Clutch Lifter Arm Seal

[CJM]

The seal at the clutch lifer arm is leaking a bit. But it seems you cant really get to it without taking apart everything? Is there anyway to change this seal without breaking it down to the cases? Perhaps removing just the outer case?

[blacknblue#2]

What year is it on? I believe the 06+ arm will pull right out as long as you have the pushrod for throwout bearing removed....I cant remember exactly on the 04/05

[xcracer416]

if im not mistaken on my 05 all you have to do is take the pressure plate off with the rod and bearing then the arm will pull right out. its been a few months since ive done it. i will look in my manual

[eastside 400]

just take off the clutch cover-the small one, not the whole side case... then take off the pressure plate and pull the rod out a little bit, then the arm will come off

[xcracer416]

CLUTCH LIFTER ARM
REMOVAL
Remove the clutch lifter rod (page 11-5).
Remove the bolt and parking brake cable clamp
from the stay.
Remove the parking brake cable from the cable
holder.
Remove the cable clip.
Remove the sealing bolt and washer.
Retract the cam chain tensioner lifter and hold it
with a stopper tool.
Remove the two bolts, tensioner lifter and gasket.
Loosen the clutch cable lock nut and disconnect the
cable from the clutch lifter arm.
Remove the clutch lifter arm.
Remove the oil seal.

[CJM]

Cheers. I can replace this stupid seal without taking half the engine apart!

btw, shoulda specified its an 04.

[CJM]

Got the seal today. Probably gonna tackle this when I get some free time.

Going to upgrade the clutch while im in there too. Heard you can use an OEM CRF450 clutch with no issues, and its stronger?

[Baileygunns]

Not any stronger, it just gets rid of the judder spring and seat. More positive clutch engagement... I've never ran the judder spring to be honest so I couldn't tell you what the difference feels like.

Plenty of threads on org about the judder mod if you want to read up on it...

[CJM]

Thanks much Bailey. Ill go read up at the org about it.

Interesting concept, Im gonna def do it. The previous owner gave me a tusk HD setup, not sure if I will have enough discs to do the mod with it tho-IF I use it. I personally like OEM the best. Never let me down on the EX.

btw, found this nice write up on how to do the mod-with pics. Judder spring mod (http://www.rockinhorseweb.com/Clutch_mod.htm)

[eastside 400]

all you need is one normal friction plate to replace the small one that comes in it. takes the spring and washer out in the back of the pack along with the small friction. replace with a full friction. doesnt really make a difference...if you get a new clutch just order the OEM 07 CRF450 clutch kit, comes with friction, steel, springs, and seal in one kit

[Balaz_73*00]

Toby at MXP told me he always does the judder mod without replacing the bottom fiber. Just leave the one with the slightly larger inside diameter in and go.

[CJM]

Either way its gonna get done sooner or later. If you engage the clutch from neutral it kinda POPS into gear. to me it seems like the baskets probably done too.

Ill probably use the tusk HD springs and a CRF clutch. Not really a fan of the tusk clutch setups.

[ds268]

Just wanted to throw out there that the Tusk CRF clutch pack works great. For 55 bucks, it comes with stiffer springs too. I've been hammering on mine for a full season without any issues or even fade although it's in conjunction with a DD lockout.

[CJM]

Yea Im kinda wary of them. I read the reviews on RMATV and some say they are great, others say they suck. FWIW Im gonna count the plates and see if it has enough to remove the judder spring. If the baskets done for Ill run the tusk clutch, hinson baskets aint cheap!

[Baileygunns]

You will have enough plates... There is the same number of plates with or without the judder spring and seat. The spring/seat fits in the inner diameter of the last fiber. You'll understand as soon as you see it. The fiber is thinner ID to OD not thickness wise.

I ran the tusk in my 04 with the hd springs and the only thing I would change is the springs.. I end up adjusting the cable at the perch a lot if in tight woods or on the track and working the clutch hard... I would have to tighten the cable as it heated up. Didn't happen all the time but enough. GHott has some good info on springs.

The moose baskets are made by Hinson... Just like the moose pistons are made by CP. They tend to be cheaper cuz they have moose on them but they are the same exact part.

[CJM]

Thanks for the info about the springs and the moose basket. Will give them both a look.

Im willing to bet the basket is notched b/c it kinda pops into gear from neutral.

[Ex_Rider43]

Stay away from the Tusk , I needed parts from Rocky mountain so I decided to buy 2 clutches just to try , and both were done after a 3 or 4 hours of mx , in my stock motored practice bike. The oil was black and it smelled like **** when I opened the case.

Switched to Wiseco clutches and they are as good as OEM , and pretty cheap too. Cant forget about their baskets hubs and pressure plates too , good stuff.

[jkiserracing]

Originally posted by xcracer416
CLUTCH LIFTER ARM
REMOVAL
Remove the clutch lifter rod (page 11-5).

Retract the cam chain tensioner lifter and hold it
with a stopper tool.
Remove the two bolts, tensioner lifter and gasket.


Why would you need to remove the cam chain tensioner to do this? Im about to doo the same thing to mine and was unaware that you had to involve that part? Mine is an 08 though.....not sure if the 04/05 tensioner was simply in the way or what.

[xcracer416]

for clearance issues. the shaft will not clear the tensioner to come all the way out to be removed.

[jkiserracing]

Oh okay. The 06 and up have a smaller 1 so that clearance wasn't an issue for me. How was going to replace the needle bearings in there but quickly realize those were hard to get out so I just left them. I'm sure they were fine anyway just the sale was bad for
me.