Piston meet valve

[WoodTRD]

Finally have my bike back together after a rebuild and changing timing chain and now I can't get the cam timing right. By the book everything is set up like its supposed to be, but after I got it all buttoned up and rolled it over by hand (luckily) to check everything before firing it up I found the intake valves hitting.

The piston is in the right way (wiseco 87mm 11:1 domed piston with the arrow pointing to exhaust).
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/WoodTRD/04102e9c.jpg

With the t lined up with the index notch I have the cam lobes down, sprocket lines horizontal with the head, and other line vertical.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/WoodTRD/ea6d0c1c.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/WoodTRD/8e7309b5.jpg

The only thing I can figure is I have it timed on the wrong stroke, how would I check? When the t lines up with the notch the cam and sprocket are either like they're supposed to be or 180 degrees the other way.

Main thing I'm confused about is when I line the timing mark up with the notch and continue rolling the motor past it the piston still comes up another 3/4" or so, that can't be right. I'm thinking about pulling the flywheel again to make sure its on and the key didn't get sheared or something which I seriously doubt.

Any input? I covered all the bases as well as I know and am stumped. How do I be sure its on the compression stroke and why is the motor not at TDC when the t mark is in the notch?

I would be concerned about it just not having enough clearance due to running a xr thickness head gasket and no base gasket but tons of other people have done it with no problems so it's got to be in my timing. any help would be greatly appreciated, I've had this thing apart for a month already.

doesn't make any sense.quick question.how do you know the valves are hitting?is it binding up or something?i've done a ton of these motors and never experienced this problem.

[WoodTRD]

Yes, after putting the valve cover on and rolling it over by hand it stops solid when the piston is up and intake valves are down.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/WoodTRD/?action=view¤t=fac36237.jpg&evt=user_media_share

I rolled it forward from where I have the timing set (sprocket lines up with the head, t in the notch) till it stopped and that's the position of the cam when I pulled the valve cover. It will turn over freely without the valve cover in place so it's got to be valve to piston contact, leading me to believe its not timed right.

spark plug in and everything bolted down? could just be the compression stopping you.remove the plug and try it.doesn't seem like the valves should ever be able to contact the piston.worst case i would think it should just run like crap or not at all.

[WoodTRD]

That's without a spark plug in it too and checking depth of the piston with a pencil, it's a solid stop. Im still tinkering with it, and don't understand why the piston is still on the upstroke when it passes the t mark. I'll check some more.

[WoodTRD]

The piston still comes up another 7/8" after passing the t mark. I changed the flywheel back to a stock key from a +6, I'm about to pull the flywheel and make sure it hasn't spun or anything. About all I can think of at this point

yea sorry i haven't seen it before so i don't think i'll be much more help.just gonna take like you said some more tinkering.if you don't have one get a buddy to help hold everything and line it up.goes a lot smoother that way.i'm sure someone will chime in here with some advice.good luck

[hybridracer686]

is the timing chain kinked at the lower end gear had mine do that and it would not turn over much and then lock tight. dropped it into the case when reassembling the top end. had to pull kinda hard to get it back.:muscle:

[WoodTRD]

Finally got it figured out and fired up. The flywheel key was too far down in the slot and almost flush with the sides of the slot, allowing the flywheel to get turned and throw my timing marks way off. Picked it up a little in the slot, timed it according to the t again now that it was in the correct position, and it turned over as it should and cranked right up.

Now I get to wait on my clutch side case gasket that was missing from the cometic gasket set to get here. I'm pretty sure they put a wrong gasket in my kit instead of it...pretty frustrating but I have one ordered at the dealership, hopefully it'll be here quick.

Glad I got it figured out, I was pretty worried for a little bit haha. Good thing I turned it over by hand first instead of just hitting the start button, coulda been bad.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by WoodTRD
Finally got it figured out and fired up. The flywheel key was too far down in the slot and almost flush with the sides of the slot, allowing the flywheel to get turned and throw my timing marks way off. Picked it up a little in the slot, timed it according to the t again now that it was in the correct position, and it turned over as it should and cranked right up.

Now I get to wait on my clutch side case gasket that was missing from the cometic gasket set to get here. I'm pretty sure they put a wrong gasket in my kit instead of it...pretty frustrating but I have one ordered at the dealership, hopefully it'll be here quick.

Glad I got it figured out, I was pretty worried for a little bit haha. Good thing I turned it over by hand first instead of just hitting the start button, coulda been bad.

Glad you got it figured out, nice job diagnosing it.

I was totally thinking flywheel key was sheared or something from your descrip

[400exshop]

I was thinking fly wheel was off or vale's to tight, that is another thing to keep in mind as well.

[WoodTRD]

Yea it had me stumped for a little while, then I figured that was the only possible thing I could think of. Always turn your motor over by hand after tearing it apart, ya never know... I wouldn't be a happy camper if I had tried to start it like that.