34PJ vs 35PWK A/S vs 38PWK A/S vs TMX?

[IcutMetl]

Well I can't get my stock carb to stop leaking out of one of the overflow tubes. The petcock is off, and still it will drip slowly- even more pronounced after the engine is ran. I have taken the carb completely apart, sprayed it with carb cleaner, air-hosed it, sprayed it with carb cleaner, air-hosed it again, washed it in warm soap & water, air-hosed it again, put it back together and back on the 'wheeler- still drips. Seems to run great, but drips.

So I'm considering just switching to a different carb. I switched from a 38PJ to a worked 38A/S on my other 250R, but it's more mid-top and the cylinder's been ported, Sparks TT, bored, higher compression, etc. It's been so long since I've ridden it, I can't remember what it's like compared to my red R, which is very peppy in the low-mid.

I want to build the red R into a woods machine that's potent in the low-mid RPM range. It's got the factory airbox with a K&N, stock cylinder for now with no known porting, and an FMF Fatty. I'm thinking in the future perhaps a VF-3 reed cage, small-medium bore ported cylinder, and mild compression.

Will the 35a/s be the right choice, or should I get another 38? I've heard the TMX is a good carb too, but I have so many spare jets and needles for the Keihin's laying around.


Thanks!

[wilkin250r]

35mm is pretty small on a 250cc motor, but you're not planning on revving to the moon, so it should give you great throttle response and low-mid rpm performance.

However, I'd probably suggest a different pipe. The FMF is actually a decent all-around pipe, and it revs out pretty well for an all-around pipe. I think you'd be better served with something that's actually dedicated more towards the low-end of your RPM range.

[IcutMetl]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
35mm is pretty small on a 250cc motor, but you're not planning on revving to the moon, so it should give you great throttle response and low-mid rpm performance.

However, I'd probably suggest a different pipe. The FMF is actually a decent all-around pipe, but I think you'd be better served with something that's actually dedicated more towards the low-end of your RPM range.

I would really like to find a Sparks MX; that sounds like the ticket for me. I just don't want to turn it into a total "tractor". The FMF works for now (had it left over from putting the Sparks TT on my other R, and I'm trying not to go overboard on this one- although I agree I would rather have something a bit different.

I've never ridden an R without a 38mm carb (went from a 38PJ to a 38A/s on my other one, or anything different than an FMF or the Sparks TT, which is definitely mid-top. The red R seems to run great and just the type of power I'm looking for with the stock carb, so my whole thinking is that a carb that slightly bigger and of better design might be the ticket. I'm definitely keeping the 38 A/S on my other one for a wild big bore project.

[etccb]

I have a 36pwk AS that I believe would be good for a mild build like this. PM me if you are interested.

(EDIT)this is a 36 quad vent=non air striker. sorry.

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by etccb
I have a 36pwk AS that I believe would be good for a mild build like this. PM me if you are interested. I thought the 36mm is a quad vent and the 35 has the a/s.. have I been led astray?

[danhung11]

Have you tried adjusting your float to make it seal better? Simply take the pin out holding the float in place and bend the ears to make it a tighter seal. It's worked for me... That's also when I identified a strand of hair...

[etccb]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
I thought the 36mm is a quad vent and the 35 has the a/s.. have I been led astray?

After digging deeper it looks like you are correct.
My bad!

[IcutMetl]

I will try that. I did totally disassemble the carb including the float and jets- cleaned it out the very best I could. Seems to run really strong for being pretty much stock other than the FMF pipe and K&N filter. Definitely meaty in the low-mid and falls off in the top. My other R comes alive about 1/3 the way thru the power and sings like hell right on up!

I am pretty sure the 36mm PWK is the quad vent. I thiiiink the quad vent showed its strong points in a motocross situations keeping the fuel from foaming in the whoop sections....this is what I've read. Only the 35mm and the 38mm PWK's were air strikers, which had the fins in the intake to supposedly add more low-mid punch.

For being a stock cylinder with no porting, all it would really "need" if anything is a little more meat all the way thru, so a 35mm carb of a better design may be just the ticket w/o going overboard.

Now if I could get this one to quit it's drip so I didn't have to buy another one...

[dirtycj5]

i have 35 airstriker for sale pm me
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/fqdawld/100_2168.jpg

[jcs003]

http://www.atvsource.com/articles/product-reviews/2000/122900_lectron_carb.htm

[IcutMetl]

Originally posted by jcs003
http://www.atvsource.com/articles/product-reviews/2000/122900_lectron_carb.htm

And now you have to throw that in there! Haha...

[wilkin250r]

I can understand how frustrating things can be, but I'd give it one more shot on the clean/rebuild, only this time REPLACE the float valve. And while you're at it, get a good pen light and look at the valve seat where it seals, see if there's any damage there that would cause the leak.

And you're sure its leaking from the overflow, right? Not the screw on the bottom of the bowl?

[woodsracer144]

I'd say for a low end a 36 would be the best.

I ran a 40MM lectron on ice this year and it is VERY pick when it comes to tune it, it might also be the fact that i ran E 85 but it was hard for me to pull good hole shots cause the low end was a dud! I would come out mid pack and then i'd work my way back up some time but it was alot of pissin around. I'd go with a 36 A.S for a woods motor, I have a 35 and it gets the job done but a 36 would be nice some time.

[IcutMetl]

I asked Robert from RB Racing (who bored & ported my other R's cylinder) the same general question, and he feels that the 38 A/S is still the way to go for all around duty, even on a stock jug.

I don't plan on doing anything else to this cylinder for now since it seems to run pretty good, but it'll get a woods port or a slightly larger jug in the future and I guess I don't want to starve it even more. We'll see if I can pick up another air striker pretty cheap. The trick now is getting this PJ to stop it's damn drip! Maybe this weekend I will take it apart again; perhaps get a rebuild kit for it.