Winter build TT bike in progress

[2001400exrida]

Just wanted to start a build thread since i'm pretty much going through the entire machine.

Currently waiting on the head to come back from John over at venom performance and the carb from sredrum, went with a 42.5 bored fcr. Everything else is ready to go. Will be running the mods in my sig.

Also have a shortened stock swinger that is going to go on, i'll post pictures when i get it on the quad. G force axle is ready to be put on as well, I will update as I move foward.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131218_074827_431_zps90f6ecd9.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20131218_074827_431_zps90f6ecd9.jpg.html)
perty je 13:1 with rings on and ready to go
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131218_074753_335_zps603b53c5.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20131218_074753_335_zps603b53c5.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131218_074810_964_zpsea1be1ac.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20131218_074810_964_zpsea1be1ac.jpg.html)

[2001400exrida]

42.5 mm bored for
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131230_122813_800_zpsb73f181f.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131230_122837_077_zps69282b30.jpg

[2001400exrida]

one of my header studs snapped in the head so we had to drill it out and it got a little messy. The new stud will thread in but it's a little loose until the last couple turns when it finally tightens. I'm going to use some epoxy or jb weld when I install the stud and make it permanent. This head is currently at venom performance getting ported so once it comes back i'm gonna get that stud in there.

Anybody have recommendations on the best way to make this stud permanent? I thought about helicoil but since i really don't need the stud to ever come out again would it be better to weld it?

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131219_075109_534_zps52b923db.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20131219_075109_534_zps52b923db.jpg.html)

[jcs003]

take it to a machine shop and get it repaired correctly. even with it being epoxied in it could pull out. not worth blowing the engine apart to save a couple dollars. consider the pressures within that combustion chamber that needs converted to mechanical energy. the force needs transferred to the crank then through the tranny. you dont want any of that force being exerted on a head stud that isnt reliable. any weak link in these built 450s will cost alot of money.

john

[81dasher81]

i would buy or make a thread insert, that's probably what a machine shop would do unless you had them weld it up and re-machine it, which (speaking from experience) is a pain getting everything in its original place after being welded up. i wouldn't jb weld it though, but that's just me.

[DnB_racing]

I personally would have sent the head with the broken stud still intact to venom and spent the money at that point to have it fixed then....but seeing its too late for doing it that way,

I would have sent another head to get ported and get that one fixed as a spare,
but now that it also too late for that option,...

HOPEFULLY this was a lesson you wont forget..doing it right the first time is always cheaper

were it stands now ...
I would find a machine shop to fix it!
the exhaust manifold flange has some room for tolerance send a NEW flange and studs with head to a local machine shop and have it done right

your already invested in the head spend an extra 100 bucks for it to be right and not worry about it pulling out and going lean at WOT and blowing your piston through the head

[2001400exrida]

John wouldn't pull the broken stud for me so I had to have it done. This is 1 of 2 heads so i have one that I'm using as backup . I want to run this head during the season though. I'm thinking it needs a welded and re drilled as the best fix but womdered what you guys thought about epoxy. Sounds like it will not be permanent enough.

[2001400exrida]

13:1 JE piston installed, cylinder on.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140102_172318_462_zps137cfe98.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140102_172318_462_zps137cfe98.jpg.html)

[blacknblue#2]

13:1 JE piston installed, cylinder on.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140102_172318_462_zps137cfe98.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140102_172318_462_zps137cfe98.jpg.html)

That cylinder deck should have been cleaned pre-assembly. Now when the rest of the deck is cleaned you are going to have debris down in your cylinder. Its the little stuff that gets down on top of the rings that you cant get with a shoprag that will wreak havoc on an engine. Unless you were planning on leaving the debris of the old head gasket on the deck....which is also risky

[2001400exrida]

You can't feel that black stuff its almost burnt on there or something. I got the thicker gasket stuff off but this is just visible not really somrhing I can feel or scratch off

[jcs003]

Its staying right how it is. You can't feel that black stuff its almost burnt on there or something. I got the thicker gasket stuff off but this is just visible not really somrhing I can feel or scratch off

this means the surface has some imperfections and will need lapped flat. blacknblue#2 is 100% correct.

john

[81dasher81]

i'd say its easier to do it right while its still at this stage than to wait until it fails at the track.. do it right the first time, you'll never regret it

[2001400exrida]

I'll pop it off today and scrub with a scotch pad. thanks guys.

[alanbmx]

one of my header studs snapped in the head so we had to drill it out and it got a little messy. The new stud will thread in but it's a little loose until the last couple turns when it finally tightens. I'm going to use some epoxy or jb weld when I install the stud and make it permanent. This head is currently at venom performance getting ported so once it comes back i'm gonna get that stud in there.

Anybody have recommendations on the best way to make this stud permanent? I thought about helicoil but since i really don't need the stud to ever come out again I was thinking some sort of epoxy or jb weld would be the best option? what are your thoughts?

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20131219_075109_534_zps52b923db.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20131219_075109_534_zps52b923db.jpg.html)

nice work! This build should last at least thru the break in, Good luck! and I agree you need to clean your gasket mating surfaces, but you know that right.. Late buddy:confused:

[2001400exrida]

after talking with some guys i think my best option here is a helicoil. if that doesn't hold i'll have it welded. Talked with several guys who have had similar issues and it sounds like a helicoil should do the trick. Alan, I'll garuntee this build lasts me several seasons, i encourage you to come see for yourself :) Mistakes happen and it's unfortunate but i'm not afraid to ask opinions on the matter. I do have a 2nd head that i can always put on if this doesnt look like it will hold, but i'm confident i can get this head to work (after talking with people) Thanks for all the info so far guys i appreciate the knowledge. except you alan, in all honestly i could really do without your posts man it's just drama and hatred that i'd love to see kept over on the org. So maybe just ignore my threads if all you have to post is negative crap. thanks buddy!

[beastlywarrior]

I'll pop it off today and scrub with a scotch pad.

Lol a scotch pad, this is why I don't trust quads other people have built

[2001400exrida]

Lol a scotch pad, this is why I don't trust quads other people have built

please go on....? I'm wondering why exactly you think a scotch pad is not a good idea. This is exactly what i used http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Product/Catalog/~/Scotch-Brite-TM-Roloc-TM-Gasket-Removal-Disc-3-in-Coarse-5-packs-per-case?N=4294944948&rt=d

[alanbmx]

no you go on with this , I can't wait to see more mechanical aptitude...
prime example of why it is risky to buy anything used.. "fresh top end" "low hours"....
don't mind us proceed :cool:

[2001400exrida]

i'm not selling a used top end alan so keep your nasty comments to yourself. This brings me to a point that i think is important to bring out and since this is my thread i'll post about my thoughts.

