View Full Version : Roller vs. Non-roller
Brauap
03-03-2011, 04:04 PM
Hey guys! I just have a quick question for all you motor heads! I was wondering if the power difference would be noticable with a full roller motor vs. a non-roller motor? Would you even be able to feel the power gains? Approx. how many horses would you release if you switched over to a roller?
If it matters the motor I am refering to is a Ford 302. :P
Thank You!
Colton W.
BlaineKaiser450
03-03-2011, 04:15 PM
Not sure on specific increases, but the 440 in my dads plymouth is fully roller and it rips! :D
finsteratv
03-03-2011, 05:00 PM
my dads friend put a 302 roller in his ford conversion van. personally i havent ridden in it, but he said it pulls his dunebuggy over to the sand just fine and everything and goes pretty well for a conversion van haha.
slightlybent47
03-03-2011, 05:06 PM
I think with a motor that has rollers it has quite a few other mods that help it out and that’s why they tend to run better. I think the biggest deference is in how fast the rpm’s rev up. A balanced motor with rollers and other mods will help put that power at your finger tips.
I built a LT1 years ago and it made it much more responsive but it was blue printed and balanced as well.
Thumpin440ex
03-03-2011, 06:51 PM
Roller cam set ups are great for daily driving and hp low mid through the RPMS.. But it is a fine trade off. If you are looking for a all out race set up then solid cam wins hands down. It has more power up top, and a faster ramp rate, but will sacrifice some down low, mid, due to the valve lash settings.. You will want to run a solid roller or even solid flat tappet if you are spinning a engine 6500 or more alot. They are easier on valve train parts, due to them needing less seat pressure to prevent valve float.. Hydraulic rollers are easier to maintain, but require more seat pressure to keep valve float from happening because of a heavy lifter.. Solid set ups also will require more maintenance. You will need to make sure that valve lash is correct, as it will change after a month of hard running.. It all depends on what your looking for and how much you want to mess with it..
John
Brauap
03-03-2011, 07:32 PM
I am looking to get about 300HP out of my 302 to put in my 87 Ranger..
After some more searching I had ruled out the roller due to the shear price difference! The money I simply don't have to put in there!
Can you please help me understand the difference between Hydraulic flat tappet and Mechanical flat tappet lifters?
Thank You!
Colton W.
Thumpin440ex
03-04-2011, 12:02 AM
Originally posted by Brauap
I am looking to get about 300HP out of my 302 to put in my 87 Ranger..
After some more searching I had ruled out the roller due to the shear price difference! The money I simply don't have to put in there!
Can you please help me understand the difference between Hydraulic flat tappet and Mechanical flat tappet lifters?
Thank You!
Colton W.
In this case go with a hydraulic flat tappet.. This makes for easy valve adjustment.. A solid flat tappet is the same as a solid roller.. You will have to stay after the valve adjustment.. If this is a daily driver, with out a doubt go with either hydro roller or hydro tappet..
Hydro tappet lifters pump up with oil inturn giving room for valve adjustment, will move up and down internally. Basically more room for error( valve adjustment)
A solid tappet is just that, a solid hunk of metal between the cam and the push rod.. You need to adjust vales withen thousandths.. And you have to do this alot..
John
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