Custom Headlight Issues

[bkb88]

Hey guys I recently bought a set of lights similar to Trail Tech's that are only 35 watts per light. I have them wired up with the supplied wiring kit and they seem to work great. However, the lights seem to be drawing more power than what my bike put back into the battery causing my battery to be close to dead if I kill it and need to re-start.

My battery has been in need of replacement for some time but always seemed to re-charge after a good long ride and keep the charge for a few days or so. Now the battery will not take a charge at all with the lights running. I can definitely notice that my Spal fan will really slow down when I have the lights on as well.

Can anyone think of a reason that lights rated the same as the stock 400ex lights would put such a load on my electrical system?

[CJM]

Probably b/c they are drawing more.

You also need to replace the battery, theres no reason to run with a bad one-it only strains everything else.

If your going to buy a new one, buy one for a suzuki hayabusa. part# YT-B16 iirc. its much stronger and the same size.

[HondaPohl]

Check all your connections. Make sure you don't have any bare wires touching your steering stem or frame. You could have a short that has enough resistance not to blow a fuse. Could be your draw. Start there. Than maybe look into your stator.

[DnB_racing]

with the quad running check to see if you have at least 13.5 charging volts, or even up to 14.5,at the battery,

if you do have this much its your battery, if not it could be the regulator or stator,

the regulator takes anything over around 14.5 and sends to ground and only allows the proper charging volts to be sent to battery

but depending on how you wired the lights you could be causing the charging issues, try testing the battery charging volts with and without lights on, it should maintain the same voltage,

if I remeber right the stator output is 147 watts , im not sure how many watts the fan draws, givng that your using 70 for lights and around 10 more for tail light and indicators.

and if you give the stator a 80% service rating to allow for starting surges it equals around 117 usable watts so if your fan is using more then 27 watts then it might be pushing it

[bkb88]

Thanks for the replies guys. I will be checking the voltage later today with a DMM to see how well the charging system is working. Here is the link (http://blazer-international.com/products/Fog_Driving_Lights/Incandescent_Fog_Driving/RE770R) to the lights that I have installed. I will get some pics up later as well.

[bkb88]

I just checked the voltage on my electrical system and here are the results:

-13.50V with only engine running
-13.15V with Spal fan running
-12.8V with lights running. steady decrease in voltage
-12.60V with lights & Spal fan running. steady decrease in voltage.

[HondaPohl]

If you have more than 12v's your charging system is charging. Especially if the meter is fluctuating alot. If your voltage is staying steady on the meter than It might not be. Kind of like a car. Seems like it is. The more power is needed to run your acessories the more resistence between your battery, causing it to draw more. You may just need a good battery. Take CJM's advice.

[bkb88]

Here some pics of the install.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m14/thebutelr/SANY0619.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m14/thebutelr/SANY0621.jpg

I have eyes now! lol.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by HondaPohl
If you have more than 12v's your charging system is charging. Especially if the meter is fluctuating alot. If your voltage is staying steady on the meter than It might not be. Kind of like a car. Seems like it is. The more power is needed to run your acessories the more resistence between your battery, causing it to draw more. You may just need a good battery. Take CJM's advice. not really the voltage regulator should put out over 13.5 volts, you should be able to run light with no battery just the regulator and stator, there are issues either with your system or your overloading it

im not saying the battery is good, but there are other issues, if you disconnect the battery or a bad battery wont make the charging volts less, it should still be at least 13.5 volts from regulator with battery not in the circuit at all. unless the battery is dead shorted, and if it was it would never charge at all

either your stator isn't putting out enough for the load, or its going bad, or you voltage reg is going bad, you can perform a voltage drop test to help isolate the problem

http://www.excelauto.com/online/Tech.d/altvdt.html this is for an auto motive but the atv is the same test only the resistance can be as much as .4 instead of the .2 on the automotive,

or use this flow chart to help isolate it http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

[Stickman400]

Well atleast they look cool.:D Hope you get it figured out, I can't help you because I don't have a clue when it comes to those kind of electrical problems.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by bkb88
I just checked the voltage on my electrical system and here are the results:

