PDA

View Full Version : replacing clutch



dirtrider420
09-17-2011, 09:25 PM
my clutch gave out and now time for replacing any ideas on a new clutch atleast under a 100 and i dont with ebay had alot of poor problems.looking at tisk clutch but everybody i talked to said no but they race dirt bikes. Thank you

CJM
09-17-2011, 09:27 PM
never heard issues about tusk clutches.

OEM is the only other real cost effective choice imho.

dirtrider420
09-17-2011, 09:30 PM
i called my local honda shop yesterday and they want 175 for the kit.

01boneless
09-17-2011, 09:32 PM
yeah get tusk great clutches !!! and way cheaper than oem

dirtrider420
09-17-2011, 09:37 PM
ok i been looking at them the most and the other owner ran nothing but honda oil in it so whats a good oil mines a 99 with no mods yet except a white bros e-series exhaust

01boneless
09-17-2011, 09:41 PM
rotella 15w 40 works great in these motors and can be had for 13 or 14 bucks a gallon at walmart !:D

kt1148
09-17-2011, 10:15 PM
x2^^ I used to run Honda oil too, but after reading these forums I switched to Rotella 15w40. No problems, great oil!

dxcody
09-18-2011, 03:42 AM
i had a BARNETT clutch kit in my old 416 and was very happy with it (never kicked when i shifted into gear, never slipped, nothin) but i only had the quad for 3 months so, i dont know how long they last. I think they usually run around $100 - $130

I would probably take tusk over a barnett though because IMO anything that says tusk is awesome, and for all i know the BARNETTS could be junk, but like i said i had great success with mine in the short time i used one.

I have had alot of tusk things but never a tusk clutch.

bkb88
09-18-2011, 10:12 AM
Please, stay away from the Tusk clutch plates!! I went that route when I rebuilt my motor and have had nothing but problems with them. The fibers seemed to swell when my motor got up to operating temp and I spent most of my time adjusting my clutch lever to accommodate the lost play. I literally lost all clutch play in my heat race last Saturday and could not use my brakes without killing it towards the final laps.

Needless to say, I put the stock plates that were hardly worn back in yesterday and completely solved my problems. Moral of the story, stick with OEM plates or some other brand like Hinson & Barnett.

dirtrider420
09-18-2011, 10:23 AM
i use mine for trail riding and around the yard.i just rode it around the yard and it started slipping in and out as i pushed the throttle more

bkb88
09-18-2011, 10:35 AM
Your fiber plates are worn out. You can get away with just buying new OEM fibers and taking the glaze off of your old steel plates with some sand paper. I have done this many times with great results.

dirtrider420
09-18-2011, 10:49 AM
ive been told that to alot of your aftermarket clutch kits sell just the fiber disc like prox i thinks the name they said its the same as oem disc for like 40 in dennis kirk or rocky mounatin cant remember

dirtrider420
09-18-2011, 01:26 PM
how about ebc clutch kits

CJM
09-18-2011, 07:14 PM
EBC is usually good stuff. Not sure what the problem with tusks setup but thats your call.

In all honesty-remember its a honda and you know the OEM stuff is good with them

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 05:29 PM
how about ebc clutch kit and how fiber disc are in the clutch basket

Thumpin440ex
09-19-2011, 06:22 PM
Have heard good of ebc set ups, also on tusk clutches, however I have no first hand exp as i am not running either.. The oil that is ran can also cause issues with the clutch plates.. I use rotella, imo is great oil..



John

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 06:28 PM
i found a website thats ebc clutch kits are cheaper then rocky mountain and dennis kirk called bikebandit.com and for rotella oil i was told to stay away from it with the wet clutchs

Thumpin440ex
09-19-2011, 06:30 PM
Hmm not sure where you heard about the oil, but I would say most on here run it..

John

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 06:32 PM
the local shop that works on quads and bikes here in eastern nc

CJM
09-19-2011, 08:37 PM
Dozens of us use rotella 15w-40, no issues ever.

The local shop can claim whatever they want, so long as it doesnt have friction modifiers in it and isnt "energy conserving" its fine.

Thumpin440ex
09-19-2011, 08:48 PM
I would be willing to bet they also do not sell that oil. But prob some 15$ a quart oil that they insist you run.. All in all just like CJM said, as long as it is DINO style oil, has no modifiers in it, it is great stuff..


