sprockets?

[440monster]

ok, this is my bike.

what i would like to know is, what is the factory sprocket tooth count and what would be a good upgrade from stock?

[#484]

What year is it. What mods are done to it engine wise, and what do you want to achieve. Higher top speed or quicker acceleration?

[440monster]

its an 01 mods include
-440 big bore
-lonestar +2 a-arms
-works shocks
-big gun exhaust
-carbs jetted but it runs alittle rich
-itp-t9 beadlocks with mxr6 holeshots
-nerfs
-tag bars
-maier front and rear plastics
-ect

basically i would like a little more acceleration, its got alot of power its just doesnt have the bottom end power i need to break traction in the turns

[ish416]

Stock gearing is 15/38. It is about the best all around gearing you are going to find.

[Thumpin440ex]

Drop a tooth off the front, it will be a huge diff. Yes you will lose a little top end but the low end power is what you want in the woods and coming out of turns.



John

[NMills]

Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
Drop a tooth off the front, it will be a huge diff. Yes you will lose a little top end but the low end power is what you want in the woods and coming out of turns.



John

But if you did that... then upped one in the rear.. you get the power.. plus some top end back.. right?

[440monster]

that would essentially take it back to where it was before you made the changes wouldnt it

[Thumpin440ex]

Basically. I dropped a tooth off the front and 2 off the back.

John

[CJM]

Need a stage 2 hotcam, the motors being held back by not having one.

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by 440monster
its an 01 mods include
-440 big bore

-carbs jetted but it runs alittle rich


basically i would like a little more acceleration, its got alot of power its just doesnt have the bottom end power i need to break traction in the turns

Well if it isnt jetted properly a 440 will never run right.

What is your current jetting and why do you think its to rich?

I bet if anything its to lean for sure, based on what you describe.

[on the rocks]

sorry to but in buuut t9's are not bead locks. they simply have a strength ring.
continue.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by Thumpin440ex
Basically. I dropped a tooth off the front and 2 off the back.

John the stock ratio for 15 to 38 =1 to 2.8
by going 14 front to 36 rear you haven't changed the ratio at all its still 1 to 2.8
you still have the same exact gearing as stock only a slight bit more clearance

edit:::::: my math was wrong... stock is 2.53 to 1 and 14/36 is 2.57 to 1 a small increase in the ratio but not much to really notice

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
the stock ratio for 15 to 38 =1 to 2.8
by going 14 front to 36 rear you haven't changed the ratio at all its still 1 to 2.8
you still have the same exact gearing as stock only a slight bit more clearance

edit:::::: my math was wrong... stock is 2.53 to 1 and 14/36 is 2.57 to 1 a small increase in the ratio but not much to really notice


Even if the ratio was the exact same, the diameter of the sprokets is smaller so the actual change is alot.

[duneslider]

Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
Even if the ratio was the exact same, the diameter of the sprokets is smaller so the actual change is alot.

Can you explain how the change is a lot? If the final drive ratio is the same there shouldn't be any change.

Whether I run 13:39, 14:42, or 15:45 the ratio is all the same. Speed and acceleration would be the same. Now, many feel the 13:39 puts more stress on the shaft because the small front sprocket. I don't know if it is really enough to cause an issue on these machines.

Just curious?

[DragonGunner]

All 400EX are great bottom end to begin with, go with a 16 up front, thats my favorite, with your 440 you now have the power to pull more, I like the 38 rear but also have 36, 37 and 39...for a muddy races I always liked the 39 on the rear, tight slow an techinical go back to 15 on front. For serious OMG hillclimbs I like a 14 up front an higher gears......an put a stage 2 cam in there as well.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
Even if the ratio was the exact same, the diameter of the sprokets is smaller so the actual change is alot. yes please explain... im definitely very bad with my math, but a final drive ratio of 2.5 to 1 with different gears is still 2.5 to 1 isn't it???

in other words isn't it the same if i drop one tooth in the front, or add 2.5 in the back still same ratio still same rpm's

make it even... lets say 3 to 1
if I had 10 in front and 30 in back, its the same as 30 in front and 90 in back or 11 to 33 all the same ratio all the same rpms

the stock final gear reduction is 2.53 to 1 ....15/38
unless you change this ratio there is absolutely no change in the gearing

so if one tooth is removed from front its exactly the same as 2.5 teeth bigger in the back,

so basically thumpen440ex droped one in front and two in back would mean he only gained one half a tooth in the rear not very much of a change at all

