please read and help esr 330 powervalve troubles

[nastyracing]

well i bought a bike with fresh esr 330 powervalve set up.
my engine builder along with arlen at led both suggested a DEJ needle 55 pilot and 175 main. when i got the bike it had 55 pilot dgh needle and 188 main. after spending some time breaking motor in i began to jett. i plug chopped a 175 main and it was a black ring a tad rich i was happy with it as when i put the 172 in the bike didnt pull as hard and as long.

so i loaded up and drove 8 hrs to the races. when i got there i battled a low end sputter bike breaking up lean condition with the dej needle in both the 4th and 5th richest clip. i tried everything before i finally put the dgh needle back in 55 pilot 2 turns on air screw and 175 main. bike was an animal finally woke up all around. made a couple pulls on drag strip at busco beach and headed to the mx track to practice for the race later that night. bike ran hard in air right before landings r's hung ever so slightly. well after two hard laps going for start finish jump shifting 4th to 5th the bike just poped and died as i clutch it and pulled off bike blew anti freeze all over my leg temp hit 250. after 5 mins tried to see if it was locked up motor was free had no compression tho.

when i got home i ripped the top end off to see the front of the piston melted away and the lower compression rign seized and top compression ring half way seized.

i am sure the **** pump fuel along with the constant wot didnt help me along with running around with lean needle.

but i am in the middle of rebuilding this thing for race this weekend. cylinder was able to be just honed .010 and it cleaned up perfect i was gonna next day another 75.5 mm piston. i was gonna slap it together and leak down test it and hope for best. any suggestions on jetting if what i have listed sounds about right or any ideas would be greatly apreciated.

i am running big bore lrd pipe, i have huge afco 3 qt rad, 39 pwk bored to 41.5, and the cylinder has a clean up port trx5 low to mid port. i am at sea level btw in nj.

I have never heard of a dgh needle before someone with some experiance please in form me .

thank you,

[chronicsmoke]

That sucks man.. What's your compression were you running and what plug were you using?

[nastyracing]

thats the one thing i forgot to ask what plug is recomended to be used in these motors i pulled a br9es out when first got it and put br8es in.

[DezSled]

I was using a dgh, had a slight ping in mid range. Duncan recommended to go to a dgg (richer in the middle) 4th clip down and it made a big difference, also was told to run vp c12 straight no mixing with premium pump gas. Running a Duncan national cyl 23 cc head br9ev 39 pwk 185m 58p turner hi rev pipe sea level. I can't recommend anything but sounds like you should run some race gas mixed in. Good luck

[nastyracing]

thanks for replys. looks like the br8es plug was a big cause to my problems everyone has told me br9es is a must but i distanctly asked before i switched to 8s but you live and you learn is guess. what is a br9ev plug? i believe i figured out why motor went bad now last time and hoping that i can have it set up by the weekend safely and bust some 4stroke *** this weekend on mx track!!!!

thank you guys

[Motofool250r]

did you do a leak down test to ensure you were not sucking air and that leaned you out?

[DezSled]

A br9ev is a spark plug that is no longer available. br9eg what I have found now. There a little bit better than a br9es, but i'll run them anytime too.

Like the last guy said leak down test is manditory. 7lbs for 7 minutes? Thats what I remember....

[RyanWsly]

Timing issue possibly, I have had CDI boxes run advanced and break up just like you are describing and it would be very hit and miss, but the hotter it got the more I noticed it doing it. Just something to maybe keep in mind if your problem is still there after you finish the repair.

[bobizzle]

the br9eg is a good plug for you to run on your application, the electrode on the plug is very small and it will burn before your piston will burn. it allow you to keep from frying a piston, but will cost you 7-15 dollars for the plug depending on where you purchased it from.

[Grande Huevos]

I don't think the 8 plug had anything to do with your motor melting down. I personally have ran br8es in my 310 and my 330 and never had one issue nor could I tell any kind of diff between a 9 and 8. I run a inline temp guage and the temp doesn't change from one plug to the next....one thing I can tell you is that pump fuel will trash a top end in a heart beat especially if you have a high compression motor. I bet the top of your piston looked like it had little crators all over it? This is from pre detonation!! Vp 110 or any "race" fuel runs cooler then pump and won't detonate like pump fuel. it is the only way to go if you want your motor to run good and last. I highly recomend getting a diff domw and making the switch to straight 110.......also if you have a temp guage always keep a close eye on it.it can save you a lot of money! My 330 never breaks 175 and if for some reason it would start to climb I would shut her down at 200 max.........check your water impeller maybe somthing broke or got jamed and that's what caused it to climb so fast???

