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View Full Version : Bypassing Handlebar Controls??



Sniper05
02-20-2012, 08:12 PM
Can i get rid of the factory controls that control the lights and on/off switch? Its a kicker so i dont need a start button, i was gonna use my kill switch in place of the controls, didnt know how to bypass it!

desratt
02-20-2012, 09:10 PM
That's what I did. Use the green then the black with white stipe for kill switch

Sniper05
02-21-2012, 06:38 AM
So I'd say the black is the ground and the green is the cool wire?

J51S
02-22-2012, 04:58 PM
You can get rid of everything and just use you tether for the kill. It really helps removing that hot start crap. Best thing I did.

Sniper05
02-22-2012, 05:16 PM
I have to keep my hot start, it's a kicker! So the wires that are there are black and green! I seen them, do I ground the tether like always and tap the green wire for the coil?

Baileygunns
02-22-2012, 06:12 PM
Put one wire from the tether to ground (ie headlight bracket or a bolt in frame) and tie the other wire to the spade connector on the coil... As for the controls, just unplug them, you don't need to do anything else.

Baileygunns
02-22-2012, 06:19 PM
Here... I made a splice kit like the one that Pro Armor sells with stuff I had in my tool box...
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f348/Baileygunns/Killswitch-1.jpg

This is where you tie it to the coil.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f348/Baileygunns/bike001.jpg

J51S
02-22-2012, 06:26 PM
Sniper05 I have to keep my hot start, it's a kicker!

You don't have to keep it. If your bikes tuned rite it should start first kick all the time, mine does. And you can get rid of the risk of having it fail causing a lean condition, and its one less cable:cool:

but to each is own

DnB_racing
02-22-2012, 06:58 PM
Originally posted by Sniper05
So I'd say the black is the ground and the green is the cool wire? no green is a ground, and black /white stripe is the shunt wire for discharging your capacitors in the cdi

just use the wires like desratt said from the conector from the kill lite switch

one side of the tether goes to the green and the other to black/white stripe

the way I do mine is keep the connector just cut off the wires this way you can just unplug the connector and its still stock harness

Sniper05
02-22-2012, 07:01 PM
Sweet! Thanks guys!!

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 05:07 PM
Well guys I did this the way it says on the last post and no fire! The connector also has a brown and a black wire I assume those are headlightss? I checked em for ground and it has a ground, so I'm lost, that's the only thing I've changed since I've takin it apart! Any help would be appreciated!!

DnB_racing
03-18-2012, 05:22 PM
Originally posted by Sniper05
Well guys I did this the way it says on the last post and no fire! The connector also has a brown and a black wire I assume those are headlightss? I checked em for ground and it has a ground, so I'm lost, that's the only thing I've changed since I've takin it apart! Any help would be appreciated!! the brown is tail lights,and its possible to read resistance to ground through the tail light if its still there..
the black shouldn't have continuity to ground,
both of those wires should be isolated and capped off

make sure your tether is the right one... with the tether wires disconnected .

with the pull cord connected, there should be no continuity between the 2 wires, when you pull the pull cord there should be continuity between the 2 kill switch wires,

i would check the tether first to make sure its operating the way i just mentioned.... open with pull key in place and closed when pulled

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 06:17 PM
Checked the tether and it's good! But I'm not gettin any spark fom the plug? Also should I show a
Ground off the coil? Cause there isn't one!

capecod400ex
03-18-2012, 07:47 PM
I did this saturday. I just unplugged the headlight switch and kill switch. I made a v harness for the coil and plugged my teather kill into that and I got an ASV lever with a hot start built into it. I moved the key and over heat light to the fender.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/bryrylan/Brewster-20120317-00139.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/bryrylan/Brewster-20120317-00140.jpg

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 07:53 PM
I did all that, and it looks great, but I still don't have any spark!

capecod400ex
03-18-2012, 07:56 PM
you kept the key right?

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 08:18 PM
Yea kept the key! I've double checked everything, all the plugs are tight, all my grounds seem to be good! I have a black connector that isn't being used along with a green one! The black one has a green with white tracer and blue with yellow tracer! But there isn't anymore plugs? I'm pretty much lost!

DnB_racing
03-18-2012, 08:24 PM
Originally posted by Sniper05
Yea kept the key! I've double checked everything, all the plugs are tight, all my grounds seem to be good! I have a black connector that isn't being used along with a green one! The black one has a green with white tracer and blue with yellow tracer! But there isn't anymore plugs? I'm pretty much lost! the green with white tracer and blue with yellow tracer goes to your pulse generator... you got your plugs crossed somewhere

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 08:28 PM
I can't find any more plugs? So that's my problem then lol

DnB_racing
03-18-2012, 08:43 PM
Originally posted by Sniper05
I can't find any more plugs? So that's my problem then lol ya ....

you know you made this much harder then it had to be...lol:D

did you do the way Bailey said with the coil wire split or did you just unplug the light and use those wires?

I dont like splicing in the main harness, or coil wire so I always splice the sub harness,with nonisulated but splices and heat shrink or solder,

for tether I just cut the light switch off and use the blk/whit and the green wire and its done, then I insulate the blk and brown,

instead of using ugly commercial stakeons and cutting into the high voltage coil wire and making a point of possible failure from moisture or loose stakeon connection, just not a way I like to do it, the coil wire already has a purpose and that's to supply the coil with very high voltage, I dont like adding the additional voltage drop from any other wires, or loose connections, that could add resistance

alot of people do this method with no issues,but I think it looks hacked and adds a needless splice in the most important important wire on the whole quad

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 08:48 PM
I did it just he told me, I used the green for my ground and the black with white tracer for my interrupter! And I used the factory connector so all I have to do is unplug it! I taped off and heat shrinked the brown black! But I can't find the male end to the plug u said was the problem? I've looked all over lol. Either I'm extremely blind or there's something missing lol

DnB_racing
03-18-2012, 08:58 PM
sitting on the quad looking forward it should be on the right side just a little right and up from the cdi

Sniper05
03-18-2012, 09:00 PM
Is it just a male plug or an actual device it plugs into? The part I have is the female end!

DnB_racing
03-18-2012, 09:10 PM
it should just plug into a connector that is atached to the front frame on the right hand side when sitting on the quad.

the thing that might be throwing you off is the green with white trace changes to just green on the other side of the connector

Sniper05
03-19-2012, 03:12 AM
There has to be a male end that goes into this female end! I've looked all over? This is crazy lol
http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy278/sniper05/e121eb2d.jpg

Sniper05
03-19-2012, 02:23 PM
Bump

desratt
03-20-2012, 11:59 AM
coil must be grounded to the frame. is it?