checking interest in my Big bore cylinder.

[snacob14]

Well, I've been fighting this setup for a while, and I'm having no luck. If I had a helpful machine shop I could have this finished, but I'm honestly just getting burned out on the whole deal. I'm going to take it to the shop one more time, and if I have no luck then I'm selling it.

I have a stock sleaved 295bb cylinder. it will come with a coolhead chambered for pump gas. It will come with all gaskets, brand new piston w/bearings and clips. I cannot get it to seal well enough to keep water out of it. I rode it and made it about 100 yards and it fouled the plug. I'd take 350 bucks or a reasonable offer shipped for the whole deal. You'd have to probably have some orings machined into it, or maybe you're smarter than me when it comes to this stuff and you could make it work, I'm just tired of messing with it. I used a stock head, rechambered and I could get about ten minutes of ride time on it and it would take a while to restart, finally came to the conclusion that it was still leaking a little. Let me know if there's any interest in this and I may sell it coming monday.

[Langbolt]

What exactly do you mean by "Can't keep the water out of it" ?

I had one of these setups and had no issues....

Are you using a COMETIC head Gasket ?

Did you remove the studs and LAP the top of the Cylinder ?

Do you Pressure check the coolant lines to see where the LEAK is ?

This should be an EASY fix to keep ya runnin'

:devil:

[CanuckR]

When the sleeve was installed did they machine the sleeve for the stud clearance or did you run different studs? I had a BB sleeve, and after lots of screwing around with mine I used a stud without a shoulder on it. I then filled the space around the stud with epoxy, removed the studs and lapped the barrel flat again.
Then I called up Kelsey at RK tech (2strokeheads.com) and had him send me a cool head and dome. His cool head uses a way better dome design than the esr and pro design heads. His dome is larger in diameter and goes around the studs. So there is actually room for an O Ring groove in the dome. He also asks you questions about your motor to design a proper Chamber. Instead of an off the shelf "xx cc's" dome from ESR or Pro Design.
Problem Solved. Bike ran great.
Atleast until the cylinder cracked at the boost ports from too much material removed during porting.
If you want pictures of a dome from one of his heads let me know.
Derek

[trx750gsxr]

i would love a pic!

[snacob14]

yeah we took the shoulders off the studs. I don't know if he lapped the top of the cylinder though. first started with a cool head and leaking water from the studs and then made it about 100 feet and it fouled and filled the cylinder with antifreeze. He then realize that the cylinder had been decked. He said he would build a stock head and put a step in it and chamber it for the bigger piston. less water, but still enough to foul a plug in 10 minutes. I know the o ring is the way to do it, but I don't think he is capable and I don't have the cash anymore to keep stickin in this thing and it not work.

[CanuckR]

If your guy can re chamber a head Im sure he can cut an O ring groove. The dimensions are easy to find on the internet and O ring manufacturer's websites. Lappimg the top of the cylinder is easy, all you need to do is tape some sandpaper to a sheet of glass, spray some light oil on it and run the cylinder in a figure 8 motion. I use 400 grit sandpaper. Here is a picture of the RK tech head and dome.

[CanuckR]

The dome by itself. This is the BB stock cylinder dome.
I dont know why I could only attach one picture?
Derek

[cdrookie]

Originally posted by snacob14
yeah we took the shoulders off the studs. I don't know if he lapped the top of the cylinder though. first started with a cool head and leaking water from the studs and then made it about 100 feet and it fouled and filled the cylinder with antifreeze. He then realize that the cylinder had been decked. He said he would build a stock head and put a step in it and chamber it for the bigger piston. less water, but still enough to foul a plug in 10 minutes. I know the o ring is the way to do it, but I don't think he is capable and I don't have the cash anymore to keep stickin in this thing and it not work.

i wouldn't take any more work to that guy.
when the sleeve was installed did he cut the shoulder deep enough(or too deep)into the cylinder? is it in there straight? when you say it's fouling plugs, is it gas/oil? if it's burning coolant it's going to smoke like a mofo...

first thing i'd do is lay a straight edge over the top of that cylinder to make sure the sleeve isn't too high, or low, or crooked. then remove the studs and lap the head and cylinder like CanuckR said. after that i'd bolt the head to the cylinder, put water in it, block the inlet/outlet water nipples and turn the cylinder over and let it stay like that for a few hours and see if any water is leaking. you could have a cracked cylinder also...

[sangheraent]

i love the loonies and toonies on the desk. :cool:

[CanuckR]

Yeah that wasn't on purpose. Figured somebody would say something about it eventually. The ever growing change pile.
Derek