Chain and Sprokets?

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Trying to find a Good Chain and Sproket Kit for my 01 400Ex,
Not looking to change off of stock gearing 38T & 15T Does any one know of any good kits?

If possible a Red chain.

[05DodgeDakota]

D.I.D chain is the way to go

[TORO1968]

DID X-ring and RK XW-ring chains are some of the best.

The Primary Drive sprockets from Rocky Mountain are really good considering they're also some of the cheapest available.

If you're looking for longevity, I'd recommend getting a steel rear sprocket instead of an aluminum one. An aluminum rear sprocket is nice for the weight savings, but you'll end up having to change it out several times before you wear out your chain and front sprocket.


My personal setup on my 400 is a RK GB520-EXW chain, Primary Drive front sprocket, and one of the new Pro Taper CS4 steel rear sprockets. Truth be told, I would rather have gotten a DID chain, but I couldn't pass up the deal I got on the RK. So far everything is holding up really well though.

[CJM]

DID 520 X-ring, its sealed MUCH better than most (rk is also good). As for sprockets, Ive used them all-stick with steel. Never had an issue with pro-taper, JT or primary drive..take your pick.

You need to replace everything at once, this way its all fresh and wont wear the chain funny.

After its all said and done your chain should have about 1.25-1.5 inches of free play with you not on the bike.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

I have no choice but to replace them all at once, I kinda ran the others in the ground and got luckey nothing serious happend, I had missing teeth off the back sprocket, and the front one was pretty worn, the chain looked to be good, but I know it had to have problems running on sprokets like that, ( they are all in the trash ) lol not a chance in #ell they would be put back on, going to be buying quite a few parts on the 1st So glad to be geting the Ex back up and going after a year of being apart :)

Thanks for the sproket and chain sugestions ill look in to them :) if anyone else has any ideas or thoughts on good kits let me know ( I was looking at the ebay kits and after about 5 min of looking at them said it isnt worth the risk buying one of them they look so cheap... )

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by CJM
DID 520 X-ring, its sealed MUCH better than most (rk is also good). As for sprockets, Ive used them all-stick with steel. Never had an issue with pro-taper, JT or primary drive..take your pick.

You need to replace everything at once, this way its all fresh and wont wear the chain funny.

After its all said and done your chain should have about 1.25-1.5 inches of free play with you not on the bike.

Does Pro taper make 01 400EX sprokets?

[TORO1968]

They make rear sprockets that fit, but not front ones.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by TORO1968
They make rear sprockets that fit, but not front ones.
Ok thank you.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Does this kit look like a good one and for a Reasonable price?
What Price range should I be looking at for a front, Back and chain kit? Im not looking to buy Cheap quality that I will have to keep buying chains and srokets every month lol but wouldnt mind going as low on price as I could :P


Edit - Might be good if I include the item number off ebay huh >.<
Item number: 120773388329

[powerbomb400]

I use Reginia Gold series and you will not wear the chain out. The rollers wear first but you can do 2 front spocket changes before the rear spocket needs replaced. I can make a set last almost a year doing it like that. Front spocket 15 dollars( JT steel ) and 28 dollars for the rear spocket.

[TORO1968]

IMO, you're better off buying all of the parts separately. The sprockets in that kit are fine, but I wouldn't trust that chain.

I got my Primary Drive XTS front sprocket from Rocky Mountain for $12, my Pro Taper CS4 rear sprocket from Amazon for $28, and my RK GB520-EXW chain on Ebay for $45. The chain was a 110 link unit that I had to shorten to 94 links, but that was no big deal with a chain tool.


I've heard good things about Regina chains, too. When choosing a chain, make sure it's sealed unless all you ride is MX.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by TORO1968
IMO, you're better off buying all of the parts separately. The sprockets in that kit are fine, but I wouldn't trust that chain.

