ProTrax Steering Stem Collar Removal???

[danhung11]

EDIT

[redred55]

A little heat and a brass punch from the back side and they will pop right out.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by redred55
A little heat and a brass punch from the back side and they will pop right out.

Thanks Pete. I will check it out. While we are on the subject...

Do you have all the part numbers for rebuilds without going to Laegers' directly?

Thanks much,
Dan

PS - Happy Valentines Day! :p

[bigmatt61]

X2 I could also use this info, AND where to get some GOOD heims for the tie rods.

Matt

[troybilt]

talk to Joe (croat1) he has my rebuild kit and is trying to recreate one from it...
I also should have the part numbers.

[redred55]

Originally posted by danhung11
Thanks Pete. I will check it out. While we are on the subject...

Do you have all the part numbers for rebuilds without going to Laegers' directly?

Thanks much,
Dan

PS - Happy Valentines Day! :p

I wish I did-I'll be waiting Troy's response also.

[hontrx265r]

When I did mine I still got those bushings from laeger..however i got everything else from motion industries. I'm pretty sure they are nation wide because I got them in michigan and there is also one here in phoenix may want to check them out. They had everything, but also fk bearing is who most arm builders get there stuff from.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by hontrx265r
When I did mine I still got those bushings from laeger..however i got everything else from motion industries. I'm pretty sure they are nation wide because I got them in michigan and there is also one here in phoenix may want to check them out. They had everything, but also fk bearing is who most arm builders get there stuff from.

Have any part numbers?

Thanks,
Dan

[hontrx265r]

No its been a long time since i did that.. But all I did was take the bearings there and all the numbers were on everything.

[danhung11]

Troy,

They have a location in Topeka and also KC metro area. If you have all the parts used, I could run them by and get this rolling.

I know a lot of members are curious.

Let me know.
Dan

[troybilt]

There is only one bearing that is difficult to re-source... The rest is pretty straight forward. Joe is getting the bushings machined, using my extra set as a guide...

[danhung11]

Sounds good. I just figured it would be cheaper to buy them from a big supplier than it would be to have them machined. Either way, probably still cheaper than going to Laeger's.

Staying tuned...

[4wheelmx]

The parts numbers are TA1725Z, NAX1725Z, SBB10. Those are the upper and lower in the T-pin and the mono ball bearings. The brand name is IKO.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by 4wheelmx
The parts numbers are TA1725Z, NAX1725Z, SBB10. Those are the upper and lower in the T-pin and the mono ball bearings. The brand name is IKO.

Thanks for the information, this is in the right direction. When I try to download their catalog, there's about 50 available.

Is this the website you order from?

http://www.ikont.co.jp/eg/product/index.html

[4wheelmx]

I bought them through Motion Industries in Topeka Kansas . They carry the IKO brand bearings. I think they shipped them from Chicago.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by 4wheelmx
I bought them through Motion Industries in Topeka Kansas . They carry the IKO brand bearings. I think they shipped them from Chicago.

Awesome news. Thanks for sharing.

BTW - where in KS are you located?

[4wheelmx]

Twenty three miles south of Topeka.

[troybilt]

Do you ride at Lyndon? I'm trying to get Dan to go and ride with me there... I've never been.. :D

[4wheelmx]

I used to, I have not been there in probably three years. I am working on getting my MX R ready for the races in March.

[4wheelmx]

Originally posted by troybilt
Do you ride at Lyndon? I'm trying to get Dan to go and ride with me there... I've never been.. :D If you guys decide to go ride at Lyndon, let me know. I would be glad to meet you there. It would be nice to see more than just one 250R there.

[croat1]

hey dan:
i am investigating making the upper and lower aluminum bushings(parts in the back ground). prints are done and material is sitting in the garage. these are the parts Troy sent me. i'm making them as spares for my protraxs'.

as far as the steering stem and steering block oilite bushing: i tried searching all over the net. looks like it is a custom laeger design as far as size and stye (grease groove and o ring sealed). an oilite a arm bushing can be reworked relatively easily.

heres some rebuild info i have as far as parts (thanks to C41xracer):

left handed tie rod end: #4444T202
right handed tie rod end: #4444T201
O ring for stem and steering block: #9559K19
O ring for .875 mono ball: #9559k28
O ring for .990 mono ball: #9559k32

these are McMaster Carr numbers

i ordered all the above part numbers yesterday. i will post an update to verify fitment

[Langbolt]

Hey Croat1,

That's Awesome! I may need a set of those spacers...mine are all chewed up.

Let us know if they become available....

I'm trying to source the SEAL- 24x17x3 that goes in the bottom of the Pro-trax Spindle....

I've managed to get the IKO bearings....MAN that NBX1725Z was expensive!!!

I looked at these......and wondered if they would suit our purpose for spacers.....they're Stainless too!

:devil:

[danhung11]

Thank you Joe and Langbolt! This stuff needs to be condensed and sticky'd after it's complete.

[danhung11]

Langbolt,

Did you ever order from Rod End Supply? Do you have a part number for the tie rod ends? I need some quickly and like those Rod End Stainless ones. Otherwise, I'd just go with what croat1 posted. Thanks!

Also, need a couple of clevis(s) if someone has some new, need them quickly to send stem off for repair. I at least two of the parts in the picture below.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_1607.jpg

As far as the sticky thread, I think it would be a good idea to post some pictures of what the part is, then the actual part number. Seems like this particular topic comes up every few months.

