reliability of a 440 big bore kit

[mad4106]

I havent installed my 440 big bore kit yet but was wondering if i do it right with proper jetting and all that will i be able to beat the hell out of it like the stock motor i have with a few upgrades or will i have to worry about it breaking alot?

[chronicsmoke]

Take your time and have it built right, make sure it runs cool. (you MAY need extra cooling components but others have gotten away without them)

add GTT Headstuds for reliability and a 05 450r crab and she'll rip with a 440 all day long.

[CJM]

What brand was the piston you got? If its not a wiseco, JE or CP and its a namura (usually what those 440 kits supply on ebay) your going to be VERY sorry.

Keep it cool like chronic said is what ya need to do. Jetting must be good and I would invest in a larger oil tank or add another cooler to the oil cooler.

[mad4106]

I have a wiseco piston also if i just add a bigger oil cooler would that solve the cooling issue or will i need to get an additional oil cooler?! thanks guys!

[CJM]

Not really anymore larger oil coolers out there. You can fab up your own and its been done before using a car trans cooler. You could also just add a trans cooler inline to your oil cooler and mount it in the front of the frame.

I personally like the larger oil tank myself.

[mad4106]

One more question about the valve can i still keep my stock ones or do i have to get hd valve springs and i have a stage 2 cam keep that one or go with a stage 3 cam?

[CJM]

Keep the stage 2 cam. You dont need to change your valves.

I would inspect them for wear, regrind them (google it, its easy as pie) and check the valve springs. The specs for the valve springs can be found in the manual.

[400exwhipper]

How do you tell if valves and springs are bad?

[CJM]

The valves dont seal and the springs are not the proper length anymore.

[WoodTRD]

A valve spring compressor will make your life much easier when removing the valves and replacing the seals. Might as well clean the valves up and lap them in while you have em out... I used a dremel with a small brush to clean out the combustion chamber and valves, then used a valve lapping tool (looks like a small stick with a suction cup) and some valve grinding compound to lap them in, think I picked both up at oreilleys pretty cheap. Not sure exactly what the specs on the valve springs are, it's in the shop manual though. If you want to you can do a little porting on the head too while it's apart... Just read up alot on it and don't get too wild and should be good.

[mad4106]

I see a lot of people on here got lightweight kibble white valve springs do these springs really make a difference or no?

[CJM]

Originally posted by mad4106
I see a lot of people on here got lightweight kibble white valve springs do these springs really make a difference or no?

I only bought some b/c my valve springs were worn out and I found the KB ones on clearance for cheaper than the OEM springs. Does it really make a difference-I havent noticed anything different at all. Buy oem imho if its cheaper.

As for what wood is saying: Yea a valve spring compressor will make it super easy to take apart. I have a tusk one from rocky mtn and its worth the $35 bucks.

To lap the valves I simply coat the seat with valve lapping compound and then put it back in the head. Then i chuck up the end in a small drill and go to town back and forth with medium pressure. Just enough to clean everythingup. You can use the stick tool but it takes damn near forever vs a drill.

Then just brake cleen everythingup, blow it off with air and you can put it back together.