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View Full Version : Extended front hubs?? Do they make them?



Thumpin440ex
12-05-2011, 10:19 PM
I have did a half ***** search, but have not came up with nothing.. I have a rear axle otw that is wider then stock, do not want to change my a arms.. So do they make them for the front?? I have seen spacers, but I do not like the idea, IMO would be like half *****ing it.. Thanks



John

250x_kyle
12-05-2011, 10:43 PM
there really wouldnt be a difference in wheel spacers and extended front hubs same concept instead of being a bolt on it would just be solid metal. just save up and change the aarms out.

01boneless
12-05-2011, 10:44 PM
they dont they make a block style spacer that is real strong imho. i had stud spacers on my ex and nobody agreed with them and still dont and WONT. i hucked 60 ft table tops and never even replaced a bearing or stud. That being said everyone will tell you not to run them and get arms. up to you the block style are way stronger than the stud style.

Thumpin440ex
12-05-2011, 10:45 PM
I do not want to change arms, I like them.. The spacers are just that, spacers, like I said would be a short cut for me.. If the hubs are avail, I would buy them, but do they make them.. The axle is adjustable, 2-4. I am going to pull the spacers out to get it as close to stock width as possible( 90% trail ride)


John

Thumpin440ex
12-05-2011, 10:48 PM
Well that freaking sucks.. WTH do they make back ones that are, not fronts?? LOL I guess I will have to look into the block spacers.. :(


John

atvrider13
12-05-2011, 10:58 PM
I have never seen front wider hubs either. I know what u mean about the spacers. Try getting a different offset front rim to make your quad a lil wider in the front . Like a 2inch inside offset and 3 inch outside offset or 1 inch inside offset and 4 inch outside offset. Stock is 3inch inside 2inch outside i think. Hope this helps.

Thumpin440ex
12-05-2011, 11:05 PM
Yes the rim offest has def crossed my mind, in fact that will prob be the route I go.. Thanks for the info..



John

250x_kyle
12-06-2011, 09:38 AM
Originally posted by 01boneless
they dont they make a block style spacer that is real strong imho. i had stud spacers on my ex and nobody agreed with them and still dont and WONT. i hucked 60 ft table tops and never even replaced a bearing or stud. That being said everyone will tell you not to run them and get arms. up to you the block style are way stronger than the stud style.

i will have to see if i can get a picture drawn up in solidworks to show the motion and how over stock things can fatigue. unlike changing the aarms wich changes shock angle, mounting locations, and is extended tubing before you get to the angle of the spindle.

the stress caused by this stuff will not be an immediate change but if gone without notice can end up bad wich is the horror stories everyone hears.

01boneless
12-06-2011, 09:47 AM
^^^ dude i have heard i all befor dont bother

250x_kyle
12-06-2011, 11:02 AM
Originally posted by 01boneless
^^^ dude i have heard i all befor dont bother

i guess a machining and engineering background means nothing huh ?

Baileygunns
12-06-2011, 11:17 AM
It's going to handle like s h i t... Keep it stock or get wider arms.

There is a reason people go with a +3 arm and a 4/1 offset rim.. It handles better. You want the wheel to pivot as close to center as possible and over the ball joints. Adding spacers or flipping rims puts the center of the rim to far away from the pivot point causing hard steering issues.

You are changing the radius of the wheel turn and the pivot point causing fatigue and undue stress on components and yourself.

Take a wheel in the garage and turn it so that the wheel pivots on the tread (center of tire)... Then take that same wheel and attach it to a 2x4 or broom stick and pivot it from the opposite end of the stick... Think of how much more stress/energy is involved to get that wheel to move. The wheel actually has to move in a radius to get the bike to turn. It's kind of hard to type and explain but I hope you get what I'm saying... If you were in front of me I could show you and make you a believer, lol...

Find a cheap set of used standard travel arms. You can run +2 in the woods.. I do it every time I ride.. So will my Wife once her bike is done.. Even if you were to race GNCC, I believe the trails have to be a minimum of 50" wide. Granted widening the bike will make it tighter but adding the extra width and handling of a +2 front end to an "all around" bike is well worth the very few times you will encounter super tight trails.

250x_kyle
12-06-2011, 11:20 AM
Originally posted by Baileygunns
It's going to handle like s h i t... Keep it stock or get wider arms.

There is a reason people go with a +3 arm and a 4/1 offset rim.. It handles better. You want the wheel to pivot as close to center as possible and over the ball joints. Adding spacers or flipping rims puts the center of the rim to far away from the pivot point causing hard steering issues.

You are changing the radius of the wheel turn and the pivot point causing fatigue and undue stress on components and yourself.

Take a wheel in the garage and turn it so that the wheel pivots on the tread (center of tire)... Then take that same wheel and attach it to a 2x4 or broom stick and pivot it from the opposite end of the stick... Think of how much more stress/energy is involved to get that wheel to move. The wheel actually has to move in a radius to get the bike to turn. It's kind of hard to type and explain but I hope you get what I'm saying... If you were in front of me I could show you and make you a believer, lol...

Find a cheap set of used standard travel arms. You can run +2 in the woods.. I do it every time I ride.. So will my Wife once her bike is done.. Even if you were to race GNCC, I believe the trails have to be a minimum of 50" wide. Granted widening the bike will make it tighter but adding the extra width and handling of a +2 front end to an "all around" bike is well worth the very few times you will encounter super tight trails.

exactly what i was trying to get at but you know how 13 year olds are.

Thumpin440ex
12-06-2011, 12:02 PM
I will just be keeping the stock arms. I didn't mean for the thread to be a huge pissing match. I do agree with the and understand the stressing issue. I never was going to run a spacers. Still might run a slightly off set wheel though. Thanks


John

01boneless
12-06-2011, 12:07 PM
Originally posted by 250x_kyle
exactly what i was trying to get at but you know how 13 year olds are.

dude just shut up there is 1000000 thread on this im not 13 im 15 does it matter. i stated everyone will say not to use spacers. i wasent realy talking to you so dont get your brain steaming.and yay its hard on the front end componets yeah god kills a kitten everytime you run them i have killed two myself :devil: so just move on and dont lose any sleep. AND to the op thumpin i would just look at wider offsent rims it shouldent be no more than 75 per rim on rockymountainatv.com

Baileygunns
12-06-2011, 12:42 PM
I'm not sure there is a wheel that is more offset then the stock 3/2... Flipping the rims will create the same scenario as the spacers. You could always find an XC arm and be in the middle with a +1 front end...

3/2 is 3" of lip on the inside and 2" on the outside... 4/1 would be 4 on the inside and 1 on the out side... The rim is only 5" wide so there isn't to much room for any other offset combo.. (You may already know what the numbers meant but just in case)

Better suspension will lower the ride height and widen the front because of the radius the arms travel... The knuckles are at their widest point from each other when the arms are parallel with the ground..

There's a few options and pros and cons to each. You'll have to juggle function over cost and figure out what works best for you..




Oh and Boneless... I had no idea you were 15... But it all makes sense now.

01boneless
12-06-2011, 05:43 PM
lol hate on the young generation haha :devil: