Laegers T-Pin brass bushings

[matt250r21]

Anybody got any extra new ones for sale or has anyone found a cheaper alternative with the same quality? I think a few guys on here were making them a while back. I need 12 of these bushings and at $12 a pop its just a stupid price from Laeger.

[Langbolt]

12 ???

You need the ones in the A-Arms that bolt to the Frame ?

Or the ones that are in the Spindle that support the tie-rod mount ?

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=460593

Any bushing supplier will have these for $1 ea

I use the SAE 841 Bronze - part#FF707-2 - Bunting Mfgr

I think Laeger charges $12ea because they machine a groove in the end for an o-ring.

If you have it sealed with waterproof grease...the water won't get in.


:devil:

[matt250r21]

Yep, need 12 of the brass ones. I've got 3 T-pin stems and all of them are sloppy. Each stem take 4 brass bushings.

[Higgy87TRX425]

Matt250r21: So you've got 3 T-Pin stems. I'm looking for a longer stem on for my LRD Project. I've got a Laeger Pro-trax Full T-Pin frontend that I'm running, however I'm looking for a +2 or +3 for the project. I can't seem to find one. Anychance you've got one of these longer stems, that you're willing to part with or trade? The LRD Attitude chassis that I'm running is a stock replacement chassis. So I'm assuming that the stem that I currently have is stock length, but I can measure it. I probably should anyway just to see what I'm starting with? Well let me know?
Thanks Higgy

[matt250r21]

All my stems are stock length. Not sure if Laeger ever made a +3 stem. I know for sure he made +1s for the MX guys who wanted to run the lower profile MX bars.

[Higgy87TRX425]

Yeah thats what I'm running is a set of Dirtbike bars. So I was thinking at least +2? I know that they make +3's because its on their website and I called. I just didn't wanna pony up the $500 for an all brand new one!! I guess their only $300 if you remove those ever expensive lower assemblies the whole connection with the bearings/bushing whatever its got in down there is $100 each for those!!! I still didn't wanna spend $300 if I didn't have too! I figure I could cut and lengthen the one I have and get it rechromed for cheaper then that!! Just thought that I'd ask, you never know and I'm never afraid to ask.
Thanks Higgy!

[matt250r21]

I was under the impression that Laegers was not making the true pro trax stem anymore. I thought all their new T-pin setups came with the standard style stem now.

[croat1]

hey matt:
i have a few to help you out. do you need all 12 right now?
i also have some mono ball bushings but troybilt gets the first few sets.

email me and we can discuss specifics. my email is:
joseph.ivanac@att.net


about the protrax stem: you are correct that laeger is no longer making true protrax stems

[matt250r21]

Croat1

Sent you an email. Thanks for your help.

[croat1]

replied

[matt250r21]

Joe,

Money sent.

Thank you.

[laeger400]

If those are the bushings that came from me they are not brass. They are abronze. Brass bushings suck. Lol. I had those made out of oil impregnated bronze they self lubricate as they heat causing them to last much longer. By the way Joe it figures I sell my last bushings to you and now I own a freaking full laeger R. Now I gotta make some more unless you want to make them:)

[croat1]

yes jerry those were yours. i only sold 4 pcs. you are 100% correct about bushing made of brass...they do not work. for this application they have to be made of a brearing bronze like you stated these are.

no worries jerry more are being made. also we have to get together on the "other" project. i sent you a PM.

[Higgy87TRX425]

I have a full Laeger T-pin set-up and I'm sure that I'll be needing some replacement bushings and monoballs, just so make sure that everything is working perfectly. I a have loose monoball on the front right side where the top A-arm monball is connectted. So I could use that too. So let me know who I need to get in touch with to replace that monoball and buy an evtra set of the bushing. I also hear from Laeger that the tierod bushings/bearings that connect to the tierods on at the base of the stem are $100 each. I'm thinking of putting on a longer stem at least +2 so I'll have to remove those bearings so save them. However, I may need to replace them. So I'd be looking for an other route to save some money if I can get them cheaper elsewhere
???? Please let me know when you get a chance?
Thanks Higgy

[matt250r21]

Higgy,

I read thru your post a few times trying to figure out what bearings or bushings on the stem you are talking about that Laeger wants $100 each for. Are you talking about the tie rod clevises that ride on the bronze bushings? Those are the only things on the bottom of the t-pin stem that I could think Laegers would want $100 each for.

