Raptor 125 problem

[ccdhowell]

So my daughter raced her Raptor 125 this past weekend with the HMF stage 3 kit installed for the first time. The top three were running nose to tail with my daughter running third with an Apex in first and a quick Typhoon 125 in second. Don't know if the Raptor had anything for them but she was there with them so the HMF kit did what I wanted it to.

Anyway, the race stayed tight for 15 minutes or so, I was in the woods watching and one lap my daughter didn't come around with the other 2. Come to find out, the Raptor had died and wouldn't refire with the start button. Oddly enough it will still push start very easily. She got a push start and continued to race in 3rd for another couple laps and it quit again. Once again it pushed started right away, but not with the start button.

I haven't looked at it yet, just thought I'd ask where to start. Anybody ever experience a problem like this?

[chunky0071]

Check the clutch safety switch and the neutral light sensor. That would be where I would start.

[jweidner]

Hey,

Have a friend with a raptor 250, 125 and 250 have the same start button. He says he gets water inside the button all the time causing it not to start.

Neutral safety and light are good this to check also... If these check out OK, I would think it would be the switch

[T@AFP]

Keep us posted on this for sure.
We may have to look into a different style start button.

Have you guys experienced any issues with the clutch starting to "chatter" or "lunge" after a few hours of break in?

We have two new ones doing the same thing with almost the same time on the clutches. Not sure if they're just getting broke in or they're broke en.

[jweidner]

Have not had any clutch problems all year... hope this doesn't screw me.

I do know the clutch feels bad after the race is over...clutch get hot!

[T@AFP]

Originally posted by jweidner
Have not had any clutch problems all year... hope this doesn't screw me.

I do know the clutch feels bad after the race is over...clutch get hot!


That's probably it.
I still have to change the oil for first time in them. They could just have chitty oil in them.

[chunky0071]

Note Yamaha does use sh** oil for break in 0w/20 weight change it soon and often! On these air cooled motors a good 30 weight oil is what we use. Consistent oiling and cooling multiweight oils offer very inconsistent oil pressure.

[jweidner]

I actually just use yamalube 20w /50, but I change it every race.

Our trx we used 30W and it worked very well

[ccdhowell]

Thanks for all the replies guys, I will check the neutral safety switch. I may have told y'all wrong, the start button makes it turn over, it just won't start when you use it. I just thought of something, the machine is usually in neutral when we start it, and it's in gear when we push start it, with the clutch pulled in. I wonder if it could be the switch on the clutch lever? I'm gonna check that when I get home.

As far as oil goes, I change it often, after every race. I went 4 changes on Bel-Ray 10w40 dino oil to ensure break in and then switched over to Amsoil 10w40, which is what I run in all my race quads. When I put the new piston and rings in a couple weekends ago, I put in Valvoline Motorcycle 10w40 and I plan to run that one more change, then I'll go back to the Amsoil. Amsoil isn't cheap, but you can be comfortable with the fact that it isn't gonna be the oil's fault if the engine goes south.

One more thing, WE ALMOST CAUGHT A QUICK APEX THIS RACE! Dang my girl was close. Maybe is a little while I can pull the head and get it ported out real nice; wonder if that could make the difference?

[ccdhowell]

Update: it is the neutral safety switch, good call on that one. Put it in gear, pull in the clutch and it starts fine. I'll get one on order asap.

[8ball]

Do you have part number for the neutral safety switch and start button? I'm having the same issue; this happened after being out in the rain for a couple of days so might be the water issue in the start button.