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BuB400
01-20-2011, 10:45 AM
I installed 450r fronts on my 400,which are great. But it shows how weak the rear shock is now. I was told a 450r rear shock won't bolt up to the 400, so does anyone have another suggestion for a cheap upgrade for the rear?

TORO1968
01-20-2011, 11:04 AM
I'd say you should look at installing a GT Thunder linkage and have them re-valve and re-spring your stock rear shock. That for sure will be the best bang for your buck.

Even if you do decide to install an aftermarket shock, I HIGHLY recommend you install a different linkage.

trailrider894
01-20-2011, 12:33 PM
To help you clear things up here.

1. Yes the 450r shock will bolt up.

2. Don't put the 450r rear shock on it its not an upgrade.

3.To clear up what TORO1968 said, ( not picking on you, but what you said was confusing )...... Get your 400ex rear shock revalved and re-sprung for your weight. It will make all the difference. The deal with the link, is that i suggest if you get the rear link, you need to get your shocks either done by C&D or GTThunder. They have to valve the shock to compensate for some things that the link changes.

4. I highly do not recommend changing the link when you use an aftermarket shock. The GTThunder link does two things, lowers the ride height and changes the progression rate of the shock. The 400ex's rear end bucks a-lot and the link fixes this......... HOWEVER...... Aftermarket shocks are designed to lower ride height and compensate for this progression problem. If you combine the two without the shock being PROPERLY SETUP for the link, it will not work good.




TORO1968, i really am not trying to a jerk or know it all. If what you said has worked for you in the past then thats awesome. But i honestly just see it all different than you.

TORO1968
01-20-2011, 02:47 PM
That's cool...I'm always glad to see the input of others. That's what makes these forums so great!

My post was a bit confusing...thanks for clearing it up.


My specific experience with aftermarket rear shocks for the 400EX is only the Elka shock and linkage I have on mine. They built my shock to work with their linkage (which is designed to do the same thing as the GT Thunder linkage).

I fully agree that an aftermarket rear shock must be set up to work with the linkage if they're going to be used together. In my opinion though, installing an aftermarket or re-valved stock shock without a new linkage on a 400EX is kind of a shame. The linkage really makes the biggest difference in removing the bucking issue that you mentioned.

Chukkinsod
01-20-2011, 04:07 PM
You can also send your stocker and get the guts upgraded, different spring and revalved to your riding style fairly affordable. I took mine to Tech Care Suspension here in MI and got everything above for around $200. Btm out at the dunes on G Outs and landings are gone. Never raced with the setup just tried to rub paint in the trails with my buds and go big at the dunes.

trailrider894
01-20-2011, 04:09 PM
Originally posted by Chukkinsod
You can also send your stocker and get the guts upgraded, different spring and revalved to your riding style fairly affordable. I took mine to Tech Care Suspension here in MI and got everything above for around $200. Btm out at the dunes on G Outs and landings are gone. Never raced with the setup just tried to rub paint in the trails with my buds and go big at the dunes.

Guts Upgrade = Re-Valve

Chukkinsod
01-20-2011, 04:13 PM
Not necessarily.....revalve is to move the shim plates around to support the different setups.........guts or heart transplant is all new insides

jensenracing77
01-20-2011, 07:09 PM
Originally posted by trailrider894
4. I highly do not recommend changing the link when you use an aftermarket shock. The GTThunder link does two things, lowers the ride height and changes the progression rate of the shock. The 400ex's rear end bucks a-lot and the link fixes this......... HOWEVER...... Aftermarket shocks are designed to lower ride height and compensate for this progression problem. If you combine the two without the shock being PROPERLY SETUP for the link, it will not work good.


for the 400EX i agree with that mostly. if using a complete aftermarket shock on the 400EX and set up for the riders conditions, the stock link is what you want. may not be true for other models.

trailrider894
01-20-2011, 09:17 PM
Originally posted by Chukkinsod
Not necessarily.....revalve is to move the shim plates around to support the different setups.........guts or heart transplant is all new insides

I understand your point. I am just used to talking about Race Tech, and there re-valves include the guts change.

CJM
01-20-2011, 09:25 PM
Only downside to the XC link iirc is it creates such travel in the rear you can hit the exhaust with your caliper wiith the stock shock.

Id LOVE to have one, but cant chance it right now to see wtf happens for the price they want.

AnotherNewb
01-20-2011, 09:49 PM
I've heard the 250r rear shock is a cheap upgrade.......

jcs003
01-21-2011, 02:49 AM
Originally posted by AnotherNewb
I've heard the 250r rear shock is a cheap upgrade.......

the trx250r shock is longer than a 400ex shock and will not work.

dustin_j
01-21-2011, 07:41 AM
Originally posted by CJM
Only downside to the XC link iirc is it creates such travel in the rear you can hit the exhaust with your caliper wiith the stock shock.

