SPAL Fan Question

[Stickman400]

I just installed my SPAL fan and I used all 22 gauge wire. Now, I read the install that NacsMXer wrote up in the sticky, and he said he used 16 gauge wire for the most part. Now will my 22 gauge still work? Or will I have to pull it all and re-run 16 gauge? The wire I got is rated for 300 volts, is that good? Also, once I get it all hooked up, how often should I run it? BTW, I'm waiting on a switch I ordered online so I haven't had a chance to test it yet.

[CJM]

22 is AWFULLY thin, I used 14 on mine. If anything Id use heavier gauge wiring, it could burn up b/c the wire isnt rated to handle the load-but I believe in overkill.

Mine works like this: From battery to 3amp fuse (iirc might be a 5amp), to switch, the switch is rated at 15 amps, then from switch to fan. Never gave me an issue yet.

I turn mine on when Im riding slow or its very hot outside.

[Stickman400]

That's another thing, I didn't install an in-line fuse. Should I? I didn't feel like wiring that huge thing in there, but I guess it would be better to blow a fuse than fry my fan.

[CJM]

Id say its worth it wiring in the fuse. I will only use the blade style fuses-the glass ones are junk imho. Its also worth it to use crimp on connectors too.

Look at it like this: I used to build up these service vans we used for towing/roadservice. We had lightbars, small computers (kind like what cops used to use), 12v compressors, extra 12v outlets, etc.

NOTHING I wired ever failed-why? Because I used a fuse block (even tho the boss disliked it) and everything was fused, fuel blew hey thats ok-1000 dollar lightbar-DEF not ok. I even wired in 12v breakers-should the load be to great the breaker hits, no big deal-but that was mostly for the compressors and the main wire going to the fuse block.

Sorry to drift off topic, just felt it was some pertinent info.

[HondaPohl]

The wire is rated for 300 volts but that doesnt mean how much current it can handle. 22 gauge is almost phone wire and can only handle a few amps. Best way to figure it out is to use ohms or watts law. Take a ohm meter and read between the positive and neg of the fan. than take that number and divided it into the voltage which would be around 12 volts. That will give you how much current the fan will draw. 14 gauge generally is rated for 15 amps. You most likely be good with 16 or 18. 22 will most likely start to get warm. Def put a fuse inline. If not you could possibly burn everything up.

[Stickman400]

I think I'm gunna get my switch and wire it in and then run the fan for a minute or two and if the wire gets hot I'll just re-run 18 gauge. I'll get a fuse too. Thanks guys.

EDIT: Ok guys, I just re-ran it with 16 gauge anyway, also put in an in-line fuse. Got it all wired up and touched the wires together to check if it worked and she fired right up.

[Stickman400]

Alright I finally got my switch today and got my fan all wired up and working. I couldn't get any good pics of the fan because I got all the plastic on and everything, so I just snapped a couple pics of the badass switch I got.
http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv192/Stickman400/Random%20Pics/IMAG0119.jpg
When the switch is off the light isn't on.
http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv192/Stickman400/Random%20Pics/IMAG0123.jpg
But when it's on it's a bright blue, pretty cool. lol Thanks again for all the help guys!
http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv192/Stickman400/Random%20Pics/IMAG0126.jpg

[HondaPohl]

Looks good just watch those plastic nuts that thread on the switch! They suck. The virbration could make it come loose. Just keep an eye on it.

[Stickman400]

Thanks for the tip. I wonder if lock-tite will work on plastic?;)

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by Stickman400
I think I'm gunna get my switch and wire it in and then run the fan for a minute or two and if the wire gets hot I'll just re-run 18 gauge. I'll get a fuse too. Thanks guys.