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
yes please explain... im definitely very bad with my math, but a final drive ratio of 2.5 to 1 with different gears is still 2.5 to 1 isn't it???

in other words isn't it the same if i drop one tooth in the front, or add 2.5 in the back still same ratio still same rpm's

make it even... lets say 3 to 1
if I had 10 in front and 30 in back, its the same as 30 in front and 90 in back or 11 to 33 all the same ratio all the same rpms

the stock final gear reduction is 2.53 to 1 ....15/38
unless you change this ratio there is absolutely no change in the gearing

so if one tooth is removed from front its exactly the same as 2.5 teeth bigger in the back,

so basically thumpen440ex droped one in front and two in back would mean he only gained one half a tooth in the rear not very much of a change at all

You guys fail to realize that the ratio may be the same for the sproket combo but if the sproket sizes are smaller or larger regardless of ratio the wheel will spin at different speeds.

Heres a bad math example, a 13/39 with whatever ratio will not spin a wheel the same way a 53/89 sproket combo with the same ratio will spin the same tire.

Even more significant is the fact of motor horsepower to spin the sproket size, if you still dont see the difference in ratio to size, I dont know what to tell ya?

[CJM]

^ Exactly.

15/38 is about 70mph, 13/39 is only 60mph. Try it yourself and see.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by CJM
^ Exactly.

15/38 is about 70mph, 13/39 is only 60mph. Try it yourself and see. this example has a very big ratio 2.53 and 3... i understand a 13/39 of course would give more bottom end... this inst what im confused about.. I know if you raise the final gear ratio you increase the acceleratiom and bottom end

im trying to understand how its mathematically possible to have different speed with gears that have the same final drive ratio???

maybe im dumber then i thought but i cant see how 15/30 is any different then 14/32

[CJM]

Im not sure the math myself, but using the good old gear calc (I saved it) even the gear setups you just posted are different.

16/40 is 70mph, 15/38 is also 70 mph, but do 14/35 and you got 70mph again.

not sure how much of each gear you get with each setup however, IE are the gears shorter or long or what.

However with different engine setups things change too. IE with my 426 setup 15/38 made each gear way to short somehow. Before with 416 it was ok but I also didnt have the R carb on it then either. I now switched to 15/36 and it works well, bottom end suffered ever so slightly (could be carb or gearing not sure) but I now have better speed and length to each gear.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by CJM
Im not sure the math myself, but using the good old gear calc (I saved it) even the gear setups you just posted are different.

16/40 is 70mph, 15/38 is also 70 mph, but do 14/35 and you got 70mph again.

not sure how much of each gear you get with each setup however, IE are the gears shorter or long or what.

However with different engine setups things change too. IE with my 426 setup 15/38 made each gear way to short somehow. Before with 416 it was ok but I also didnt have the R carb on it then either. I now switched to 15/36 and it works well, bottom end suffered ever so slightly (could be carb or gearing not sure) but I now have better speed and length to each gear. lol!!! thats cause I made a mistake I meant 14/36 yes its slightly differnt ratio one is 2.53 and one is 2.57
all your examples have 2.5 to 1 gear ratio well one is real close but all real close

but lets make it simple 15/45 to 14/42 same ratio how can it be any differnt???

from what hes saying even at the exact same gear ratio like this example of 3 to 1 there would be a differnt speed i dont see how its possible

[CJM]

14/42= 58mph
15/45 = 58mph.

Those are the same, all the others are off by 10mph difference for some reason. Maybe the calcs logarithms bad?

[DnB_racing]

I just used a 3 to 1 ratio weather it be 10/30 20/60 30/90 it will still be the same

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by CJM
Im not sure the math myself, but using the good old gear calc (I saved it) even the gear setups you just posted are different.

16/40 is 70mph, 15/38 is also 70 mph, but do 14/35 and you got 70mph again.

not sure how much of each gear you get with each setup however, IE are the gears shorter or long or what.

However with different engine setups things change too. IE with my 426 setup 15/38 made each gear way to short somehow. Before with 416 it was ok but I also didnt have the R carb on it then either. I now switched to 15/36 and it works well, bottom end suffered ever so slightly (could be carb or gearing not sure) but I now have better speed and length to each gear.