-13.50V with only engine running
-13.15V with Spal fan running
-12.8V with lights running. steady decrease in voltage
-12.60V with lights & Spal fan running. steady decrease in voltage. actually after looking at these numbers, shows the voltage drop to be pretty good, an average of .3 roughly until you put the 70 watt light on,

then the voltage dropped .7 and will steadily drop, either your lights are actually using more the 70 watts or shorting out somehow or your stator isn't putting out enough to handle the load,
and since the stator output is 147 watts at 5000 rpms
im thinking the load is too much for the system to handle at idle and any low rpm will drain the battery,

electricity will take the path of least resistance, meaning if the stator cant handle it the battery will have to be drained instead of being charged it will discharge


one way to check is disconnect one light at a time, and if it works good for them both isolated then your stator isn't putting out enough to handle the load, but check the flow chart to help if needed

[Stickman400]

Originally posted by CJM
Probably b/c they are drawing more.

You also need to replace the battery, theres no reason to run with a bad one-it only strains everything else.

If your going to buy a new one, buy one for a suzuki hayabusa. part# YT-B16 iirc. its much stronger and the same size. Are you sure about that part number CJM? I have been needing a new battery and I went to my local shop and 'O Reillys and neither of them could find anything for that part number. I thought about getting one of these.
http://oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BAT0/ETX9.oap?ck=Search_etx9_-1_-1&keyword=etx9

[CJM]

Originally posted by Stickman400
Are you sure about that part number CJM? I have been needing a new battery and I went to my local shop and 'O Reillys and neither of them could find anything for that part number. I thought about getting one of these.
http://oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BAT0/ETX9.oap?ck=Search_etx9_-1_-1&keyword=etx9

My bad its the YT-12A-BS (yuasa, which is the OEM battery brand many bikes use) such as this one: Ebay # 190555183043 Im sure you can find it cheaper. I think i paid 65 bucks for mine.

Dunno why I thought YT16B,t hats for another application.

If you go in ask for a suzuki hayabusa GSXR 1000cc battery

[Stickman400]

Ok, thanks, that sounds like one of the ones they listed for the Hayabusa. Is it better than the gel filled ones? After seeing those SuperStart ones with the gel in it, that seems like a better buy also. Or maybe a Hayabusa SuperStart one will work?

[CJM]

Mine is AGM (absorbed glass mat-bout the same as gel really).

Got mine here: http://www.batterymart.com/p-YT12A-BS-AGM-Maintenance-Free-Battery.html

[Stickman400]

Okay, I just ordered the one you suggested. It has 20 more CCA and is about $20 cheaper than the other one anyway. Also the SuperStart one is AGM also, the guy at 'O Reillys just called it "gel". Thanks again CJM, you're the best!:D

Sorry about jacking your thread bkb88, you can have it back now.:p

[CJM]

Mine is AGM (absorbed glass mat-bout the same as gel really).

Got mine here: http://www.batterymart.com/p-YT12A-BS-AGM-Maintenance-Free-Battery.html

Your welcome dude. Sorry to hijack the thread tho.

[MtnEX]

I HAVE THE ANSWER FOR THIS ONE.

Not all bulbs are created equally.

Two different type or brand bulbs with the same 35 watt rating can have a way different current draw.

I found this out some time ago when I changed bulbs on another quad. I put in a different brand that were the same watts. The amp draw was different. Pretty much flattened the system like you described. Went back to the previous bulb brand and problem was solved.

[HondaPohl]

Than the bulbs that drew more current had to be a higer wattage. CurrentXVoltage=wattage. The voltage shouldnt have a drastic change unless maybe your regulator is bad or its not charging.

[bkb88]

I will have to agree that these cannot be the correct advertised wattage. The system seems to charge the battery up fairly quick after a 30 minute ride and starts up with no problem even with the Spal fan running. These lights just draw WAY too much from the battery.

It seems like the proper fix for this (higher output stator) will be more trouble than what it's worth in the end. I may just have to scrap this lighting project until I can afford some similar Trail Tech lights to mount in the same location.

[bkb88]

Update:

Both of my light bulbs have burnt out. It started with just one not working and now both are cooked. I have checked the voltage up to the socket they plug into and is getting full voltage. I am suspecting a bad voltage regulator. Could this have caused my battery drain problems??