Hondabond 4 or HT? And a few more

[WoodTRD]

Got my cylinder and piston back from GT Thunder today and an getting ready to put my bike back together over the weekend. I'll be running a thin head gasket and hondabond for the base. I picked up hondabond 4 from the local dealer, should I use this or try to find some hondabond ht somewhere? I'm thinking the 4 will be ok since it's used to seal cases but just checking.

I'm also changing my timing chain to a crf450 one while I have it apart, I'm guessing it would it be better to change it before I get the cylinder on?

I also have a 42mm 450r carb ready to go on, but I'm not sure if I should swap it on yet or wait till after the break in, not sure if I want to be trying to break in a motor and tune a carb at the same time, but I'd like to go ahead and do it all at once. Any opinions? How hard are they usually to get to run decent? I run a 160 main and 42 pilot in my stock carb, I'm going to a 11:1 416, would bumping the main up to 170 be close? If I try the 450 carb I'm thinking of starting out with a 175 main/52 pilot with it, sound about right? I'm at sea level. Thanks for the input, hopefully I can get it back together over the weekend, gotta try to figure out how to straighten out my header flanges too, they were almost impossible to get off the exhaust studs due to being curved...guess I tightened the nuts a bit too much, yet another lesson learned.

[CJM]

Hondabond HT. Its for high temp sealing applications. Hondabond 4 is just for sealing cases and doesnt ever really dry.

FWIW any good hi-temp silicone sealant should work. I use copper RTV on my exhausts to seal them up.

Timing chain would be easier with the topend off. Hope you got a clutch side cover as well. Might as well inspect the clutch while your in there too.

Id leave the EX carb on there while you break it in. Chances are your gonna need about a 170 main, 52 pilot and 2.5 turns out the air/fuel screw with the R carb.

[WoodTRD]

Good thing I asked, hondabond 4 was the only thing my local dealership had in stock and all the posts I read didn't specify which one...the "semi drying" part had me thinking about it. I have some permatex gasket maker somewhere in the garage, I'll see if I can find it to check what it is before driving a hour to get some ht.

I should be good to go on the gaskets, I ordered a cometic 87mm complete gasket kit with a .027 MLS head gasket, it was cheaper that way than getting a top end kit and the two side gaskets (took the sparks key out too). Picked up a clutch holding tool from RMATV to hopefully make the job easier. Will I be able to pull the clutch solo or is it really a 2 man job? I have an electric impact if that'd make it easier, don't know exactly how tight it's on there but I'd prefer not to use it unless I have to.

I'll leave the ex carb for now and just bump the main up 10 for break in. Thanks for the quick reply.

[CJM]

I use my snap on impact to get it off, just unstake the nut and nail it with the gun and it comes off.

[WoodTRD]

Closest thing the local dealer had was yamabond 5, seemed to be the same stuff but I wasn't sure so I picked up some permatex ultra grey rigid high torque rtv silicone gasket maker from an auto parts store. This stuff (http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm)

That should work right? I just really don't want to get it all back together only to have it leaking at the base and be kicking myself for not just running a base gasket.

[CJM]

I think it will be fine. FWIW this is what I use on my exhaust: http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Copper_Maximum_Temperature_RTV _Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm