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mad4106
02-24-2011, 08:58 PM
i have a stage 2 hotcam in my bike rite now with a standard bore with curtis sparks exhaust and 11:1 high compression standard piston?! im still getting beat my stock 400. I want to know if the stage 2 cam is meant for bore kits such as the 416 and 426 and not a stock bore?!

BenHonda400ex
02-24-2011, 09:04 PM
I think the standard piston is 10:1 compression. I don't see how you're getting beat by a stock 400ex

honda400ex2003
02-24-2011, 09:12 PM
9.1:1 is stock comp. the stage 2 should be alright with 11:1 no matter what the bore really. i guess it is hard to say, could be jetting poor ring seat, alot of different things.

steve

hocman123
02-24-2011, 09:13 PM
actually i think the stock is a 9 to something compression

the stage 2 is a fine cam to run with a stock bore especially b/c u have a higher compression. but it would add more if u had a bore job.

things like this come up all the time. I would just swap bikes with him and see who wins b/c he might just be a better rider

crownandmonster
02-24-2011, 09:13 PM
Stock compression is lower than 10:1. I think its actually in the 8.5 to 9:1 area. Drag racing has to many variables to just assume you would beat a stock 400 because you have some engine mods. What surface are you riding on? What kind of traction are you both getting off the line? Who is getting the "holeshot"? Is one rider heavier than the other? Is your clutch slipping? What gearing are you both running? These are just some of the factors.

AnotherNewb
02-24-2011, 10:19 PM
I'll buy the stage two cam if you pull it!

sneaky11
02-25-2011, 06:29 AM
I might be wrong, but I'm not sure the stg 2 is a good cam for a 11:1 stock bore. I think there is not enough CC's to suck the air needed to get a true 11:1 compression, and your lift&duration is too long and let air goes out before the end of the stroke. I think your cam overkill your motor, you should drop to stage 1, go bigger bore or go higher c/r at least 12:1

I'll go bigger, at least a 416 11:1

Pipeless416
02-25-2011, 10:44 AM
Originally posted by sneaky11
I might be wrong, but I'm not sure the stg 2 is a good cam for a 11:1 stock bore. I think there is not enough CC's to suck the air needed to get a true 11:1 compression, and your lift&duration is too long and let air goes out before the end of the stroke. I think your cam overkill your motor, you should drop to stage 1, go bigger bore or go higher c/r at least 12:1

I'll go bigger, at least a 416 11:1

not necessarily. i would look more into doing a compression check, really taking a look at your clutch, or the rider mod. either youre not making as much power due to wear, or you're not putting it to the ground.

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 05:19 PM
Originally posted by Pipeless416
not necessarily. i would look more into doing a compression check, really taking a look at your clutch, or the rider mod. either youre not making as much power due to wear, or you're not putting it to the ground. Do you think if the clutch was slipping it would make you lose power? Sometimes when I get in 3rd at high revs and I shift to 4th and push the gas it revs out then I have to let go of the throttle and then it will like shift.. When I put on my full exhaust and air filter I really didn't notice a difference in power like I thought I would be able to pull wheelies in 2nd gear and for some reason I can't I'll pull in the lever and pull back and it does't want to come up

crownandmonster
02-25-2011, 05:24 PM
Originally posted by BenHonda400ex
Do you think if the clutch was slipping it would make you lose power? Sometimes when I get in 3rd at high revs and I shift to 4th and push the gas it revs out then I have to let go of the throttle and then it will like shift.. When I put on my full exhaust and air filter I really didn't notice a difference in power like I thought I would be able to pull wheelies in 2nd gear and for some reason I can't I'll pull in the lever and pull back and it does't want to come up


Your clutch slipping will not cause you to have less power. You will still have full power, it just wont get transferred to the rear wheels. If you are noticing the motor rev out but you aren't gaining any speed then yea the clutch is bad.

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 05:25 PM
you have some other issues by the sounds of it.
jetting

clutch

gears and shift forks could be messed up.

id check them in that order. if you have not rejetted since your pipe and filter install then you are running lean. your clutch could be slipping also judging by how it revs up fast and you have to let off the gas for it to function properly again.

its time to start digging a bit since we arent going to get any info without asking specifically for it. we have to break this down a bit further before we just keep throwing ideas out there.

whats your jetting?
What are the exact mods that you have?
hours on the bottom end from the beginning?
what year?

steve

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 05:31 PM
Originally posted by honda400ex2003
you have some other issues by the sounds of it.
jetting

clutch

gears and shift forks could be messed up.

id check them in that order. if you have not rejetted since your pipe and filter install then you are running lean. your clutch could be slipping also judging by how it revs up fast and you have to let off the gas for it to function properly again.

its time to start digging a bit since we arent going to get any info without asking specifically for it. we have to break this down a bit further before we just keep throwing ideas out there.

whats your jetting?
What are the exact mods that you have?
hours on the bottom end from the beginning?
what year?

steve It's a 05, Mod: Tusk nerf bars, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Uni Air Filter, open air filter, and blingstar bumper. I don't know how much hour's where on the bottom. I would say around 30 or 40 hours on the bottom end since I have had it maybe wrong. I don't think it was ridin that hard because the guy said his wife rode it, but the weird thing is that it won't do the reving out when I'm on pavement like when I go down the street it doesn't slip

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 05:32 PM
Oh and 155 main jet and 42 pilot jet, and 1 turn on the air fuel screw

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 05:36 PM
adjust the f/a screw properly

put a 165 and report back how much better it runs.


then do a plug chop at WOT, 1/2 throttle, and idle.

all tasks can be found here along with how a plug should look when burning decent.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445695&highlight=jetting+placement

then adjust from there after determining if you are rich or lean. my sneaking suspicion will be that you will be slightly rich with that and will need about a 162 but depending on elevation and temps the 165 might be better.

steve

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 05:41 PM
Originally posted by honda400ex2003
adjust the f/a screw properly

put a 165 and report back how much better it runs.


then do a plug chop at WOT, 1/2 throttle, and idle.

all tasks can be found here along with how a plug should look when burning decent.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445695&highlight=jetting+placement

then adjust from there after determining if you are rich or lean. my sneaking suspicion will be that you will be slightly rich with that and will need about a 162 but depending on elevation and temps the 165 might be better.

steve I don't really think so I mean it's not backfiring at all, I think it might be my clutch because it take's forever for it to engage in a gear sometimes I have to let go of the clutch alittle bit for it to engage the gear

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 05:52 PM
sounds good then...

with a full curtis sparks exhaust the odds of running a 155 are very slim even with a closed box and stock filter but heck anything is possible unless you are at like 7000 ft elevation or something higher.

im betting that your 42 pilot is throwing your plug reading off and making it look alright and not "pop" since it is plenty rich with that in there.


start throwing some parts at it, if anything it is fun to do. buy a tusk setup with hd springs and see if it helps out. its only 50 bucks or so, so you are good to go there. adjust that beast and see how she runs then. that one wont slip with the hp that your setup will put out.

although... with the low hours you guess to be on it, the stock plates should be fine unless it is improperly adjusted. take it apart and check them out, verify thickness of each to make sure they are in spec with wear requirements. the stock setup will take alot of hp before it even thinks about slipping.

next on the list, shift forks being worn from having the clutch improperly adjusted. esp if you are getting mis-shifts and jump outs. that takes a bit more time to do because the bottom end gets to come apart. :D

enjoy doing some diagnosis on it before doing anything. you need alot more info from internally before you can start to get any closer to what it could be. there are many issues that can cause problems with slipping and running poor.

steve

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 05:57 PM
Originally posted by honda400ex2003
sounds good then...

with a full curtis sparks exhaust the odds of running a 155 are very slim even with a closed box and stock filter but heck anything is possible unless you are at like 7000 ft elevation or something higher.

im betting that your 42 pilot is throwing your plug reading off and making it look alright and not "pop" since it is plenty rich with that in there.


