PDA

View Full Version : electrical issues



honda380
12-20-2010, 10:24 PM
ive been fighting this one for a while and i cant seem to figure it out. my 88 will run fine for a few minutes until it warms up, then it will lose spark. i thought it was a coil, so i went ahead and replaced it and it still does the same thing. i then tested all the electrical components (new coil included) with the multi meter and they all check out fine when cold. i just want to get a second opinion before i start replacing expensive things...

wilkin250r
12-21-2010, 07:41 AM
Something that cuts out after a few minutes is most likely the stator, because that's the component that's going through the most change in those first few minutes as the bike warms up.

But that's not a guarentee. The biggest problem with intermittent problems is that you can't find them unless it's actually happening.

For just a few extra bucks and a trip to Radio Shack, I could probably find a way to diagnose your stator...

DnB_racing
12-21-2010, 08:04 AM
Ive also heard that the flyheel will sometimes loose its magnatisim when it gets old and acks up when hot

honda380
12-21-2010, 10:47 PM
i was leaning toward the stator as well... im going to try to test it after it quits to see what it reads...

atvmxr
12-22-2010, 06:58 AM
I have had a couple stators that have correct specs per the manual, but did not work

i think from here on out, the moment I have electrical problems Im just going to buy a new stator.

fearlessfred
12-22-2010, 05:06 PM
Originally posted by atvmxr
I have had a couple stators that have correct specs per the manual, but did not work

i think from here on out, the moment I have electrical problems Im just going to buy a new stator. same experance here about the testing.this may seem like a stupid idea,but i would pull the stater cover and run motor and cool the stater and see if the run time extends or just the oppisite,add heat and see if it wont run.if either one changes then you can be sure that it is the stater.i know that you said that you tested elec. componants ,but did you ck. to see if you had good clean and tight grounds .a loose ground causes resistance which causes heat that causes and on and on

honda380
12-22-2010, 07:32 PM
ya, i tried cleaning all my connections and grounds and all that jazz. didnt change anything though. im going to guess its the stator. now a question about that, if i get the 200w from ricky stator, can i run my stock headlight if i wanted to?

fearlessfred
12-22-2010, 10:32 PM
Originally posted by honda380
ya, i tried cleaning all my connections and grounds and all that jazz. didnt change anything though. im going to guess its the stator. now a question about that, if i get the 200w from ricky stator, can i run my stock headlight if i wanted to? yes you will be able to run more stock lighting. the lighting coils and ignition coils in the stater are seperate and have nothing to do with each other .the 200 watts is refering to the lighting coils .if i remember correctly that is double over stock.

wilkin250r
12-23-2010, 07:51 PM
Yes, you can run your stock lights, it won't "overpower" them. If you start blowing lights, it isn't because of the stator, it's because of the voltage regulator.

However, like most everything in life, there is a trade-off. High-output stators suffer low voltage at low RPMs. When your stock lights used to be full brightness at idle, they won't be with a high-output stator. In fact, you'll barely even be able to tell they are on. When you rev your engine, they'll get bright again, so it's not a problem when you're running, but they'll dim again as soon as you stop and idle.

I wouldn't get a high-output stator unless you actually plan on running more lights. Otherwise, it's not worth it.

fearlessfred
12-23-2010, 08:39 PM
Originally posted by wilkin250r
Yes, you can run your stock lights, it won't "overpower" them. If you start blowing lights, it isn't because of the stator, it's because of the voltage regulator.

However, like most everything in life, there is a trade-off. High-output stators suffer low voltage at low RPMs. When your stock lights used to be full brightness at idle, they won't be with a high-output stator. In fact, you'll barely even be able to tell they are on. When you rev your engine, they'll get bright again, so it's not a problem when you're running, but they'll dim again as soon as you stop and idle.

I wouldn't get a high-output stator unless you actually plan on running more lights. Otherwise, it's not worth it. i definitly agree with this.i have experanced this with desert nite races. if you dont need it dont get it