[Langbolt]

Higgy,

Do you know the Dimensions of the bushing you need ?

It's not any of these is it ?

[danhung11]

I think Keith is referencing the clevis's, which are $100 each through Scott. The new ones are either moly or Teflon coated. I'm still doing some research on another source. The new Laeger pricing is like computer software, where he belongs.

[laeger400]

Originally posted by danhung11
I think Keith is referencing the clevis's, which are $100 each through Scott. The new ones are either moly or Teflon coated. I'm still doing some research on another source. The new Laeger pricing is like computer software, where he belongs.

Dan give me a call when you get a chance today.

Thanks Jerry

[Higgy87TRX425]

Langbolt, Matt250r21;
I'm not sure of the dimensions because I just wanted buy an extra set incase I wanna redo them sometime becuase I'm sure that I'll eventually need it for what I've been reading! As for the $100 part I couldn't remember the name of. I think that you're correct as Dan pointed out its the clevis and yeah $100 a pop!! OUCCCH!!
So I'm assuming that there's different compentents for different years of the pro-trax and T-pin set up?? I'm just trying to learn as much as I can about this frontend on my bike!! then find out what year or model setup that I have I know that it came with the PRO-TRAX dogbone! I hear that these T-Pin frontends need alot of maintaince and can be pretty finicky?? Any info would be appreciated!
I was just looking at the part breakdown at the top of the page and it looks like I'll need the top monoball bearing IKO-SBB-10 for sure. One side is bad the other seem tight. Right now I just wanna get it together. Unless it needs a full rebuild and then I'll do it all at once. So I probably won't have to do it for a long time after that, with the amount of ridding I've been doing lately! Plus my drivers license is in jepordy right now!! I won't bore you'll with as long drawn out story, but it involves my prescription meds taken as required, that I've been on for 4 years!!! Needless to say alot of dough is going to my attorney! Dam attorney's you love them when you get off, but I sure hate paying a bill that could be going to a bike, boat, or in this case down payment on a house, OUUUCHH!! LOL!
Thanks Higgy!

[laeger400]

The new clevises are cast stainless pieces and the old ones are machined pieces with some trick stuff done to them. I know the exact process to make the clevises but I cannot let the cat out of the bag. Also mark laeger used bronze bushings for the protrax set up. Scott the new guy seems to be cutting corners by casting the clevises and using brass bushings. Not good IMO.

[matt250r21]

Higgy,

The only real differences between the t-pins that I know of is at one point the spindles were machined to use 400EX calipers instead of the better imo 250R calipers and the newest version dose not have the t- pin steering stem. As far as durability mine seem to get a little sloop in them and then thats it, never seem to get worse. I can't see how you would need new clevises unless your wore thru the bronze bushing and started rubbing steel on steel.

[laeger400]

The new clevises and brass bushings will wear quickly. The old stuff is as matt said. They will wear in a bit and that's it. As for steel on steel only place that could happen would be the steering stem. As long as you keep up on the bronze bushings the old clevises will last pretty much forever.

[Higgy87TRX425]

Laeger400, Matt250r21,
I believe that I have the old stlye because I have to use the 250r brakes on the front and the only reason that I was worried about the clevises was because I was thinking of going with a longer stem. Laeger said that they would make me one, for $500 with the clevises installed or $300 if I reuse my old clevises. Which I think are still in good shape? I don't know how hard its going to be to get the old ones out so I was thinking that I might just want replace them too. To avoid having to take out the old ones and risk ruining them! So if I can find new clevises cheaper then I would probably just go that route to avoid any issues? Plus that would give me an extra stem. If they were closer to $50 each I'd probably jump on them!! We'll just have to see what happens when I try and take them apart? Thanks for the info and I'm anxious to see what they cost at a discounted rate? If you guys know where to find them cheaper let a brother know????
Thanks Higgy out, Goodnight!!

[matt250r21]

Higgy,

The clevises are held on with a 10mm flange nut (14mm socket). Loosen the nut and the clevis will slide right out of the stem. Trying to press out the bronze bushing that they ride on will most likely destroy the bushings. Get with Laeger400 and Croat1 on better then new style Laegers replacement bronze bushings.

