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MtnEX
01-12-2014, 02:44 PM
You guys buy the axle nut wrenches?

Looks like 56mm & 45mm is needed looking at the manual.

And crank up on the locknut threading towards the brake and do the same with the other to expose the stopper ring?

CJM
01-12-2014, 02:58 PM
You guys buy the axle nut wrenches?

Looks like 56mm & 45mm is needed looking at the manual.

And crank up on the locknut threading towards the brake and do the same with the other to expose the stopper ring?
Yep, I use them and crank it down.

MtnEX
01-12-2014, 03:05 PM
Oh, turn the other way.

Need to find and check prices...

DragonGunner
01-12-2014, 03:44 PM
Or find 2 big monkey wrenches....thats what I got and use.

MtnEX
01-12-2014, 04:00 PM
Also thought about a piece of flashing and some pipe wrenches. But that squeeze, I wonder if it would deform the nut? The flash would keep it from digging in, but the squeeze is still there.

MtnEX
01-12-2014, 04:03 PM
Two adjustables are sure cheaper and more useful than an axle wrench set if they will do the job.

2001400exrida
01-12-2014, 04:24 PM
I use the g force ones off rocky mountain.

400man
01-12-2014, 05:18 PM
2 pipe wrenches, 2 big crescent wrenches, either one will work. then I wrap the nuts with black electrical tape

CJM
01-12-2014, 07:58 PM
By crank down I mean I use a breaker bar on the g-force axle nut wrenches I have and make damn sure everything is snug and tight. I also put a few drops of red loctite in 2-3 spots. It never comes loose.

MtnEX
01-12-2014, 09:18 PM
I was referring to rather or not you pull up on the wrench or down. It's confusing as to how it does anything just standing looking at it.

I see in the manual there is a stopper ring under the sleeve on the right nut and the left one seems to be a regular one. So it appears the nuts have to go left to expose that so they may be removed entirely and who knows which way to turn what. It wouldn't have killed them to put some directional arrows on the pictures in the manual... lol...

KKiowaTJ
01-12-2014, 10:03 PM
I can never get a good bite and angle with a pipe wrench. I use channel locks and then add electrical tape. never had a problem yet. Wrenches would be nice though.

CJM
01-12-2014, 10:07 PM
For the 25 bucks the wrenches cost i feel they are worth it. All I do is heat up the nuts with a torch, wait for them to cool a bit then try loosening them one way or the other. They are reverse threaded so lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.

KKiowaTJ
01-12-2014, 11:15 PM
Mine could honestly benefit from a new axle nut and for the cost, I can get a easy up grade that also has a set screw for security. Nut I thought about cleaning them up, And making my own wrenches with a plasma and grinder/cutting wheels. That way I get it dead on what I have and give me a reason to spend in the garage.

CJM
01-12-2014, 11:20 PM
If the net is all beat up its worth replacing. I bought a stock one off ebay for 25 bucks and it had the nuts, collar and the clip. I also learned when working on it to make sure its clean so the nuts spin easily.

2001400exrida
01-13-2014, 05:39 AM
I was referring to rather or not you pull up on the wrench or down. It's confusing as to how it does anything just standing looking at it.

I see in the manual there is a stopper ring under the sleeve on the right nut and the left one seems to be a regular one. So it appears the nuts have to go left to expose that so they may be removed entirely and who knows which way to turn what. It wouldn't have killed them to put some directional arrows on the pictures in the manual... lol...

Down to loosen and up to tighten.

MtnEX
01-13-2014, 02:19 PM
Down to loosen and up to tighten.

Thank you!

Should I soak it down a while in PB Blaster or something?

Might be a bear and may have no choice but to buy tools... Hope not, but it seems a lot of other stuff on these is either a bear or messes up when you try to get it loose.

2001400exrida
01-13-2014, 02:57 PM
If you have a large enough adjustable or pipe wrench u can break it loose. The tools are handy because they fit perfect and you can put a 1/2 socket on them.

The taller and skinnier should be against the fat nut. Loosen the taller skinnier nut first and back it off a ways. Then loosen the fat nut and you will see stopper ring.

KKiowaTJ
01-13-2014, 09:50 PM
Thank you!

Should I soak it down a while in PB Blaster or something?

Might be a bear and may have no choice but to buy tools... Hope not, but it seems a lot of other stuff on these is either a bear or messes up when you try to get it loose.


Mine was all oem when I changed mine out. It had never been apart in 12 years, Until I got my hands on it lol. They are not too tight and a pipe wrench will break it loose and use channel locks for the rest.
But, As mentioned, Im just going to go buy a set myself. I own it and have and just invested more into it, In the long run I think the $25 sounds decent for ease of fit and proper tool.

MtnEX
01-15-2014, 03:42 PM
Lol in my regular travels I have checked around for adjustable wrenches. Ha! It is hard to find a pipe wrench around here that goes over 2"....

KKiowaTJ
01-15-2014, 06:29 PM
Go to lowes and get a set of 16" handle channel locks, Works perfect. Has great bite and adjusts to the size of the axle nut. Or the wrenches, Either will cost around the same IIRC. But a good set of over sized channel locks are always helpful and serve many purposes.

MtnEX
01-16-2014, 01:31 PM
Well something else is gonna be awful cause that was no problem at all. It had been cleaned with brake cleaner and been soaking in PB Blaster while I eyed tools. I walked by it today picked up a pipe wrench and gave it a quick foot kick. Broke right loose no problem. Maybe the cold or PB helped.

Out of gloves so I will try to finish later.

CJM
01-16-2014, 08:04 PM
Love me some channel locks. Before I bought the wrenches I used a pair, only issue is they kinda mar up the nut a bit if your not on it really good.

