400ex oil

i just got my used 1999 416ex yesterday and need a lil help. i want to change the oil before i do any mojor rideing, what kind should i use? where i live it is mostly dry and dusty. any help is greatly appreciated.

I would just use whatever weight that the Owner's Manual says to use. Your dry and dusty conditions shouldn't have anything to do with that.

[Leo]

I've been running 15w-50 in mine, no problems...

I was running 10w-40, but after a good day of riding it would be completely broken down (almost like water)..

Make sure to keep that air filter cleaned and well oiled!

Leo

[crday98]

i recommend you use Mobil 1 synthetic or tri synthetic formulas.you should be fine with the regular $5 a qt. stuff but you could also get the $7 a qt. stuff that is strictly made for motorcycles.it is much better than the junk Honda oil.i have been running the regualr in mine with no problems.i think the motorcycle stuff is the same as the regular,they are probably just trying to make more money off of it:D dry and dusty will have no effect on your oil,only the temp. of the area you ride.
there is an old(long) thread on the arguement that will be helpful.look it up with the "search"option.

[riz400]

I'd go with the Honda HP4. It is a synthetic blend. I have been using it since I got my 400 over two years ago. To me it is worth the cost. After installing my HRC piston a few weeks ago, I could see that there was little wear to my top end. I change my oil after about 8-10 hours of good riding.

You might want to check out the new Mobil 1 for motorcycles. I seen it at Auto Zone yesterday. Very expensive at $8.00 a quart.

[Dave400ex]

For my first oil change I used Golden Spectro 10w 40. I think I`m going to switch to Maxima Premium Oil ($3.49 32 oz.) or Maxima Synthetic Blend ($5.75 liter). The prices are from Rocky Mountain. I`m not sure yet.

[BigBore81]

I WOULDN'T USE MOBIL ONE SYNTHETIC OIL ITS NO GOOD FOR YOUR ENGINE IT MADE FOR CARS NOT QUADS SYNTHETIC CAR OIL WILL MAKE YOUR CLUTCH SLIP

[riz400]

Here's the Mobil 1 website. If you look under the facts link they talk about the different additives between automotive and motorcycle oils.

http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp

I use Mobil 1 15w50 in my '99 and have since new. Haven't had any problems at all--including clutch. I don't race but trail ride aggressively. 5200 miles (all on trails) after todays ride. Wal-Mart has 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 for about $18.00.

[BigBore81]

I'm just saying mobil one isn't the best thing for your quad you will get better more reliable life if you go with a motorcycle oil Any mortorcycle oil is better than mobil one I use castrol 4 stroke Racing oil this oil keeps your motor very cool and is only $8.00 a quart :-) its a little more than mobil but it is much worth it.

[crday98]

Originally posted by BigBore81
I WOULDN'T USE MOBIL ONE SYNTHETIC OIL ITS NO GOOD FOR YOUR ENGINE IT MADE FOR CARS NOT QUADS SYNTHETIC CAR OIL WILL MAKE YOUR CLUTCH SLIP
aaaaahhhhhhhhh,here we go again:rolleyes: where is gabe when you need him?:)

[400exdad]

When I got my 400 I hated the way the valves made noise after the oil got hot. I used Honda GN-4. Thought it was the best, since the book called for it. So, I adjusted the valves. Same thing. Well, we ride on occasion with Rockosmith..... he told about his success with Mobile 1 (5200 mi. see earlier post) and I decided to try the syntehtic oil for the first time. Guess what? Valve train much quieter! I'd say go the Mobile 1. However, when I was into cars..... quite some time ago, I read that if a motor is already "using" (as in burning) regular oil, oil consumption will most likely increase with synthetic. That may or may not be true today.... Good Luck.

i use honda HP4 15w-50. it takes alot more than the gn-4 crap only thing i noticed was the clutch will slip bearly when warming up but after i used the clutch once it goes away cause the oil gets in between the plates then.if you use this just hold the clutch in for like 10-20 sec. during warm up to get the oil in between the plates

[crday98]

Originally posted by LRD TRX250R
i use honda HP4 15w-50. it takes alot more than the gn-4 crap only thing i noticed was the clutch will slip bearly when warming up but after i used the clutch once it goes away cause the oil gets in between the plates then.if you use this just hold the clutch in for like 10-20 sec. during warm up to get the oil in between the plates
it sounds like your oil isn't the problem it sounds like your clutch is worn or needs adjustment but if it is the oil,i would suggest a thinner oil if it takes that long for the plates to get wet.you are just looking for problems down the road on my opinion.

Originally posted by crday98

aaaaahhhhhhhhh,here we go again:rolleyes: where is gabe when you need him?:)

LOL,,Don't ya love these oil questions.....bigbore the oil there probably talking about is the mobil 1 V twin oil,,,which is made for high revving bike engines,,,,that's what I use too,,,but $8 a quart is crazy,,,I think I'm goin with some maxima,,next oil change.

