Are stainless steel nuts and bolts plated?

[wilkin250r]

I know most common nuts and bolts are generally zinc-plated steel, mostly for corrosion resistance.

Are stainless steel nuts and bolts plated in any way? I'm sure the main body of the bolt is going to be exactly that, stainless steel. However, is there any type of coating on the bolt for additional corrosion protection, or possibly a plating to improve it's assembly characteristics and keep galling and seizing to a minimum? Or are they truly 100% stainless steel with no coating whatsoever?

[HondaPohl]

There are different stainless alloys. Without getting into a metalurgy discussion, It comes down to how much chromium is in the chemistry. This is what makes it antioxide. Its never going to be 100% stainless. Different alloys are added for different strenghts aswell. As far as a coating, I believe there is none. Hope this answers your question. I work in a Foundry so I know A little bit.

[chucked]

They are not plated, they use grease or another lube to keep them from seizing, but I did learn that using 2 different grades of hardware wont seize as easy.

[wilkin250r]

I need to grind down a few nuts and bolts for some specialty applications. I can't use a normal Grade 5 or grade 8 because I'll grind off the zinc coating and it will rust.

Getting them replated is not an option, there's only going to be a few pieces. I don't even know where to get them replated, and it's not even worth investigating.

If stainless steel is indeed 100% homogenous, no plating, then I can go that route.

[chucked]

They do naturally oxidize, but grinding will make no difference, you will be ok

[FHKracingZ]

Just because you have stainless nuts dosnt mean particles still wont rust in the grooves from cutting or grinding it. We see this all the time in sanitary industry.

Just use regular zinc coated nuts and if you are worried about them put a little galvanizing paste over them when u are done grinding. works wonders.

[Ralph]

What are you using this on? If it is a critical connection then using a different grade fastener will change the amount of torque required to properly tension the bolt, assuming the bolt can still handle the connection.

To answer your question, no, most stainless fasteners are not plated and you can cut them down, however, when you cut the stainless you will likely impregnate the surface with your cutting material which will promote corrosion. I would cut a regular fastener and coat it with something.

Are you having trouble getting what you need off the shelf without having to modify it?

[CJM]

Coat it with grease of some kind, wont corrode at all. gotta recoat it every so often but it works.

[wilkin250r]

Naw, it's rarely ever something critical, it's usually more cosmetic than anything else, but it seems like I'm constantly facing this issue. I always have something stupid I need a little more room, or a little different shape, or something.

At the moment, my latest issue is on my ASV clutch lever. The adjustment screw for setting the reach won't clear the kill switch. The setscrew itself will clear, but the locknut is an acorn nut like 3/4 inch tall.

I figure I could easily get a normal hex nut to use as a locknut, but I want a rounded top so if by chance I do wreck I have very little chance of an exposed setscrew ripping my skin open. I'm just thinking down the road if I have to grind it down, shape it, or whatever, I want the capability, so I think I'll look for a good stainless steel cap nut and my life will be golden any which direction I decide to take.

[Ralph]

Id be shocked if you had trouble finding exactly what you need on McMaster

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nuts/

[destey]

They make all kinds of low profile nuts and specialty bolts.

We use many low profile locknuts here at work and they function very well.

[wilkin250r]

I'm familiar with McMaster, and it looks like they have a open-ended acorn nut, that will work perfectly.

I need the open end to hold the inner screw steady to tighten against. My original plan was to get a stainless cap screw and drill the top end, (which I might still have to do if this ends up being a metric thread).