I use facebook so much these days because you don't have guys like alanbmx poking jabs. On facebook it's a real person with a real name so if a dude like alan wanted to poke into my post about my head bolt being screwed he would get layed into and probably banned from the trx group. Not only that but his friends would see it and so would the rest of the trx450 facebook group. He might think twice before posting crap like this if he knew his friends/family/co workers would see it. It seems on the forums guys hide behind an identity so they feel they can throw jabs left and right and act macho. It's unfortunate but i honestly believe it's why sites like this are losing members, too many bullies acting tough without any sort of repercussion. I posted the stripped exhaust stud pic on FB awhile back asking what the communities thoughts were.....and within 2 hours had 50 responses with many great thoughts and input. Some of the comments were from people i know personally and some were from people who love the sport and just want to help out. Point is, you don't see guys like alanbmx being a jackass on fb because it's too close to home and everybody would be all over him like stink on poo. You can keep poking your jabs all day on the forums alan, but we all know it's not helping anything so act like the 55 year old that you are and show some respect for the sport and community. This is MY build thread, if you have nothing useful to put forth, then please do me a favor and stfu.

[CJM]

Im not trying to be rude her, but helicoiling an exhaust stud is not going to work. The AL is to soft and it wont hold, you will get maybe 1-3 rides before the stud lets go.

Do yourself a favor and take it to be professionally fixed.....

[beastlywarrior]

please go on....? I'm wondering why exactly you think a scotch pad is not a good idea. This is exactly what i used http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Product/Catalog/~/Scotch-Brite-TM-Roloc-TM-Gasket-Removal-Disc-3-in-Coarse-5-packs-per-case?N=4294944948&rt=d
That's still enough to remove material from the head surface making areas that could cause premature gasket failure. A scotch brite pad is always a bad idea on a head gasket surface

[2001400exrida]

OK thanks warrior I didn't have to lay into it but it came off real nice with the scotch pad. Its small and goes on my dremel

[alanbmx]

That's still enough to remove material from the head surface making areas that could cause premature gasket failure. A scotch brite pad is always a bad idea on a head gasket surface

You used a course grade scotchbrite pad on a grinder on it , that is a machined flat surface. right on the link it says it is for STEEL

Get the head welded you have removed too much material for a heli coil to work at this point

Sorry you don't like advice from people that do not agree with you but.....

[CJM]

You could buy the alumaweld stuff, betcha that will work well and save you money in the end. A tig job like that is about 150 bucks per hour and they usually charge an hours labor no matter what.

[2001400exrida]

You used a course grade scotchbrite pad on a grinder on it , that is a machined flat surface. right on the link it says it is for STEEL

Get the head welded you have removed too much material for a heli coil to work at this point

Sorry you don't like advice from people that do not agree with you but.....
I love good advice. The pad I used is made for aluminum and designed to remove gasket. Read it again it says it CAN be used for steel. The impregnated aluminum oxide is what makes it aluminum safe. I got it at wally world. http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix#ip/3M-Company-7712-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Gasket-Removal-Disc-07712-3-Medium/29279804 It took a whole 30 seconds with the pad on a dremel. Im going to assemble as is thanks for the concerns. I will post pics when I'm done with the help coil. There is plenty of room to get one in there still. Its only a huge hole on the outside the rest is not wollered out .

[jcs003]

well the scotch brite pad seems ok, but you need to have that surface lapped for flatness. built 450s are grenades waiting to happen. you need to do everything perfect to ensure reliability. i would listen to alanbmx. he might seem like he is being pushy but he is correct.

john

[2001400exrida]

well the scotch brite pad seems ok, but you need to have that surface lapped for flatness. built 450s are grenades waiting to happen. you need to do everything perfect to ensure reliability. i would listen to alanbmx. he might seem like he is being pushy but he is correct.

john

he is correct about what? I understand the mating surfaces need to be perfectly flat, but i assure you as light and as little as i used this head gasket remover pad, the amount of material that may have been removed is minimal, it took off the gasket quick. I'm willing to take that risk that my mating surface is fine. The head is going on this weekend so we'll find out after it fires up. Far as the heli coil goes, alan is wrong, the only place that the head stud hole is wollered out is right there on the outside, the rest of the hole is drilled smooth, so to say that I have not removed too much material from the stud hole. it's ready for a helicoil at this point. I'm going to try the helicoil, if it doesn't hold then by all means i'll be going to the aluminum welder, but I truly think the helicoil will hold.

It's not that i'm arguing with your guys's advice because i do appreciate it and maybe a green scotch pad is a bad idea.....this is why i purposely bought a pad designed for removing gasket material from an aluminum head.....cost me $25 at wally world, but i have more pads for future use now.

quick question, i've taken this machine apart before and put the head right back on without lapping the surface.....what makes this time any different? I've actually never had a head or cylinder surface lapped. on my 400's i used carb cleaner, scotch brite pads, wd40, and razor blades to remove old gasket, never had them lapped and none have had leaks. I can see the need for lapping in certain situations, but i have never done it and have never had gaskets blow out, so i'm going to take the risk on this motor and assemble the head as planned. if the gasket blows, i'll be the first to post and eat crow.

now on to some other awesome budget parts that i know some of you will love haha.

Got the cut down swinger finally. I'm going with a fresh coat of powder before it goes on the bike.... it's "1 shorter than stock so it puts me around 17.5", will be good to try it out this season and see how it goes. Prior to me, this swingarm was used by a local racer.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140103_151035_856_zps2f8c375f.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140103_151035_856_zps2f8c375f.jpg.html)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140103_151048_333_zps6d450d9d.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140103_151048_333_zps6d450d9d.jpg.html)

new dynatek programmable cdi. it's programmed at 1750 over stock rev limiter. With my new parts i'll be making power past the stock revver so this is much needed to be able to keep using peak power before it revs out.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/b674902d-aac0-41d8-b1f4-a1d3591f4953_zps7e4894c8.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/b674902d-aac0-41d8-b1f4-a1d3591f4953_zps7e4894c8.jpg.html)

tusk clutch kit, i mostly got this for the hd springs, i have new oem plates that i'm thinking i will use. the previous tusk plates lasted me 2 years, and i think i was lucky because anything i hear about these clutch plates is bad news. I'm going to keep them for backup though.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140108_061945_005_zpsa0b76514.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140108_061945_005_zpsa0b76514.jpg.html)

[jcs003]

not trying to argue either just offer advice. the devil is in the details and any engine builder will confirm this. if it works out without issues then i will be glad for you.

with a 400ex you can get away with anything. i ran my 440 for 6 years on the same piston and such because FST built it correct. it doesnt go that easy for 450s.

john

[2001400exrida]

ok thanks jcs003 point taken. I should lap the top of the cylinder according to you......I'm not going too and that's something i've now discussed with my engine builder and 2 other shops. I'm not arguing anything and i appreciate your input and concern. I am simply stating what majority is telling me that the top of the cylinder will be just fine. If it's not as i said i'll be sure to let ya know, but after calling around today and talking with my builder nobody thinks lapping the top of the cylinder will be necessary. i explained to them that i used the gasket remover by 3m and they said as long as i wasn't going crazy with it that things will be just fine.

why do you think these 450's are "grenades"? I'm not running a crazy build, see the mods in my sig. I don't anticipate this motor to be anything close to a grenade, i'm planning for longevity and reliability with this build. If built 450's are grenades in your experience then you're doing something wrong.

