stroker cranks reliable?

[Grande Huevos]

I was just debating on throwing a 4 mil stroker on my 330 but wanted to see what everybody who runs or has ran a stroked crank has to say. I know I will gain power but will it be as reliable as a stock stroke? And how much differance in power will it make?

[Motofool250r]

i had one of the old "bad hot rod cranks before they fixed the tin problem" it had a good 300 hard dune hours and 3 topends on it. before it let go

and im talking about WFO in every direction until an obstacle slowed me down. I was not nice to that motor at all .

the new cranks should not have any issues but buy from someone who moves hot rod cranks alot so you make sure to get a new style one.

DO NOT BUY WEISCO CRANKS

[C-LEIGH RACING]

The largest problem to deal on a 250R stroker cranks, are the tins coming off.
Why do the tins come off, because believe it or not, those crank web will flex & when it flexes it looses the hold the tins have to the crank webs & then they start to move.

Why does the crank web flex, how can it not, when so much metal has been removed where the big end pin hole was, to turn it into a longer stroke crank.

When the pin hole has been bored out to a larger hole & then a plug pressed in & welded, those crank webs are so thin on the outer edge the crank web cant hold its shape anymore, will flex, loose the tins, tin shift & start to shear off.
The welding looks good & will hold the pressed in plug in place for sure, but it has done nothing to replace the strength back into the web around the pin hole in that area.

One thing I do like about the Hot Rods +4 stroker cranks, the big end pin hole is already bored for the + stroke & NO plug pressed in like when an oem Honda crank is used.
The Hot Rods rod kit that comes on the cranks, someone some where going to have to do something about bearing clearances before I'll ever use another one.
Now take that new Hot Rods crank, press it apart & press in a Pro-x rod kit, you got a winning combo then for quite a few years of service.
Neil

[bobizzle]

to be honest with you i know people running 330 and 350 setups with the hot rods +4 stroked and there drag racing them, or riding the hell out of them on there duner bike. from time to time you will hear of the tins coming off as neil was stating, but i found the best thing to fix that problem is: find someone who can tig weld, tell them to fuse the tins to the crank by heating them, do not weld them on. alot of people i know have done this and had no issue with the tins.

[Motofool250r]

just for info's sake ever motor i run has a stroker crank.

2 have hot rod +4 and one has a custom +6mm stroke.

[bobizzle]

motofool, i feel you on running all your motors on strokers. all the ones i am building will be stroked. the difference in price is well worth spending about $40 more and having it stroked!

[atv fan 28]

I have been running a +6mil crank in the motor Neil built a few years back and it hasnt given me any problems!!

On my new motor i will be running a destroked crank "70mm".

[Motofool250r]

Originally posted by bobizzle
motofool, i feel you on running all your motors on strokers. all the ones i am building will be stroked. the difference in price is well worth spending about $40 more and having it stroked!

its free horsepower as long as the porting is updated

[deathman53]

Slevy used de-stroked crank in his 200cc kits, but he also machined the cylinder down, along with cooling improvements(enlarged water jacket in the front of the cylinder) to the cylinder and head, so a stock 66mm piston. He did this so the bore was just slighty smaller than the stroke, so it make torquey power and not light-switch like the de-bore 200cc kits.