won't down shift when hot

[desratt]

After ~30 minutes it won't shift down unless you let it idle for 10seconds . Changed the rollers and spring. Also the shaft the clutch and rear pulley slide on has side to side play is this an issue.

[jerkyboy]

Make sure the rear pully moves free in and out without the spring on it.

[jakesdad6]

Put the hole viarotor in ur hand withe the roller facing up make sure that the when up on the center pin the slides up and down freely without any binding make sure that the sliders are not hanging up and make sure the pin moves freely did the old rollers have flat spots like the viartor was hanging up

[desratt]

The old rollers had tiny flat spots. Not sure I understand. Take the outer half of the varistor off, thenpull on what pin? How do you get the inner half of the variator out. Could it be the belt?

[jakesdad6]

The viartor is what the rollers sit in then there the cam plate witch has 3 plastic sliters that slide In and out when the rollers push against it and the there the collar pin that sit in the center of the viartor. make sure everthing slides in and out with out any sticking

[nitrofish]

Ditto on what Jakesdad said on the 3 plastic sliders, they are not all created equal. Make sure that the little metal plate with the sliders "the variator back plate" (the piece that is closest to the engine when assembled) is easily moving in the vario and not hanging up. Do this by removing the vario, hold in your hand with the collar in place, the back plate should fall into your hand freely as you turn it over. A bit of thermo expansion after a half hour of riding can exhasperate the problem causing it to not downshift properly. Sometimes a bit of smoothing on the vario itself is needed where the sliders are working on the aluminum. The side to side "wobbley" feel is normal on the rear pulley/clutch shaft with the cover off. The bearing in the cvt cover takes care of that. Matt.

[desratt]

how do you get the cam plate or plate closest to the engine off?

[jakesdad6]

There is no way you didn't take the cam plate off and put new roller in the cam plate hold the rollers from fallen out when you put the viartor on the crank. Call me if you need help I can talk you thru it or send me your number and I can send you a pic of the cam plate and the sliders thanks 4433096156

[nitrofish]

Originally posted by desratt
how do you get the cam plate or plate closest to the engine off?


The cam plate will pull off the shaft like the rest of the variator assembly. It may be a bit stuck or tight on the splines, I have had a stubborn one before also.

[nitrofish]

Originally posted by jakesdad6
There is no way you didn't take the cam plate off and put new roller in the cam plate hold the rollers from fallen out when you put the viartor on the crank. Call me if you need help I can talk you thru it or send me your number and I can send you a pic of the cam plate and the sliders thanks 4433096156


Sure, you can put the quad on it's side. I actually had to do this with my chinese yard beater before. The plate was rusted to the splines. I figured if I broke something that I would never find parts for a TGB. Yes, a TGB. Taiwanese Golden Bee. LOL. I wish the DRR was as dependable as this old girl though. It lives outside, it is always hooked to a wagon, she hauls firewood all winter long, acts as the track maintenance vehicle all summer long, never gets a bath, Jack thinks it's a practice quad ta boot. Never changed anything but rollers in the 6 years that I have owned it.

[desratt]

Wow cam plate finally came off I thought I was going to bend it..after getting on and off a few times now I can't believe i've been doing it the other way for 3 years. Just a thorough cleaning and will try tomorrow. Can you get rid of all the starting bs behind.? Looks like you need it for the proper spacing.

[Coley'sdad#8]

If you have been doing that for 3 years I would go ahead and get a new variator, that one is more than likely shot. bronze bushing in the center gets loose, slides in and out, sleeve gets wear causing the variator to hang open. I cant see the bike but this is perty common, go ahead and do new torque sprang, rollers and belt at the time, sew it up and go another few years.

[desratt]

this is the second bike just been doing it that way the whole time. just did the rollers and spring. we will get a new variator and all that in less then 2 months but he needs to remain stock till he is six

[Coley'sdad#8]

just because you get a new variator doesn't mean you won't be stock, call your favorite parts supplier and tell them you need a stock replacement, prolly a yamasida about 80 rubles i think.

[desratt]

still trying to figure this problem out .everything seems to work fine till it's hot. do the belts stretch???

[jakesdad6]

Have u tried to change the shoe spring or the clucth spring

[desratt]

Have done the rollers twice and the torque spring. Everything looks and feels perfect. Could it really be the shoe springs?