[jcs003]

ok thanks jcs003 point taken. I should lap the top of the cylinder according to you......I'm not going too and that's something i've now discussed with my engine builder and 2 other shops. I'm not arguing anything and i appreciate your input and concern. I am simply stating what majority is telling me that the top of the cylinder will be just fine. If it's not as i said i'll be sure to let ya know, but after calling around today and talking with my builder nobody thinks lapping the top of the cylinder will be necessary. i explained to them that i used the gasket remover by 3m and they said as long as i wasn't going crazy with it that things will be just fine.

why do you think these 450's are "grenades"? I'm not running a crazy build, see the mods in my sig. I don't anticipate this motor to be anything close to a grenade, i'm planning for longevity and reliability with this build. If built 450's are grenades in your experience then you're doing something wrong.

well i can tell you i wont have my engine done by people who say scotch brite to a cylinder is ok. it needs lapped flat following gasket removal. it is just wrong! talk to c-leigh racing about the vulnerability of 450 race engines. he is on the board of directors for TT racing and his daughter is a well known racer and his son-in-law: chuckie creech. neil will tell you 450r race engines are very vulnerable to failing this is why he promotes two stroke engines so much.

john

[2001400exrida]

same guy who did my head did chuckies head. hoping to have great running motor here!

thanks again for the input man i definitely value it, regardless of whether or not i do lap these surfaces.

[2001400exrida]

Just talked with john again. He verified scotch brite to be just fine and also specifically said there is no reason to lap the surfaces. I'm sure in some instances it needs done, but many people i've talked to have no problems building these machines without doing this. Apparently scotch pads are also very commonly used to de-glaze cylinder surface as well. One thing i have found about the particular product that i used. My buddy told me that GM banned these from the shops because the dust that they were leaving behind was wrecking bearings. I got home last night and pulled the cylinder off again and literally cleaned every nook and cranny and throughout the water jackets to be sure none of this dust was around. Fresh gasket and it will be fine. I'll let ya know how it goes. Maybe I'll start a thread to see who does lap. If its wrong not too I just wonder how many are doing it wrong.

[LxMxL97]

Im not trying to be rude her, but helicoiling an exhaust stud is not going to work. The AL is to soft and it wont hold, you will get maybe 1-3 rides before the stud lets go.

Do yourself a favor and take it to be professionally fixed.....

I know that a 450 makes more power but I broke a stud off in my 400 and I took it to a machine shop and had him helicoil inserted and it's held great for about 10 rides and 2 races

[2001400exrida]

I know that a 450 makes more power but I broke a stud off in my 400 and I took it to a machine shop and had him helicoil inserted and it's held great for about 10 rides and 2 races

a couple of the shops i've called have said they could helicoil it and it would definitely hold, but i'm still thinking i'm going to pay for the proper fix by having it welded shut and then re tapped. I'll post up when it's all said and done.

[CJM]

I know that a 450 makes more power but I broke a stud off in my 400 and I took it to a machine shop and had him helicoil inserted and it's held great for about 10 rides and 2 races

10 bucks says I could come over to your house, take a wrench to the stud and pull it right out very easily.

Ryan, whomever welded that swingarm did a piss poor job. Its going to fail. Those welds look horrid and dont look like they penetrated well as all. It looks like mig, it needs to be tigged and plated.

[81dasher81]

Ryan, whomever welded that swingarm did a @#!*% poor job. Its going to fail. Those welds look horrid and dont look like they penetrated well as all. It looks like mig, it needs to be tigged and plated.[/QUOTE]

i thought the same.. cast aluminum is a pain to weld, and there really is no way to guarantee something like that holding.. i personally would not race with it like that, thats for sure. if it were me, i'd get an aftermarket swingarm.. just my opinion

[alanbmx]

please go on....? I'm wondering why exactly you think a scotch pad is not a good idea. This is exactly what i used http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Product/Catalog/~/Scotch-Brite-TM-Roloc-TM-Gasket-Removal-Disc-3-in-Coarse-5-packs-per-case?N=4294944948&rt=d

http://youtu.be/FbDCHEzRuZo fwd to 1:50

http://youtu.be/5UYkfuTyugk

http://youtu.be/oMISjaWTfgQ

I would not trust that weld job, grinding and smoothing out an aluminum weld is another no-no

[HondaRacing83]

Why is it you can post all these picture but not any of your so called gtt setup on your 400

[2001400exrida]

10 bucks says I could come over to your house, take a wrench to the stud and pull it right out very easily.

Ryan, whomever welded that swingarm did a piss poor job. Its going to fail. Those welds look horrid and dont look like they penetrated well as all. It looks like mig, it needs to be tigged and plated.

I have no idea who did it. Its been run for several seasons of flat track and tt, no failure yet. I will say it has not been grinded or smoothed, it looks like it in the pics but you i think it's just the 2 coats of powder that make it look that way. WHen you look at it closely in person it's got the beads, they're just not perfect, lol. All i know is I've run against the guy who ran this for the past 2 years and before that his dad was running it. TT racing doesn't have alot of big jumps so it won't be pounding triples or slamming through the woods. I've always got my eyes peeled for a good name brand swingarm, however i'm not in a hurry to pay $700 for one, first i want to see how much better a shorter swingarm really is.

[alanbmx]

I have no idea who did it. Its been run for several seasons of flat track and tt, no failure yet. I will say it has not been grinded or smoothed, it looks like it in the pics but you i think it's just the 2 coats of powder that make it look that way. WHen you look at it closely in person it's got the beads, they're just not perfect, lol. All i know is I've run against the guy who ran this for the past 2 years and before that his dad was running it. TT racing doesn't have alot of big jumps so it won't be pounding triples or slamming through the woods. I've always got my eyes peeled for a good name brand swingarm, however i'm not in a hurry to pay $700 for one, first i want to see how much better a shorter swingarm really is.

http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?506818-Shortening-the-swingarm-for-TT-and-FT-purposes&p=4354648#post4354648
I cant keep up with your stories I thought you were having "your machinist" cut and weld it??? and how do you have a builder and yet you are doing all the work yourself? with excellent results I might add :ermm:

[2001400exrida]

oh big al you're something else. i don't know why i have to explain to you but let me do it so you can sleep tight tonight.

as you can see in the thread you linked i never followed up, that's because i never had my machinist cut a swingarm for me, that doesn't mean i wasn't inquiring. That may happen in the future, but not at this juncture since one of my racing buddies had this precut swingarm i just snatched it from him.

far as builder goes.....i guess when i say builder the only thing i'm referring to is the guy who built the head. That particular guy is also very knowledgable with these machines so i run nearly everything by him, he has recommended many of the mods i'm running and also helps with questions along the way.

if you can't keep up with my stories and if you are going to insult the work then don't tune in to my thread, it's that easy. I appreciate your concern, and i love good input, but you haven't offered a lick of it. I don't care if you have to put me on ignore or what ya gotta do old man, but get off my back.