John

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 08:55 PM
he works on alot of 2stroke bike and quads for racing said it wont good on wet clutchs

01boneless
09-19-2011, 08:59 PM
your local shop is dumb its the best oil and works wonders in the ex there just trying to sell you the high stuff inho:devil:

Thumpin440ex
09-19-2011, 09:02 PM
Rite from rotella/shell.. +++++ people running it.. ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 and ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 are universal oils, meeting needs of many 4-stroke gasoline as well as most diesel engines. They have performance credentials (API Service Categories SL and CI-4 & CI-4 PLUS) for lubricating both kinds of engines. Consequently, ROTELLA T can be a good choice for four-stroke motorcycle/ATV engines. It's best to consult your owner's manual for recommended oil quality. If your engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting any of these API Service Categories; CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 & CI-4 PLUS, and/or SH, SJ, and SL, or any earlier but obsolete category, then ROTELLA T may be a good choice. ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle/ATV use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus. One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements. Part of the JASO requirement limits ash content to 1.2%. Ash content of ROTELLA T exceeds this limit. Oil ash contributes to combustion chamber and spark plug deposits.

Do a search on google, check out the thousands ++++++ running it.. Not to argue, but it is absolutely fine to run if it has no modifiers in it..


John

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 09:03 PM
thats what i been thinking he mainly a 2stroke builder all he has in his shop is for 2stroke bikes for yamaha,suzki,kawaski. What color bottle does the rotella come in

CJM
09-19-2011, 09:07 PM
White bottle.

dirtrider420
09-19-2011, 09:07 PM
i will give it try and what u use to clean the disc at the end of a white bros exhaust to get rid of the puff of black smoke when u throttle more

01boneless
09-19-2011, 09:08 PM
white bottle

Thumpin440ex
09-19-2011, 10:49 PM
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn232/kingsburry/rotella.jpg

John

dirtrider420
09-20-2011, 06:56 PM
yall think it would be good idea to use the fiber plates in a tusk kits with the stock steel disc and if i dont would i haave to adjust my clutch cable

bkb88
09-20-2011, 07:15 PM
Originally posted by dirtrider420
yall think it would be good idea to use the fiber plates in a tusk kits with the stock steel disc and if i dont would i haave to adjust my clutch cable

The steel plates had nothing to do with my clutch issue, it was the fiber (friction) plates. I may just received a bad clutch kit from the start. I wouldn't ever try them again based on my experience.

dirtrider420
09-20-2011, 07:33 PM
maybe so i been reading up on them and alot of people said good just not for the springs imma try there kit let them soak all night

dirtrider420
09-29-2011, 05:02 PM
i got my new clutch in today and i rode the quad for a minute or so and i loosen cable up at handle bar and it started slipping alittle bit but not like before

dirtrider420
09-29-2011, 05:27 PM
i havent put new clutch in yet

Stickman400
09-29-2011, 05:37 PM
Originally posted by dirtrider420
i havent put new clutch in yet That's prolly just because the engine is cold, it'll start slipping again when it's hot.

dirtrider420
09-29-2011, 05:40 PM
ok do u soak fiber and steel plates or just fiber

Stickman400
09-29-2011, 05:45 PM
You don't really need to, but everyone says it helps. I soak my fibers only for 24 hours. I don't think it does anything soaking the steels. Make sure you space them out while they're soaking in the oil and don't just throw them in stacked on top of each other.

dirtrider420
09-29-2011, 05:50 PM
thats what i was going to do but im stuck between oils honda lube or rotella

Stickman400
09-29-2011, 06:01 PM
I'd just do whichever you're planning on using for engine oil. That way they are already coated in the same thing they are gunna be soaking in inside the engine.

CJM
09-29-2011, 06:22 PM
Paying for the honda oil is STUPID, damn stuff is like at least 4 bucks a quart. Buy rotella and be happy.

dirtrider420
09-29-2011, 06:25 PM
its 8 for a quart here and 13 for rotella

dirtrider420
09-30-2011, 07:55 PM
alright i got all bolts out side of cover and everything unhooked the lifter is faceing outwards does it need to go further if so do i use pleirs to turn it while pullin it off

Stickman400
09-30-2011, 08:38 PM
If you're talking about the arm the clutch cable attaches to, it doesn't need to be turned more than half a turn counter-clockwise. Just turn it counter-clockwise abit then try removing the cover while wiggling it, it should come right off.

dirtrider420
09-30-2011, 09:22 PM
i think it never been changed

dirtrider420
10-01-2011, 11:02 AM
thanks for the help guys and that rotella took away my valve ticking and bkb88 i think u did cuz i been trailing riding hard with no problems