythetic oil will stick to the piston and walls better at the first crank of the motor. What I mean is when you run a fully synthetic, it is soooo slipery that it will not stick to the walls after a sitting period. So when you start it up at the very first crank there is no oil on the cylinder or walls. I still thing that the GN4 is a darn good oil, and I have never had problems with it.

[Steven]

thanks, anyone else?

BTW, how often did you change it?

[skemp]

I run Amsoil 4 stroke motorcycle oil and change it every couple weeks during the summer months. I change it more often when I ride really hard and long, and less often when I am putting around or riding for short periods of time. Heat is what really kills the oil. Amsoil is the best stuff I have found... Real good stuff. I run it in all my toys and love it.

[shamisc]

Originally posted by skemp
I run Amsoil 4 stroke motorcycle oil and change it every couple weeks during the summer months. I change it more often when I ride really hard and long, and less often when I am putting around or riding for short periods of time. Heat is what really kills the oil. Amsoil is the best stuff I have found... Real good stuff. I run it in all my toys and love it.


Just make sure you get what's listed above. I always look on the back of the bottle and it tells you whether or not it's wet clutch compatable. Most synthetics are not, that's why these guys are burning up clutches. AMSOIL IS THE BEST THING THUS FAR THAT YOU CAN PUT IN YOUR BIKE. It doesn't break down as fast as conventional oil. I change mine every 25 hours along with the new AMSOIL oil filter!! It worked wonders for my creeping, can't get in neutral, can't shift into 2nd, POS Barnett so-called clutch!!!

[Leo]

Originally posted by shamisc
AMSOIL IS THE BEST THING THUS FAR THAT YOU CAN PUT IN YOUR BIKE.

amsoil.. sigh.. the only thing more annoying than the 'avon' type marketing campaign they use is the BS they sling.

synthetic oils will destroy your clutchs.? more BS.

can't beak a motor in on synthetic oils because it's to slippery..? more BS. (I think the Viper / Vette pretty much close that issue).

When do you run into trouble? When you buy the light-weight automotive oils that are marked as "energy-conserving" on the API label. They have friction modifiers (hence the energy-conserving title) that will cause a wet clutch to go up in smoke.

A motor will last 100% as long on dino oil as it will on synthetic, assuming they oil is changed at the correct interval.

Putting synthetic in a car is a waste of money The oil will become dirty / contaminated long before it will break down. Period. The only exception is a car that's run HARD and HOT (turbo, vette, high-perf)..

The 400EX motor runs HOT and is TOUGH on oil. Regular oil breaks down very quickly. I can ride my 400 for a day and have the oil come out like water.

I won't even post what I run for oil, I hate to hear people tell me how "bad" it is for my motor and clutch.. LOL.. I will tell you that it's not any $10 / quart motorcycle specific synthetic that's for sure..

I will tell you that when I took it apart to install my hi-comp piston + cam the stock piston, camshaft, and rockers looked like NEW. the crosshatching was still visible in the cylinder from the factory hone job and the cylinder was right in specs with .000 taper (NO WEAR).. About 4 passes with the hone so the rings would seat and I was on my way.

YMMV.

Leo

[skemp]

Hey Leo, haven't seen you in a while... :D

You must really not like Amsoil... :cool: Well, the only reason that I run it in everything, and suggest it to other people, is because I do think it's the best (sorry). It isn't because of what anybody has told me though. I especially like the 2 stroke oil because it burns so damn clean and it doesn't stink. Also, I end up using so little since you can mix it real thin with gas that it ends up being cheaper than using a dino oil. I use the 4 stroke motorcycle oil because it is the ONLY oil I have tried (and I have tried just about every kind out there) that keeps my clutch from slipping. I have used another brand (can't remember the name) of motorcycle-specific oil that was by far the best dino oil I have tried, but the Amsoil is a little bit better, so I go with that, and it is cheaper than the X Brand oil I used before. Probably the only other synthetic I have ran and liked was Mobil 1, but the clutch still slipped more than I like. Oh yeah, Harley Davidson oil was real good too, but that is just plain too damn expensive!!!