[chronicsmoke]

Why is it you can post all these picture but not any of your so called gtt setup on your 400

I've still got the parts for the raffle :blah:


Jokes aside, i think that where it's cut would mess up your geometry quite a bit eh? What are you goign to do to fix that or is it not important to have ideal travel in TT?

I've been told the goal is to have the proper progression to ensure minimal wheel spin and maximize traction, where it was cut seems to move the linkage mount a full inch towards the frontwhich would through the linkage geometry way off.

[2001400exrida]

it certainly does move the shock geometry. Ideally it should have been cut behind the shock mount, that's what i was talking with the machinist about concerning my stock one that i'm looking to have cut. They were running stock shocks on this setup and with an adjustable link like most run it makes it a little easier since i can adjust the linkage as necessary. This is a learning deal for me, it's a cheap way to get a shorter rear end setup so i can at least get a feel for it. This is a budget build and the swinger did work for the guys prior to me and i witnessed it as i raced with them so i'm going to give it a shot. One day, i'll have a nice perty shiny swinger, but for now i'm going to give this a whirl and see how things go, i've got my eyes peeled for a used rath or houser or roberts one, but they're hard to come by.

[jcs003]

buy this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-trx450r-Lonestar-1-swingarm-flattrack-tt-/261368674367?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdac9783f&vxp=mtr

running that chopped and welded OEm swinger is one of the dumbest i have seen yet. thats just an accident and a life-flight away from an emergency room.

john

[alanbmx]

buy this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-trx450r-Lonestar-1-swingarm-flattrack-tt-/261368674367?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdac9783f&vxp=mtr

running that chopped and welded OEm swinger is one of the dumbest i have seen yet. thats just an accident and a life-flight away from an emergency room.

john

so is wasting money on a used hc2 with a bad bearing, 3-4 used exhaust systems, and numerous other old worn out parts trying to save a nickel or 2, but he will not listen. Why buy a used hot cam they are dirt cheap new, that swinger is sweet and cheap, has proper geometry. thought you had a good job dude, spend a little more and get something that is some worn out hack job

[2001400exrida]

Why would I buy that its an 06 and is only -1 so its basically the same as a stock 04/05

Alan I did go through lots of pipes and alll by choice I just wanted to try them all out. There was not a thing wrong with any of them but I was buying them up whenever I saw a real soon got to try several back to back. So I'm dumb for doing that OK.....and in did not waste money in the cam. Pretty much everything you say in my build thread is complete lies alan. You make claims about me and then you don't respond to the truth of the matter you tried to quote me and call me out in a different thread about having one cut and there was no issue except you thought I was making up stories? Get a grip buddy.

I got a full refund on the hc2 that had the bad bearing and if sellers are honest there is nothing wrong with buying a used cam or used parts. Alan your hard on for me is impressive but your attempts to keep bad mouthing are getting old
JCS you're entitled to your opinions too. If running that swinger is one if the dumbest things you have seen, as you stated, I feel bad cuz you don't get out much.

[alanbmx]

I would jump on that swinger....

[alanbmx]

And what gets old is arguing for the sake of arguing and being a contrarian just to get in the mix and always having to have the last word even when you are wrong, and going back to the everyone has an opinion line. Good luck with the build. you get good advice but you just wont take it

[CJM]

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rc8k_D3yYoE/Tw4IyOKMysI/AAAAAAAAAls/awgasVzJMfA/s320/Stephen-Colbert-Popcorn.gif

[2001400exrida]

Anybody got any advice on a fuel line for the fcr the stock 04/05 line is too fat for my yfz fcr. I was thinking about buying the smaller line to fit the carb and then just trying to stretch or heat the tank side so it'll go on the petcock. I've also seen adaptrrs at the auto parts stores. What do you guys think?

[81dasher81]

i'm running a crf fcr carb and i'm thinking i used a fuel line off an 06 trx450r.. dont know about the yfz's

[2001400exrida]

thanks dasher, i think i'm just ing to have to find a suitable line that is in between both sizes and then just clamp the bigger side so it's tight.

got a head back from john, beautiful work, my phone uploader isn't really working so i only have a couple pics of the ports, but i'll post combustion chamber and valves when i get the chance.

what do you guys think?

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140117_160516_005_zpsnj8dkemc.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140117_160516_005_zpsnj8dkemc.jpg.html)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140117_160506_676_zpsjqjvugbo.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140117_160506_676_zpsjqjvugbo.jpg.html)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140117_160548_004_zpswne2bpnx.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140117_160548_004_zpswne2bpnx.jpg.html)

[jcs003]

are those ports supposed to be uneven and have dissimilar shapes?

john

[DnB_racing]

4 stroke porting is more just about velocity and flow of air, and the timing is done by the cam, and the 2 need to work well together, as long as the porter was able to match the best possible air flow to your cam then it will give a few extra HP,

were in 2 stroke porting you can see much larger gains in hp numbers, with a good port, and in the 4 stoke, the gains in a port job alone will be minimal, but it all adds up
I know I was disappointed in the results from the porting I got...I was expecting more along the lines of what I came to expect when I got my 2 stroke ported,
....but I guess a 2 stroke porting is more like changing both a cam and porting in the 4 stroke,

and in my situation I already had a good cam profile then got the head done later and it didn't make a huge difference for the price
and now with my new sphynx cylinder I don't know if ill ever be happy with my 450 again..
you just cant beat the simple raw power of the old 250r with the cp line of cylinders...

so in conclusion the porting will help, but don't expect huge gains unless you change everything and spend some serious coin to do so

[2001400exrida]

porting is the best mod you can do to unlock horsepower. it's nothing to be disappointed about if you have a good builder doing it. any good racer or builder will tell you that porting is the key to unleashing the power. john did my head and the guy knows his stuff, he garuntees a 10% hp gain across the entire curve. of course you don't port a stock motor, but with the proper complimenting mods port work is the best way to get good power out of these motors. i'm sorry to hear your head did not make much of a difference dnb, get a good port shop/guy and you'll see that it definitely serves to provide more power. yes jcs this head is designed to flow at it's best potential. Gotta say for a guy who was tearing me a new one about lapping matimg surfaces u haven't seen much port work have you?, john and I got a giggle out of your claim to lapping theory. He said its not necessary unless there's damage or an issue. You bash my builder then ask a question like that about ports. Seems your ur knowledge with motor assembly doesn't go deep.

i've never seen a person claim that good porting doesn't offer big gains, it absolutely does.