[Motofool250r]

you need to do some plug chops to set your jetting.

leak down test and coolant system test so you know its sealed up and not leaking air at the reed cage or other places here is a how to on plug chops

http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/plugchop.htm

only thing different i recomend is do 2-3passes same procedure on the plug chop plug go through the gears quickly and wide open pass in 5th stop turn around another pass and then pull n switch plugs.

[bobizzle]

Originally posted by Grande Huevos
I don't think the 8 plug had anything to do with your motor melting down. I personally have ran br8es in my 310 and my 330 and never had one issue nor could I tell any kind of diff between a 9 and 8. I run a inline temp guage and the temp doesn't change from one plug to the next....one thing I can tell you is that pump fuel will trash a top end in a heart beat especially if you have a high compression motor. I bet the top of your piston looked like it had little crators all over it? This is from pre detonation!! Vp 110 or any "race" fuel runs cooler then pump and won't detonate like pump fuel. it is the only way to go if you want your motor to run good and last. I highly recomend getting a diff domw and making the switch to straight 110.......also if you have a temp guage always keep a close eye on it.it can save you a lot of money! My 330 never breaks 175 and if for some reason it would start to climb I would shut her down at 200 max.........check your water impeller maybe somthing broke or got jamed and that's what caused it to climb so fast???

there is a huge difference between a br8 and br9. br9 runs cooler than the br8, i am not talking about water temp. the plug has nothing to do with water temp, it deals with exhaust temperature. the range to shoot for is around 1000 degrees F 6 inches from the exhaust manifold. if the bike is running warm it on the temp side, then it could be a lot of different things that will make the temperature rise i.e. running lean, seizure, lack of coolant flow...

also, just changing the dome to a "race gas dome" and running vp 110/c-12 will not always work. the motor needs to be setup for race fuel, this is done by making sure the compression ratio in not above 15:1, which is the highest ratio for vp110 and c-12. i had a motor and decided to do the same thing, and it resulted in predetination. i did my math and concluded i was running 17.8:1 ccr. i had the choice to back off my squish, or cut out 3cc from my dome. i chose to cut the dome leaving a high squish. i am at 14.7:1 ccr, no problems and running like a champ.

also, if you run over 15:1 you will have to lower the ccr or switch to alcohol.

[Grande Huevos]

Br8 will not meslt a piston, if so id be in the same boat and we would hear about this going on alot. Also he claimed his temp hit 250.......that is his water temp, if water temp reaches that high then the inside of that cylinder is too hot! So yes race fuel would be better for him and would run at a cooler temp regardless the compression.

[bobizzle]

there is no spark plug that will melt a piston if tuned right, if it is lean running any plug it will melt a piston. running lean melts pistons. plugs don't melt pistons, the plug is just the source of detonation, unless there was predetonation where the spark plug turned into a glow plug. then there would be no time in between strokes for it to cool causing to raise the temperature and melting the piston.

and i run br8es or br8eg in all my bikes depending on how they are setup.

and race fuel runs cooler regardless of compression? you do know you have to have the right amount of compression for race fuel to even burn right? go and pour some race gas in your weed eater and see how shotty it runs, the reason is because the compression is setup for pump gas not race fuel. this is the same concept and running race fuel in a bike setup for pump gas.

[bobizzle]

here is a picture of what happens when you are running a br8es plug, lean, and high exhaust duration. there was no issue from the spark plug, the issue was running lean with high exhaust duration, in return it made the exhaust temperature over 1100 degrees Fahrenheit, i don't know exact temp due to temp gauge not installed at this time. this caused the exhaust side of the piston to melt away and form pits on the edge of the piston.

this setup was a 310 non power valve, running c-12, 112 octane fuel, with a ccr of 14:1 and exhaust duration of 190.

since then the jetting was fixed and there has been a br8eg plug installed. the br8eg has a smaller and thinner electrode, like iridium plugs, allowing the electrode to fry before any damage will be done to the piston.

hope this explanation helps you understand what i am trying to say in my other posts.

