Trail Tech Lights - Electrical Gurus Step Inside!

[danhung11]

I need some electrical help with an aftermarket light setup. They are 35W MR16's. I have a three way switch, top one on the link. These are single band lights. I know the switch I have is overkill for these lights, however it's what came with my eBay find. When I talked to a Trail Tech rep, he told me to pick one position and go with it, so I chose the Hi Beam setting. So I should have a couple unused wires. I've tried every possible scenario, it's to the frustrating stage now.

http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/switches/010-ELV-72.pdf

I would prefer not cut into my OEM harness, simply because it's perfect, uncut. DnB had the idea of running a line from the tail light, which I have done - still no dice. Any help with be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Dan

[wilkin250r]

This should be really simple and straightforward, the fact that it's not is could mean trouble.

First off, let's start from the VERY beginning. Have you verified that the lights do indeed work? Try hooking them up directly to a 12V source (like a car battery).

Next, verify the switch works with the lights by hooking the switch and lights up to a 12V source.

[danhung11]

The man I was looking for, thanks Erik.

The lights work, just hooked them up to a 9v battery. The switch is basically new. Ears open...

Thanks,
Dan

[DnB_racing]

Dan this is how I would do it.. without cutting harness

but obviously you could use the blue yellow or green on your switch.
I would either use the blue or green so low is off just for the switch style but any of the three wires will work,

and of course the only way it will work is if you have power on from your original light switch. so make sure you have power from the brown to green on the harness

EDIT::: also put an inline fuse in!!

[wilkin250r]

OK, how complete is your wiring harness? You said the harness is brand new, but I gather that you DON'T have the stock handlebar switch that houses the headlight and kill switch?

You do indeed have a voltage regulator, yes?

DNB is talking about the brown wire, but you don't want to do that. Your power is actually the yellow/white wire, and your stock kill switch connects it to the brown wire to make it active. If the brown wire is active, then it means you have the stock headlight switch, and you certainly don't need BOTH switches in place.

I can understand that you don't want to cut the wiring harness, I'll see if I can find a connector to work for you.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
OK, how complete is your wiring harness? You said the harness is brand new, but I gather that you DON'T have the stock handlebar switch that houses the headlight and kill switch?

You do indeed have a voltage regulator, yes?

I have every piece of the harness, including a like new switch. I want to get away from the OEM switch. I go snap a couple pictures of what I am dealing with. Give me a few minutes.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by danhung11
I have every piece of the harness, including a like new switch. I want to get away from the OEM switch. I go snap a couple pictures of what I am dealing with. Give me a few minutes. then I apologize I misunderstood!! my way will only work with the stock switch operational... next idea is to get a beat up switch and just use the wire and connector, or try to find the same connector at a Granger's or similar supply house and splice it inline insteaad of the stock one

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by danhung11
including a like new switch. I want to get away from the OEM switch.

Hmmm, how much you gonna be selling that like-new OEM switch for? :devil:

[danhung11]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
then I apologize I misunderstood!! my way will only work with the stock switch operational... next idea is to get a beat up switch and just use the wire and connector, or try to find the same connector at a Granger's or similar supply house and splice it inline insteaad of the stock one

What will the OEM switch do for me that the aftermarket one won't? Besides the connectors, it's ultimately the same I believe. I do not want to run the OEM switch, it doesn't clamp onto anything. I'd rather have a tether switch, than a switch there. This trail tech switch is thin enough, it fits.

wilkin250r - I've posted another almost perfect switch for sale that was close to this one went for about ~$80 shipped. This one is is in the basement along with a NOS 86-87 light, even has the helmet sticker. :devil: troybilt has a nice one, he's firm on $70. I do have some stators and what not if you still want those for your science project. :D

As far as the lights, I wanted something cleaner than what I've been running, basically the stock 86-87 light rigged onto my aftermarket clamp. Here is how they look, you can see the lights are already "Y"ed together. I have connectors on all lines, and enough to jack it up a few more times.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_2082.jpg

Please let me know if you need additional photos.

Dan

[wilkin250r]

Ok, you're probably out taking pictures as I post this, but I won't need the pictures. I can just look at my own.

Ok, if you are getting rid of the OEM switch, one of three things is going to need to happen. You either need to cut the main wiring harness (which you already said you don't want to do), or you need to cut the wire harness attached to the switch. The third option is to wait a day or two while we find a suitable connector for you to use.

The yellow/white wire is your guy, that's the one you want, that's your main power. You are going to connect that yellow/white wire from your harness to the red wire on your switch.

