Laeger T-pin set up

[Heatpump#4]

So ive been sitting here the past couple of days trying to decide if i should get the Laeger T-Pin set up or not for my ltr i know there 2500 for just the arms but i want something no one else is running for this build imma do. yes i know there expensive. but has anyone that has ran them noticed a differance between these and like a walsh set up? just curious had walsh on everything else. Thanks

[Lasher]

Walsh is making a new a-arm set for this season. LTR is first quad that he will make them for, so contact him.

Other than Lawson...you could be the only one with these "secret" arms...

[400exrider707]

Is there really anything to gain there? I'd bet it wouldn't help much as far as travel goes. If at all. Really cool arms none the less. I've always wanted a Laeger narrow frame hybrid.

[fastredrider44]

Originally posted by Heatpump#4
i want something no one else is running

This is a double edged sword, trying to get something to work that doesn't have as much feedback from other riders can be difficult, and parts will not be as easily available.

[Scro]

Originally posted by 400exrider707
Is there really anything to gain there? I'd bet it wouldn't help much as far as travel goes. If at all. Really cool arms none the less. I've always wanted a Laeger narrow frame hybrid.

And if there is any travel to gain, would there be any benefit to it? For cornering on an MX track, it seems as though there would be a sweet spot for front end travel. Just enough to soak up the jumps and whoops, but no so much that it will cause it to roll in the turns. Desert racing would be a different story. I really don't see the benefit of a front end with tons of travel that's not usable for the situation.

I'm just making general statements. I don't have experience with either of these front ends.

[TWISTED]

I know people that run these, and they love them, BUT they also say that they require a bit more maintenance than a conventional setup.......

[protraxrptr17]

I've been running mine since '03 and I am just now getting a little slack in the tie rod clevises which makes sense because those zerks in particular have never wanted to take grease. I grease everything else regularly and do not overdo it with a pressure washer.

Love the way it handles. Once you get used to it, everything else doesn't feel right. Not bad, just not "right". I also have an LTR with Walsh arms, so I do know the difference first hand. the bike with the T-pin is a Raptor. NOTHING can corner with it. Don't know if its the front end or the massive amount of other stuff I have done to it. I like it because loads on the front end dont increase steering effort. You will need a good steering damper with a T-pin. Some people say they dont turn as sharp (as far as stop to stop). Never noticed a problem with mine. I have 15 inches of front travel with no bind, minimal bump steer an camber change. Tie rods hitting the frame is the only limiting factor. Get one and if you dont like it, I will trade you the Walsh front end off my LTR.:D

[400exrider707]

For the cost especially, what is there to be gained? What good is 15" of travel if you can't use it?

The whole idea behind the pro-trax front end is unlimited vertical travel right? There are other limits beyond this though. Like you said, your tie rod ends could hit the frame. Obviously the arm should be designed so this DOESN'T happen. The frame width and design as well as the steering geometry are all goign to play a role for how much travel you can actually use on a given front end with a given width (max of 50" for MX).

So like I said, what is there to be gained on an LTR? Is there issues now with the balljoints binding?

Don't get me wrong, the Pro-Trax setup is SWEET, but for 90% of people out there, completely useless for it's designed intentions. I could see the steering being a lot lighter, but I've rode on some really light steering balljoint equipped front ends too.

I think this design would really shine on miniquads that have limited travel due to their short a-arm designs.

[Heatpump#4]

Thanks Protraxrptr17 and i think the way you can get the tie rod ends to stop hitting the frame at full travel is the lenght of your shocks... correct me if im wrong. i had a friend that had a laeger built 426 a few years back and thats part the reason why i wanna try them. and i read somewhere that most of your long travel a arms now are like around 12 or 13 inches of travel and the laegers are at like 16, it just looks like the way they have them designed they just move alot free'er too. i just figured the added travel is bound to help on the some of the tracks i ride on that get really choppy Budds for one. Thanks for your input everyone

[protraxrptr17]

You will use 15 inches if you have it. You can run your shocks much softer because they have more time to control before bottoming. I do anyway. When I said the tie rods hit the frame, I meant that is the maximum travel I can have before that happens. The shock actually stop before that happens if they are the proper length. Has nothing to do with the design of the arms. That is just the first thing that interferes. Like I said before, I'm not saying that it should be written in the bible that it is the best, just sayin I have ridden both and I choose the t-pin. The advantages seem to make a difference to me. No bind, easy steer at all angles and loads, lasts longer, no heims to get gritty and stiff, maximum travel of any front end, its different, newbs will ask "whats that?". Those are all facts.