[mx91a]

Wow 14:1 CCR that is over 20:1 UCCR! Timing advanced any?

[nastyracing]

Thats exactly what my motor looked like when disassembled. Exactly that what caused your lean condition?

[nastyracing]

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/440exjt/IMG_20120604_192921.jpg

[bobizzle]

Running +1 to +2 timing advance.. the best way to not do this is get the exhaust temp gauge and probe. Insert probe 6 inches from exhaust manifold in header pipe be threading a 1/4" not fitting. This is not my setup, a close friends. I knew exactly what happened when I seen the piston.

Phones about to die, ask any questions you have and I will answer them later.

Also 14:1 is corrected compression ratio. It is the ratio of the amount of air in cylinder at BDC compared to the amount compressed at TDC.

[bobizzle]

this setup that is pictured was a esr 310 non power valve, running either the stock or cr250 ignition, not sure off hand which one, but if you are running stock ignition with race gas you will have to advance timing +1 degree with rpm timing advance, or any other timing advance, due to it taking longer for race fuel to spark and burn. if you are running the complete cr 250 ignition then there is no way to advance timing unless you waddle out the pickup plate and move it slightly advanced. the cr ignition runs +1 on the trx motors.

i know when my friend sent me a pic of his piston after taking off the head that his exhaust was was to hot, meaning that it was running lean. you can tell because the gas was so hot when it was leaving the cylinder that it was melting a little bit off the piston on exhaust side when it would leave the cylinder. you can either plug chop the motor like normal, or you can do what i was talking about with the exhaust temp gauge. the gauge is faster and more accurate, but you will have to weld in a bung, buy the gauge, and hook up a source power power since they are powered. or you can plug chop and hope it is good. :/

nastyracing can you send me the specs of you motor: squish, head cc, port timings, stroke, bore, stroked or not, gasket sizes... im not sure if you built it, or got the kit from ESR and they told you to set it up with there spacer plate and two .020 (twenty thousandths) gaskets. if you set it up the way esr said for pump gas than most likely you will have to run on race gas. they are generically set up and most likely running to high of compression for pump gas. or you may not be stroked and it is still an issue, either way if you can let me know some specs so i can try to help you with this issue. it sucks to fry out the piston and have to spend another $150 for a new piston, but hopefully you can get it right this time and get it running like a champion.

also, the piston rolls off all the way to the exhaust ring due to the rings being made out of steel and able to take the heat of the exhaust temperature without and deformation.

[mx91a]

Originally posted by bobizzle


Also 14:1 is corrected compression ratio. It is the ratio of the amount of air in cylinder at BDC compared to the amount compressed at TDC.

Ok this is the Un-Corrected Compression Ratio (UCCR) then. The Corrected Compression Ratio (CCR) is the ratio of the volume above the piston at exhaust port closing to the ratio of trapped volume above the piston at TDC. Here is a nice chart that shows compression ratios (UCCRs) and their respective octane requirements for those interested:

http://www.macdizzy.com/compress.htm

[bobizzle]

i never used those charts, i have a friend who helps me on the octane i need to run depending on squish, cc of head, stroke, piston size, and exhaust duration. the chart is more for stock cylinder setups and not for big bore cylinders, you can do the math from stock to big bore, but the numbers are different from the charts. also, i called vp race fuels and the said 110 octane is good up to 15:1, but on the chart it says 108 octane is good up to 17:1. by my math that would be in the range of alcohol. i was running 17.3:1 and it was predetonating on c-12.

i know mac dizzy is a trusted source, but some of the numbers don't add up sometimes, so i usually ask a friend about the fuel situation. he races and builds motors, so i know he will make sure it is right.

[nastyracing]

esr trx 5 porting the low to mid clean up port 75.5 mm, lrd exhaust, 39 pwk bored to 41.5, hot rods crank, 20 thou spacer plate esr gaskets from them, was sopose to be a pump gas dome, 180 psi on my gauge, i believe cr250 ignition have to double check, when i tried to leakdown test motor i was loosing pressure out powervalve jett tried putting hose on and plugging it with no luck. i am gonna retest leakdown as someone gave me the idea of soddering another random jett closed to plug it.

i will releakdown test it this week and check back but all this info is really helping me. i just need to figure it out in a step by step process this was a lot for me to read and i am not a motor guru but i do have two others helping me. none of us have ever dealt with power valve set up and are banshee guys so its all new.