[knighttime]

I'm staying with the MOBIL 1 synthetic with the crotch rocket on the front. It makes me go fast. $8.00 a quart is expensive for oil, but I look at is as thats only 2-3 beers + tip at the local bar. Actually a bottle of Budweiser at the bar I go to is only $1.75.

Well I just got my rear shock, brake pads, and 4 quarts of oil from Terry. I decided to go with maxima oil because it was $3.50 a quart. Well I got the synthetic maxima oil,,,and it is cheaper than the mobil 1 but only by 85 cents,,,,woooo hoooooo I'm rich..:D

[Tommy 17]

haha rico every cent helps a alcoholic hahahaha j.k

I base my usage of Mobil 1 on past experience and the in-depth oil analysis that Motorcycle Consumer News did on the differences between automotive oil and motorcycle specific. If anyone is interested, this analysis was published in the August, October, and November 2000 issues. The bottom line (according to MCN and their lab tests) is that Mobil 1 is superior in every way to standard oils--automotive or motorcycle and superior to other synthetic oils in almost every way. The additive packages in Mobil 1 automotive and motorcycle specific are virtually identical--only the price is substantially different.

There's a big post on this in the maintenance forum. After doing my research, I'm going to go with Amsoil. Haven't ordered any yet, but I will soon. I'm even going to try soon in my car too.

[crday98]

Originally posted by rockosmith
The additive packages in Mobil 1 automotive and motorcycle specific are virtually identical--only the price is substantially different. i'm with you 100%,i have seen plenty of articles stating the same for many different brands of oil.gabe has provided some valuable facts on this subject but i haven't seen him here lately.there is an old thread on this but i think it is from the old site.if leo could possibly dig it up or post a link to it?????i have had no problems with the synthetic automotive Mobil 1.

[Holty]

I use the Amsoil 4stroke oil and it works great. I get it for about $5.75 a quart.

[Scott]

I really doubt there are very many people posting in here that ride SO perfectly that the fractions of a hp that may be lost to parasitic losses in the crankcase from different viscostiy oils actually show up in their lap times.

20 years ago there were some oils that were substantially better than others. QuakerState used to be horrible for parafin buildup in engines. That was then, this is now. Oils are ALL far superior to the gunk that used to be in the cans when most of you were born. How often you change your oil will have far more impact on your engine than the brand of oil you run. In my opinion, if you're paying $3.50, $5.00, or $8.00 a quart, your just pi$$ing your money away. Personally, I use Castrol GTX at the weight specified by the manufacturer for the temperatures where I live. Normally it's about $1.50 a quart. Neither one of my quads are showing signs of smoking. Both are 2000 models. Both have 2 seasons of riding, and one I use to pull a mower around the yard for about 4 hours each week, 1st gear midrange. That means essentially now air moving through the oil cooler on the Wolverine. No problems with the oil yet.

Is the extra $5 per quart of oil worth the 0.001 hp you're gaining due to the "Advanced specially formulated, motorcycle specific engine oil additives package" you're paying for?

But hey, it's your money. Spend it how you want.

[86atc250r]

The Mobil1 I use and recommend is the automotive variety. I'm not much of a fan of the "Motorcycle" oils out there.

I could go indepth, but I've been there and done that many times on this board and others and don't really feel like posting all that again unless it's really going to be necessary...

HP is not the issue. Oil breakdown is. If you think all oils are the same anymore, you're mistaken - granted most oils are better than what they were years ago, that doesn't make them all the same. Take a quick look at some datasheets and you'll find out outherwise pretty quickly. Look especially toward flash point and cold pumpability numbers. Then there's the info that's harder to find, like the amount of VI improver (if any - in the case of many synthetics) - especially when you're buying oil from a marketing group like Castrol who simply repackages someone else's oil.

Here's my experience (all technical discussion omitted for brevity).

I bought my EX in Aug of 1999. It started blowing the smoke on decel before I even considered it broken in (keep in mind it gets very hot in Aug here). At that time, I was informed that the factory fill is 10w40 Castrol, which according to the owner's manual is fine.

I thought about it for a while and determined that I'd drink my old motor oil before I'd let the dealer tear apart my new engine, just to tell me he didn't find a problem.... After some thought, I decided that the oil might be prematurely breaking down & some tests needed to be performed.

I drained the oil, it was very black and thin. I changed to Castrol GTX 20w50.

The 20w50 eliminated the smoke - needless to say, I was pretty happy.. Then a few rides later, the smoke on decel returned (keep in mind that I don't grandma this quad around).

I again drained the oil, only to find it black and very thin.

I then decided to give Mobil1 15w50 a try, knowing the properties of synthetic oils are generally superior to that of conventional oils.

Mobil1 also eliminated the smoke. Now... I generally change my oil much more often than necessary, so with that in mind, I left the oil in longer than what I normally would, to see how it would hold up.

It held up extremely well. When I drained it, it was still a very nice color and hadn't turned thin.

I then started modifying my engine - I now have a fairly modified engine that is capable of outrunning the piped Raptors I've run against. I still get the same results with the oil, consistantly - and for those of you that preach clutch slippage - I'm still on my stock clutch, and this bike has been raced for over 1.5 years now in the Expert class in one to two hour cross country events. Clutch slippage is more of a factor of deposits on the friction plates (from not changing oil at reasonable intervals) and the possible use of friction modifiers (which Mobil1 15w50 does not have).