I got my Primary Drive XTS front sprocket from Rocky Mountain for $12, my Pro Taper CS4 rear sprocket from Amazon for $28, and my RK GB520-EXW chain on Ebay for $45. The chain was a 110 link unit that I had to shorten to 94 links, but that was no big deal with a chain tool.


I've heard good things about Regina chains, too. When choosing a chain, make sure it's sealed unless all you ride is MX.

Sealed? what is that? I ride 100% woods all the time. and could I tell by looking at it or simply just look for them to to list in in the discription that it is sealed?

[TORO1968]

Sorry, should have clarified... Sealed meaning the chain has o-rings, x-rings, or xw-rings between the link plates.

This should be called out in the description of most chains.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by TORO1968
Sorry, should have clarified... Sealed meaning the chain has o-rings, x-rings, or xw-rings between the link plates.

This should be called out in the description of most chains.
No its fine lol Ok, thanks will look out for that.

[CJM]

That set looks like some cheap junk, bike master chain???

I got mine from motosport iirc, did x-ring with JT sprockets.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by TORO1968
The chain was a 110 link unit that I had to shorten to 94 links, but that was no big deal with a chain tool.

Is 94 Links the STOCK sproket length?
Should I pick up a Chain Break and a Chain Press?

[CJM]

94 links is stock length.

You dont need a riveting tool/press, thats only for a rivet style chain. You want one with a snap on type master link (which is what almost everyone sells by now).

A chain breaking tool is handy tho, can be done without but you need a grinder to grind the pins off the chain or the breaking tool-which is only like 20 bucks.

[TORO1968]

I agree with CJM. Rocky Mountain does sell a chain press that's intended to push the link plates together to make master link clip installation easier. The o/x-rings on a sealed chain can make this somewhat difficult to do w/o one of these tools, but by no means is it absolutely necessary.

Harbor Freight sells a really nice chain breaker for $8 if you use one of their 20% off coupons. For that price, I think it's worth picking up.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Is this kit ok? and the kit includes a D.I.D "standard" chain, is this Standard type sealed? or do i have to do the o-Ring/X-ring Option? How long would a non sealed chain last?

http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/JT-STEEL-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKET-KIT/?id=121507

[powerbomb400]

Putting the plate on I use a small c-clamp. If it has the swivel head there is a small indention the the pin can go up into while the plate goes on. Do alittle on one side and then switch to the other and do alittle until the slots for the clip are visable.

The o-rings keep the dirt and water out of the inside of the links. A non o-ring will stretch in the elements. They use them for MX more than anything.

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by powerbomb400
Putting the plate on I use a small c-clamp. If it has the swivel head there is a small indention the the pin can go up into while the plate goes on. Do alittle on one side and then switch to the other and do alittle until the slots for the clip are visable.

:confused: :confused: huh? lol you lost me there...

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Originally posted by powerbomb400
Putting the plate on I use a small c-clamp. If it has the swivel head there is a small indention the the pin can go up into while the plate goes on. Do alittle on one side and then switch to the other and do alittle until the slots for the clip are visable.

:confused: :confused: huh? lol you lost me there...

[Stickman400]

That looks like a good kit. I'd go with the DID ATV X-RING/110 LINKS option in the drop-down menu. I have no idea what the difference betweeen all those chains are but that looks like the one you want.

[Stickman400]

Originally posted by powerbomb400
Putting the plate on I use a small c-clamp. If it has the swivel head there is a small indention the the pin can go up into while the plate goes on. Do alittle on one side and then switch to the other and do alittle until the slots for the clip are visable.

The o-rings keep the dirt and water out of the inside of the links. A non o-ring will stretch in the elements. They use them for MX more than anything. lol, I do that same thing. I was going to post that but I couldn't figure out how to descibe the c-clamp good enough, so I just didn't even leave a post.

[CJM]

Yep, thats the one I got

I actually take my master plate link and drill the holes SLIGHTLY larger. Then I take a small needlenose visegrip and clamp it down so I can slide the masterlink on. Works like a charm everytime.