[bobizzle]

so from what im understanding is that ESR sent you a .249 spacer plate and 2 .002 gaskets, green or black? a 1/4" thick aluminum plate and 2 gaskets or you are not stroked?

when my friend set up the one that was shown, it needed race gas with the pump ga dome, this was due to the squish and the uccr. now you may be good, but you just needa figure out your squish,

[mx91a]

Originally posted by bobizzle
i called vp race fuels and the said 110 octane is good up to 15:1, but on the chart it says 108 octane is good up to 17:1. by my math that would be in the range of alcohol. i was running 17.3:1 and it was predetonating on c-12.


Just curious did VP say that 110 is good to 15:1 for a two stroke or they didn't specify?

That c-12 is 108 octane so depending on your head design, squish, timing, jetting and cooling could easily detonate at 17.3:1 like you experienced. C-14 or alcohol like you said would be better for the ultra high ratios. I'm running ~17.5:1 and 255 psi on 114 octane for my XC motor and that setup works great but she is all low end grunt not a screamer!

[bobizzle]

they had said the limit is 15:1 on any motor, once you exceed 15:1 it mill most likely detonate. there is a thresh hold allowed to go on into 16:1, but limiting to factors dealing with the setup, it may still detonate. he stated to stay right under 15:1 and you will be safe. vp-112 is 112 octane, and c-112 is 110 octane. c-12 has fewer additives in it and is more friendly to two strokes. vp has additives put in for the 4-strokes to keep them cool and have a consistent burn.

your XC must be setup for low end, most of the people around here set there motor up for sand drags the same way, with high compression and alcohol, and they are screamers, its full out drag ports, high compression and high exhaust duration.

[Motofool250r]

at 15:1 you need to be running c12 at minimum and above that looking into methonal

[bobizzle]

nope, race fuel is the perfect barrier for the setup im running.

[Motofool250r]

edited my post meant to say c12 not c16 although c16 is a great fuel too but a bit more expensive

[265 sleeper]

Originally posted by nastyracing
Thats exactly what my motor looked like when disassembled. Exactly that what caused your lean condition? that's my build I switched to a cr ignition. She ran lean on some topend pulls. Rejetted and fixed it till the sleeve dropped

[nastyracing]

bump
ok im backing to working on this thing. i did a squesh test and could feel the piston touch the sodder but it didnt actually squesh it any so i know that its not to tight. did this numerous times to double check. yes i know if it isnt tight enough motor wont build velocity ect ect. but my issues is a lean condition and r's hanging slightly when in area off big jumps. i reused the vforce gasket with a little red rtv and took the tiny bs intake gasket that came with esr topend gasket kit. i soddered a random jett i had to place where the powervalve jett is in the head as last time i was trying to leakdown test it air was leaking out that jett infront of power valve and couldnt find a way to plug it to get a correct leak down test. so i will attempt to releak down test it tonight hopefuly it holds. any other suggestions would be apreciated and advice as i aproach this again this is my first power valve motor so i am new to this in general.

also ordered a new throttle cable and got rid of the crappy old 250r thumb throttle with plastic gear mech in it and replaced it with the thumb throttle from my 450r i just parted out.

[bobizzle]

when i check my squish, i use .080 thick solder, the kind used in pluming. i use a mic to see exactly how big it is when i start. with the head on bend the solder in an arc with an approximate 1.5 diameter. put the solder through the spark plug hole and go to the left or right side of the motor on the piston above the wrist pin. this will be a more exact calculation due to the piston not being able to move, unlike if you pointed it toward the intake or exhaust side which would be inaccurate due to some movement of the piston front to back.

if you are using the same size solder and still not getting a reading then you are really high on the squish, meaning definitely pump gas, not sure without doing all the calculations.

the squish will help with velocity somewhat, but it also depends on size of carb, porting, reeds... not really worried about velocity. the big concern is getting you back up and running without any other issues.

now for jumping big jumps and running lean that is a good question. it is stating to me that it is starving for fuel, strange, but never the less not too uncommon. a route that you can look into would be a fuel pump. this will insure that the bowl on the carb is full at all time and not gravity fed like normal.

leak down test should hold up with the needle sealed up, if you are still having an issue with the needle leaking go ahead and epoxy it, or jb weld it shut. sometimes solder doesn't bond the greatest for pressure applications due to its soft nature.

hope this helps and gets you going.

also, make sure you plug chop the hell out of your bike insuring the idle, mid-range, and top end are tuned for your riding condition and atmosphere. i have taken a couple days to plug chop one bike before to insure it was exactly tuned. take your time and have fun with it.

