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troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:00 PM
Any tricks to removing carbon buildup inside a pipe without damaging the chrome? I've heard of using a torch, but I'm afraid that will discolor some decent chrome...

danhung11
04-26-2011, 07:12 PM
I think some CLR would take it off, just be careful not to get it on the chrome or test it out on some junk chrome part and see what it does... I'd be interested to know what you do. I also googled it, and found a bunch of ideas...give it a shot.

Can you snap a couple of before and after pics?

Good luck man.

troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:17 PM
That LRD pipe I took off that Arens bike was choked plumb full of carbon deposits, 1/8" to 1/4" thick!! No wonder why that thing wouldn't run right, that and the low compression...

danhung11
04-26-2011, 07:20 PM
Originally posted by troybilt
That LRD pipe I took off that Arens bike was choked plumb full of carbon deposits, 1/8" to 1/4" thick!! No wonder why that thing wouldn't run right, that and the low compression...

Are you sure it's all carbon buildup? Seems pretty excessive for carbon, in that case you might want to start with chisel. :p On Experts.com, it says to contact like an auto restoration shop or auto store and see if they recommend something. You might try to pm someone like Neil... he's full of knowledge and I'm sure he's seen one similar in the past 40 years.

troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:35 PM
I'll post some pics, it comes off in chunks, its nuts... pipe weighs like 20 lbs... haha...

the chrome though is still nice on it, just needs some cleaning... but I could get it rechromed...

troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:38 PM
I'm going to try my old friend simple green. This stuff works on everything.. soak it for like a week in concentrated simple green and report back.. with pics.

danhung11
04-26-2011, 07:45 PM
You might also try that Greased Lightning stuff I found at Home Depot, it's in a yellow bottle. Stuff works great and blows Simple Green out of the water in my opinion.

troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:50 PM
Good call, I'll try that too.. I also read Sea Foam, but I don't know what that is... or oven cleaner...

troybilt
04-26-2011, 07:51 PM
This is what I'm up against: (and this is only half of it!!!)

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/robltc/DSCN1525.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/robltc/DSCN1527.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/robltc/DSCN1526.jpg

fx4pitrone
04-26-2011, 08:00 PM
My LRD pipe for my LT250r (I know, I know, not a Honda!) looked the exact same way. I gently chiseled away what I could reach w/ a flat head w/ smoothed corners.

I then plugged one end of it, and filled it w/ a bunch of nuts and bolts (that you don't care about!) and de-greaser, then brake cleaner and covered the other end and shook the shizz out of it until my arms hurt... then dump out, and repeat....

I did this a bunch of times and it came out very good... pipe was like 5 lbs. lighter....

danhung11
04-26-2011, 08:10 PM
My brother also mentioned he uses a soda-blaster with pistons, etc. It works pretty good, this is all here-say. I have no idea what a soda blaster is...

That pipe looks nuts... how could you not see that? That high-temp silicone looks fairly fresh compared to the years of build up.

This bike rips! LOL!

DnB_racing
04-26-2011, 08:12 PM
are any of these pipes coated with a ceramic paint?
the reason Im asking is the pipe you sold me Troy, I soaked in degrease all night, and there was still a very even amount of black all inside,
I would think if it was all carbon it wouldn't be an even coat??or am I wrong and its supposed to be a chrome like finish inside???
the reason I ask is Ive never looked inside a new pipe

TLR-Online
04-26-2011, 10:06 PM
Plug one end of the pipe, pour some seafoam in it and BB's, then plug the other end of the pipe. Shake it around and maybe even let it sit for a few days.

Another thing you could possibly try is lye diluted in water, wear gloves and eye protection lol.

stever250r
04-26-2011, 10:48 PM
How about this.....?? For the price, I would hope it would work... but I am not sure the 14 oz trial size would be enough...

http://carbonkleen.com/carbonkleen.htm

socal
04-26-2011, 11:00 PM
I resently used a wire wheel on the end of a drill and dremel wire wheel where the drill wouldnt fit.I periodically sprayed simple green in there to help and keep the dust down,wearing gloves!.A bit messy but worked great!

265 sleeper
04-27-2011, 09:56 AM
I use my hone that I had for my cylinders . Worked out nicely . It didn't get all of it but it smoothed everything out. Then I used a smaller hone got where the big one couldn't . But the bbs and some degreaser shaking it seem like it will work

woodsracer144
04-27-2011, 10:10 AM
that thing looks mint compaird to mine!

cdrookie
04-27-2011, 10:38 AM
i doubt the shaking method will work good unless you have some serious guns on you. i know scraping with a screwdriver chips away at it, and that'd take a while.

danhung, a soda blaster is like a sand blaster that uses baking soda, i'd use a glass beader, or sand/aluminum oxide if you are careful not to hit the outside. that'd be the fastest method IMO.