With that all said, if you're too cheap to buy $4/qt oil, you can probably get by with a quality automotive 20w50 most of the year and change it often. But during the cold months, a conventional 20w50 is going to contain too much pariffin (synthetic has little if any pariffin) and you'll need to switch to a lighter viscosity.

Personally, for me, the extra protection is well worth $8 an oil change (vs $4 an oil change for quality conventional oil) even if it does nothing more than keeping me from smelling oil burn when I slow down on the trail.

[kabd69667]

Thats the longest post i've seen in a long time

[crday98]

AHMEN!

[Scott]

To each their own. I have not seen any evidence of thermal breakdown in either quad. I change my oil after about 3 or 4 rides, it's not black, doesn't smoke during deceleration. If yours did, and synthetics work for you, cool. As for parafin, I disagree completely. I've ran castrol gtx as long as I've been driving. I've put 160,000 miles on an S-10 with a 2.8 and a 5spd. I don't have parafin buildup in the vavle covers, none visible in th evalve train, and no oil galley problems. If parafin was going to be a problem, I think it would have shown up by now.
I've put 23,000 miles on a Silverado since April of this year, changing oil according to GM's computer/owners manual, using only GTX, just like always. No problems. Actually, no oil related problems in any vehicle in the last 12 years.
I'm not trying to say everyone should be running GTX or that Castrol is the best brand on the market. What I am saying is this is my experience with my vehicles, and this is how they were maintained. Since I haven't had any problems using regular motor oil, I think the additional cost of synthetics is a waste of money. If you didn't like using Castrol and prefer Synthetic Mobile1, well I guress that's why there's more than one brand on the market...

[86atc250r]

I didn't say paraffin would build up from Castrol, I've had pretty good luck with it and Valvoline in my old Vette. The paraffin/ash buildup problem tends to occur more in Quaker State and Pennzoil vehicles that don't maintain a good oil change schedule, even with today's versions of these oils.

However, it's the significant amount of paraffin in conventional oil that tends to crystalize in cold weather (gelling) which is why you don't want to run that 20w50 when the temperature drops (if you are in an area of the country that gets cold).

This is also the reason that Mobil1 15w50 can have better cold pumpability numbers than many conventional 5w30's....

Comparing automotive experience to air cooled race style ATV use is apples to oranges and not really valid.

Yes, I use conventional oils in my two Trucks and Vette with great success as long as you keep the oil changed. However, neither vehicle even approachs the engine load, oil temps, or exteneded high RPM use that my ATV does - hence the differences in the oils are not nearly as profound.

However, using synthetic in an automotive environment does allow for more of a fudge factor on change intervals and such if you so desire to utilize them for that purpose. They also likely provide far more protection than what's necesary for a liquid cooled engine that has a fairly easy life...

Undoubtedly, if you are concerned about engine life and keeping buildups to a minimum, keeping a good oil change schedule is a must.

I just know from experience that my ATV, two buddies with 400s, and the probably hundreds of people with 400's on the net that I have talked to over the past couple years have had oil burn problems with conventional and lighter viscosity oils that have been cured with Mobil1 15w50.... It won't cure a physical engine problem, but it will fix oil breakdown problems....

Originally posted by 86atc250r
However, it's the significant amount of paraffin in conventional oil that tends to crystalize in cold weather (gelling) which is why you don't want to run that 20w50 when the temperature drops (if you are in an area of the country that gets cold).

Does that go for maxima extra 15w-50 synthetic.<---100% synthetic. Or is that mainly for just conventional oils..cuz it's getting cold here in KY. Also Gabe,,,,,if you run synthetic should you always run sythetic,,or is it OK to run synthetic in the warmer months of the year and then go to a different conventional wieght oil in the winter. I've been running 15w-50 synthetic oil all year and now that it's gotten cold,,I can't decide on what's best...Thanks.

[86atc250r]

100% synthetics should have very little pariffin. To be sure of it's cold pumpability, try to get ahold of a datasheet.

No, it won't hurt anything to switch back and forth...

[Dave400ex]

Right now I have Golden Spectro 10w40 in my engine. 10w40 was in it when I got it new and is the recommended oil for my area. I ride in the snow some. I want to switch to Maxima Synthetic Blend 10w40. Do you think this oil would be better? Would it be alright to ride in the snow with? It doesn`t cost that much at $5.75 a liter from Rocky Mountain. What should I do? Thanks.

Originally posted by crday98

it sounds like your oil isn't the problem it sounds like your clutch is worn or needs adjustment but if it is the oil,i would suggest a thinner oil if it takes that long for the plates to get wet.you are just looking for problems down the road on my opinion.

no,my friend has a yz250f that does the same thing,it oil has to get to the plates , i checked my clutch after i made the switch and they were still good,i think the oil dosen't stick to the plates as much during no operation or some bs like that