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View Full Version : About To Be A 250r owner, any info?



Rohr397
04-16-2012, 07:54 AM
I am going to be buying a 250r in the next month or two. I've never owned one before so I don't know if I should be looking for anything "fishy"

I'm not new to the sport, just new to the 250r. I can't wait to pick one up!

esstrx250r
04-17-2012, 09:11 AM
-Look for case damage by the front sprocket is a common spot.
-Frame cracks or welds.
-Ask about engine mods.
*What brand crank? Ever Replaced or rebuilt?
*Stock cylinder? What bore? When was it rebuilt? Ported?
*Race gas or Pump?
-86 has the short rod engine, 87-89 has the long rod. 86 and 87 have the same frame and 88-89 have the same frame.
-89 came from the factory with a upgraded clutch, ask if this mod has been done if you buy a 86-88, if not do it, its easy and pretty cheap.
-If you do not need a key or headlight, you can upgrade your ignition system to a CR250 ignition.

Those are a few things that pop in my head. You can learn a lot on here by doing searches and on TRX250R.net

bradenc19
04-17-2012, 09:34 AM
i have fullbore rear an front no problem i dnt use the rear bracket suport

Rohr397
04-17-2012, 10:28 AM
Thanks I'll definitely look for that. Most of the 250r's I'm looking at are 1988's, original owner and mostly stock (piped, filtered and P&P). Is there an advantage to the long-rod vs. short-rod and how necessary is the clutch upgrade?

esstrx250r
04-17-2012, 11:35 AM
Either long or short is fine, I've heard that a long rod is slightly more reliable but I don't know that for sure.

The clutch upgrade is a huge improvement, you don't have to do it but it is one of the best mods you can do to a TRX250R.

88's from the original owner? Thats great! Can't be many of those left around, what price range are u looking at? I would think an 88 that is in good original condition and a one owner machine would be mega bucks.

Rohr397
04-17-2012, 12:23 PM
All of them are $3000 or under. There's only two over that price on craigslist, both are fully built, one with a laegar frame and one with a 450r motor swap and full lonestar build.

beerock
04-17-2012, 03:43 PM
the 86 has a short rod and 87-89 have a long rod...

the rod was lengthened 5mm and the wrist pin location on the piston raised 5mm for more reliability. honda did this because the 86 pistons and rod setup would tend to crack the exhaust side of the piston due to, too much of a rod angle..


the trick people use to get more Air volume in the cases was using a long rod with a 5mm spacer plate and a 86 style piston for a broader power band...

so its better to find a long rod so you can do this mod without taking the cases apart and replacing the crank...


you will be in the same situation as the old 86 piston cracking by the bottom edge of the exhaust side but the air volume definately gives a broader power band...

furthermore, you can also add a reed cage spacer plate to add even more volume to the motor

the 88-89 frames are better for sure however they all crack and all need gusseting... if you search under my name and type in gusseting youll find some posts by me that show the exact areas that need to be gusseted.


the 89 clutch update is by far NOT the best mod you can do LOL however it is a good mod that will allow your clutch to be more precise and it will not wear out like the older style clutch pushrods...

the 89 clutch update consist of a 89 push rod, 89 pressure plate, 89 push rod actuator and a 89 needle bearing that pushes the pressure plate out to disengage the clutch

the older style pushroda did not have the needle bearing and they wore out really fast and made the adjustment always go past adjustment specs

the 88-89 came with aluminum swingarms that were an 1" shorter (i think) and the shock and shock linkage was different.

and the a-arms were +1 forward thus shifting the weight forward for a better center of gravity

the 88-89 aluminum swingarms are a prone to cracking however they will last a long time.

the front hubs were updated in 88

you want to look for a R that has a double roller bearing carrier or tapered bearing carrier as the stock ones sucked ***.(its a 200-300 dolla mod so look for one with it or be ready to buy one.. even if it has one you dont know how man hours are on those bearings and they may need to be replaced.

thats all i can think of for now LOL

Rohr397
04-17-2012, 04:20 PM
Good info for sure, are these problems prone to happen to anyone or just hard riders? I don't intend to ride this quad hard like I ride my 400. It's gonna get jumped here and there but nothing ridiculous.

esstrx250r
04-17-2012, 04:51 PM
Beerock, I said ONE of the best mods you can do and I forgot to put "for the money" at the end of that statement. And for the money it prob is the best mod you can do.

beerock
04-17-2012, 05:03 PM
Originally posted by Rohr397
Good info for sure, are these problems prone to happen to anyone or just hard riders? I don't intend to ride this quad hard like I ride my 400. It's gonna get jumped here and there but nothing ridiculous.


HAHAHA thats what you think........... you didnt catch the bug yet.....

I cant answer the hard riding question because like i said you didnt catch the bug yet...

some of the problems are inherent with the R the cracking and stuff is mroe towards hard riding but believe me once you start riding it I wouldnt be surprised if you start selling parts off your 400ex for the R

beerock
04-17-2012, 05:05 PM
Originally posted by esstrx250r
Beerock, I said ONE of the best mods you can do and I forgot to put "for the money" at the end of that statement. And for the money it prob is the best mod you can do.

ok