If you are going to be using the high beam setting on your switch, your lights are then going to be connected to to the yellow wire, and then your ground connection will be to the chassis.

For the kill switch, you'll use the black/white wire, but you shouldn't need to cut anything for that, it should be it's own connector (at least it is on mine). You'll connect that black/white wire to black wire on your new switch, and the white wire on your switch will connect to chassis ground.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
Ok, you're probably out taking pictures as I post this, but I won't need the pictures. I can just look at my own.

Ok, if you are getting rid of the OEM switch, one of three things is going to need to happen. You either need to cut the main wiring harness (which you already said you don't want to do), or you need to cut the wire harness attached to the switch. The third option is to wait a day or two while we find a suitable connector for you to use.

The yellow/white wire is your guy, that's the one you want, that's your main power. You are going to connect that yellow/white wire from your harness to the red wire on your switch.

If you are going to be using the high beam setting on your switch, your lights are then going to be connected to to the yellow wire, and then your ground connection will be to the chassis.

For the kill switch, you'll use the black/white wire, but you shouldn't need to cut anything for that, it should be it's own connector (at least it is on mine). You'll connect that black/white wire to black wire on your new switch, and the white wire on your switch will connect to chassis ground.

So what about the two left over from the lights? Will two just not be plugged up?

[wilkin250r]

In your photo, I don't see the connector with the three wires that connects to the OEM switch. It has three wires, a yellow/white wire, brown wire, and green wire. Where is that guy?

[DnB_racing]

just for info on Honda connectors.. Ive been able to match many of the connectors exactly with AMP brand,

ive given to my electrical supplies salesman and hes been able to match any so far for me,,,

i dont have the exact number for the one your looking for, as ive not had to match that one yet,

but a real good supplier should be able to match it for you if you have one nearby

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
just for info on Honda connectors.. Ive been able to match many of the connectors exactly with AMP brand,

ive given to my electrical supplies salesman and hes been able to match any so far for me,,,

VERY INTERESTED!!!

I've been wanting to match OEM connectors for a while, especially those on the stock 250r harness.

Any chance you can give me a short list of what you have matched so far? I think it would be handy to have that information posted somewhere on this website (I'm thinking in the How To section).

[danhung11]

wilkin250r, just want to say thanks for the hour long phone call. Without your help, I would have fried my stator eventually. Can't ever trust anyone on eBay these days, he's even a member on here. :ermm: Oh well, got them for a great price so I guess I'll either downgrade to the 35W and sell these.

Thanks again buddy!
Dan

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
VERY INTERESTED!!!

I've been wanting to match OEM connectors for a while, especially those on the stock 250r harness.

Any chance you can give me a short list of what you have matched so far? I think it would be handy to have that information posted somewhere on this website (I'm thinking in the How To section). ill see what I can come up with for ya, all the ones ive matched are from several different quads,

as soon as I get cleared to return to work, im out on medical until my doc releases me, everything is there,

but I might have some at my shop, I might have some numbers on the connectors that Ive replaced

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by danhung11
wilkin250r, just want to say thanks for the hour long phone call. Without your help, I would have fried my stator eventually. Can't ever trust anyone on eBay these days, he's even a member on here. :ermm: Oh well, got them for a great price so I guess I'll either downgrade to the 35W and sell these.

Thanks again buddy!
Dan what was wrong Dan? I thought yours were 35watt

[danhung11]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
what was wrong Dan? I thought yours were 35watt

I was told by the seller it would be fine on a stock stator. Wilkin250r walked me through some test(s) with the multimeter, you'll have to ask him because that electrical stuff was over my head. He basically guessed what number came up on the multimeter based on where he told me to put the leads and ran manual calculations for the 35w vs. 50w. Results indicated 35w. Also, he identified that my battery in the truck was on it's last leg. Sweet!

[wilkin250r]

Results indicated 50 watt.

Dan, keep me posted on your progress, let me know that everything turns out okay and everything works, that the kill switch works, that your tether kill still works, and the light works properly. Lots of dune areas require a working tail light for night riding, so make sure that's working also. If it's not working 100%, I'll help you solve it.

The battery in your truck isn't dead yet, but it really should be over 13 volts. As far as how much life is left, that's tough to tell. Could be a few months, could be a few years.

And Trail Tech usually bundles their lights with a spot and a flood, which actually work really well together, but if you're using only one, then one light might work better than another. You'll have to try it and see.

And you shouldn't need to sell those lights, replacement bulbs from Trail Tech are only about $8 each. You won't be able to get them in time for your dune trip, but it should be easier and cheaper down the road to just get new bulbs than trying to sell them and get a different set.

