won't take throttle,if so

[dalesharley]

I purchased a 2004 Eton Viper 90 a few weeks ago for my grandson.It had been sitting for about a year and needed a good cleaning.I cleaned the carb by letting it soak in a gallon bucket of carb cleaner for 3 days and blowing all passages out with air.I replaced the stattor,cdi box,sparkplug,coil and plug wire.I pressure washed the tank,replaced the fuel lines.It will start and idles good but when giving it gass it almost starts to move and then dies.It will start right back up but give it gas and again it dies.I just replaced the carb and it does the same thing.I'm almost to the point of tearing what little hair I have left out.The closest dealer that will work on it is over 50 miles away.Anybody out there ever had this problem,if so how did you fix it?

[lon]

If it sat for a year then your jets are prob gummed up. I know you said you soaked and blew it out,but did you pull each jet out and look into them to make sure they were open.

[dalesharley]

All jets are clean and clear,I even checked the new carb before I put it on.There are only two exposed screws to adjust anything on the carb.One is for idle speed and the other is idle mixture.On the old carb the idle mixture screw was turned all the way in.So was the screw on the new carb.Backing it out doesn't seem to make any difference.I quess it's dealer time.

[chris p.]

is it getting fuel and have you installed a new filter ?? hows the air filter and have you tried it without one. also,if it sat for awhile make sure there are no mouse nests in the exhaust.also make sure the carb boot to the intake is not cracked.

[dalesharley]

With new air filter or without same problem.I've been riding and repairing motor powered 2 wheelers for over 45 years.Starting with a Sears Briggs powered mini bike up thru my last ride a Harley Davidson Ultra Classic and have never had this kind of problem.:confused:

[chris p.]

make sure the pilot jet is absolutely clear.theres 4 holes down the sides that have to be perfectly clear.mix screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out if you have one on the carb.is it a sunworld carb?? did you pull the cvt cover off and check the belt,variator and clutch?? you said it wants to move but then dies ?? put it on a stand and see if it does the same thing.if it revs but doesn't turn the tires you know it's the drive system.is there fresh fuel mixed to 36:1 ? let us know

[dalesharley]

What gets me is it does the same thing with the new ,not rebilt,carb.When I first cleaned the original carb and started the atv it ran good.It even pulled my 245 lbs pretty well across my back property.Then 2 days later it refused to start and resulted in the afore mentioned new parts before I could get a decent spark.I could hold the sparkplug in my hand and crank the atv and hardly feel a tingle.Now with the new parts it will light you up if you hold it.It acts like it's running out of gas,but when I unhook the fuel line gas runs out good.More than enough for it to stay running.It has fresh gas mixed at 32 to 1 as I removed the oil injection system.I learned many years ago that oil injection can fail at the worst times and premix doesn't.It's really got me puzzled.It's about to drive me crazy,which according to my wife is a really short drive,lol,for spending so much time on it.

[chris p.]

hmmmmmm.have you checked compression ?? a good ring will give about 150 psi.our built drr90 ran good until we hit 118 psi then started acting up.new ring and piston cured it.also have you installed a new rear torsion spring on the clutch??these things are finicky.welcome to cvt's !!!!! but seriously,check compression and go from there.let us know.

[dalesharley]

I'll have to see if I can find my compression tester.I haven't used it in years since I started driving my diesel pickup 8 years ago.My shop looks like a bomb went off but no glass was broken.lol

[chunky0071]

Pull out the spark arrester. Its a 10mm bolt on the rear of the exhaust. I have seen this problem before on these bikes and most likely that is what is going on. You ran the bike got it hot and blew all the carbon in to the screen just remove it don't bother with cleaning it you don't need it any way.

[chunky0071]

Maybe an allen bolt .

[nastynotchback1]

Back in our e-ton days i had the same problem.The exhaust was full of oil and dirt from the oil injection.Best thing for it was to remove the oil injection and put a factory apex exhaust on it.Had to remove the electric start and reclutch it.

