Valve checking issue

[Stickman400]

Ok, I went to check my valves on my wheeler earlier just to make sure they are in spec before I started throwing on the tank and plastic and everything and I can't seem to get it on the correct stroke to set them. I took the timing caps and valve caps off, put it on the T and checked for a slight wiggle and they didn't move. I turned it over once to the T again, checked, and they still didn't move. My guess is I made them a little too tight the last time I checked them. So how do I check them and know I'm on the right stroke to do it if I don't have play in them no matter how many times I turn it over?

[Baileygunns]

Put something in the spark plug whole and watch it move up to top dead center as you move the crank. Make sure you don't let what ever you put in there get jammed and do any damage... Wih that said, I have used a screw driver.

[Stickman400]

I know its at TDC, I need to know what stroke its on. The exhaust valves are open every time I crank it over to the T mark, so that would mean its on the exhaust stroke, which I dont want to be on. But since its opening them every time I put it on the T what is going on?

[CJM]

When you assembled the engine your sure you set the cam gear in place with the T mark already lined up with the cam lobes facing down..right?

I had a similar issue awhile back, I just couldnt get it to true TDC. I would crank the engine over to the left with a ratchet and the rockers would still be tight and not wiggly like they should be.

Finally said F it, took it for a small ride with just the bare stuff on it. Let it cool off and tried again with success..

[Stickman400]

WAAAAY back when I did the rebuild I set it right, and it started right up with no problem. I adjusted the valves probably 2 times since then and I fear I may have gotten them too tight. It ran fine the day I pulled it into the shed to do the tear down for my other thread. Does it matter what stroke the engine is on when you set them? The only thing I can think of is backing one of the valves off 1/4 turn and then cycle it over a few times and see if it gets loose on one of the turns.

[DR_]

You have to check on the compression stroke. The way to tell between the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke is to check the rocker arms for slack. If there is no slack then you are on the exhaust and you need to rotate it around one full turn.

[dxcody]

Originally posted by DR_
You have to check on the compression stroke. The way to tell between the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke is to check the rocker arms for slack. If there is no slack then you are on the exhaust and you need to rotate it around one full turn.

he already did that... as stated above and the rocker arms are always tight is what he is saying.

I would do like u said stickman and loosin them up 1/2 turn or so, turn it over a few times and see what happens.

[Stickman400]

I got it pieced together and got it to start up. Ran fine, just like the day I started tearing it down. I let it run 5 minutes and turned it off. I'm gunna let it sit over night to cool off and then check them in the morning. If that don't work then I'll do my other method.

[Stickman400]

Does anyone on here torque the locknut on the valve tappet adjuster? Or do you just hand tighten them?

[audioworks04]

Hand tightening is fine, just be careful not to overtighten.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Stickman400
Does anyone on here torque the locknut on the valve tappet adjuster? Or do you just hand tighten them?

Straight out of the Honda service manual:

Valve adjusting lock nut: 17 lb-ft

I've honestly never used the torque value for it though. I always cinch the nut down tight, but don't crank on it to the point of stripping the threads.

How are you supposed to hold the screw adjuster with a screwdriver if you have a torque wrench on the nut? I suppose you could tighten the nut a little first then put a torque wrench on it, but I don't trust that the screw adjuster won't move out of adjustment.

[Stickman400]

The reason I ask is because I looked in my service manual and saw that, but torqued it down and stripped the threads on the adjuster. So I didnt want to do that again. Just wanted to see if anyone else tried torquing them.

[CJM]

How hard did you tighten it if you stripped the threads??? Ive done it dozens of times and never ran into that problem.

[Stickman400]

I torqued it to 17lb/ft, but I think the locknut wasn't tight enough and it backed all the way out and then started crossthreading it back on with the torque wrench.

[smorris1]

I have done it with no problems as well. I tighten the screw by hand first then I use the torque wrench to make sure its to spec.

[Stickman400]

I got a set of these before I started my tear down: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/17138/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Adjustment-Wrench-Set/MOTION+PRO+TAPPET+ADJUSTER I'm hoping they'll make it easier to adjust them. I also got this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/23985/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Feeler-Gauge/MOTION+PRO+TAPPET+AADJUSTER in .004-.005 size to help also.

[dxcody]

I honestly never have torqued those according to specs. I put put a light dab of blue loc-tite on it and fasten it down.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Stickman400
I got a set of these before I started my tear down: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/17138/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Adjustment-Wrench-Set/MOTION+PRO+TAPPET+ADJUSTER I'm hoping they'll make it easier to adjust them. I also got this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/23985/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Feeler-Gauge/MOTION+PRO+TAPPET+AADJUSTER in .004-.005 size to help also.

I have both of those Motion Pro tools and they make the job a lot easier. The handles on the wrenches are the perfect length to tighten the lock nut down sufficiently without the fear of stripping it. The feeler gauge is also a "must have" for a 400EX IMO. Way easier to deal with than traditional feelers.

[CJM]

FWIW I use standard feeler gauges (did buy the MP one for the heck of it the other day tho-I mean the price is so low why not!) and I use a flathead and a 4" 10mm wrench. Same way I been doing it all along for eons now.

[Stickman400]

Well I went out and they wiggled on the second crank over. I guess running it helps them loosen up or something. It has been sitting there for 2 months without being ran though, that may have had something to do with it. I think the reason they stripped is because that torque wrench I have isn't the greatest. It's a craftsman 3/8" drive. I tried using my other 1/2" drive craftsman torque wrench and it popped way sooner than my 3/8" drive did. Kinda odd.

[CJM]

Sounds to me like your wrench is FUBAR.

[Stickman400]

I know. I wonder if I can take it to Sears and exchange it for another without anything being visible wrong with it.

[dxcody]

Originally posted by Stickman400
I know. I wonder if I can take it to Sears and exchange it for another without anything being visible wrong with it.

put it in the vise and break that fu**** in half and tell them it just snapped.

[Baileygunns]

They should be able to test it... Might even be able to recalibrate it.

[Reece616]

I think craftsman torque wrenches are only under warranty for 90 days.