Thanks,
Dan

[danhung11]

Great news, just spoke to the owner of Rod End Bearings. He more than likely has the rod ends in stock or could make some. The clevis(s) are interesting in that he might have something, or he can have them produced. To cut costs, he could send oversees or keep it in the states. Either way, the quality is very high in his words and I could have quantity in 50-100. I'm shipping out the rod ends and clevis(s) to him this weekend.

Even better news is, he's located in the metropolitan area that I'm from.

Stay tuned.

[Langbolt]

No I didn't order any rod ends....I lucked out by getting a good set from C41Xracer....I'm just waiting on getting the bottom seals for the Pro-Trax spindles and then I am going to take some pics and document with the Part#'s and post it up.

I'll take some pics this weekend and get started...since I have everything cleaned up and dis-assembled.

I agree, it's gonna be a popular thread

:devil:

[Langbolt]

DANHUNG,

Maybe this will help ?

[danhung11]

Originally posted by Langbolt
DANHUNG,

Maybe this will help ?

Can you email that to me?

daniel.k.hung@gmail.com

Thanks,
Dan

[Langbolt]

Which format would you like it in ? I uploaded a JPG....and the original is a AutoCAD2010 file.

:devil:

[danhung11]

Originally posted by Langbolt
Which format would you like it in ? I uploaded a JPG....and the original is a AutoCAD2010 file.


I already hijacked the jpg. :p So the autocad file please. I figure it wouldn't hurt to send along with the hardware, it could only help.

Thanks,
Dan

[Langbolt]

Originally posted by danhung11
I already hijacked the jpg. :p So the autocad file please. I figure it wouldn't hurt to send along with the hardware, it could only help.

Thanks,
Dan

Drawing sent.....be sure to let us know if they come through for ya!

[danhung11]

I visited Motion Industries today, the tie-rod ends for a pair was $43.26 total, that's one left and one right rod end with no jam nut. Looks like McMaster car is cheaper here. Motion was going to use a self-lubricating stainless unit manufactured by Aurora. If anyone wants these part numbers, they're:

1) 00098149;
2) 00098306.

I still plan to send one clevis and a pair of ends to Rod End Supply store, both business are closed on weekends which hinders me a little, but I'm working on it.

Thanks Langbolt for sending those file(s).

Dan

[danhung11]

The tie rod ends and jam nuts are confirmed, tie rods have grease zerks. If anyone needs a pair of jam nuts, let me know. You have to order in quantity of 50(R) and 25(L) so I have a few extra. Attached is the item description, once I complete the spreadsheet I will send to Langbolt for him to post in his other thread (http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=460593) .

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/9536aa1d.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/7a27d03f.jpg

The clevis was shipped out on Tues. He was clear upfront that he travels 60% of his work week, so it might take some time to get that rolling.

[4wheelmx]

How much do you want for two left, and two right hand jam nuts for the tie rod ends? Keep me informed on the clevises. I have a Pro-trax stem that needs two.

[danhung11]

If anyone needs tie rod ends, order the ones through Rod End Supply. Much higher quality and self lubricating. Part No. XM7 and XM7L. You will still need the jam nuts from McMaster Carr.

[4wheelmx]

Is there much of a price difference between the Rod End Supply ends verses the ones from McMaster Carr?

[danhung11]

Originally posted by 4wheelmx
Is there much of a price difference between the Rod End Supply ends verses the ones from McMaster Carr?

Yes, however I am not certain what retail Rod End Supply charges. That said, I cannot confirm the price differences at this time.

[danhung11]

I am inquiring about quantities of the rod ends, the price I was given was dealer price to test them. I am unsure what the retail price is since I contacted the supplier direct, not distributor or retail shop. Also unsure if they would typically sell to the public direct. Anyways, here is a picture of the rod-ends in the picture next to one another. You can see the differences. The weight is another thing... I do not have a scale but I am guessing the ones on the bottom are probably 15 grams heavier. The movement in the ball is also tighter...

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_1642.jpg

[danhung11]

I received this clevis today, it's a newer design from the brass style. Seems like it's all billet then coated with something - see pictures. I got them from Scott, had to give a left nut almost for two...unreal pricing for what it is, less material than a set of brake adapters - $100 a pop. :( Anyways, I am still working on seeing what it would cost to have something made. Cost vs. quauntity is always the kicker.

Does anyone know when Laeger changed the design of this clevis piece?? Seems like the first style was extremely over engineered to begin with, and the new piece is of less quality than the originals but the cost is the same... :huh

Take a look...

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_1767.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_1766.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd228/danhung11/100_1768.jpg

[troybilt]

100 bucks, dang... that's seems high... I bet I could get some Ti ones made for that...

hey good thing you got 2 nuts!! :D

[Langbolt]

Hey Dan,

Did the Rod end supplier say they couldn't come up with a clevis ?

I wonder if LAEGER's uses AURORA rod ends as they make custome pieces and may have made the clevises for them.

Well if ya wanted 200 of them.....LOL

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/435651935/Stainless_steel_Clevis.html

I sure hope mine don't wear out!!! I'll be greasing them after every ride if I have to pay $200 to replace them.

:(

[danhung11]

Originally posted by Langbolt
Did the Rod end supplier say they couldn't come up with a clevis ?

It's gonna be some time before I know what it will cost. ;)

[danhung11]

Anybody able to post a picture of the bolt/washers down at the bottom of the stem? I'm talking about the one bolt that holds the stem to the bearing in the frame.

Thanks in advance!
Dan