I feel the same way about those sprocket combos. I like to refer to the chart below when contemplating new gearing setups. The numbers may mean nothing to you if you have never experimented with gearing, but if you have, it starts to make more sense.

My experiences running 18 inch rears:

15/38 = 2.53:1 - geared a bit too low, lots of shifting
15/36 = 2.40:1 - geared a bit too high, low end suffers
16/39 = 2.44:1 - slightly more acceleration with better top speed
16/40 = 2.50:1 - lots of low end power, close to stock 15/38 with a hair more top end.

I'm about to switch it up to 15/37 for a 2.47:1 ratio. It will be a good balance of acceleration and top speed, and will be right in the middle of all the setups I have tried above.

http://home.comcast.net/~chad502ex/atvgearratiochart.gif

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
You guys fail to realize that the ratio may be the same for the sproket combo but if the sproket sizes are smaller or larger regardless of ratio the wheel will spin at different speeds.

this is mathematically impossible

same ratio same speed.... please tell me how it could be anything different????

im still saying it doesnt matter what size the front sprocket is, if you keep the same ratio you keep the same rpms
if going from 15/38 to a 14/36 your only changing it slightly higher ratio (only .02) not adding much more bottom end but a little// but my point is the ratio does have to change for the speed to change

if anyone can explain this to be wrong PLEASE do

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by NacsMXer
I feel the same way about those sprocket combos. I like to refer to the chart below when contemplating new gearing setups. The numbers may mean nothing to you if you have never experimented with gearing, but if you have, it starts to make more sense.

My experiences running 18 inch rears:

15/38 = 2.53:1 - geared a bit too low, lots of shifting
15/36 = 2.40:1 - geared a bit too high, low end suffers
16/39 = 2.44:1 - slightly more acceleration with better top speed
16/40 = 2.50:1 - lots of low end power, close to stock 15/38 with a hair more top end.

I'm about to switch it up to 15/37 for a 2.47:1 ratio. It will be a good balance of acceleration and top speed, and will be right in the middle of all the setups I have tried above.

http://home.comcast.net/~chad502ex/atvgearratiochart.gif i agree completely and have messed with gears more then i would care to admit and understand the chart the higher the ratio the more bottom end acceleration the lower the more top end, and its directly proportional from front sprocket to to back for low end and top end

in other words you gain from one but loose from the other proportionately a direct and exact ratio just like the math shows

your examples make total sense your showing different gear ratios and it will respond to each as it should...only way to change is by changing the ratio sometimes even small amounts but there must be a change

thanks for posting this it clears it up and at least I know im not loosing my mind LOL

[duneslider]

I don't have a clue what calculator you are using to get your top speed, if it is an excel based calculator I would love to see and I be happy to figure out why you are getting incorrect numbers.

In addition, any calculator is going to be hypothetical at best. That's why there is not magic jetting calculator, there are too many unmeasurable variables that play into it. A chart can get you close but that's it.

As for this sprocket mystery. Lets try to lay it out a little clearer here.

Lets start with stock gearing 15:38 So, 38/15=2.53333 This means the final drive ratio is 2.533 to 1, which means that each time the countershaft sprocket turns 2.533 times the back sprocket (or back wheel) turns 1 time.

So, lets say we want to go faster and we switch to 16:38 gearing. This would be 38/16=2.375. So, the final drive ratio is 2.375 to 1. So, each time the counter shaft sprocket turns 2.375 times the back sprocket turns 1 time.

Lets go way up. Now our gearing is 38:38, or a final drive ratio of 1:1. This means that each time the front sprocket turns once the back turns once. We don't have enough horse power to do this though.

Now lets go down to give us lots of low end torque. 13:52 gearing. THis works out to be 52/13=4 So, our final drive ratio is 4:1. So, each time the counter shaft sprocket turns 4 times the back turns 1 time. See how this would decrease top speed? Now the front sprocket has to turn more times before the back makes a full turn.

Now, lets look at different combinations of gearing.

15:38=2.5333:1
14:36=2.5:1
13:33=2.534:1

These will all give you basically a 2.5:1 ratio or for each 2.5 turns of the counter shaft the back tire turns 1 time.

Just the same, the following will all be the same too.

13:39=3:1
14:42=3:1
15:45=3:1
16:48=3:1

All of these combinations will be 3 turns of the counter shaft sprocket will turn the back wheel 1 time. So, the top speed will be the same with all the combinations.