The thing about synthetics are the friction modifiers which make the oil really slippery. This can tear into a clutch over time. The motorcycle-specific oils don't have this additive. A lot of people will be very happy with a regular motor oil, and not notice any clutch slipping, but I just notice things like that, and don't like knowing I am frying my clutch as I ride it.

So run what oil you like, I am not going to say you have to use a specific oil, but my opinion is that in the very least, the motorcycle oils are the best oil for the job. Later.

Leo, I'm sure you know all this anyway because you have seen just about everything, but I just added my piece of mind for the others.:cool:

[Guy400]

Originally posted by Leo
can't beak a motor in on synthetic oils because it's to slippery..? more BS. (I think the Viper / Vette pretty much close that issue).I believe the Viper, Vette and Porsche use Mobil 1 synthetic from the first time the engine is started.

My uncle ran regular Kendall 10w-30 in his LT250R from day one. He purchased the quad brand new in 1987 and 4punksdad is riding it to this day on the original bore, piston, rings and clutch. My buddy can get Amsoil for me at cost through his Harley dealership and 4 400EX oil filters for $120. I refuse to pay that much for something I'm going to dump in a bucket next month.

[QuadTrix6]

mobil 1 15w50:eek: :blah

[Steven]

Ok, so what is the general consensus?

Change every 10 hours or every 100?

And is the Honda HP4M ok?

[ChadEXer]

TC tells me "do not" run synthetic in a 400EX. He says any quality 20W-50 oil is fine. I elect to run honda HP4 20W-50 in mine.

[Extremeracer167]

Ive run Klotz 20-50 since day one. I got my quad in early 2001, and have put 2 race seasons on it. Havent touched my clutches, in fact they look REAL good. Its a fully synthetic. I change my oil after EVERY national. And if not at a national, after every 2 GOOD rides. its the only way to keep everything in tip top shape! But ive been running the new Klotz MX4 and it seems to be a GREAT oil! Ive been running it since Mid summer lastyear, and havent had any wear on anything really. My cam was still in good shape. Its specially formulated for high performance 4 stroke motors. SO i would give that a try!

[EXDUNER127]

A bunch of riders are saying u can use mobil1 15w50 full synthetic oil that you can buy at wal-mart or where ever, and that they have been using for a while and there bikes run great, it doesnt say anything about wet clutch on the back, they say u only really need to use oil for wet clutch when you are breaking in the motor.

mobil makes honda oil is what i heard, i had been using pj1 but i dunno what to use now:(

oil stories :D lmao

Run what you like and change it when it gets dirty (only cause you know that the BS filter isnt filtering anymore) or when its thinned out (looses viscosity) any sooner and your just pouring money into the recycle tank etc.

I have run gn4, hp4, mobil1 15-50 auto and even a std auto 20-50 once in a pich and had no probs with any.

[OutlawEX]

Klotz 20w-50:devil

[fire x 2000]

Bel-ray 20-50 semi-synthetic, with no problems yet!!

[dawzie]

www.amsoil.com enough said !! They make a 4 stroke motor oil that is also rated for the tranny and clutches. This stuff is GOOD. I'm running the 0w-40 in our Dale in the motor and tranny. (they are seperate in the Dale) We change our oil after every race weekend. If I was just trail riding then I guess after about five tanks of fuel or at the FIRST site of it turning brown. Which every was first.

[bmw500hp]

lol in the absence of Chad EX'r and Warriorman, (not flaming) here is a "quote" from TC on oil changes.

ATV Sport, December, 2002 / Tom Carlson (author)

"If a guy is running a petroleum based oil, which is best for not having the clutch slip, he should understand the following"

"When the oil temp reaches 260 degrees, the oil life is only about an hour and a half.

"If the oil is synthetic, it is more resistant to high temp and will not break down as soon (but) does not have the additives to protect the cam profile. Clutches do not like synthetic and will slip".

In this article TC is quoted as liking 20W-50 in his air cooled engines. No brands mentioned.

[ROGERS]

That is when I change mine. That means about every third weekend for me (the only time I ride is to race.)

-Josh

[Bill Fuller]

Honda 416,I race x crountry.Irun Honda hp-4 synthetic molly blend,I change mine after every race,or every 2 trail rides(every 2 weeks)

[300exTJjeeper]

what about mobil one 20-50?????????????