Whats all needed for 450r carb

[qlphoton]

Ive already contacted ZR,and got an adapter coming.Ive also orderd a throttle cable,a rebuild kit for after i clean it.Is there anything else i need besides jets?Im thinking of buying a jet kit from Jets r us.And also what pilot jet size would be recomended for location Illinois at 450' elevation.Thank u in advance .Also it is a 04-05 carb

[JOHNDOE83]

You dont need that adapter, a $4 rubber grommet from lowes or homedepot works just fine.

The adapter looks cool tho.

You could use a hotstart, but it isnt nessescary.

Jetsrus is the best place to buy jetts, dpending on your mods depends on what jetts to buy.

Also get a 450r throttle cable.

[slightlybent47]

Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
You dont need that adapter, a $4 rubber grommet from lowes or homedepot works just fine.


x2

[Stickman400]

Well he already said he had it coming so telling him he doesn't need it really doesn't help. OP the only thing I see missing is a 450R fuel line from the tank. The 400s will leak if you try to put it on the 450 carb. unless you zip tie the end of it. You also need the 450 throttle cable which I'm assuming is the one you got. And I used to run a 52 pilot like everyone recommends but I always had to pump the hell out of it on start up even when it was 75+ degrees in the shop it was in. I put in a 55 and pump it twice and it fires right up.

[slightlybent47]

Originally posted by Stickman400
Well he already said he had it coming so telling him he doesn't need it really doesn't help. OP the only thing I see missing is a 450R fuel line from the tank. The 400s will leak if you try to put it on the 450 carb. unless you zip tie the end of it. You also need the 450 throttle cable which I'm assuming is the one you got. And I used to run a 52 pilot like everyone recommends but I always had to pump the hell out of it on start up even when it was 75+ degrees in the shop it was in. I put in a 55 and pump it twice and it fires right up.

Well then I guess I won’t tell you how to use the stock ex fuel line.
Yes he has the adaptor ordered already but these threads are not only for the op but for all who read and want to do the conversion.

[TheAwesomehonda]

The 400ex fuel line can be used.... It just has to be stretched to fit on the 450r carb.

[zrpilot]

How do you clamp two pieces of rubber together and keep an air tight seal?


Originally posted by JOHNDOE83
You dont need that adapter, a $4 rubber grommet from lowes or homedepot works just fine.

The adapter looks cool tho.

You could use a hotstart, but it isnt nessescary.

Jetsrus is the best place to buy jetts, dpending on your mods depends on what jetts to buy.

Also get a 450r throttle cable.

[qlphoton]

I was kinda wondering that myself? Thanks agin ZR

[Stickman400]

Or you can just buy a $2 450 line and it fits perfectly.

[qlphoton]

Is that the fuel line?^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Ive got one coming.

[slightlybent47]

This may help.

http://i45.tinypic.com/rldsn5.jpg

[zrpilot]

So what prevents the two rubber hoses from being collapsed from the clamp?


Originally posted by slightlybent47
This may help.

http://i45.tinypic.com/rldsn5.jpg

[CJM]

Maybe a piece of pvc?

[slightlybent47]

The intake boot is plenty stiff enough to hold it.
Just slip it over the boot and cut it off to length (about 1” longer then the stock boot) and install. Simple clean and cheap.
You can (but not nessery) put a little RTV on it.
I've been runnin it like this for years.

[slightlybent47]

All you need to do is extend the boot about an inch.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=23473-34146-RC50&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1065521&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

[slightlybent47]

I think I used this one. And i ditched the metal cover.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=23461-34146-RNH40&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1065475&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

[zrpilot]

I appreciate the response. I am Sure you are confident that it is a good solution, but I couldnt be as confident. I KNOW that a rubber air horn clamped on an aluminum cylinder is the best way to do it. After all that is what Honda does and they make pretty reliable products!