Now,15:38 is a pretty good stock gear ratio but once you go to a 440 it suddenly seems slower and you have to shift faster. This is because you just added significant power. It takes a certain amount of "force" to turn the wheels with stock gearing, lets say 30hp turns the wheels with stock gearing. If you increase your power "force" to 40hp it will be able to turn the wheels much easier right? This is why the stock gearing suddenly feels wrong. Your top speed will be the same though, you will just get there quicker. Since you have more power you can increase your gearing to say 16:38=2.375:1. This feels better because it more closely matches the "force" your machine can put out. This will also let you reach a higher speed but since the gearing requires more force you don't feel like you have to shift as soon as before.

Hopefully, this helps make more sense of what is going on here.

I would be happy to look at your gearing calculator/speed calculator and see if I can see where the issue is. There isn't any algorithm in there, its a pretty simple calculation.

[DnB_racing]

thanks that does clear it up...

you explained that well... much better then I would ever been able to LOL

[CJM]

Its just an old 400ex calc, its not excell based but html based afaik.

Try download it like this: choose download, not open

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B7w5W6FssFVYQjE4UWtFVTFtQmc

[JOHNDOE83]

Another way to explain why the ratio is the same but the outcome is different is to explain it like this.

The smaller sproket combo that has the same ratio as the bigger combo will spin less then the larger combo has to spin, this creates a totally different actual outcome even though it is the same ratio.

The only way to see it in action is to buy both sproket combos and try it yourself.

[DnB_racing]

thats alright Ill trust the math and physics,im good with my results
but thanks it made me think about it

and actually Ive tried many different ratios and combinations, i dont need any more sprockets lol

ive got all my quads dialed in were I want them

I guess we can just say we disagree on this one:) the numberes dont completly tell the whole story but they dont lie either

[duneslider]

I tested the calculator and as far as I can see it is giving out the correct speeds. Which were you finding that gave out speeds 10 off?

13/39
14/42
15/45
16/48

All are about 58mph.

Stock
15/38 says 68
16/40
14/36
13/33 These are all about 68

Now, these are calculations. So, I would guess real world speed could be slightly less once you factor in friction, wind, your fat butt sitting on it, etc. However, a down hill grade and wind at your back could net you slightly higher.

[duneslider]

Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
Another way to explain why the ratio is the same but the outcome is different is to explain it like this.

The smaller sproket combo that has the same ratio as the bigger combo will spin less then the larger combo has to spin, this creates a totally different actual outcome even though it is the same ratio.

The only way to see it in action is to buy both sproket combos and try it yourself.

I am not trying to be rude but that makes no sense. Math doesn't lie. The number of turns is the same for all the ratios. 3 turns to 1 turn. What you are saying is that 3+3=6 but sometimes 3+3=3. There is no way a ratio of 3:1 could have multiple outcomes.

[CJM]

Course I wonder: Are those actual speeds and is that the actual rev limit. Im positive they go faster. 70mph is about what most quads top out at (least 400-450 sports).

[duneslider]

Exactly, unless you have a tach you don't know what your RPM really is and that will affect the top speed.

I actually see a lot on the internet that the stock rev limit is 9100rpms which would put the top speed at 75. But is the 400ex capable of 9100rpm in 5th?

These calculators are just hypothetical and can give you an idea what is going on. It will show that making a certain change should net a certain result. You can see that making the back sprocket bigger will make you slower overall.

In fact, last weekend at the dunes I hit 61mph in 4th going around a big bowl.

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by duneslider
I tested the calculator and as far as I can see it is giving out the correct speeds. Which were you finding that gave out speeds 10 off?

13/39
14/42
15/45
16/48

All are about 58mph.

Stock
15/38 says 68
16/40
14/36
13/33 These are all about 68

Now, these are calculations. So, I would guess real world speed could be slightly less once you factor in friction, wind, your fat butt sitting on it, etc. However, a down hill grade and wind at your back could net you slightly higher.



Originally posted by duneslider
I am not trying to be rude but that makes no sense. Math doesn't lie. The number of turns is the same for all the ratios. 3 turns to 1 turn. What you are saying is that 3+3=6 but sometimes 3+3=3. There is no way a ratio of 3:1 could have multiple outcomes.

Well if 16/40 reads 68mph, then you guys arent factoring in all possibility's.

I am living proof of going 70mph in "4th" gear with 16/39 gearing.

