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View Full Version : How To: Polishing Side Casings



Rohr397
05-17-2012, 10:21 PM
This thread is my guide to polishing the side casings of your 400ex, or most any other quad. Everyone has their own method for doing this. I'm not looking to debate a "right or wrong" way. This is just how I personally would do it. Enjoy!

Feel free to ask questions!

Rohr397
05-17-2012, 10:36 PM
The first step is to sand off the paint on the casing. I found that 100 grit sand worked best for this. Just go gently, don't use a block or any electric sanders. Slower is better.

There's a good chance the brake pedal will be in your way, just push it down with one hand and use the other to continue sanding.

I cannot stress enough, be GENTLE. The large scratches are tough to get out!

When done with that it should look something like this

400exwhipper
05-17-2012, 10:44 PM
Use aircraft remover it will take the paint right off, no sanding

Rohr397
05-17-2012, 10:45 PM
After that I used 220 grit and 500 grit to smooth things out a bit more. Finally I went over it with steel wool.

Next I used a solvent and paper towel to wipe the surface down and take a look at everything to make sure I didn't miss a spot in my sanding.

Now begins the polishing. Using a finer grade steel wool of your choice, apply Flitz with the steel wool. Polish in multiple directions, going in a circular motion or back and forth will give you the same results. I applied more as needed, and polished until I could start to see a reflection on the surface of my case. Once the entire case starts to reflect, use a rag to wipe the polish off. Assess if any additional polishing is needed, than clean again with solvent.

*** To add a little extra, you can use high temp paint on a paper plate and apply it to the "Honda" logo on the casing, using a paper towel to wipe off and drips or runs.

The final result should look something like this. Hope this comes in handy, thanks for reading! :macho

Rohr397
05-17-2012, 10:52 PM
Here's a materials list:

-100 grit sandpaper
-220 grit sandpaper (Wet or dry)
-500 grit sandpaper (Wet or dry)
-00 Steel Wool
-Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer
-Lacquer Thinner
-Paper Towels (Blue shop rags)
-Cotton Rags

This takes about an hour to an hour and a half if you really work at it. Can be done faster with a polishing wheel I would imagine.

b0rn c0nfused
05-17-2012, 10:53 PM
Dam* that is a good looking case cover! Thanks doe the info.

Rohr397
05-17-2012, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by b0rn c0nfused
Dam* that is a good looking case cover! Thanks doe the info.

Thanks! :D

Stickman400
05-17-2012, 11:36 PM
Here's a pic for those who don't want to break their necks. Idk why it keeps spinning them sideways on you. Anyway nice cover and write up Rohr. I hope to do that to mine one day.

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv192/Stickman400/Quad%20Pics/sidecover.jpg

Rohr397
05-17-2012, 11:39 PM
Hahaha thanks idk why either!

Jrod-04-400ex
05-18-2012, 01:11 PM
Really like the look of that!! Do u think u will have to keep replying to keep it shiny?

CJM
05-18-2012, 03:41 PM
Originally posted by Jrod-04-400ex
[B Do u think u will have to keep replying to keep it shiny? [/B]

Yes you would need t keep polishing it as aluminum oxidizes overtime and will become a grey/dull color.

Jrod-04-400ex
05-18-2012, 04:07 PM
That's what I thought. Thanks. It's just like wheels

dc01
05-19-2012, 08:01 PM
I polished mine to a mirror finish but got so tired of doing it I painted the cases and kept some small stuff polished. It even looks better to me. And the high temp engine paint holds up well too.

Rohr397
05-19-2012, 08:51 PM
Yeah I am willing to continue polishing it, as some of you know I am going for the classic 250r look :) It may be little by little but that's the goal.

Napalm Nate
05-20-2012, 08:16 AM
using a buffer will make your polishing a lot brighter

Rohr397
05-20-2012, 10:37 AM
Haha wow! That looks awesome when I first saw it my jaw dropped. I am going to buy a buffer this week to do mine, I didn't have one at the time.

ansimation
05-31-2012, 02:47 PM
You pick up a buffer yet? I'm interested to see what the difference is. Also would like to know what type of buffer you end up getting. I'd like to this myself but I'm a little lost at how to "polish" something properly.

Rohr397
05-31-2012, 03:01 PM
I haven't gotten around to buffering since I did the polishing. I've been pretty busy lately.

As far as the polishing goes it's really simple. Once you get the case to bare metal, dip the steel wool into the Flitz and apply it to the case. Going in a circular motion works best. Keep at it for quite awhile and make sure to cover everything evenly. Wipe away with a towel when you're done. It's a lot like waxing a car. If you need to polish it more just repeat the same process.

Jayskee
06-01-2012, 01:25 PM
That looks pretty good napalm.

Rohr- after the 500 grit you need to bump it up to 1000 - 1200. Then hit it up on the wheel. And if you a buffering grinder type becareful. I had that wheel rip parts out my hands numerous times and thank god I've not been hit in the face yet. I did my starter and its incredible. The side cares are really really hard because of all the deep areas. I went to EASTWOOD.COM and talked to the guys there. They sell the aluminum polishing wheel kits. Has all the different wheels the pros. use, the old man there told me to put wax on the polish parts once you get them to your liking. Don't use clear coat from what he told me.
EASTWOOD.COM had buffing grinders on sale last week. Sears has them too.

Napalm Nate
06-01-2012, 03:07 PM
eastwood products are good i used el cheapo harbor freight polishing kit and a die grinder. the key is to get the aluminum as smooth as posssible (by sanding) before you start buffing I went from 500 grit all the way to 2000 just remember this takes a long time and is a real pain but worth it in the end