Clutch Service Limits

[wilkin250r]

I'm trying to fix up this 250r to sell it, and it's only going to be around $1200, so an extra $100 is significant. I'm not willing to put $800 into this thing just to increase the selling price by $200.

The clutch is at the end of it's adjustment at both the cable and the lever, and I'm still not getting it to engage where I want, so either the clutch is worn out (but not slipping), or the cable is worn, or the lifter rod is worn.

I'm going to start with the clutch pack, but I can't seem to find my manual. Can somebody tell me the nominal plate thickness, and the service limit thickness? Same with the fibers? I'll measure those things first, and see where I'm at.

[jcs003]

i would go with neil's clutch mod. you can use a cheap clutch plate set and a 400ex steel and that will cure what clutch issues you have. could do it all for like $40-50

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Clutch-Kit-Discs-Plates-Springs-Honda-TRX250R-1988-1989-/370677945343?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564e2093ff&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KG-Clutch-Factory-Steel-Drive-Plate-Honda-TRX400EX-Sportrax-99-08-TRX400X-2009-/300987669532?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4614435c1c&vxp=mtr

john

[aztecgwynn]

I understand what your trying to do! But if I was in your shoes stay away from neil's clutch mod for now, it is a bit more expensive than just buying a tusk clutch kit from rocky mountain atv and you will need to but a clutch cover gasket when putting back together.
Do not forget to inspect clutch rod, and see if has wear on it, I hope it doesn't knowing you want to sell bike.

[wilkin250r]

The thing is, I'm still not going to sell junk. And I think most clutch kits are junk. That's why I want to inspect my clutch, if I find out it does indeed need to be replaced, I'll replace it properly with OEM components.

But if I don't have to, I'm not going to waste money. I have no problems spending that money if it does indeed need it, but I certainly don't want to order a new clutch kit, only to find out it's my cable that is worn out. Or replace the clutch and cable just to find the lifter rod is worn, ect ect.

But since I can't find my manual, I need somebody here to tell me the specs. While we're at it, does anybody know the specs on the 400EX clutch plate? I know it's thicker, but I don't know by how much.

[Rich250RRacer]

There's no spec for the steels other than warpage. Standard fiber thickness is .0115-.121 with a service limit of .112

[wilkin250r]

Thinking more about this, it CAN'T be the clutch fibers. It has to be in the actuation somewhere.

Follow my logic here:

You pull the clutch lever, that sends action through the cable, actuation lever, rod, and eventually pushes the clutch pressure plate off the clutch fibers and steels.

If the fibers and steels where thinner, it would be EASIER to push the clutch pressure plate off, it would happen SOONER. That's not the problem I'm having, it's happening LATER. I can't get enough pull on the cable to release the clutch.

So something is wrong with the actuation. Either my rod is worn down (hopefully), or my cable is stretched (hopefully), or my clutch actuation lever in the case is bad (worst case scenario, discontinued).

Why didn't somebody point this out to me? Do I have to figure everything out?

[rk88r]

If it is the old style pushrod the ball on the end may have collapsed inward. The '89 update may be required.

[wilkin250r]

The 86 style was the lifter rod, ball bearing, and lifter.

87 and 88 the lifter was an assembly. The lifter rod clipped into the lifter, with 3 small ball bearings.

89 had the needle bearing.

Mine is the 87, and the lifter rod assembly looks good. The clutch lifter lever, however, looks like it's the problem. Part number 22810-HA2-670, and it's been discontinued.

Anybody got an extra? I was going to just grab the one from my spare engine, but that one looks to be a little worn out also.

1718105756

[wilkin250r]

Scratch that, the lifter assembly looks to be the problem.

The assembly is 5 parts total, the lifter rod, lifter, and a clip and 3 bearings. I imagine so many people were losing the bearing on the 86 that they put a warning into the manual "Do Not Disassemble." But when I put this assembly next to an 86 setup, I could see the 86 was clearly longer by about 0.050". So I disassembled.

The bearing area where the 3 ball bearings is clearly worn down, and is clearly my problem. 89 update, here I come!

[wilkin250r]

Got my 89 update in the mail today. I'm assuming this little washer goes on the pressure plate side? It would make sense, the steel washer is going to have much better wear characteristics than the aluminum pressure plate, yes?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Thats right, steel washer to the pressure plate, cause the little bearing would have a hay day up aginst that aluminum pressure plate.

One trick I've learned over the years, say the clutch was slipping bad & when pulled down found a fiber plate or two just about worn completely out, well you can take another steel plate, adding one more extra & put into the pack & your back rolling again, clutch working fine.
A clutch is all about how tight those springs & pressure plate can compact everything together.
An OEM stock set up clutch, has just enough pressure to allow some clutch slip when speed shifting, so it will be an easier transition from being free to locked down & pulling.
Neil

[wilkin250r]

Neil, your clutch mod has made it's way around the internet, everybody is talking about it.

You discovered that a 400EX steel is thicker than a 250r steel. Do you happen to recall the exact difference, or exact measurements? And aluminum washers on the springs, yeah?