Dont worry you dont sound rude, just misinformed and not understanding all the factors.

The biggest factor you guys fail to see is circumfrence in sproket sizes and distance traveled by actual tire after circumfrence is factored in.

[duneslider]

Well, 16/39 in 5th at a rev limit of 9100 (which is the true limit) would be 78mph so 70 in 4th could be likely. Also, what size tire did you have? And did they balloon at that speed? The calculator doesn't factor in ballooning. If your tire was ballooning even to 21" then that would increase your speed further. I think someone is more likely to hit the rev limiter in 4th than 5th too.

Please explain how I am misinformed, I love to learn! Which factors am I not understanding? I play an engineer all day at work but at home I am just some bum on the internet.

[JOHNDOE83]

Dude im not gonna argue with you.

Circumfrence of the sproket sizes make the chain move at different speeds and travel different lengths regardless of final ratio.

If the sprokets are 3in bigger but have the same ratio, something is going to be different.

End of story.

[duneslider]

You are ABSOLUTELY correct. With bigger sprockets of the same ratio you will need a bigger chain and the actual distance a link on the chain travels WILL BE FARTHER. However, the chain and sprockets aren't touching the ground, the tire is touching the ground and the ratio is still the same. So, even though the chain and sprockets are bigger the tire hasn't changed and is traveling the same distance no matter what the sprockets sizes are so long as the ratio stays the same. Three turns of the counter shaft turns the tire 1 time.

I guess in the end you are right and I am wrong and that settles it.

By the way your cr250 in the 400ex is pretty sweet. Reminds me of my old Honda 250r I had 15 years ago but yours is probably faster. Your pipe reminds me of the CT Whale pipe I had.

[KKiowaTJ]

Some good info in here and some thats, Well WTF?

Im running stock gearing, I start in second, If first i can dump the clutch and it will go like a foreman. I run 20" tires rear that dont "ballon" and have made many runs with a GPS, Cell GPS and a car at pace and i only go 58mph. Up hill, Down hill with or with out wind 58mph.

After reading this thread, Whats the point of changing out sprockets if most listed was 58mph tops? Then all the sudden one little switch and you get 70mph.

I can be on the top end in a few seconds, So if i change out for top end speed which i wanted to, Why would i go bigger rear? Thats pissing in the wind.

Whats the tallest gearing for a 400ex for top end speed?
I really just need a bigger counter so i dont have to buy a new chain as well lol so its a win/win for me either way. But id like to go fast and be able to keep up with traffic along with a more usable first.

No pun intended on anything said, Just curious on how to get more speed when the charts and some posts show 58mph tops as well but then a small swap and your at 70mph.

[duneslider]

Going bigger in the rear will be slower. Go check out your mountain bike. When front in small back is big you are hill climbing and slow right. When the front is big and back is small you are cruising fast right.

So, if you want to go faster put a bigger front sprocket on, or a smaller back sprocket. If you are 15/38 you can bump up to a 16/38 and gain some top end speed. Not sure if a 16 will fit on the 400ex with the case saver on. So, you may need to drop teeth in the back. Dropping to a 35 rear is about the same as going up 1 tooth in the front.

You have to remember, calculators are hypothetical. May not be exactly what happens in real life but it will show a trend. However, if you gear too high your quad won't have the power to pull it and you will be slower.

[KKiowaTJ]

Thanks, That cleared most of it up. The only thing i knew was a bigger front/small rear was for top end, But the chart had me in left field.

Guess ill just run what i got till its chain/sprocket time. I dont like riding the top end of a four stroke, I like to keep it around 5-7k rpm.

I guess what got me is, Im used to regearing jeeps and trucks and the number is numerically higher but gear is lower. Im used to seeing bigger numbers and values on a chart. Thanks again for clearing it up

[duneslider]

It is still very similar. I have 4.10's in my jeep right now but since I put the bigger tires on it it is a dog sometimes so I want to put 5.13's in. This the ratio we have been talking about. Only in jeeps/trucks it is a ratio of the pinion to ring gear. For example the dana 44 has a pinion of 11 to a ring gear of 45 for a final drive ratio of 4.09 (4.10).

But in a Dana 60 for a 4.10 it is 10 tooth pinion and 41 tooth ring. Still the same ratio but the tooth counts are different.