[danhung11]

My bad, yes 50w. I should take a picture of the wires now, you'll crack up laughing. I just wanted to get it back to where we had it, I have a couple of nights to clean it up. You'd be proud of me, even bought two 4ft sections of shrink wrap. :D

The tail light is a simple LED I got from Walmart, basically a brown wire in the back and chassis ground.

[DnB_racing]

Wilkin250r when we are figuring additional lighting, should we be de rating the estimated output of the stator any extra because of the age and degraded insulation or any other issues with the older stators??in other words like 60% or anything like that?or can we use 100% to figure out how much we can run

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
Wilkin250r when we are figuring additional lighting, should we be de rating the estimated output of the stator any extra because of the age and degraded insulation or any other issues with the older stators??in other words like 60% or anything like that?or can we use 100% to figure out how much we can run

Naw, biggest issue is the resistance of the copper, and the copper won't degrade for hundreds of years.

However, there ARE basic losses in the whole system due to the resistance of wires, connections, ect ect. You can't use all 100W of the stock stator for headlights. As a general rule, use about 80%.

[danhung11]

Just thought I would throw this out there in case anyone else is curious about Trail Tech MR16 lights...

I talked to Justin at Trail Tech, he stated the newer style lights have attached, with a white porcelein piece. The leads are basically welded on. The older style detach and are replaceable with a Halogen bulb you can get at Home Depot, they are roughly $7-8 for the 35W Halogen. Essentially the same bulb in track lighting systems. Trail Tech sells both styles still, but are in the process of phasing out the old, but will still sell the wires seperately for a few years. They made the switch about 4 years back. If anyone is wondering, the handlebar mounts I have on the picture attached a few above are the Lazer Star mounts, however you have to retap them to a 10mm 1.5 pitch for the Trail Tech lights to bolt on.

Unfortunately, mine are the newer style and require that I solder two wires to the posts. If I had time, I'd do that but I can't seem to locate my soldering gun!

wilkin250r, I've decided to contact the bike shop in Waynoka and see if I can 2-day two 35W bulbs there, so they will be waiting for me Friday morning. I think shipping will be around $24, so it's about $40 for a couple of bulbs. That way, I don't have to be a One-Eye Willy.

My lights are all hooked up, tail-light works, on/off switch, and both kill switches. I ran out of time tonight to make it look pretty, but I always have time to kill down in the dunes it seems like so I can mess with it down there. I've been busy these past few weeks and this weekend snuck up quickly. At any rate, thanks again for all your help with this! You are definitely an electrical guru! I'll snap some of the pics of that extra electrical stuff to see if you are interested. I'll send the stuff your way for helping me out.

Dan

[wilkin250r]

While you're at it, because shipping is probably going to be the same, maybe get a couple wire harnesses shipped at the same time. That way you can take a couple bulbs from Home depot with you, and have provisions for a backup in case you catch a rock on the headlights.

[danhung11]

That's a great idea wilkin250r, backups never hurt!

As far as the OEM style connectors, I'd be interested in a few of them as well. Can you post some information of what you have DnB_Racing?

Thanks!
Dan

[DnB_racing]

Ill be at my shop today, and I will see if the ones ive replaced have any numbers on them,
the part numbers themselves are at my work, and im out for a little while, till doc's release me, but i will check on what I have,and let you know tonight

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by danhung11
That's a great idea wilkin250r, backups never hurt!

As far as the OEM style connectors, I'd be interested in a few of them as well. Can you post some information of what you have DnB_Racing?

Thanks!
Dan Dan the only harness I have at my shop with any replacement right now is a Z , and there are no numbers on the connectors

I do have a spare harness I can bring to my sales rep and have him match all of the connectors including the cdi, so we can post some of the numbers for all, but in the mean time i believe this site has the lighting harness connector I just looked quick but I do think they are the match http://www.vintageconnections.com/

but like I said im going to get all the connectors matched by a sales rep but it might take him a couple weeks to get me all the numbers

[danhung11]

I am in no hurry for the connectors, have a few harness(s) here. Went ahead and cut the three prong female end for the lead wires to run those lights, I lucked out with POS harness I clipped. My harness I bought new, still uncut!

Wasn't able to get ahold of any shop down in Waynoka for delivery address, must be closed throughout the week during non-peak seasons. Oh well, it will be a blast to ride as is. I'm sure I'll be fine with cyclops!

Keep me posted on the connectors! Thanks guys!

Dan