[RyanWsly]

That thumb throttle will not open the slide all the way, it doesn't have enough throw.

[bobizzle]

it doesn't have enough throw, wow, that's good to know, had a spare one floating around and was thinking about using it. do you know the amount it is lacking by to pick up the slide all the way?

[Burns310r]

Easiest way is to take the carb off and leave the cable attached. Cycle the throttle while looking into the end of the carb. You can see if its opening all the way or not.

[RyanWsly]

The one my friend tried it on was only opening about 3/4 or a little less, I have heard others say the same thing on here.

[bobizzle]

i would do it, but i need to order another cable before i could even try, thanks for the info. imma look into it more and try to see if there maybe be something else i can do like make a bigger cam for the cable to ride in and open the carb more

[Jesse1980]

sent pm to nastyracing

[bobizzle]

hey nastyracing, did you bore your cases for your 330, or buy a drop in cylinder. im working on a 330 right now and curious how much space you were leaving between your cylinder sleeve and cases.

[Burns310r]

i think the standard is to bore the cases to 3.35" Tha way you can put a 350 in it to the max bore if ever needed.

[bobizzle]

ok, thanks, i know it was a little more than 3.25 since thats the size now, but couldnt remember.

[nastyracing]

checking back with results i releak down tested the motor with a jett i soddered closed and put in place where power valve jet was the motor lost about 1.5 psi in 7 mins further inspection seen it was bubbling out the threads and nut of screw coming out of the top of powervalve while on the phone with engine builder tsi racing he said that was fully acceptable. as far as my squesh it is huge i was unable to get a true reading the piston did hit the sodder but not smush. that being said the bike has 180psi kicking compression on a pump gas dome. tsi racing said they could cut me a custom cut race gas dome if wanted couple extra hp. i am truely just trying to get back out and makes some laps on the track. 450r thumb throttle and new cable worked wonders over ****ty plastic mech that was in the 250r one. yes the thumb throttle did not open the carb up all the way, but nothing a stone and dremel couldnt clearance. quick fix and very light smooth pull. i have done this to several 505ex 400ex motors i have had with huge carbs, and also run ex thumb throttle on my banshee what a huge difference for who ever ride long and hard on any yamaha with ****ty thumb throttle.

that being said i did not get out on the R this weekend had to take the banshee out in the dunes and prove some points. but will defiently check back with full results of how the R performs on the track and hopefuly all my issues have been sorted out.
2strokes for life! thank you for all the replies and helping me out with my troubles

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Nasty,
You the guy I seen at Busco Beach during the super cross race, had the red 250R seized up ??.

If you are, then let me ask you, why are you trying to use pump gas on an engine you've spent so much on trying to make it fast.

Pump gas is made for one thing, to fill up your car or truck today, burn it out & then fill it up again tomorrow.
If not, then why do the gas companys lace it with ethanol to cause your car or truck to get bad fuel millage & for god sake, that ethanol is in it to KILL a 2 stroke.

On a performance built engine, you have to choose on the fuel your going to use, either gas or methanol, but not a mix because it will drive jetting crazy.

Before you run that engine hard again, make sure that air leak is only at the PV, that the pipe is sealed where it connects to the exhaust flange & that the ignition timing not set advanced any, specially if you have the CR ignition set up & using the ESR adapter plate.

Pistons melt on the edge like that, because theres so high of a heat being blown out the exhaust port, be it from to much advance ignition timing, to low of an octane gas & sometimes from cooling issues, but regardless of which, all of the gas & oil in the cylinder is getting burned up to quick & none is being left unburnt to cool the piston top.