start throwing some parts at it, if anything it is fun to do. buy a tusk setup with hd springs and see if it helps out. its only 50 bucks or so, so you are good to go there. adjust that beast and see how she runs then. that one wont slip with the hp that your setup will put out.

although... with the low hours you guess to be on it, the stock plates should be fine unless it is improperly adjusted. take it apart and check them out, verify thickness of each to make sure they are in spec with wear requirements. the stock setup will take alot of hp before it even thinks about slipping.

next on the list, shift forks being worn from having the clutch improperly adjusted. esp if you are getting mis-shifts and jump outs. that takes a bit more time to do because the bottom end gets to come apart. :D

enjoy doing some diagnosis on it before doing anything. you need alot more info from internally before you can start to get any closer to what it could be. there are many issues that can cause problems with slipping and running poor.

steve Do you know how much it cost's for a Dealership to install the clutch and adjust it? Thanks for all the help!

CJM
02-25-2011, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by BenHonda400ex
Do you know how much it cost's for a Dealership to install the clutch and adjust it? Thanks for all the help!

its very easy to do yourself with some minimal tools. All you need to do is take off the side case cover and about 6 little 8mm headed bolts and swap the discs out. Tusk makes a very good clutch I hear as well and its much cheaper than honda.

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 06:08 PM
probably around 75-100 bucks. whatever an hour worth of labor is at the particular shop.

it is not hard to do with a basic knowledge of tools and such.


see.. now we are getting somewhere. I have just found out that you probably did not do the work on it or (no offense here but) dont know what you are doing based on the response just given.

this will then tell me that you would not know if you do not know how to properly read a spark plug to tell if it is running correctly or not and would not be able to tell if you are indeed running super super lean on your main jet.

all of the symptoms given by you up to this point can indicate a lean running engine but i can not judge that without being there to ride it and inspect everything myself.

so is the above a true statement of diagnosis for you? no offense, i just gotta find out what im working with here. I assume that people know how to do this stuff 99% of the time if they are already deep enough to want to try to diagnose this stuff. if this is not the case, then we have to step back to the beginning and teach you how to do some of this stuff. you have to do some reading and learn how to do this stuff a bit before any of us can give you help any further.

steve

BenHonda400ex
02-25-2011, 06:15 PM
Originally posted by honda400ex2003
probably around 75-100 bucks. whatever an hour worth of labor is at the particular shop.

it is not hard to do with a basic knowledge of tools and such.


see.. now we are getting somewhere. I have just found out that you probably did not do the work on it or (no offense here but) dont know what you are doing based on the response just given.

this will then tell me that you would not know if you do not know how to properly read a spark plug to tell if it is running correctly or not and would not be able to tell if you are indeed running super super lean on your main jet.

all of the symptoms given by you up to this point can indicate a lean running engine but i can not judge that without being there to ride it and inspect everything myself.

so is the above a true statement of diagnosis for you? no offense, i just gotta find out what im working with here. I assume that people know how to do this stuff 99% of the time if they are already deep enough to want to try to diagnose this stuff. if this is not the case, then we have to step back to the beginning and teach you how to do some of this stuff. you have to do some reading and learn how to do this stuff a bit before any of us can give you help any further.

steve Thanks alot for that post just read it, helps alot. And you are right I really don't know what I'm really talking about, I won't denie it Haha I'll get back on you about tomorrow

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 06:24 PM
which one did you read? the jetting one? that is pretty helpful. read some of the other articles also. type in clutch install in the search. I think we have done a couple of impromptu writeups for installing one.

download a manual also from that link i gave above, find each thing we are talking about in there. adjustment of the clutch and changing it will both be in there. this will get you started in the right direction. dont do any unbolting until after you have adjusted it to proper deflection and know for certain your jetting is good to go.

you will need a gasket to replace the clutch also and you dont want to pull it apart just to check it without having one. the stock ones are glued to the cases and tear when coming off so you have to clean them off and replace with a new one to make sure it seals properly so we will work with that last.

steve

honda400ex2003
02-25-2011, 06:55 PM
thanks for the delete on the other one! I hope that helped out a bit for you lol

steve