Constant bogg

[flooringit]

Well in short kid went into creek hydro locked motor and I had to rebuild it. So what I did was new crank piston. While I was there I raised to cylinder by using both base gaskets thick and thin. Doing so changed squish quite abit. So I squish test it and went had cylinder shaved to get to .032 squish. Mission accomplished. Well now it just plain Boggs out idles fine but hit the throttle and just smokes like crazy and don't run good enough to engage clutch. I've checked to piston it's not in backwards. I changed fuel , it did idle better. I'm gonna try to rejet it down some see if its to fat now. I also while it was apart port matched the exhaust flange to flow better. Did the port timing change too much? Causing it to bogg all the time? I biught another gasket kit and cylinder to go back to stock. But I have no clues what base gasket to use in the kit. Any help would be appreciated.

[mmsoup]

You changed your port timings by shaving the cylinder. Not recommended.....Also, would have been quicker and cheaper to just go back in and change base gaskets.

Squish on a cast cylinder is fine anywhere between 28 and 32 thousandths. Every set of cases and each cylinder are slightly different so we keep a selection of gaskets on hand to match things up. Matching the exhaust wouldn't hurt anything unless you raised the window which would have added to the changes you made to timing by shaving the cylinder.

[flooringit]

How does shaving the top of cylinder change port timing? I put 2 base gaskets on. I can see that changing it that's why I did it. But putting 2 on changed the squish alot. So I had it shaved to achieve .032 squish. I could take 1 base gasket out and cut dome a little.
I seen where putting thinner gaskets on to get the squish right. But that's changing port timing down. I didnt cut the exhaust port, in the cylinder. I just made it match at the exhaust flange. I do know you can widen the port but not raise it.
I took it apart looks like the head oring is leaking. I put the new one that came in kit in. But it wasn't as big. Ill Honda bond it order a new one. Just gonna run it see if that fixes the problem.

[fomospede]

i gently stretch those bigger oring till the fit nice and assemble
port timing isnt affected by cutting top of cylinder
have you pulled the belt off and seen if it runs better?
pipe full of water
fuel vent plugged

[flooringit]

Well I had it all apart put some Honda bond on the oring to stop it leaking coolant. Did same bogg. Changed carbs did same bogg. Guess I'm gonna take out both base gaskets. Put on a new stock cylinder. Get squish to .030 with a base gasket and forget port timing. I didnt take off belt. But I took off cover and they both turn freely. I don't have the sprocket or chain on. I turned it to see if tranny was locked up. But turns fine.

[fomospede]

Well
Compression test ?
If it swallowed water rod may be bent
Crank seals ,but would b hard to start
Remove belt and c

[flooringit]

I put all new in it. New crank,piston ,seals everything. When doing this I changed the port timing. It smokes like crazy. I've changed jetting by 8 sizes in increments of 2 so it's not a carb problem. I can shut off fuel and it never clears up just before running out if fuel.

[woodsracer22]

Sounds like it is sucking antifreeze throught the head gasket.Thats way all the smoke. Apex cylinders have 4 cut relifes next to the bolt holes to aline the head. If u deck the clinder without adressing the relifes it would hold the head up enough the big oring would leck causing smoke and a bog.

[flooringit]

Hmmm makes sense. I remember seeing on the dome the spot that fits over the sleeve in the cylinder. I'm guesssing decking the cylinder cut it down and didnt keep the female section on the cylinder?

[selbygirl]

do you think you may have a coolant leak did you check your reeds . did you use a lot of oil putting the engine together .

[flooringit]

Prolly had 30 minutes of run time and piston was as clean as when I put it in. Dome looked washed.

[woodsracer22]

flooring sent u a pm

[mmsoup]

I am not trying to be disagreeable, but I completely disagree on the timing issue

You did change your port timing.

You raised the floors and the ceilings on all ports, the crank doesn't move......So you also moved bottom dead center up and prolly aren't completely opening the exhaust port

If and only If you had a high squish value WITHOUT any gaskets would you consider shaving something. Most engine builders would shave the head, some would shave the bottom of the cylinder or the cases only enough to achieve the squish value. This would keep the windows in line with the port timing map.

IF the builder wanted to selectively raise the port timings, he would raise the top of the port windows from there.

The leak you guys are referring to wouldn't happen if you shaved the top of the entire cylinder casting or even the top of the internal casting inside the water jacket because the Apex head is a two piece with the O Ring on the Head (Or Dome) and a separate gasket on the head cover. Also, head gasket leaking normally results in a nasty little kick back when kicking because it will raise compression.

Have you changed the torque spring on the pulley? That can also act like a myriad of totally unrelated issues in a CVT. I believe someone already mentioned it but I didn't see any response

[flooringit]

I knew I raised the port timing. That's why I added the extra base gasket. That's why I shaved the cylinder to get squish back to .032.
Motor was kicking back some. I did check and the outer ring on dome is hitting before the oring in dome gets a chance to seat. Piston is as clean as It was when it came out of the box. I didnt change any clutch stuff at all. I did clean it though.
Woodsracer lined me out. Super nice guy. I have changed port timing a bunch on my ski doo snowmobiles never a problem. But this little motor is a little more finicky. I'm sending motor to woodsracer to line it out. I'm just out of time

[fomospede]

wooodsracer
is very knowledgable and will not let you down
and a good guy !!