2005 TRX 400EX - Clutch Slipping Issue

[Woody003]

So here's my issue...I own a 2005 TRX 400EX and the clutch seems to be slipping but, wanted to put it out there to see if anyone had something similar happen to them before I spent even more money! I've already replace the fibers...got them at Glamis and box said 250r and lady said it was same as the 400ex, plates looked OK just a little discolored, 450r springs, and a Motion Pro clutch cable!

Now even with all this I'm still friggin slippin! I've looked and made sure my cable was adjusted properly but, that didn't resolve anything!

Any bit of advice or help would be greatly appreciated! Thanx all!

[NacsMXer]

There's your problem right there....250R clutch plates!!

250R plates are thinner than the 400EX units, no wonder it's slipping :ermm:

They will fit perfect in the 400EX basket/inner hub, but they are still thinner.

I run the 250R plates in my 400EX with full Hinson components. Since the plates are thinner, I can run 1 extra steel and 1 extra fiber plate over a stock 400EX clutch to achieve what's called an "8 plate clutch". What you have now is a 7 plate setup with plates that are too thin to grip against each other.

[Woody003]

Had a feeling the Glamis "band aid" was the issue but, wanted to confirm before spendin more money! Thanx for the info!

[jcs003]

also, make sure the 450 springs are ok. springs come in different configurations. for example. cr500 springs are softer and shorter than trx250r springs.

[Woody003]

Yah I checked those already and found that they are just a bit "stiffer" than the 400's!

Hey, anyone have any problems with there clutch cable stickin a bit once it gets hot from running in between the head pipes?

[400exrider707]

Yes, I think some guys bought longer cables and just ran them down the frame with zip ties. I would just replace the cable once a year and make sure you see where the mounting tab is down by the motor that it is aiming the cable between the headpipes and not touching. I found mine was a little too close with an aftermarket head pipe, just bent that bracket a little and it was fine after that. If it's already sticking, just replace it.

[Woody003]

That's the thing it's a new cable! Bought a Motion Pro in hopes that it would be better but once it gets hot it seems to stick a bit!?

[NMills]

Hot? did it touch the head pipe and melt????

[Woody003]

No! It has a clear pathway but, while at the dunes it started feelin a bit sticky once my bike was hot! Once it cooled down the cable felt normal again!

Cable and clutch issue are 2 seperate issues! I think!?

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Woody003
Had a feeling the Glamis "band aid" was the issue but, wanted to confirm before spendin more money! Thanx for the info!

No problem man, sorry you were misinformed.

As far as the clutch cable between the headers goes, it's not the best routing option. Along the right side of the frame is way better since the cable completely avoids the headers.

I had Motion Pro make me a custom "Terminator" clutch cable in I believe +14" length over stock. You can see how it's routed in the pic below.

A cheaper but equally effective option that many 400EX owners do is buy a new clutch cable for a 1992 Honda 250X. It is longer and allows you to route the cable down along the frame. Honda part# 22870-HC0-670

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7453/dsc0244c.jpg (http://img715.imageshack.us/i/dsc0244c.jpg/)

[Woody003]

Sweet lookin bike! So any idea what the Motion Pro cost ya?

[tri5ron]

One other thing to remember reguarding the clutch,
that can contribute to slippage, is the type of Engine oil you are using.

If you use a full synthetic, it will cause the clutch to slip.
(even a good OEM clutch)

Some Syn. blends are OK,... as long as they DO NOT say "Energy Conserving" on the SAE label.
Make sure you check the label on the back of the oil bottle... and do not use anything that says "Energy Conserving".

[Woody003]

Good to know! Thanx man! Up to this point I've just always been told to make sure it didn't have "moly" or how ever it's spelled!?

[400exrider707]

Originally posted by Woody003
Good to know! Thanx man! Up to this point I've just always been told to make sure it didn't have "moly" or how ever it's spelled!?

That's basically what he's referring to. I always used full synthetic Klotz 10-40 in my 400ex and didn't have slip issues with it. If you're using a synthetic just make sure it says wet clutch safe.

[NacsMXer]

Full synthetics do not automatically cause a clutch to slip. It's usually the automotive/car full synthetics that will cause this...but isn't always the case. Just make sure it has the JASO-MA certification on the back of the bottle (which is the same thing, indicating wet clutch safe). Make sure it does not say "energy conserving" on the back like tri5ron said.

I use Maxima Maxum 4 Extra ester-based full synthetic. It's one of the best oils out there IMO.

Other full synthetics that are safe to use, and are good choices for the 400EX are Shell Rotella T 5w40, Mobil 1 Racing 4T, and Klotz MX4.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Woody003
Sweet lookin bike! So any idea what the Motion Pro cost ya?

Thanks man. The custom cable from Motion Pro was pretty expensive, like 45 bucks or something like that.

That's why I mentioned the 250X cable. It should be around $20 at the Honda dealer. I'm probably going to go with the 250X cable when it's time to change my Motion Pro.

[CJM]

Ive also used mobil 1 15w-50 fine, I recently switched to shell rotella 15w-40 and find not only is it cheaper, it held up far better than the mobil did. I changed it after like 5 rides of 6-8 hours each-something like 30-40 or so hours and it was still good, didnt break down.

[Woody003]

Right on! With the heat here we all run 20 - 50! To damn hot!

[tri5ron]

Nacs, & 707,
Thanks for clarifying my statement.
I didn't mean to say all "full synthetics were a no-no,...
just the "Energy Conserving" types.

You guys stated it more clearly than I did.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by tri5ron
Nacs, & 707,
Thanks for clarifying my statement.
I didn't mean to say all "full synthetics were a no-no,...
just the "Energy Conserving" types.

You guys stated it more clearly than I did.

I knew what you really meant the first time. Just the way that you worded it made it sound like a blanket statement to all full synthetics.

Also the fact that you said some syn blends are ok. Again I knew you were referring to some full synthetic "formulations", but there's also actual "synthetic blend" oils out there such as Honda HP4, which are a blend of conventional and synthetic. A person not in the know could easily misinterpret that.

Sorry didn't mean to pick apart your post lol :rolleyes:

[tri5ron]

Originally posted by NacsMXer
I knew what you really meant the first time. Just the way that you worded it made it sound like a blanket statement to all full synthetics.

Also the fact that you said some syn blends are ok. Again I knew you were referring to some full synthetic "formulations", but there's also actual "synthetic blend" oils out there such as Honda HP4, which are a blend of conventional and synthetic. A person not in the know could easily misinterpret that.

Sorry didn't mean to pick apart your post lol :rolleyes:

Haha, No offense taken at all.
you just clarified what I meant to say.
sometimes talking vs. typing dosent carry the same implications.
It's All Good !!! :D :D :D