[alanbmx]

did you get epoxy? 05 head right?

[blacknblue#2]

Only things i see that could have looked better is a little more tear drop to the intake guides and a little more cleaning up to the entire exhaust port but thats just naked eye stuff. If the head was ran across a flow bench and showed good gains then the naked eye stuff dont matter. DNB is right, Port work on a 4T dont have the same effect as port work on a 2T due to the 4t relies on more than just the ports whereas the ports are the performance of a 2t. A good port job on a 450R matched with the right cam can get you a 3-4HP increase which does equal out to about 10% gains to stock hp.

[jcs003]

porting is the best mod you can do to unlock horsepower. it's nothing to be disappointed about if you have a good builder doing it. any good racer or builder will tell you that porting is the key to unleashing the power. john did my head and the guy knows his stuff, he garuntees a 10% hp gain across the entire curve. of course you don't port a stock motor, but with the proper complimenting mods port work is the best way to get good power out of these motors. i'm sorry to hear your head did not make much of a difference dnb, get a good port shop/guy and you'll see that it definitely serves to provide more power. yes jcs this head is designed to flow at it's best potential. Gotta say for a guy who was tearing me a new one about lapping matimg surfaces u haven't seen much port work have you?, john and I got a giggle out of your claim to lapping theory. He said its not necessary unless there's damage or an issue. You bash my builder then ask a question like that about ports. Seems your ur knowledge with motor assembly doesn't go deep.

i've never seen a person claim that good porting doesn't offer big gains, it absolutely does.

you are clearly a fool. i was racing built 400ex bikes in 2000. mickey dunlap built a 440 for me before you probably knew about the engine. your builder must know an engines mating surface must be a clean as conceivably possible. i made the comment, "are those ports supposed to be uneven and have dissimilar shapes?" sarcastically. i hope your "builder" ported that with the assistance of a flow bench and designed the ports layouts using software. if you and your builder had a laugh about mounting a head on dirty gasket surface, some new training is necessary.

you are clearly the biggest moron this forum has come across. you regularly argue and challenge the guys trying to help you. this is why you have been banned from other forums and are the laughing stock of this forum. to be clear. i buy and sell people like you and for you to attempt to attack me personally, and complain about others attacking you is hilarious and alot of us on this forum will be having an laugh.haha

john

[jcs003]

dont forget, you wanted to JB weld or helicoil an exhaust mounting stud.lmao! i hope you werent encouraged by your builder to do that.lol. if he had any sense he would have repaired it or suggested the head be replaced or be repaired before porting. sophomoric attitude if you ask me.

john

[DnB_racing]

porting is the best mod you can do to unlock horsepower. he garuntees a 10% hp gain across the entire curve.

i've never seen a person claim that good porting doesn't offer big gains, it absolutely does. I don't consider 4 hp big gains..especially for the cost per HP...IMO poor gains compared to using a crf head on +06 and having it ported for the trx... those gains are a little better,

but I hope you like it, im just saying if you already had other mods done (cam, compression, intake and exhaust) you might not even see much gain from porting alone

I recently put a new top end on my 250..and almost doubled my HP, for about the same cost of a top notch head alone, on a 450 that would yield less then 4 hp

[DnB_racing]

any good builder will tell you that porting is the key to unleashing the power.
i've never seen a person claim that good porting doesn't offer big gains, it absolutely does.

any GOOD builder will tell you that's were you will spend the most money per hp

just curious. how much do you have into that head, with valves, seats, seals, springs, porting, not to mention the cost of the head itself, along with the stud repair...

just wondering? not bashing or anything but just curious the cost now for these as I've been away from the 450 for a while now

basically what would a whole pro caliber head sell for now?

[jcs003]

http://www.venomperformance.net/services-menu/porting

[2001400exrida]

did you get epoxy? 05 head right?

yeah this did not get epoxied. jcs there is a huge difference in the porting on a 400ex vs these honda 450's. I'm not going to argue with you jcs you can turn things around and say what you want, the fact is nobody said anything about leaving gasket material on a head. you kept pushing and pushing and pushing saying the only right way to assemble a motor is to lap the surfaces, we had a laugh at that, that's all you said it's the only way to do it, we didn't agree. You can try to defame and critisize John at venom performance but the guy has more knowledge than anybody i know. he does not flow either so go ahead and start flaming there too it's nothing new. good porting like this can yield 10% across the curve from idle all the way to rev limiter. 40hp becomes 44 and 50hp becomes 55. John has plenty of sense jcs and i find it hilarious that you continue to trash talk my headwork. he didn't repair it, he doesn't do that, he ports and does valves. I got race cut valve seats and port work from him. jcs if i'm such a moron why do you follow my build thread? i sent you a pm askin you to refrain from post so respect my wishes, you're information is less than useful. you sit there and tell me i must lap the surfaces, blah blah blah. a clean mating surface is absolutely of the utmost importance, but lapping is not needed yet you continue to go on about it.

jcs, educate yourself from one of johns awesome tech posts, then if you want to come back and disgrace this guys knowledge and port work we'll talk, but until you get a clue just stay out of this thread you're not helping anything and i don't appreciate your freshman attitude.
http://www.yfzcentral.com/forum/32-yfz-powertrain/115722-porting-theory-tools-techniques.html

edit. i take that back, john does flow, he has had flow benches in the past and actually helped design, but he doesn't use them like some of the other builders who use them to just chase high lift numbers. he doesn't discuss flow bench numbers because he considers it a waste since it's so easy for builders to fake. real world power!

[2001400exrida]

any GOOD builder will tell you that's were you will spend the most money per hp

just curious. how much do you have into that head, with valves, seats, seals, springs, porting, not to mention the cost of the head itself, along with the stud repair...

just wondering? not bashing or anything but just curious the cost now for these as I've been away from the 450 for a while now

basically what would a whole pro caliber head sell for now?

