Having a tough time getting my rear axle out

[OZ-T]

I have a 2002 400ex and the bearings in the carrier are shot so I started to take it apart watching a tutorial on youtube to guide me along. I am almost there, but can't get the aluminum piece that holds my brake rotor on to come off. Accidentally broke one of the ears off trying to get it loose with a hammer, bad idea I know but I wasn't thinking. Soaked it with PB Blaster as well and it still wont budge. The axle nuts and clips are all off so I can't see what else would be holding it. What should I do?

[Blodg]

I am not sure what you are referring to, the brake rotor assembly just slides off the axle after the lock nut and axle clip are removed. There is no reason to remove the rotor from its hub to remove the axle from the bearing carrier if that is what you meant.

[JOHNDOE83]

Ya I got a feeling you forgot to or didnt see the clip on there, once that clip is removed theres nothing stopping it from sliding off.

Also you dont need to remove the rotor like said above, you should be able to just take out the axle itself and replace the bearings then reinstall the axle.

Unless you bought a whole new carrier with bearings, then it would have to come out I guess :rolleyes:

[2001400exrida]

there is a snap ring that sits up against the brake rotor stay. you need snap ring plyers or some skinny needle nose to get that snap ring off, once it's off it will all slide off.

[on the rocks]

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced. if the caliper, jam nut, collar and c clip are removed and the aluminum rotor hub will still not come off, the new holding force every one is forgetting is corrosion. corrosion especially likes to happen when aluminium is against steel. as it is in this situation.

soooooo since you already broke and ear off it, the hub is junk. i would put a deep score in it with a grinder and a cut off wheel then hit a wedge/chisel in that score to crack it the rest of the way. with that added clearance from the crack the collar could be free to come off. if no do the same 180 degrees from the first and remove the hub in 2 pieces.

for future reference aluminum expands 1.5 times faster then steel so heating the hub will give you extra clearance over the axle to remove the hub. if you have no access to a grinder you can still do this now. light tapping around the hub towards the center of the axle (in relation to the diameter of the axle) can also loosen corrosion.

hope this helps!

[qlphoton]

I cant help u get the hub off ,but if u need one to replace the one u have ive got one off of a 08 ex in very good shape ill sale

[OZ-T]

I cant help u get the hub off ,but if u need one to replace the one u have ive got one off of a 08 ex in very good shape ill sale

How much? They are all interchangeable for all years I assume? Mine is a 2002.

[OZ-T]

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced. if the caliper, jam nut, collar and c clip are removed and the aluminum rotor hub will still not come off, the new holding force every one is forgetting is corrosion. corrosion especially likes to happen when aluminium is against steel. as it is in this situation.

soooooo since you already broke and ear off it, the hub is junk. i would put a deep score in it with a grinder and a cut off wheel then hit a wedge/chisel in that score to crack it the rest of the way. with that added clearance from the crack the collar could be free to come off. if no do the same 180 degrees from the first and remove the hub in 2 pieces.

for future reference aluminum expands 1.5 times faster then steel so heating the hub will give you extra clearance over the axle to remove the hub. if you have no access to a grinder you can still do this now. light tapping around the hub towards the center of the axle (in relation to the diameter of the axle) can also loosen corrosion.

hope this helps!

Thanks! Is it possible to have it welded? There's a shop here in town that does aluminum welding and was going to see if they could patch it up if I don't destroy it getting it off. I figured it was corrosion, it is legal to ride on the street here in Montana so I think it got some road chemicals in there.

[on the rocks]

just water could be enough to corrode it on to the splines of the axle.

if a shop it willing to weld it i would try it if getting another turns out to be difficult. with 3 tabs to reference the one broken one off of they should be able to get it straight. now it is cast aluminum so that could be the deciding factor. im not up to par on welding aluminum.

your welcome though.

[JOHNDOE83]

Bro for the cost of welding it you could buy a new or used one on ebay:muscle:

[Blodg]

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced.


I also have removed quite a few axles, just had the axle out of one of my quads last weekend. I have never had one stuck but you did give some good advice for those with poor maintenance or lack of routine maintenance.

[CJM]

Honestly if it didnt come off by pounding it a bit some PBlaster and a torch is where you go. Pounding it more only served to break it, dont weld it buy a new/used one.

[qlphoton]

Ill sale the brake hub for 40.00 shipped

[OZ-T]

Ill sale the brake hub for 40.00 shipped

Can you send me pics?

[2001400exrida]

i'd buy a new brake hub. when it comes to pounding those off, i usually take a piece of wood, like a 2x4 and put it up against the brake rotor hub and then pound it, that way your leverage is on the center of the hub not on one of the ears.

[qlphoton]

Whats your number and ill text u some pics

[JOHNDOE83]

i have changed a good bit of rear axle bearing and to any one who says it should just come right off there inexperienced.

hope this helps!

LOL dude im far from inexperienced.

Mine comes right off because I take care of my stuff and rebuild it WAY more often then I probaly should.

If yours doesnt come off without a hammer, your doing something wrong or dont take care of your stuff.

It slides on and off and is held on by a clip, it may need wiggling a bit but not hammering unless your "doing something wrong".

Just so you guys know, if you use antiseize or even grease these things will come right off in the future.

[on the rocks]

I also have removed quite a few axles, just had the axle out of one of my quads last weekend. I have never had one stuck but you did give some good advice for those with poor maintenance or lack of routine maintenance.

yea, you lean real fast how to work on junk when you work on your friends/other peoples 4 wheelers. That's how i learned to deal with it. i have my wheeler lubed so the axle could be out in minutes if need be.


LOL dude im far from inexperienced.

Mine comes right off because I take care of my stuff and rebuild it WAY more often then I probaly should.

If yours doesnt come off without a hammer, your doing something wrong or dont take care of your stuff.

It slides on and off and is held on by a clip, it may need wiggling a bit but not hammering unless your "doing something wrong".

Just so you guys know, if you use antiseize or even grease these things will come right off in the future.

working on your own stuff is nice because you can maintain it and know the condition of it. other people that pay to get stuff done usually don't maintain stuff very well, or if its a new to you 4 wheeler. all the rear bearings i do get a good coating of grease going back together so next time it has to come apart it will easily.

[powerbomb400]

Right beside my tools is a plastic jar of Permatex Anti-seize and grease with Moly in it. I'd say that when OZ-T puts its back together it will have a good coating of both.

[OZ-T]

Right beside my tools is a plastic jar of Permatex Anti-seize and grease with Moly in it. I'd say that when OZ-T puts its back together it will have a good coating of both.

Permatex is good stuff, I will do that!