[dalesharley]

I took the bolt out of the underside of the exhaust pipe but there doesn't seem to be any spark arrestor in the pipe.Everything seems to be welded in.Nothing seems removeable.:ermm: :confused:

[nastynotchback1]

Originally posted by dalesharley
I took the bolt out of the underside of the exhaust pipe but there doesn't seem to be any spark arrestor in the pipe.Everything seems to be welded in.Nothing seems removeable.:ermm: :confused:

Factory E-Ton exhaust is a 1 piece deal.Take it off and and blow air from the engine side into it and see what comes out of it.

[chunky0071]

Look in th end of the exhaust if there is a small bar across it remove the bolt and take a pair of plier and remove

[dalesharley]

The bolt is only about a half inch long.When I look in the exhaust I see no bar or screen.Maybe the previous owner removed it.:confused: This thing has really got me stumped and none of my other riding buddies have a

[chunky0071]

http://02e3acd.netsolstores.com/exhaust_12.aspx. this is a parts diagram remove 5-2.

[chunky0071]

I have a stock apex 90 pipe that I would sell if you want to give that a try.

[dalesharley]

How much $$$

[chunky0071]

Sent ya a pm

[mmsoup]

Have you checked the CVT?

1. If compression is good and pipe is clear, replace torque spring and clutch shoe springs. Clutch may be engaging too soon and killing the motor. Have seen that in multiple makes on more than one occasion. The reason I went here first is that you said that you had replaced carb already. And you didn't mention the sounds associated with a lean bog.



2. Are crank seals tight?

Is it a lean BWAHHHHH when you go to get on the gas?
Are there any major case leaks?
Is the intake leaking?
Does it idle steady or is the idle racing and hard to control
with the idle screw?

3. Carb
What size carb and make and what are the jets?

Hate to pay the shop on one of these, they are fairly simple but need constant attention

[dalesharley]

It acts just like it's run out of gas.It hits a spot in rpm range just slightly short of enough power to move atv and then just dies.It will sit there all day and idle just fine outside of the idle racing a little now and then.Way back when I bought a mini bike for my son.Thing looked reallly good but everytime we took it out to ride it thing would run about 10 min. and no matter what I did to it wouldn't run for rest of weekend.Work on it next week and it would run fine til we took it out again.Then same thing again.I don't want that to happen to my grandson.

[mmsoup]

I get that :) This is a book and I may be too basic so please forgive me if you already understand what I lay out

It may as simple as your jetting......

Pilot affects start and idle, airscrew can adjust the mix down there. A good starting point is one and a half turns out(Counter-clockwise) Lean will race the motor and rich will choke it down

Needle clip affects basically the middle

main handles the top but you need to set the main right first.
Just for kicks, turn the airscrew out 1 1/2 turns and then start dropping your main jet one step at a time and see if it starts to improve

You said you soaked it and blew the passages out so I assumed that you had a basic understanding of the above. If not...........

How much knowledge do you have of these little two-strokes and tuning carburetors?
Do you know the difference between the idle screw and the air screw?
What size carb? 21, 24, 26, or 28mm?
What size Pilot and what size main?
Where is the needle clip set?
Is this a premix or oil-injected unit?

If the idle is racing up then down it may be related to crank seals leaking. Do you have the knowledge and tools to pull the stator and check the seal on that side of the cases? That one is typically the first to go. We replace those every 6 hours unless we are already in there and we replace them early.

Typically on these used quads, you will have a couple of problems and you need to clean them all up.

If you have the ability, pull the motor and on the bench:

Do a compression check

Do a leak down test to find any leaks (Around the cases, the crank seals, the base of the cylinder and around the base of the intake) We have photos of a leak down tester that you can assemble for around $30 from parts you can get at Lowes, pm me for those. I posted them here somewhere over a year ago on the APEX page

Change Torque Spring
Change Clutch Springs
Check Rollers

Make sure you have a general idea of where you need to be on the strengths of the springs and weights of the rollers, before you start replacing

If you keep these stock they don't require as many hours but if you make them wild you will be inside them regularly.