reposting banshee problems

[ranger505]

i posted last month about my banshee /its hard for me cause i dont have a computer. please help i have a banshee that starts up right away it sounds good but when i reev it up it sputters. when i drive it it goes until i give it gas then it like misses and sputters. i just rebuilded it about 3 months ago and it never ran good since new hot rods crank new pistons. i originally had 34mm carbs so i took it to a guy that is pretty good tuning. so he tuned it and it ran better but still did not have power like my dads so i asked the guy that tuned it and he said the carbs are to big so i purchesed some original carbs and took it back to him/ he then said it sounds like the crank might have spunn. i did not agree with him. so i bought a new coil that did not fix it. so know have a stator on order if that dosent fix it maybe the cdi box? i dont know could it be the crank? im sorry about not replying i just dont have a computer. please any help thanks

[Hondamaster5505]

Take a compression test.

If this mechanic seems shaky, do you really believe he tuned it in correctly? I would take a second look at your jetting.

When you rebuilt it, did you tighten all the cylinder/head bolts correctly? Use new gaskets? Seal the cases properly? Air leaks can wreak havoc on a motor.

Usually stators just go bad, not weak.

[ranger505]

i used all new gaskets no leaks that i can tell it has over 116 compression. the guy that tuned it seems pretty honest hes my neighbor.
it has 240 jets. i started it and let it run for awile took the plugs out and they were a little wet.

[Hondamaster5505]

Compression seems pretty low for a fresh rebuild. A fresh motor should be running around 125-130 with a stock head.

Is the coolant and oil clean? There's no coolant getting in the oil or vice-versa?

[ranger505]

the coil seems to have a good strong spark reeds look good is there any way of testing any thing else that you know of its a real bummer when i cant drive it. could the crank cause that?

[Hondamaster5505]

Originally posted by ranger505
the coil seems to have a good strong spark reeds look good is there any way of testing any thing else that you know of its a real bummer when i cant drive it. could the crank cause that?

I've never heard of the crank spinning on a banshee before.

What mix of gas are you using? Ratio?

[ranger505]

it has fresh oil looked good when i changed it/ coolant looks ok i have not drained the coolant since i rebuilded the motor / ratio 32.1

[Hondamaster5505]

hmm..

Are your carbs sync'd?

[ranger505]

i took the filters off and they look synced they are working together ?

[Hondamaster5505]

Originally posted by ranger505
i took the filters off and they look synced they are working together ?

It's kind of hard to tell by eye. Push the throttle to wide open. (full throttle)

There's little windows on the sides of the carb, on the slide area. Get a strong flashlight and check to see if the little "ping" dot is in the center of the window on each carb.

[Muggzy]

x2 on the compression. 116 is low for a fresh rebuild.

What mods have you got? Stock jets are 200. Almost anything you do to it will require larger jets. If you're all stock and jetted for cold weather under 1500 ft elevation, 240 sounds about right.

Even though you're running 32:1 fuel - oil ratio, make sure you're running a high quality synthetic or semi-synthetic 2-cycle oil, not the stuff off of Walmart's shelves. Not that the oil will fix your problem, but it will prevent one.

Also, get a Clymer's manual for the Banshee. It'll have the test numbers to ohm out the stator and help you through EVERYthing else you might want to do. It'll be the best $30 you ever spend.

[ranger505]

they are synced i put a friends carbs on and it still runs the same. the stator came in and i put that on still runs the same i dont know what else to check ..

[Muggzy]

Can you tell us what mods you've got? Exhaust? open air box? anything? You said you tried your friends carbs, but with what jets? Is his bike running the same mods as yours? If he's got aftermarket pipes and you don't, and you're running rich, then you just put the same problem back on your bike (assuming he's jetted properly for his set-up). You're not really giving us much to go on.

[Hondamaster5505]

Originally posted by Muggzy
Can you tell us what mods you've got? Exhaust? open air box? anything? You said you tried your friends carbs, but with what jets? Is his bike running the same mods as yours? If he's got aftermarket pipes and you don't, and you're running rich, then you just put the same problem back on your bike (assuming he's jetted properly for his set-up). You're not really giving us much to go on.

x2

And I'm still a little weary about the compression. That seems awfully low for a fresh build.

[Hondamaster5505]

Also, do you still have the TORS hooked up? (Throttle Over-Ride System)

If they are still on the carbs (the electronic box thing on top) and hooked up, that might be the cause of it. They're known to wreak havoc on you if they go bad. Just unplug them.

[ranger505]

i have a cool head with 22 doms, 66 bore ricks stator, t5 pipes single kn filters weisco pistons hot rod crank

[ranger505]

my friends carbs are 230s it has a slight port i know nothing about that but on the cylinds the port is a little thinner then normal

[ranger505]

im using a car compression tester and its real old. is that ok or should it be specific for atvs?

[ranger505]

no tors

[Muggzy]

When you say your "friends are 230's", I assume you're talking about stock carbs with 230 main jets? That's really lean for what you described, though I don't know what your elevation is, it still sounds REALLY lean.

"t5 pipes single kn filters " - you don't say if your air box is open (lid removed or holes drilled) or not, but let's say it is and assuming you're between sea level and 1500 feet with stock carbs;

You should be running 27.5 pilot jets, needle clips on position 4 (counted down from the top) and mains around 300-320. These are starting points for your jetting. You'll have to do some plug chops to dial it in. Idk about other carbs or "ported" (bored?) Mikuni carbs, can't help much there.

As for compression, warm up the engine, then disconnect the boots from the plugs and remove one plug at a time, install the tester in the cylinder missing the plug. With wide open throttle (WOT) kick repeatedly until the gauge stops increasing. A side note - grease the air fittings and use Teflon tape on all threaded connections (except the cylinder, this should have an o-ring) to ensure there are no leaks in the set-up.

Hope this helps