$275 for the port work and race cut seats, installation of new valves, and unshrouding CC. This a voodoo hvp head. I also purchased 2 new valves and 4 new springs, so right around $350 total for this head, guides were in great shape still. John is one of the cheapest guys around and that's not to say you sacrafice on the work being done, he's just very fair. I'm installing a helicoil myself i've decided. As i mentioned in a seperate thread John currently has a 2nd head of mine that i picked up bare for $100. That head is going to be a "backup" if i need it.

you can spend money up to your ears on headwork, so a good pro caliber head can be anywhere from $500-$1000 depending on what is getting done. That being said john does do several professional riders heads and the one he has done for me is no different, so i guess this is pro caliber at a much cheaper price.

jcs the prices on the website do not apply i encourage you to reach out to john and ask him what he charges for port work. i know you're trying to help in this thread but the venom website hasn't been updated in years and you obviously just dont' have a clue about johns work or prices, so thanks but no thanks.

[2001400exrida]

CC http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/IMG_20140118_122132_343_zpslyzigbmw.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/IMG_20140118_122132_343_zpslyzigbmw.jpg.html)

[DnB_racing]

if your saying you got +4/5 hp from your head for $350 then that's not bad... but that sounds a little too good to be true...

believe me I've owned 450's for about 8 years now and know what it takes to make a good one, and spent plenty I personally don't see gaining that much power for that cheap in these heads and having them last... but good luck maybe you got the right combination to give the results your looking for..I know it cost me more then that to get mine were it was anything special...the cost just got too much for me, and I went back to the 2 stroke and am very glad I did, sooo much more reliable power

[2001400exrida]

10% across the curve is typical with good port work. I'm hoping to be at 55hp with the mods I'm running. This build is focused on reliability no radical cams or huge compression jump. The carb, cam, porting and piston should make for s reliable yet powerful motor.

[jcs003]

your level of stupidity has hit an all time high. you are putting words into my mouth and making assumptions about me. this is why you get no respect. quit while your ahead. please for your benefit.

john

[2001400exrida]

your level of stupidity has hit an all time high. you are putting words into my mouth and making assumptions about me. this is why you get no respect. quit while your ahead. please for your benefit.

john

Please refrain from posting in my build thread. Thank you

[jcs003]

Please refrain from posting in my build thread. Thank you

i will just wait for your engine to fail then it will be worth it.:D

john

[alanbmx]

Here is what porting did for my 08, my builder's engine won the Baja 1000 this year, and Mixer was impressed with my across the board increases
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj533/Alan_Carlson/dynoafterAlbaportandpolish10-13-2012114434AM.jpg
and here is what adding an 05 HRC to the same build did, ^sheet was with 08 HRC cam
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj533/Alan_Carlson/dynosheet_zpse12c8c87.jpg
much better top end now, any loss on the bottom I do not feel
Coming from a 2 stroke I know what you mean, these 450,s do not have that rush of power when you hit where the pipe and porting hit and I do miss that rush of acceleration, but in the real world I smoke most banshee's unless they are big$$ builds and still smoke my buddies 250r that has a ported esr330 power valve cylinder with the power head and running on race gas.
I would say the power feels different. In the dunes the 4 stroke power/torque is more to my liking, the ride quality is night and day difference for me. don't get me wrong as I stated I miss the rush of that 2 stroke power, but now I never feel that dreaded feeling when all of a sudden you have lost the power band ant the wrong time and it is too late to down shift:eek2:

[DnB_racing]

In the dunes the 4 stroke power/torque is more to my liking, the ride quality is night and day difference for me. don't get me wrong as I stated I miss the rush of that 2 stroke power, but now I never feel that dreaded feeling when all of a sudden you have lost the power band ant the wrong time and it is too late to down shift:eek2:I loved my 450r and thought I was done with the 2 strokes

and what your saying is the same way I felt for 8 years, then I tried a laeger protrax cr500 with a 363 cc sphyinx...

completely changed my way of thinking...im not ready to say the 2 strokes are a thing of the past, power speed acceleration and handling all in one quad,
I don't think there is a much better combination out there, and I've tried many different quads and thought the 450 was it, but now, not so much..

RIP Calvin Pollet

[jcs003]

I loved my 450r and thought I was done with the 2 strokes

and what your saying is the same way I felt for 8 years, then I tried a laeger protrax cr500 with a 363 cc sphyinx...

completely changed my way of thinking...im not ready to say the 2 strokes are a thing of the past, power speed acceleration and handling all in one quad,
I don't think there is a much better combination out there, and I've tried many different quads and thought the 450 was it, but now, not so much..

RIP Calvin Pollet

well said dnB. plus a 250r at 330 lbs give or take. porting on a two stroke takes some real skills. jerry hall, arlen lehman, neil prichard, ken oconner and etc.

john

[2001400exrida]

2 stroke cylinder porting and 4 stroke head porting both take skill. Price wise 4 stroke porting is mre expensive and labor intensive.

[2001400exrida]

if your saying you got +4/5 hp from your head for $350 then that's not bad... but that sounds a little too good to be true...

believe me I've owned 450's for about 8 years now and know what it takes to make a good one, and spent plenty I personally don't see gaining that much power
I'm not trying to argue, but if you know what it takes why would you say 4-5 horsepower or 10% gain is too good to be true when it's been proven time after time? On a build like this a head can last just fine very reliable.

[2001400exrida]

here's some more pictures of the port work, also got the helicoil in and things are good to go for assembly.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140117_160456_991_zpsdccxyj6l.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140117_160456_991_zpsdccxyj6l.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183431_429_zps2mligkfs.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183431_429_zps2mligkfs.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183327_935_zpseap4ltaq.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183327_935_zpseap4ltaq.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183141_853_zpsqxiajgst.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140118_183141_853_zpsqxiajgst.jpg.html)

[2001400exrida]

double post.

[DnB_racing]

I'm not trying to argue, but if you know what it takes why would you say 4-5 horsepower or 10% gain is too good to be true when it's been proven time after time? On a build like this a head can last just fine very reliable.im saying getting 4/5 gain for $350 seams unrealistic...it just seams very cheap compared to what ive paid for quality work...you even said it can run upwards of $1000, those are more realistic numbers for a full race head..

if you indeed only payed $350 then good deal

[2001400exrida]

Most shops are in the $500 range for race porting. John only charged me $275 for porting. It is definitely a good deal. John over at venom performance does this on the side, he loves the tech and the sport so he does this as a passion. He has designed exhausts, venom pistons, he had a dyno at one point as well so he has done more than his share of r&d on these motors as well as the yfz motors. Most of the shops that do head work or at least several that i see on the forums do not like john because the guy spills all the beans on the subject of porting. I think it's great, but when a company has spent years on r&d to provide a service and then john just reveals the secrets of the magic port, some of the builders tend to get fussy.

Most of the money spent on a race head is not just the port work that you're paying for. Guys that spend close to $1000 are putting in bigger valves with dual rate springs and new valve guides, etc....labor starts to get high when you're doing more than porting.