When you are talking jeep gear you rarely hear people mention tooth count, just final drive ratio.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by KKiowaTJ
Thanks, That cleared most of it up. The only thing i knew was a bigger front/small rear was for top end, But the chart had me in left field.

look at both of these ratios of 3 to 1 notice when you gain top speed from 3 tooth smaller in back you loose top speed from going 1 tooth smaller in front,

in this example its an even number, so you can see its directly proportional,

and it makes it very obvious that a 11/33 all the way to 18/54 is still 3to1 ratio and exact same gearing

[duneslider]

Don't get confused with that chart. If the ratio is the same you aren't going faster or slower. The faster speed or better bottom end only applies if you are moving along the x or y axis.

A 13:39 will be the same as 14:42 top speed.

Those arrows on the chart on the top and side are indicating what happens when you change one of those numbers. Those arrows aren't indicating what happens according to the ratio listed inside the sheet.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by duneslider
Don't get confused with that chart. If the ratio is the same you aren't going faster or slower. The faster speed or better bottom end only applies if you are moving along the x or y axis.

A 13:39 will be the same as 14:42 top speed.

Those arrows on the chart on the top and side are indicating what happens when you change one of those numbers. Those arrows aren't indicating what happens according to the ratio listed inside the sheet. im just trying to show the direct correlation of the 3 to 1 ratio when you gain one one you loose in the other

this chart makes it obvious of the ratio 3 to 1 just is an even number I picked to show that it doesnt matter if its 11/33 or all the way up to 18/54 they are all the exact same results,

by looking at this chart its clear the only way to change anything is to change the ratio

[duneslider]

Just wanted to make sure everyone is clear. :D

We used to do a lot of this with RC cars, trying to achieve the highest speed we could. We actually found that even within a certain ratio with the smaller sprockets the speed was slightly higher (we are talking fractions of a mph) because of the weight reduction but we tended to destroy the gears sooner because they had less surface area to mesh.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by duneslider
Just wanted to make sure everyone is clear. :D

We used to do a lot of this with RC cars, trying to achieve the highest speed we could. We actually found that even within a certain ratio with the smaller sprockets the speed was slightly higher (we are talking fractions of a mph) because of the weight reduction but we tended to destroy the gears sooner because they had less surface area to mesh. im sure that applies to quads as well, more surface area to wear for longer use

and as far as the weight.. well of course we all know lighter is faster,

If i remember correct its something like every 11 lbs you gain over recommended total weight you loose 1 HP....

so you can remove some parts of your quad, or skip breakfast the weight will be close to the same LOL

of course when we talk about tire and rim chain and sprocket weight its a different number all together, but we can leave that for another day

[KKiowaTJ]

Originally posted by duneslider
It is still very similar. I have 4.10's in my jeep right now but since I put the bigger tires on it it is a dog sometimes so I want to put 5.13's in. This the ratio we have been talking about. Only in jeeps/trucks it is a ratio of the pinion to ring gear. For example the dana 44 has a pinion of 11 to a ring gear of 45 for a final drive ratio of 4.09 (4.10).

But in a Dana 60 for a 4.10 it is 10 tooth pinion and 41 tooth ring. Still the same ratio but the tooth counts are different.

When you are talking jeep gear you rarely hear people mention tooth count, just final drive ratio.


Ok, You know where im comming from on jeeps. Your going from a 4.10 to a 5.13, Rasing your current rpm 1000 high across the board putting you back to say stock range. Are you a 42rle owner lol?

If you want a bit more crawl and slow wheel speed in lo lock, You go 5.38. If you were building a desert runner 4.88 would allow more top end. It will slow wheel speed to put more to the ground.

Thats chart is hard to read. I want a few more mph's, Its only going to change .15?. To me thats like changing out 3.55's for 3.73's. Its a .18 gain, 180 rpms. No point and a total waste of money. Thats what has me confused the most.

[RODRIGO]

Hi, i wanna drop a tooth off the front from 14 to 13, i need quicker acceleration ¿I need to change de chain?. I have trx 400 ex 08

[Stickman400]

You may be able to adjust it out with the carrier, worst case you'll have to remove a link. Put the sprocket on and see if you can get the chain adjusted right with the adjuster first.

[RODRIGO]

You may be able to adjust it out with the carrier, worst case you'll have to remove a link. Put the sprocket on and see if you can get the chain adjusted right with the adjuster first.



As I gain hp if I change the pinion 14 a13, change for yoshimura muffler, adjusted gum and change the filter for kyn