Originally posted by slightlybent47
The intake boot is plenty stiff enough to hold it.
Just slip it over the boot and cut it off to length (about 1” longer then the stock boot) and install. Simple clean and cheap.
You can (buy not nessery) put a little RTV on it.
I've been runnin it like this for years.

[slightlybent47]

The proof is that it’s been like that for years and I’ve had zero issues.

[zrpilot]

Good, just not the best way and not the way I'll recommend people here on the forum do this mod. These quads are expensive, and I would think we'd all want the best, reasonably priced way ?

How do you know that there isn't microscopic leaks that let unfiltered air into the motor?


Originally posted by slightlybent47
The proof is that it’s been like that for years and I’ve had zero issues.

[AtvKid4Eva]

^^ i agree. It may seem air tight, but it probably isn't 100%. The only two ways i've done this mod it to us ZR's adapter or make your own. Or if your low on cash just heat the OEM boot up and stretch it over the larger 450r carb. If done correctly it will fit nice and snug like it was meant to.

[zrpilot]

Good points. I'd rather stretch the existing airhorn over the carb and move the airbox forward then to hose clamp two pieces of rubber together.

Originally posted by AtvKid4Eva
^^ i agree. It may seem air tight, but it probably isn't 100%. The only two ways i've done this mod it to us ZR's adapter or make your own. Or if your low on cash just heat the OEM boot up and stretch it over the larger 450r carb. If done correctly it will fit nice and snug like it was meant to.

[slightlybent47]

Originally posted by zrpilot
Good points. I'd rather stretch the existing airhorn over the carb and move the airbox forward then to hose clamp two pieces of rubber together.


OH! I see now!
You’re the seller of the adaptor. No wonder you don’t like my way of doing it.

How do we know your adaptor doesn’t have “microscopic” leaks in it as well?

There’s almost 2” of rubber on rubber with my adaptor with a clamp holding it tight.

If you’re worried about leaks use some rtv to seal it.

You seem to want to find fault with anything that’s not done your way.

I didn’t put down your adaptor, I merely tried to give the OP an option that was cheaper.

[zrpilot]

Right...

Do you see me trying to "sell" my adapter?

I can tell you that there are NO leaks when a rubber air horn is clamped onto an aluminum cylinder, otherwise Honda wouldn't do it... Certainly you must agree with that?

Also apparently you don't know me very well, I always go out of my way to help forum members, just like you are trying to do. Your method is an option and I am happy you are pleased with it. Like you, I too want to give members opinions and options for those doing this mod.

I am done discussing this, it seems we have both made our points and members can make up their own mind.
Originally posted by slightlybent47
OH! I see now!
You’re the seller of the adaptor. No wonder you don’t like my way of doing it.

How do we know your adaptor doesn’t have “microscopic” leaks in it as well?

There’s almost 2” of rubber on rubber with my adaptor with a clamp holding it tight.

If you’re worried about leaks use some rtv to seal it.

You seem to want to find fault with anything that’s not done your way.

I didn’t put down your adaptor, I merely tried to give the OP an option that was cheaper.

[CJM]

Ill add my 2 cents:

I got some of those plumbing fittings laying around anyways, I wanted the adapter b/c I felt it would seal better (I sealed it to the carb with rtv).

FWIW the metal adapter works fine imho, I can only guess the rubber plumbing fitting works fine as well since a few are using it. So far me and my buddy run the ZR adapter with no issues.

I will also add: ZR you need to make the adapter slightly longer-say about 3-5mm. This way the boot doesnt have to stretch as much to fit on there. I have a slightly hard time getting it on there b/c its so short. It being slightly longer would help.

[slightlybent47]

One looks better then the other but they function the same, and give the same results.
A shiny part doesn’t make it better. I see nothing wrong with your part, just a cost deference that’s all.