Always jet rich, even if it means loosing a HP or two, because that 2 stroke engine cant live if you dont feed it good.
Neil

[nastyracing]

yes that would be me the one who you seen at supercross race at buscoe, i was running the banshee that race due to the failure of the 250r, and yes i got my *** handed to me on that tight track with the +2 swing arm i was running on my banshee. I am assuming you are the guy who david introduced me to that is into the 250r and builds the motors for flat trackers?

well said on the whole race gas thing, couldnt have said it any better to get the point threw my head.

yesterday was out practicing and tuning for a race thats coming up all my prior issues have been worked out. my main concern now is temperature. i run three hard laps and temps hitting 225 degrees fast and i am shutting the bike down. i pulled the stator cover off to see the timing advanced 4 degrees, backed it down to stock and the bike dropped temp to around 215 degrees when running hard, still to hot for my liking. dropped the timing to -1 degrees and temp stayed at 215degrees but when shifting gears at WOT bike would hesistate and come out of power band. so right now i have bike set back to stock timing where it felt best at. with concerns of temperature and running hot, i am gonna drain the antifreeze and check impeller and water pump bearing, and switch back over to engine ice. WILL ENGINE ICE TRUELY DROP the temp in this motor atleast another 5 degrees?

as far as the rest of things the bike is fat as a pig all around, with zero air leaks other then at the threads to power valve lock nut bolt. im at a 175main 55 pilot dgh needle in 4th clip elevation at sea level and plug is dark brown more like black ring. i have chopped it at numerous positions.

the bike does run hard and i am sure there is a lot more left in it, but im trying to go for reliable and just make lap after lap on this thing and enjoy the lighter bike on the track with less rider fatigue.

Neil also can u pm me a contact number to speak with you DDQ(david) said you are the man to talk on these things.

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Check that radiator out real good.
Like check to see if it is flowing good through the flues & check on the out side to make sure no dirt or silt has built up in between the fins.
Lot of times, build up on the out side wont let enough air through to cool the fluid inside the radiator.

When you check the impeller, the outter edge of the blades should be straight & not worn down.
Sometimes when the pump shaft bearing goes out, or the bearings on the counter balancer, it will push the pump shaft forward into the thin tin defusser & wear the end of the impeller & then the edges of the blades will be stepped instead of stright.

Sounds like your still using the stock TRX ignition, so set the spark plug gap around 0.18~0.20 & that might ease up on some of the fat pig skip up top.

You guys coming down to Busco Labor day weekend ??.
Big double header EDT race event that weekend.
Thursday evening will be open practice, Then whole day of racing Friday & then the same thing all over again Saturday.
Neil

[Deuce426]

Here are the photos of the impeller and housing I'm uploading for Joe...

Housing...

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Yep, its worn, both pieces need to be replaced.

It is important though, to find out why it did that, like the pump shaft bearing messed up or either the balancer bearings are gone out.
The tip of the impeller blades, need to sit real close to that defusser tin, or else the impeller cant push the coolant up into the cylinder, it will just kinda flush around inside the water pump & be a very slow flow from the pump, cylinder & to the radiator.

If you could, blow up those pics, so everybody can get a good like at what an impellers NOT suppose to look like on its blades.
Thanks, Neil

[Deuce426]

Here I took the photos of the impeller that Joe (nasty) sent me, and enlarged them so the damage is easier to see.

The photos were taken with a phone so the quality is not the greatest, but you'll get the idea.

[Deuce426]

Impeller again

[Deuce426]

Water pump cover

[C-LEIGH RACING]

You done good Deuce, that is good enough that everybody can see.

If your impeller looks like this, it needs to be replaced.

Could you post those pics on t r x 2 5 0r . n e t.
Thanks, Neil

[Deuce426]

Neil,

I posted the pictures up over there in the engine section. I also copied/pasted the stuff you wrote about it as well to shine some more lite on the damage and how to rectify it.

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Thank you for that, just trying to keep these ol 2 smokes alive any way I can.
Neil

[nastyracing]

neil i m trying to order these parts and they are telling me the 86/87 style motors run the impeller and brass washer and nut seperate. the only impeller i can find new is 89 style with nut built into the impeller and they told me it wouldnt work with the shaft i had and they dont sell the shaft any more. i ordered a new tin already but trying to find where i can get the rest of these parts?? got a race coming up this weekend and scrambling to get it together

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Check with Nac's Racing & Baldwin Motorsports.
If you call Baldwins & by chance get Mark on the phone, tell him Chuckie Creech father in law, said he heard he had plenty of 250R parts at his shop, so just go ahead & sell that part your looking.
Neil