[2001400exrida]

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140120_185814_161_zpshuvspnsi.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140120_185814_161_zpshuvspnsi.jpg.html)

the intake will fit snug, with the noss adapter on the fcr carb it comes close to the frame. I've been told this is standard for the fcr.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140120_185821_268_zps2trbmqxy.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140120_185821_268_zps2trbmqxy.jpg.html)

[2001400exrida]

10 bucks says I could come over to your house, take a wrench to the stud and pull it right out very easily.



i'll raise the stakes to $1000 you can't pull my helicoiled exhaust stud out. i torqued the exhaust onto it last night and that thing ain't going nowhere, so there's no way your little wrench will rip it out.

[alanbmx]

what intake are you going to run, fuel custom, stock with dasa ring,

[CJM]

i'll raise the stakes to $1000 you can't pull my helicoiled exhaust stud out. i torqued the exhaust onto it last night and that thing ain't going nowhere, so there's no way your little wrench will rip it out.

Ok, send me it. Ill video the entire thing. Cmon, Ill even give you the 1000 bucks..really.

[Balaz_73*00]

Yes
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rc8k_D3yYoE/Tw4IyOKMysI/AAAAAAAAAls/awgasVzJMfA/s320/Stephen-Colbert-Popcorn.gif

[2001400exrida]

Ok, send me it. Ill video the entire thing. Cmon, Ill even give you the 1000 bucks..really.

Well its on the motor now but how about I torque to spec with my digital torque wrench like i already have on video will that do? What were u gonna do with you're little wrench? over torque it? Its got a torque value and if I just hit it and didn't strip what's over torquing going to do? That'll strip any head if you over torque.

Yeah Alan stock intake tube with dasa adapter

[alanbmx]

stage 2 cam, 13-1, race gas, it should be a hole new machine. never rode a stage 2, I love my early HRC

[2001400exrida]

stage 2 cam, 13-1, race gas, it should be a hole new machine. never rode a stage 2, I love my early HRC

yeah i've still got my early hrc and also the 02 crf cam. I have been told the stage 2 is awesome so I'm gonna give it a shot. Waiting on the shim kit to get here. I really didn't want to buy a shim kit but i broke down and figure i'll use it several times in the future.

[CJM]

The reason a helicoil fails on these machines is the dissimilar metals and different temps when the engine gets hot the metals expand and contract at different rates. The smarter thing to do was to have it welded clean and flush and drilled a new hole. I did it on mine that pulled the stud after the helicoil failed first ride and never had an issue. Helicoils have their place, but not on spots that see alot of heat like this motor will

[2001400exrida]

i do appreciate your input, and i understand the heating up and expanding.

if this doesn't hold i'll put the other head on there, it's currently getting worked as we speak. also, there was still 3 or 4 threads left in the bottom of the hole so i installed the helicoil just right and i'm getting a bite on the original threads as well as the helicoil. The original threads may have been enough to hold i just didn't feel good about it. the stud got snug but wasn't enough to satisfy me. then i filled the area that was gaping with epoxy.

here's some examples of a helicoil being used on aluminum engine parts that get plenty hot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E

http://www.veryuseful.com/GM/tech/heliCoilInstall/

[01boneless]

VENOM POWER BABY !! :rolleyes: lol

[2001400exrida]

VENOM POWER BABY !! :rolleyes: lol

we shall soon see. You hating on old mixxers work are ya? Got the cam and timing set last night. Valves need a slight tweak on the intake side so i'm going to swap a couple shims out at the dealer (they will trade for free). Amazingly enough the exhaust valve gaps are where they need to be with the previous shims.

[2001400exrida]

by slight tweak i mean i can't even get a .002 feeler in there, lol.....a little tight.

[2001400exrida]

it's alive! fired up after about 10 kicks. i just started it enough to know it'll run and adjust the idle. i plan to get it out for a good break in tomorrow or the next day. before the break-in gods chime in you'll have to know it's negative degrees here and i'm not going outside haha

[blacknblue#2]

it's alive! fired up after about 10 kicks. i just started it enough to know it'll run and adjust the idle. i plan to get it out for a good break in tomorrow or the next day. before the break-in gods chime in you'll have to know it's negative degrees here and i'm not going outside haha

I myself would just wait or bundle up one of the 2. I would worry of the rings not setting buy not being able to put a load/back load on the engine. But thats just my opinion, your gonna do it however ya wanna do it and as far as we will ever know its going to be the right way and thats fine. Just basically playing the lottery on weather or not the rings will seat

[2001400exrida]

Yeah lord knows there's about a thousand diffferent theories and methods on breakins. I do prefer the ride it like you stole it method, so that's what i plan on doing once i get it out and run it through it's paces . The main thing is not to just let it sit there and idle, it needs to be under load when you're seating the rings. I'll follow up with how things go after i get it out and run it hard, supposed to be in the 40's tomorrow so i'm thinking that's my day. The jetting is close I know that much. I also need to get some race fuel, i'm running avgas at the moment but I plan to switch to a full race gas.

[blacknblue#2]

Yeah lord knows there's about a thousand diffferent theories and methods on breakins. I do prefer the ride it like you stole it method, so that's what i plan on doing once i get it out and run it through it's paces . The main thing is not to just let it sit there and idle, it needs to be under load when you're seating the rings. I'll follow up with how things go after i get it out and run it hard, supposed to be in the 40's tomorrow so i'm thinking that's my day. The jetting is close I know that much. I also need to get some race fuel, i'm running avgas at the moment but I plan to switch to a full race gas.

For once we agree, Wait till it hits 40 and run the living chit out of that thing lol

[2001400exrida]

ran it this morning for about an hour running like i stole it. i was able to get out on the road to get some traction with the TT tires. this thing hauls compared to my old basically stock setup. I'm ready for racing now!

[2001400exrida]

this thing is going to the dyno over at mud motosports in indiana. any predictions on hp #'s?

42.5mm fcr
13:1 je piston
venom race port, stock valves
stage 2 hotcam
dynatek cdi

[81dasher81]

depending on what intake and exhaust your running i'd say 45-50.. but honestly, its just a number

the stock timing curve will give you the best power, I've found

[2001400exrida]

stock intake with dasa ring which has been proven to be good as any of the aftermarket intakes.

also the dynatek cdi is going to give me the best power, i'll most likely still be making power at stock rev limiter. i have this programmed to 1750 over stock.

some of the other cdi's are worthless but dynatek makes a good one.

i'm hoping for at least 50+

[2001400exrida]

got a different swingarm today. it's been cut proper to maintain geometry for shock linkage. http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165842_436_zpskcl1zml2.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165842_436_zpskcl1zml2.jpg.html)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165834_251_zpsmnyn1cgi.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165834_251_zpsmnyn1cgi.jpg.html)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165810_759_zpsx0kmaqux.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140213_165810_759_zpsx0kmaqux.jpg.html)

painted the hood white with some krylon

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140212_174159_259_zpsf77qbos8.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140212_174159_259_zpsf77qbos8.jpg.html)

[2001400exrida]

Officially race ready!
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121343_403_zpsjovk1caa.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121343_403_zpsjovk1caa.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121352_475_zpsjjznhmdr.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121352_475_zpsjjznhmdr.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121404_455_zpsbtxhhqxp.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121404_455_zpsbtxhhqxp.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m93/rschaef83/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121411_359_zpsf4taqudy.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/rschaef83/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140216_121411_359_zpsf4taqudy.jpg.html)

[2001400exrida]

nice work! This build should last at least thru the break in, Good luck! and I agree you need to clean your gasket mating surfaces, but you know that right.. Late buddy:confused:

Thing runs like a top not an issue regardless of not lapping the surface and using a helicoil. Thanks for the support from the peanut gallery. I can easily understand how people would be upset knowing I have 1/4 into this motor compared ti what many spend for the same power.

