some questions

[Castor-426ex]

ive got my motor torn apart for the 416/426 kit i dunno hehe

it is apart i have some questions

do i need to replace the camshaft bearings?
these should be a relatively small part to replace at a small cost but i was wondering if the bearings were ever prone to fail?

on reassembly..what assembly lube should i use??..i am going with a hotcam...and i have heard both ends of the story to use and not to use a grease upon break in..wtf help me do i or dont I? if so what exact stuff do i need?

also upon removing the flange from the stock cam...whats the best method of removal? the ears on the flange look really brittle...and i dont really want to get another one but I may...

ive got more questions..but ill save them for later:D

[YZROOSTINYA]

put the cam in the freezer and DO NOT PRESS ON THE EARS.

just pour oil all over the valve train when you put it back together.

the cam bearings should be AOK. if there is ANY roughness when rolling then replace them. but if thay have less than 400 hours on and change your oil regularly they should be fine. sealed side away from motor.

you can use assembly lube but i used oil, it was easier and i filled the head with it after putting the valve cover on. this will be sufficiant enough.

you need to press the flange off and remove the spring and pin from the head. becareful taking the broach off.

[Castor-426ex]

the broach? i removed the pin and spring....and the head is off...
thanks for the help...i dont think i dropped anything in the motor..lol

if so ill fish it out with a magnet...lmao any other pointers?

so the best way to get the flange of the stock cam...is to press it off??

ok thnx

[speedjunkie]

USE A PRESS. I tried to cheat and use a gear puller and all I did was screw myself 2 days before we were leaving for the dunes. Just take it to your local machine shop. Mine didn't charge me anything! If you do end up breaking the flange get the new one from service honda, they are only about $20.00. I would use an assy. lube. It sticks to the metal better and provides better protection for your new cam. Only use a NON-MOLY type lube! Otherwise it can damage your clutch pack. Hope I helped:ermm:

[YZROOSTINYA]

broach is the corret name for the flange, thats all.

severla heat cycles is the only other advise

[YZROOSTINYA]

READ FROM THE BOTTOM UP. TONY FROM HOTCAM

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

John,

Thanks for the reply!!! I know this cam works good especially on slightly larger bores where the additional displacement and compression makes up for the loss that the cam has on a stock bore and compression motor.

Keep after it! I'm REALLY happy that you like it.

Thanks again.

Tony Tice
(515) 402-8005 x104


-----Original Message-----
From: Palmer, John [mailto:JPalmer@gosafeguard.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:46 AM
To: Tony Tice
Subject: RE: cam?


Tony,

I have the motor all back together and have about 7.6 hours on it if
I remem correctly. I broke it in for 2 sessions of 10 mins(2 heat cycles) at
above 3000rpm(my hour meter has a tach). Then I gradually increased the rpms
and throttle for the next 1.2 hours, Each 10 mins. I would shut the quad
down and let it cool completely. So, after about 1.5 hours I was pretty much
fully broken in, and after about 4 hours I was riding it full out. This cam
plain F-ING ROCKS!! It pulls so much harder in the mid and the top, plus I
did not loose any down low. I was hitting some nice jumps and odd gaps that
before I know I would have been weary about. I appreciate all your help and
am totally satified with the results, I have been spreading the word.

My mods:
JE 416 piston @ 10.8:1
stage 2 HotCam
full WB e-series pro meg w/12 dics
removed choke with stock carb
42 pilot(38 stock)
4th clip down on stock needle(3rd stock)
170 main(148 stock)
airbox vents
stock valves, no porting

I think I am little rich and will prob go back to the 168 main. I am most
likely gonna do some head porting next year and new stainless valves with
some HD springs and ti retainers along with a HD cam chain.

Thanks again Tony,

John Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Tice [mailto:ttice@PivotWorks.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 1:45 PM
To: Palmer, John
Subject: RE: cam?


John,

The flange (technically called a broach) is the piece from the stock Honda
camshaft that holds the cam sprocket is not a part of the Hot Cam. When it
breaks it's because someone did not press it off or on correctly and used
the "ears" of the broach to press it off or on. There just isn't enough
material in that area of the broach to use it for a press point. You can
however get behind the decompressor and press the whole lot off together.

Too bad that this guy had that problem but, when a broach breaks or bends,
it has NOTHING to do directly with the Hot Cams, it's the person assembling
them.

Thanks for making me aware of this situation.

Tony Tice
(515) 402-8005 x104


-----Original Message-----
From: Palmer, John [mailto:JPalmer@gosafeguard.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:01 AM
To: Tony Tice
Subject: RE: cam?


I just recvd my cam yesterday, I did choose you guys, ended up going with
the stage 2. I was asking you all those ?'s yesterday on the phone talking
about the coal piles and stuff.

also there has been some concern from some of the people I chat with on
exriders.com about the reliability/quality of hotcams. something happened
with one guys cam where the flange was distorted and his cam chain snapped.
If you look under "forums","mechanical", "powertrain" and go few pages back
you will see the post.

heres the link
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27416&highlight=hotca
m


Alot of people go to this site and I think you should respond as this would
definitly support the positive dealings I have had with you. I will be
posting my opinion of this set up on there when I am done for other people.
I was really worried about going with your cam after this post. I have been
working on bikes for about 13 years and try to evaluate things as much as
possible. If what was posted isn't the case that I feel you should make
people aware of the "real" situation.

Thanks for your help yesterday!

My screen name is YZROOSTINYA

John Palmer


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Tice [mailto:ttice@PivotWorks.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:44 AM
To: Palmer, John
Subject: RE: cam?


Hi John,

Sorry for the delay in our response, we've had problems with our set-up in
the server for support to Hot Cams, holding our mail. We got it repaired
just this morning.

We do away with the decompressor mechanism with our cams. There is enough
"overlap" (technically, the intake valve is open long enough to drop the
cranking compression) that it is not a problem for the machine to start.

Our Stage 2 camshaft is excellent with the 416 motor! For some reason the
that combination of cam, timing, and bore dimension works perfect together.
That set-up is faster than most EX 440s unless they have a ported head and
big valves.

Philly is more than likely 4 days away to be safe.

Thank you for considering Hot Cams.

Tony Tice
(515) 402-8005 x104


-----Original Message-----
From: Palmer, John [mailto:JPalmer@gosafeguard.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 7:17 AM
To: 'support@hotcamsinc.com'
Subject: cam?


do the 400ex cams use the stock decompression assembly?

do you have the stage 1 and 2 in stock? any suggestions or problems? going
to a 416 @ 11:1

if i ordered today when would it arrive to pa near philly
thanks jp