EDIT: Ok guys, I just re-ran it with 16 gauge anyway, also put in an in-line fuse. Got it all wired up and touched the wires together to check if it worked and she fired right up. did you ever do an amp reading?

the reason im asking is im curious how much power they use, if they draw much more then 5 amps, then you will be pushing the limit if your using all the lights(with high beams running), this will equal around 70 watts total for lights and around 65 watts for fan if it is 5 amps at around the normal operating voltage of 13 volts, and the stator is rated for 147 watts at 5000 rpms, but that's not the full load capacity of the stator, it should be derated by 80% to allow for surges and start ups

if its drawing over 3 amps I personally wouldn't run the high beams, just to help keep the load down on the stator, and to prevent any possible future electrical issues

you dont have to worry as much about the heat build up from too high amperage but more about the voltage drop from using too small a wire,

by using too small a wire you will put more strain on the whole auxiliary circuit from the stator

[Stickman400]

Well I ran 16 gauge, is it still problem with 16 gauge? I also don't run my lights hardly at all, I rarely ride at night.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by Stickman400
Well I ran 16 gauge, is it still problem with 16 gauge? I also don't run my lights hardly at all, I rarely ride at night. how many amps?and how much wire was ran?

it all depends on how much power it uses and the amount of wire used..


if you know the amount it uses it will help others also,if you could get an amp reading or watts used it would be great

[4HundredEX]

Also watch that switch around water... its not a water proof switch and it will short out, fall apart, or at the least quit working. Its a interior switch to be sheilded from water. You need a marine grade switch for anything that will come in contact with water... ie creek/stream, mud, water hose when cleaning, etc.

[Stickman400]

Yea, I kinda figured it would, I wrapped the hell out of it with electrical tape but it won't hold out the water forever. I'll look around for some better ones sometime. But until then I'll just say away from the water and mud.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by CJM
22 is AWFULLY thin, I used 14 on mine. If anything Id use heavier gauge wiring, it could burn up b/c the wire isnt rated to handle the load-but I believe in overkill.

Mine works like this: From battery to 3amp fuse (iirc might be a 5amp), to switch, the switch is rated at 15 amps, then from switch to fan. Never gave me an issue yet.

I turn mine on when Im riding slow or its very hot outside. CJM i though you might find this useful,the link is for a calculator to determine the size wire needed to handle the voltage drop

with the quads low voltage and low amperage it more a problem with voltage drop then heating wire from a high load.

the higher the voltage drop the more strain on the stator and all the components,and in most cases will start discharging the battery instead of allowing it to charge

with most motorcycles and quads the most voltage drop you would want is .4, but .2 is much better


Example:::the spal fan uses 1.9 amps, and total wire used is approx 15 feet (both pos and neg) and saying we want to keep the loss down to .2, plug the numbers in and it give a wire size of 15, so go to the closest larger, and your right on the money with your number 14 wire

http://www.altronix.com/app_notes/calc.php

http://www.securityideas.com/howtocalvold.html

as far as fusing I would fuse to protect the component not the wire, meaning 1.9amp X125%= 2.35 so a 3amp should be sufficient,

im not sure if you've ever modified a harness,
but if you have you would see that Honda uses multiple grounds all tied together (bus)
this is to cut down on voltage loss by actually multiplying the size of the wire times the amount of ground wires, basically cutting the total length in half, so the only real loss is on the positive wire not the ground

the problem comes in when people remove grounds they are actually putting more strain on the system

so basically if you have a small wire that has some length to it and it has a voltage drop of 1 volt your good running 13 volt battery will now only be able to supply 12 volts

i hope this makes sense to all, just a little info on why Honda does what it does with there wiring harness, and maybe help understand some potential problems

[4HundredEX]

Originally posted by Stickman400
Yea, I kinda figured it would, I wrapped the hell out of it with electrical tape but it won't hold out the water forever. I'll look around for some better ones sometime. But until then I'll just say away from the water and mud.

Its not the back to be worried about as much, its the front and water getting down into where the switch pivots.

[CJM]

Perfect sense DnB! Ive used similar calcs before for precise stuff, most things I just plain figure on how much the load the device really gonna pull.

I was playing with my setup the other day b/c I had issues with the stupid 15amp fuses blowing 2x on me now (its water related apparently and very common for an EX) . So I checked the fuse and its 5amp, I did try a 3 amp fuse as soon as I flipped the switch it blew, I tried again and blew-gave up and went back to 5amp with no issues.

Im currently using all 14ga wire iirc and grounded to the coil. If anything a switched relay would be a good idea-but for such a low draw and simplistic setup I didnt bother. But the switch I used is rated at 20amps iirc.