[Langbolt]

Oh...you mean this thing!

:devil:

[laeger400]

Originally posted by Langbolt
Oh...you mean this thing!

:devil:

Yes the clevis.

[Higgy87TRX425]

Matt250r21, Langbolt,
Yeah thats the part that I was talking about. I haven't really checked it yet, aside from the installation and it felt fine. I'll have to get into it this weekend and see what kinda of condition its in. Then depending on how it feels it may have to rebuild it. If I do one I might as well do all of them, that way I don't have to worry. Thanks for the heads up guys!
Thanks Higgy

[laeger400]

I would be interested in the old worn out clevises that you all don't need. If you got some that are worn out pm me.

Thanks Jerry

Oh yeah no worn out new ones. They have to be originals.

[cdrookie]

it's fairly easy to chuck up a worn out clevis in a lathe and take a few thousandths off, then make a new bushing, or have one made.

[laeger400]

Yes it is but that isnt what I'm doing. Plus then you have to under size every bronze bushing. I'm not really able to say what the deal is but chucking them up in the lathe isn't my plan. My plan is to recondition the old clevises back to factory specs. I need to get my hands on some olds ones that are worn out to get the process down pat and actually get the cost figured out.

Thanks Jerry

[cdrookie]

i'm jus sayin that's an option to a worn clevis. spindle-tierod clevis was worn on my old bike and did that. real cheap fix if you have access to a lathe and some stock.

[matt250r21]

Laeger400,

Contact Danhung11, if I remember right he was replacing his t-pin clevises.

I'm just curious how are the old style steel clevises wearing out. You would think that the softer bronze bushing would go first. At least that is what happened to mine. I could be wrong though, as soon as my new bushing come in we will find out.

[cdrookie]

the softer material will wear faster but if there's excessive clearance mud/dirt/dust will get in and wear both materials.

[danhung11]

Jerry and I have been in touch, I plan to send him one of my old clevis(s). I also followed up with my contact back home regarding another source for re-manufacturing this clevis - haven't heard from him in almost a year and plan to visit his shop on President's Day. Thing is, I don't want to buy $5k worth of clevis(s), let alone a set of $5k NOS fenders. :D Bahahaha! I will keep everyone posted as to what I find out.

It's threads like this that keep our dinosaurs alive. :p

[laeger400]

You gotta take into consideration that most of the original clevises are 10-15 yrs old. That's a pretty good run. If you replace the old bronze bushings with the brass ones they will wear faster. If the clevis is under cut at all it will wear the bronze and brass bushings out quickly. The fit on these is only like 1/2-1 thousands. If there is room for grease then they are to loose. You have to keep fresh o-rings and keep the clevises tight.

[bigmatt61]

I thought when I talked to Mark last time he told me he ordered these (clevis's) and then machined them to the size he wanted. Ie; turned them down and burnished them to fit the bushings he had already cut and grooved.
My understanding was each from end was "hand" manufactured. Not necessarily mass produced but also not individualy hand made either.

Matt

[laeger400]

You can't find 4340 clevises. They started out hand made on manuel mill and lathe then made on cnc. But there are still more processes to complete them. I can't let the cat out of the bag. If you guys know what's up and want to say you can. I promised not to say on a public forum.

[matt250r21]

Will I just finished installing the bronze bushing in my T pin stem and I'm happy to say my front end is tight again. Any wear that are on my clevises must be almost zero, I can fill the cavity between the bushings with grease thru the zerk fitting and then that is it. Nothing makes it way out between the bushing and clevis. I'd like to thank Croat1 for selling me the bushings and Laeger400 for making these awesome parts. It's surprising how much work had to go into making these parts, excellent attention to detail.

Now I just need 8 more and maybe some spares guys.

[laeger400]

Thanks dude all I can say is there is a small group of us that are pulling together to make sure we have quality replacement parts that will meet the standards of mark laeger.

[deathman53]

what do you want for everything to rebuild a t-pin?

[deathman53]

I am getting the bunting bearings and having a machine shop put the groove in it for the o-ring. I had to get 25, so I will have extra left over if anybody needs them. Does it really need the groove? I found the others mbx 1725z is $72, sbb-10 is $15, the other bearing is not showing a price. I placed a quote on the price for it.