[2001400exrida]

i will just wait for your engine to fail then it will be worth it.:D

john

How long are you gonna give me? I'm well past break in and have some hard time on it. How many races do you want me to get in before you can eat crow?

[fastredrider44]

Where's those dyno numbers?

[2001400exrida]

I've got to get to MXP over in Indiana. They're pretty busy right now so I haven't scheduled a session yet, but Toby is definitely who I'm going to have tune it for me. I talked with them briefly about it and he said right now is busy season but he said usually within a couple weeks of when i call they can get me in there. Shall we take guesses before I get the results?

With the -1 swingarm the thing feels like it coud rip your arms off. It gets much better bite now and will throw you on your back if you're not careful lol.

[2001400exrida]

This was posted weeks ago and had over 20 comments, so you can tell by your frameshot that you literally stored that post of mine so that you could use it at a time like this. You stored the frame shot 19 minutes after i posted it and you have been holding on to it for weeks......just amazes me how much you love to troll me. I mean you take the time to take a screen shot of an issue i'm having just so that you can post it in this thread weeks later? wow, that's borderline stalker. it's a good thing i've got you on block now, whew.

I should post it in here so people know since Ed called me out. Also, regardless of the fact that the kicker was doing that it did in fact run like a top, heck i even put in the words that you quoted that it fires up and runs fine, lol. so technically contrary to your troll attempt, the thing ran fine! Now, on to what the fix was for people who actually like to learn things and not read trolls posts.

The tiny little gold decomp spring broke, so my decomp wasn't working at all which makes things real hard to start with a kicker. Pulled head cover and noticed the flat side of it had broke, decomp lever had no return action since this was broke. Took the gold spring off my other decomp that i had and it kicks over smooth as silk now. I'm so glad you follow me so closely Ed, it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy to have such a true fan of my work.

The mistake i made was that I purchased the hotcam and cam tower and decomp all together so there was no reason to remove it. When i put this whole assembly in, i did not pay close attention to the decomp lever and spring and apparently the spring was worn out or not installed correctly. Regardless, It was an easy fix and a great learning opportunity. I also learned that you can set the decomp a hair tighter than spec and it will allow for a little easier kickstarting. And last but not least i've learned that Ed Bailey aka Baileygunns is copying and saving screenshots from every post i make, that's scary.

[2001400exrida]

Any estimates on HP numbers guys? We should get some guesses before I have it done and see who's closest. I'm gonna say 52hp.

[81dasher81]

i dont think ive ever seen that much power out of an hmf so like i said before, probly 45-50..

it all depends how well your combination of intake, porting, cam, ignition, and exhaust work together.

[alanbmx]

i dont think ive ever seen that much power out of an hmf so like i said before, probly 45-50..

it all depends how well your combination of intake, porting, cam, ignition, and exhaust work together.

agreed, tops 50 after dialed in, current state mid 40's

[alanbmx]

http://youtu.be/43-8yyCYoG0

[jcs003]

alan that is hilarious!!!

john

[blacknblue#2]

[url]http://youtu.be/43-8yyCYoG0[/ur.l]

Hahahaha I know everything there is to know about yamawonda.

[zyoung04]

http://youtu.be/43-8yyCYoG0

This is so funny I watched it twice lol. May I ask where u found out about this?

[CJM]

It was made by a forum member on the trx org forums a few years ago.

[alanbmx]

all of it is from past arguments, and it could not be more spot on :D

[jcs003]

all of it is from past arguments, and it could not be more spot on :D

i used your video on a 250r site and some guys actually knew ryan from the 450r site.lmao. they loved the video btw.

john

[Blodg]

That was frickin hilarious!

[OTMTRX]

Hahahaha I know everything there is to know about yamawonda.

Lol.. I wrote it and that still makes me laugh.. Yamawhonda's FTW!!

[alanbmx]

Lol.. I wrote it and that still makes me laugh.. Yamawhonda's FTW!!

It is genius and had to be shared

[OTMTRX]

It is genius and had to be shared

Lol... carry on Sir..

I was tempted to put it on the FB threads where he was asking about who got banned on here.. I didn't realize at the time he was one of them.. Love the way he sucks up to the mods on the FB pages.. so predictable..

Anyways.. good riddance..

Share it and laugh..

[alanbmx]

he has to be going crazy, this and facebook is all he had left. And honestly facebook is a joke unless you are looking to buy or sell parts

[Balaz_73*00]

Great vid lol

[LxMxL97]

Did he get banned?

[CJM]

Did he get banned?

Yes..and he deserved it.

[blacknblue#2]

Im curious what triggered the ban. Honestly other than being a dumb know it all that couldn't swallow the fact that he didn't know it all I never seen him do anything really wrong. All of his outbreaks were triggered by us for the most part haha. If he ever responded to the video whe. It first went viral I would like to read that :macho

[alanbmx]

posts get deleted quick around here when mods get involved. he is banned here and on the org and HQ multiple times, comes back under new screen names goes on explicit personal attacks on who he feels has wronged him, digs up personal info, and tries to get in as many personal shots in as fast as he can before he is banned again. surprised he has not done that here yet. surprised he has not been banned from face book

[LxMxL97]

Yes..and he deserved it.

Thank The Lord

[Baileygunns]

And he's banned off the Facebook group too... I guess I'll join the group again lol.

[fastredrider44]

I suspect he will be back on here before long under a different name. Just like the video said, he has so many names he can't remember them all sometimes.

[LxMxL97]

I suspect he will be back on here before long under a different name. Just like the video said, he has so many names he can't remember them all sometimes.

I'm just waiting for that one person to comment and disagree with us all about our opinions of him and we will know it's him but he will continue to deny it

[CJM]

i'm just waiting for that one person to comment and disagree with us all about our opinions of him and we will know it's him but he will continue to deny it

hahahah!

[Scro]

He's gone, and he's still got yalls attention. :ermm: