Routing your clutch cable

[Speed37]

Well my stupid cable thing is sticking cause it was touching the header.. What can i do to get rid of this problem? And this was my first ride on the quad since i bought it 3 1/2 months ago :)

[GTRider256]

What I did was get some of the thick red heater hose from a car and cut it down the middle and put it over the clutch cable and then safety wired it on there and just kept checking it every once in a while. You could also get a longer clutch cable and try and re-route it or wrap the header with some heat wrap. Hope this helps!

[Speed37]

what cable do your think would be long enough? And does anybody have pics of how they routed the cable?

[GTRider256]

I'm not really sure which cable would be long enough maybe someone else can chime in but at the moment my 400ex is in pieces. I had a pro circuit header and I routed it with the stock length clutch cable and used the heater hose with no problem.

[TORO1968]

I struggled with this problem for years and finally found a super easy fix for it. If you take a look at this picture, you can see I secured my clutch cable to the cable routing wire that's part of the upper steering stem bracket.

To do this, you may have to pull up on the clutch cable as you tighten the zip ties to hold it away from the header. For a while I was only running one zip tie with no issues, but I recently added a second one for extra insurance that I wouldn't burn my cable again.

I also put my new clutch cable in a heat protective sleeve I got from Summit Racing just to be sure the radiant heat wouldn't cause any issues either. I think you could get away with the zip tie trick just fine though.

Since I've done all of this, I have not had a single issue, and it's waaay easier and cheaper than buying a longer cable and re-routing it.

[honda400ex2003]

theres a clip on the shroud for the tank that holds it nicely where it needs to go after running through the holder on the motor mount. run it through the holder, the shroud and through the metal clamp at the top and take the slack out of it.

after you get it in the shroud pull the slack out of it toward the top until it is in the middle of the exhaust.

steve

[TORO1968]

That's how mine is run, but I still had issues with my HMF header. With the stock header I never had problems.

[CJM]

1992 250x cables work fine and are long enough to route it down the right side of the frame to the engine.

[Honda#4]

1992 250x cables work fine and are long enough to route it down the right side of the frame to the engine.

This is fine for a stock stem and stock bars however this does not work with a higher stem and lower bars particularly cr low bars, I was thinking it was gonna work since the routing would be different but I guess that ain't the case. I'm thinking of selling it and going back to a stock one.

[MisterGraphic]

I have a +2 stem with a MID CR bend and the 92 250x cable worked fine. I'll check where I routed it

[400exrider707]

You see where the clutch cable enters the motor? You've got a bracket there with two bolts holding it to the case... bend that bracket until the clutch cable is away from the header. All done.

Or a 250X/300EX cable works, you can route it down the frame. I never liked this though, don't see the point in adding a longer cable with more bends, seems like it'd only make it harder to pull.

[TheAwesomehonda]

This is what i have on my ex its a hmf header and cfm oil tank and i have my clutch cable going under both pipes and i have header whap on the clutch cable. It works great and i'm had it on for about 50hour and no moving or burning.

[TheAwesomehonda]

Is this a better one