ricky stator

[bigE28]

what needs to be done to get lights on your quad when you get a new stator? thinking hard about getting one, but i would like lights also. also, does it fit right in or do you need "extras" to install it?

[wilkin250r]

Well, first off, you need to determine what equipment you DO have on your quad. (and I assume you're talking about a stock ignition system that is capable of lights, you're not talking about an aftermarket or CR250 ignition, correct?)

Your stator will have a power output for lights, it's a single white wire with a yellow stripe (the ground is provided by the frame).

From THAT point, you will need a voltage regulator, because the output of that yellow wire alone will be about 30~50+ volts, and you'll fry your lights if it's not regulated.

You'll then need some sort of switch (generally the handlebar switch) to turn the lights on and off.

You'll need the headlight, tail light, and the wiring to put it all together.

Your quad had all this stuff at one point, so you will need to determine which of these components you still have, and which ones you need. Often when people remove the lights, they also remove everything else associated with it to save weight, so you might not have any of it. Or, you might get lucky and have everything except the headlight.

Sure, it seems easy enough when I post it here, but you will likely get bogged down in the details, especially if you have to wire it all up again. Just post up on here, and I can help walk you through any problems you're having.

[wilkin250r]

This is a small photo of the voltage regulator, it's a couple inches square, and if you still have one, it will be located up front near your CDI.

[DnB_racing]

Wilkin when running a reg/rec is a capacitor helpful to keep the light from dimming at a low rpm??or do the reg/rec have caps built in??

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
Wilkin when running a reg/rec is a capacitor helpful to keep the light from dimming at a low rpm??or do the reg/rec have caps built in??

No, the lights dimming at low RPM is due to low voltage. You would need a HUGE capacitor to store enough energy to run your lights for any length of time, you'd be much better off with a battery. And no, the reg/rec does not have a capacitor built in.



But for others reading this thread, that's not all of it. Let me cover all the details in that respect.

The stock 250r regulator is just that, a regulator, it's not a regulator/rectifier combo. The 250r lighting system is alternating current.

If you wanted to convert to HID lighting, or had some other reason to convert to a DC setup, you cannot just throw a regulator/rectifier on there, because they use a full bridge rectifier. You can't have your AC ground and your DC ground be the same, you would need to isolate your stator AC ground off of the chassis to use a reg/rec. (it's possible to rectify just one portion of your circuit and use it for DC lighting, but not with a normal reg/rec, and you cannot use chassis ground to do it).


But let's say you DO have ground isolation and so forth. At that point, you get a choppy electrical signal to your lights. They wouldn't "dim", they would flicker, and that flicker would change with your RPM. The capacitor would smooth out that flicker, it acts as a filter, it would turn your choppy electrical signal into a smooth and constant signal (more or less).

[DnB_racing]

a
Originally posted by wilkin250r
No, the lights dimming at low RPM is due to low voltage. You would need a HUGE capacitor to store enough energy to run your lights for any length of time, you'd be much better off with a battery. And no, the reg/rec does not have a capacitor built in.



But for others reading this thread, that's not all of it. Let me cover all the details in that respect.

The stock 250r regulator is just that, a regulator, it's not a regulator/rectifier combo. The 250r lighting system is alternating current.

If you wanted to convert to HID lighting, or had some other reason to convert to a DC setup, you cannot just throw a regulator/rectifier on there, because they use a full bridge rectifier. You can't have your AC ground and your DC ground be the same, you would need to isolate your stator AC ground off of the chassis to use a reg/rec. (it's possible to rectify just one portion of your circuit and use it for DC lighting, but not with a normal reg/rec, and you cannot use chassis ground to do it).


But let's say you DO have ground isolation and so forth. At that point, you get a choppy electrical signal to your lights. They wouldn't "dim", they would flicker, and that flicker would change with your RPM. The capacitor would smooth out that flicker, it acts as a filter, it would turn your choppy electrical signal into a smooth and constant signal (more or less). is the lites flickering at low a sign that the stator isn't working to its potential, or maybe on its way out ..or is it just the nature of these beasts so to speak??

[bigE28]

my quad has everything OEM (switch, front and rear light) i have done nothing to motor. everything OEM there too. so, i need a cr ignition plus the stator? any adapting plates?

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by bigE28
my quad has everything OEM (switch, front and rear light) i have done nothing to motor. everything OEM there too. so, i need a cr ignition plus the stator? any adapting plates?

Aha. Now I fully understand your question.

The CR ignition is a complete system that replaces your stator, your flywheel, your ignition coil, and your CDI with a set originally designed for a CR250 dirtbike. Most of the components are much smaller, and it will need an adapter plate to mount up. The adapter can be bought from ESR (as well as all the other components), and I beleive CT racing sells one, too, but I'm not sure.

The CR ignition cannot run lights, it doesn't have any provision for providing "power", it can only provide spark (a much better spark and better timing, yes, but only spark). It cannot run lights.

If you wanted to run lights AND a CR ignition, I've heard of some people making new CR stators with a small amount of power for lights, but it's not much. I think it's 35watts or 50 watts, while your stock stator is capable of 100 watts. I can't give you much more information than that, because I've never tried any of those systems.

You could also run a seperate battery, and then you could run lights as bright as you want, for as long as your battery lasts. It must be a 12V battery, and a larger battery will last longer. This isn't a very popular setup because the battery adds extra weight.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by DnB_racing
a is the lites flickering at low a sign that the stator isn't working to its potential, or maybe on its way out ..or is it just the nature of these beasts so to speak??

Possibly, but that's not the only possibility.

For example, if you are trying to run a rectifier/regulator on a system that is only designed for a regulator (an AC system) without floating the ground, then you're not really reaching full potential. One half of the AC cycle, you'll operate normally, but the other half becomes a dead short. If your rectifier manages to miraculously survive the dead-short portion, you're only getting half the power out of it, and probably twice the heat (because the half that is a dead short will create lots of heat). And you'll get all kinds of flicker, because you only have half a waveform.

If you want more info, I'll draw you some diagrams.

[bigE28]

what would the benefits of buying a new stator be if mine is working fine? would you get a better or stronger spark? or that is what the cr ignition system does?

[DnB_racing]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
Possibly, but that's not the only possibility.

For example, if you are trying to run a rectifier/regulator on a system that is only designed for a regulator (an AC system) without floating the ground, then you're not really reaching full potential. One half of the AC cycle, you'll operate normally, but the other half becomes a dead short. If your rectifier manages to miraculously survive the dead-short portion, you're only getting half the power out of it, and probably twice the heat (because the half that is a dead short will create lots of heat). And you'll get all kinds of flicker, because you only have half a waveform.

If you want more info, I'll draw you some diagrams. PM sent

[bigE28]

anybody? need help.

[slamdak8782]

Search on here and youll find your answer because it has been covered in great detail. the benefits of different setups. Basically in a nutshell advanced timing and upgrade to digital ignition in some years of CR

[wilkin250r]

A CR ignition gives you a better spark and better timing curve, and also revs up faster (doesn't necessarily increase peak RPM, it just lets you get there faster).

But if your stock stator is working fine, you won't get any benefit from a new stock stator.

[bigE28]

thanks for the help fellas!!! you just saved me some money i can spend elsewhere, YEE HAW!!!