Id LOVE to have one, but cant chance it right now to see wtf happens for the price they want.

You can use spacers to prevent this. Also, the subframe can contact the sprocket nuts, so you'll need to bend it slightly (1/8 - 1/4"). These modifications aren't noticeable after you do them; the GTT links are awesome!

trailrider894
01-21-2011, 08:21 AM
Originally posted by dustin_j
You can use spacers to prevent this. Also, the subframe can contact the sprocket nuts, so you'll need to bend it slightly (1/8 - 1/4"). These modifications aren't noticeable after you do them; the GTT links are awesome!

Do you have a picture of where the subframe needs to be bent?

CJM
01-21-2011, 08:41 AM
Originally posted by dustin_j
You can use spacers to prevent this. Also, the subframe can contact the sprocket nuts, so you'll need to bend it slightly (1/8 - 1/4"). These modifications aren't noticeable after you do them; the GTT links are awesome!

I would be interested in some pictures of how yours looks after you modified it. Both the subframe and how much you spaced out the exhaust.

Thanks.

06typeS
01-21-2011, 08:53 AM
Mine will be going to a local shop for a rebuild (new seals, shock oil and nitrogen) and probably a spring upgrade. Rebuild is 100 bucks and the spring is going to run me another 100 from race tech.

To me well worth the cash

trailrider894
01-21-2011, 09:04 AM
Originally posted by 06typeS
Mine will be going to a local shop for a rebuild (new seals, shock oil and nitrogen) and probobly a spring upgrade. Rebuild is 100 bucks and the spring is going to run me another 100 from race tech.

To me well worth the cash

Agreed!! Race Tech is top notch!! Can't go wrong with Race Tech!!

dustin_j
01-21-2011, 11:27 AM
I could post a picture of where to bend the subframe, but you won't be able to see anything different. If you remove your rear shocks and set a 2x4 under your frame, so you're 1.5" off the ground. This should be full bottom out. You'll see where the sprocket nuts can touch the subframe (under full bottom out). It barely contacts, so I just hit it with a deadblow to bend it slightly. Sounds bad, but you're not really damaging anything (don't flatten the tubing).

I just made one inch cylindrical spacers out of aluminum to move out the silencer to clear the caliper. Again, you'll see how much to space it when your shocks are removed; you don't need the link to check. Hope this helps.

CJM
01-21-2011, 11:43 AM
So my muffler probably already clears it since its about 2 inches away from the subframe. I have a larger spacer I purposely put on from an older exhaust I had due to the way the lexx exhausts mount.

Also, you pushed the subframe in or out?

how do you like the ride and how much did it lower you. Right now my rear shock is set to have the swinger roughly (Id measure but my axle is out since im doing the bearings) 3-4 inches. I slightly scrape now but I can readjust the shock so its higher with the link.

Seems like a worthwhile upgrade if it keeps the rear from bouncing around like crazy.

dustin_j
01-21-2011, 12:58 PM
Originally posted by CJM
So my muffler probably already clears it since its about 2 inches away from the subframe. I have a larger spacer I purposely put on from an older exhaust I had due to the way the lexx exhausts mount.

Also, you pushed the subframe in or out?

how do you like the ride and how much did it lower you. Right now my rear shock is set to have the swinger roughly (Id measure but my axle is out since im doing the bearings) 3-4 inches. I slightly scrape now but I can readjust the shock so its higher with the link.

Seems like a worthwhile upgrade if it keeps the rear from bouncing around like crazy.

Remember, you're looking for all of the exhaust to clear, not just the mount. Push the subframe rail (by the battery) inward, towards the exhaust.

I'm not sure what you are saying about your rear shock setup? Are you talking race sag? I'd shoot more towards 4.5". I have the GTT mx link, and I love it. I also revalved and re-sprung my shock. Whoops are much better, coming up short on a double doesn't send you over the bars, and I think it even helps starts.

CJM
01-21-2011, 02:11 PM
Yes the sag, I heard it lowers it. Im looking at the XC link.

What happens with me is the whoops no matter what I do cause my rear to bounce like crazy unless I take it easy, if I go to fast over them the rear will jump so much it can hop side to side lol

RATPACK Z400
01-21-2011, 04:59 PM
What about a Z400 rear shock? if that would help I have an extra to sell cheap!

trailrider894
01-22-2011, 03:42 PM
Originally posted by RATPACK Z400
What about a Z400 rear shock? if that would help I have an extra to sell cheap!

It won't fit, the lower shock mount is to narrow on the Z, but you can put a EX shock on a Z.