MtnEX
01-16-2014, 08:28 PM
LOL.... I have a foolish hope my swinger pivot bolt will come out that easy... hahahaha

MtnEX
01-25-2014, 12:04 AM
Well, rather than start another thread... being I got the attention of a few folks who have done their own... let me run this by you...

Anyone ever had trouble getting the outer bearing seals out of the carrier????

This seal in most carriers and front wheel bearings pops right out like nothing. But these I can't get out to save my life. It is like they are stuck to the carrier around the outer diameter of the seal or something. I can get a screwdriver between the seals and the bearing all the way around on both sides but they won't lift out!

I am kinda stumped. Do you think the carrier might have gotten hot and melted the rubber to the carrier or some crap?

CJM
01-25-2014, 06:42 AM
Probably just squished in there after all this time. Did you use a seal puller or just a screwdriver?

rooster300ex
01-25-2014, 07:21 AM
By crank down I mean I use a breaker bar on the g-force axle nut wrenches I have and make damn sure everything is snug and tight. I also put a few drops of red loctite in 2-3 spots. It never comes loose.

Same thing I do. Never has came loose on me either.!

MtnEX
01-25-2014, 01:15 PM
I got basically a screwdriver that is like a flathead bent at an angle sorta like a little screwdriver sized tire tool for dismounting. I can drive it up under the seal and then beat it with a hammer and it won't pop the seal up outta there.

KKiowaTJ
01-25-2014, 02:13 PM
Use heat and melt it out. As long as you don't go crazy and heat up the carrier too much, It wont hurt.

CJM
01-25-2014, 10:00 PM
I got basically a screwdriver that is like a flathead bent at an angle sorta like a little screwdriver sized tire tool for dismounting. I can drive it up under the seal and then beat it with a hammer and it won't pop the seal up outta there.
Id just smack them out, you destroy them who cares-the bearing kit you get should come with them. LUBE them with wheel bearing grease when you put it back together. Also rip the seals off the bearings and lube them up with grease too-they dont have nearly any from the factory.

MtnEX
01-25-2014, 10:39 PM
That's just it... I thought that was the holdup. I beat the crap out of them. They haven't budged. I even took earlier advice and baked the dang carrier at like 275 degrees a while and took it out and whaled on it.

Guess I need a bigger hammer and something more serious to stick in there to beat on. I have beat an extension to death.

CJM
01-26-2014, 07:23 AM
Dang! Mini sledgehammer and a big arse punch or screwdriver maybe?

mikey726
01-26-2014, 08:50 AM
Take the biggest flat head screwdriver you have and wedge it in there, and use a wrench to twist it. Just for clarification, I'm thinking of craftsman screwdrivers with the square shaft. You could use a pair of pliers on the handle too.

MtnEX
01-27-2014, 03:06 PM
I finally got those flipping seals out. I took my angle bent screwdriver looking tool and finally got brave enough to drive it down next to the carrier on the outer diameter. After some doing I got them out.

Now though I still can't get the bearings out... but have figured out my wierd issue... the center sleeve isn't cocking far enough for me to be able to get a good blow on the bearings. I am just waisting my time swinging. Funny part is if I shake the whole thing that sleeve rattles in there.

I got the dang thing in the oven right now... wife is loving that...

MtnEX
01-27-2014, 04:03 PM
VICTORY! :muscle:

300F for 15 minutes... no go... so I got mad and started trying to use that little bit of collar play. I beat the carrier end on a block of wood and sure enough used the collar like a slide hammer and knocked them right out. I am sure the 300F for 15 minutes and being ticked off probably was the main things... lol.

Beats all I ever seen though. They don't give you enough to get on the dang edge of the bearing to drive them out. I gotta look hard at all that and see if I got something wrong or if mine is just made that way?

CJM
01-27-2014, 04:49 PM
They are always like that, I considered buying a slide hammer with bearing pullers for next time but an entire carrier form lonestar was cheaper than the slide hammer and bearing kit lo.

2001400exrida
01-27-2014, 05:05 PM
i use a small pick screw driver on those to make sure i get between the carrier and the seal. once i'm threw i justrip the seal completely. once the seal has been torn you can usually start tearing it out at that point. it all depends on how nasty it looks when you get in there.

chronicsmoke
01-28-2014, 05:52 AM
They don't give you enough to get on the dang edge of the bearing to drive them out. I gotta look hard at all that and see if I got something wrong or if mine is just made that way?

I use a 12" punch to get them out if I can't get at it with my press. Work your way in a circle, once you move like 1/8" the center spacer tube can move a bit and you grab more of the inner race with your punch/screw driver.

The first time is always the worse.. at least putting them in is much easier haha.

Drifterboy3
01-28-2014, 07:05 PM
in the future ebay has a blind bearing puller same as you want its like 50 bucks. if you can find a complete lonestar cheaper than that please tell me where!!!

also when i reinstalled my axle nut i coated contact points in grease.tightened everything then wrapped in electric tape. i went a raceseason like tha no problems. then when i took it apart a year later peeled of the tape broke the hold and spun it by hand.

CJM
01-28-2014, 09:51 PM
in the future ebay has a blind bearing puller same as you want its like 50 bucks. if you can find a complete lonestar cheaper than that please tell me where!!!

also when i reinstalled my axle nut i coated contact points in grease.tightened everything then wrapped in electric tape. i went a raceseason like tha no problems. then when i took it apart a year later peeled of the tape broke the hold and spun it by hand.

The bearing slide hammer at rocky mtn was like 70 and the attachment for the bearings was another 30 bucks I believe or something like that. I got a cast LSR carrier for like 135 off ebay. So few bucks more yes, but way easier.