[AtvKid4Eva]

as long as it works the more power to you. However i would HATE to have a jetting issue and pull my hair out trying to figure it out and have it be air leaking from that rubber connection. If your going to do engine mods to your bike dont do them unless you can afford to do them correctly. Its not something you want to pay big $$ down the road because you cheaped out on a $50 part. Its stupid to sit here and argue about it. People are going to do whatever they want no matter how many times someone tries to give them better advice.:rolleyes:

[slightlybent47]

Originally posted by AtvKid4Eva
as long as it works the more power to you. However i would HATE to have a jetting issue and pull my hair out trying to figure it out and have it be air leaking from that rubber connection. If your going to do engine mods to your bike dont do them unless you can afford to do them correctly. Its not something you want to pay big $$ down the road because you cheaped out on a $50 part. Its stupid to sit here and argue about it. People are going to do whatever they want no matter how many times someone tries to give them better advice.:rolleyes:

Don't assume my way is somehow flawed, if you have never tried it.

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by zrpilot
So what prevents the two rubber hoses from being collapsed from the clamp?

The rubber part of the stock ex airboot is the only thing the filter clamps to on the stock setup. So that is the same principle and it works just fine from the factory and both are just rubber.

Also that is not a moving part so it will not seperate, everything is mounted to the motor or frame.

Just dont tighten it to the point of collapse.

[JOHNDOE83]

Originally posted by AtvKid4Eva
as long as it works the more power to you. However i would HATE to have a jetting issue and pull my hair out trying to figure it out and have it be air leaking from that rubber connection. If your going to do engine mods to your bike dont do them unless you can afford to do them correctly. Its not something you want to pay big $$ down the road because you cheaped out on a $50 part. Its stupid to sit here and argue about it. People are going to do whatever they want no matter how many times someone tries to give them better advice.:rolleyes:

The only people arguing are the ones saying that we are wrong.

Like slightlybent said, dont assume its flawed if you have never tried it.

If these methods are flawed then my 440ex drag bike would be slower then worked 450s and raptors.

[AtvKid4Eva]

noone is saying your wrong. We're just saying in our opinion there is a better way of doing it. Thats all.

[slightlybent47]

I’ve tested my adaptor by spraying starter fluid around the connection while running the motor. That is an old trick that has been used for years by most mechanics and will show a leak if there is one. It passed with flying colors.
My motor is race built, with high compression. And I’ve been racing it for 4 years on this build with the adaptor in place.
If something was flawed with my adaptor, or even the motor itself, it would have showed up by now.
This is a case where a person selling a product that they make is trying to defend there product by putting down any other method but there own.
I think you would have been better off by agreeing that my adaptor is also a good way to fix the problem. Then also adding that you have a nice adaptor that will do the same thing that looks good and function well. And let the consumer make up there mind.
Instead you just put down any other idea but your own. I run from people like that as fast as I can. It tells me you are only interested in selling your product at the expense of all others and there proven ideas.

Your selling a $10.00 machined part for what $50 bucks?

[chronicsmoke]

Originally posted by slightlybent47

Your selling a $10.00 machined part for what $50 bucks?

Not being biased but walk to your local machinest and have him make you one and see what the cost will be.. way more than 10$

[slightlybent47]

Originally posted by chronicsmoke
Not being biased but walk to your local machinest and have him make you one and see what the cost will be.. way more than 10$


This is a very simple part to make. On a manual lathe I could turn one out every 10 minuets. Wright a program for an nc lathe and parts will fly out every few minuets.
Sure if you go to a shop and ask for them to make one part it will cost more. But I would almost guaranty this guy has an nc lathe that spits them out much faster and cheaper then having just one made at a local shop.

[Stickman400]

If you paid attention ZR didn't say you're version was bad and wouldn't work. He said it was another way to do it, just a way he wouldn't recommend because of the chance it may leak if you didn't get it on right. His adapter is fool-proof, looks good and very simple to install, that's what he is trying to say.

[TheAwesomehonda]

I would agree that ZR adapter is over priced but it is the best way to be sure your gonna have a good seal.. I've tried it both ways...