[EthansDad]

a couple of things to check out...

friction and sticktion can cause this issue. the points around the variator some gave earlier, take seriously. Also would take the rear pulley apart and clean/re-grease it. what you are looking for on the rear pulley is that with the spring off, do the two halves come apart easy and close easy with no play at either "stop".

Another thing is that if your clutch setup is "on the edge" of just right when the springs heat up, they do loose tension, which gives you your no back shift issue. I had to lighten up the rollers on my kids bike because he got heavier and the setup that used to run great, no longer ran great when hot. you might try to lighten up the rollers by .25g each, or try a slightly stiffer spring than the one you are using now.

[desratt]

I did lighten up the rollers and try a stiffer spring.. but it ran good with the previous set up for 4 months or so , I would think if I just put new with the same set up it would again. I just got new shoe springs so will try that. and how do you get the 2 rear sheaves apart to grease? it seams to feel fine, but will check if at all sticky at extreme open and closed.

a recap on what it does.
after about a half our of riding it won't climb hills anymore. if you let off throttle for a few seconds to idle it will take off like a bat out of 4311 till it shifts up then the rpms drop way down and won't go.
let it cool for 20 minutes and runs great till hot again.


still wondering if the belt can get sticky. not sure what the belt should look like but on the top corners it looks a little flat and frayed, also can the belts stretch when hot?

[EthansDad]

it really sounds like its acting like a worn out torque spring, and yes I know you have a new one in there. could be if something else in the CVT is worn out, and its causing your "known good config" not to run right.

the #1 job of that torque spring is downshift....and not being able to climb hills = failure to downshift.

clean/lube that rear pulley. with spring off, looking at it from the top (where spring goes), you will see a metal collar that flanges out (where the spring rests into). that needs to come off. with that off, you can take the two pins out and the pulley comes apart. clean/lube reassemble. also, clean/inspect or replace those sliders on your variator. that will cause weird stuff like this. for the rear pulley smoothness, gravity just about pulls ours apart - yes you can get them that smooth.

I won't hold much hope for the clutch shoe springs, that's really all about stall...but might as well while you are in there. I've seen stranger things fix weird problems.

belts don't get sticky, but do wear out. about 1-2 seasons is what I get on them. you can tell you have a belt problem if you get a LOT of dust in cover, or seeing black skid marks on pulleys. belts do wear in, or get "thinner", but that usually helps performance. they don't stretch - they will break before that happens. a little frayed is OK, just have a back up ready cause its going to break soon.

for giggles, I'd go way up in spring and see what happens. something like a ztr 1500 is super stiff and not prone to fade (I'm not a fan of its performance, but a solid testing spring, or long term/trail spring).

just something else if you are feeling good about your CVT, is to check your jetting. it is getting colder, and if your motor is not making the power it used to, then little clutch issues become big clutch issues.

[desratt]

i am getting alot of dust in cover even after 1 ride the dust seems to be a heavier dust . it all settles in the bottom instead of being everywhere.
also tried running a malossi red spring so don't think I can go much stiffer

[TTracer#22]

make sure to use malossi grease when you take the rear clutch apart even the regular hi temp grease will liquify and make the belt slip

[desratt]

too late, guess i'll cross my fingers. it didn't fix the problem any way... the seal seams so very lightly catch on the beveled end when the pully is wide open, but seal looks good. not sure if that is it.

[Coley'sdad#8]

desratt
Senior Member

Registered: Dec 2003
Location: pioche,nv
Posts: 965


won't down shift when hot
After ~30 minutes it won't shift down unless you let it idle for 10seconds . Changed the rollers and spring. Also the shaft the clutch and rear pulley slide on has side to side play is this an issue.

3 pages later:rolleyes:
it's pretty basic, the rear driver sheaves operate smoothly and don't bind , the variator travels smoothly, the bushing doesn't get hot and walk out of the hub and travels smoothly and you have a good torque spring.
do this, ride the piss out of it till it hangs up in high range and shut it off immediately and take the cover off, c if you can c what is hanging up.
if your running a 3 year old stock vario then i'm goin with that fer the problemo

[desratt]

Will do. But bike is only 6 months old.