DnB, a new pipe is just as smooth on the inside as on the outside. after all, it started as a flat piece of sheet metal... carbon is like tar, spread tar with a puddy knife and it'll be somewhat even but not very smooth.

DnB_racing
04-27-2011, 12:52 PM
Originally posted by cdrookie

DnB, a new pipe is just as smooth on the inside as on the outside. after all, it started as a flat piece of sheet metal... carbon is like tar, spread tar with a puddy knife and it'll be somewhat even but not very smooth. Ya I allways thought they had a ceramic paint baked on the inside to keep them from turning blue from the heat... I guess I was mislead!

86 Quad R
04-27-2011, 01:05 PM
in the past i've used a can of carb cleaner and/or seafoam. after plugging one end up you empty a can of carb cleaner in there and plug the other end up. afterwards you shake the pipe around allowing the carbon to soak it all up. allow to set for about a day or so. then take and secure the pipe in a vise or equivelant (after removing the plugs) with one end pointed upward. using a propane torch you simply burn out the carbon. with the carbon being soaked with carb cleaner it will start to burn like charcoal on the inside. once this accures, start blasting away with compressed air. the ring of fire will travel from one end of the pipe to the other, all the while blowing the ash from the opposing opening. works great.

ps: THIS SHOULD BE DONE IN A "WELL" VENTED AREA!!!!

TLR-Online
04-28-2011, 02:12 AM
Get some oven cleaner in a spray can. Coat the inside and let it set for a day or two. Wipe it out and you can probably go back with steel wool or a scrubbie to get the rest off. Repeat until it is clean. It may take 2/3 times or a week +

You will probably have to keep it in a trash bag so the oven cleaner doesnt evaporate/harden. I would wear gloves and maybe plug the ends/mask the chrome that may have contact.... it can get messy.

croat1
04-29-2011, 07:41 AM
sea foam and bb's works great for a pipe with low carbon buildup.
on a heavily carboned up pipe i was going to fill the pipe with sea foam and bb's. plug the ends and then hook up an air powered roatary ball vibrator (available from mcmaster carr)

other options by myself or others: contact a radiator shop. see what kind of dip/cleaner tanks they have. contact an automotive engine rebuilding shop and see what they clean with.

the one problem areas is see is the bend in the header section of an aftermarket R pipe. the building up with carbon in the bend is the "choke"
point. i think finding a chemical cleaning solution is the best option. or use a torch/fire pit.

i think the main concern is to clean the pipe and regain performance. i wouldn't worry too much about the outside finish getting damaged. i know of a good plater that can rechrome the pipe.

troybilt
04-29-2011, 08:02 AM
Thanks Joe! that's my plan is to fix this and another pipe up then get rechromed. This one wouldn't need to be since the chrome is actually really nice on it, just needs cleaned... but I'll do what it takes.

C-LEIGH RACING
05-02-2011, 11:12 AM
Years ago, auto machine shops had costic vats they would lower all the engine part into & boil them clean.
That stuff in those tanks was strong enough to remove anything, rust, baked on oils & sludge & when those parts came out, all were brand new metal, clean.
Might could check around at those places & see if any of they still have those vats.
Would be a waste of time going to a new business, because the tree huggers have ruined any new cleaning product you can buy.
Check out an old shop, you might get lucky.

What has collected inside our pipes is no more than burnt gas & oils, no way we can get away from it. Just a by product of the 2 stroke running.
You'll not find a 2 stroke engine running that dont have that in the pipe, it couldnt be ran lean enough for it not to happen. You could try, but get ready to spend some money on pistons.

Any product you plan to use, needs to be something based just like for degreesing & needs to be full strenght so it can melt what is collected.
Pick up a can of oven cleaner & read what the chemicals in it are.
Neil

screaminta
05-26-2011, 07:30 PM
I don't know if this was said yet or not as I went through the thread quickly but here is what I did and it worked pretty good.
I took a wire hanger ( for hanging shirts) and clipped the hook part off above the twist. I then chucked the twisted part in a cordless drill. I cut the opposite end of the hanger (the straight part) directly in the center. I straightened the hanger out so it stuck sort of straight off the drill. Then I stuck the open ends into the pipe and spun the drill. With some manipulation I managed to get most of the carbon out then finished up with some carbon remover.... Hope that wasn't confusing!!!

wes350x
05-27-2011, 08:08 AM
I recently did this... I let oven cleaner sit in it for 3 days, Has both ends sealed to prevent evaporation. Then used my pressure washer inside of the pipe. It worked pretty good. I tried the loose bolt thing inside and it didnt work for me.