top end rebuild

[logant14]

how hard is it to rebuild the top end? i have no experience nor does my dad. our friend was going to help me but he is on vacation and i would like to start. i have a service manual. thanks

[PaRedneckRiders]

Not hard at all as long as you have some common sense.
Its good you have a manual but if it helps, tape up all the bolts and label them.
Also take alot of pictures either on like your phone if it takes decent pics or on a camera, so if you get stuck somewhere you can refer the the pictures you took as you were tearing it down.

Make sure to remove the cam chain tensioner before you try and take the cam out other wise it will be a real pain.

But ya follow the book and pictures and you shouldn't have any problems.

[logant14]

ok thanks i found a new wiseco piston 10-1 even though its only 85.5mm do you think it will run any better?

[CJM]

Super easy really. Make sure you use the right tools, have a torque wrench (1/4 and 3/8 drive would be best), metric tools, large metric allen keys get the manual and gaskets and go to town.

You can ask us anytime you want and you should get some help.

[PaRedneckRiders]

Would just buy an 87mm wiseco and take the piston and cylinder to the local dealer maybe even machine shop and have them bore it for that piston.

87mm (416) 11:1 wiseco would run a good bit better than a 85.5mm 10:1 wiseco.

With 11:1 you should be fine on premium pump gas (92,93 octane) as long as your not running an advanced timing key.

[PaRedneckRiders]

Also what your budget to do this cause if you have a decent amount i would go with the 11:1 416, GTT HD headstuds and either a stage 1 or 2 Hot cam

[CJM]

Always go for higher compression, you will get more power and its worth it in the end.

You want to do it easy and spend as little as possible just get a stock piston with 11:1 comp, you want to make it even more powerful bore it to 416 and do 11:1 as PA suggested.

[logant14]

am going to run a key to and dont really want to spend the extra for 93

[CJM]

Might want to stick to 10:1 if your gonna run a key cause if you do a higher compression and a key it may overheat even with high octane fuel.

[logant14]

if i go with 10-1 do i need to do any thing special with the valves, my dad wants to know

[bherriman]

Stock valves will be fine. While you have it apart it is a good idea to go ahead and do the valve seals and replace the valve springs if they are weak. While the valves are out clean all the carbon off them and be sure to lap them back in.

[CJM]

Trick to lapping:

Get a power drill of some kind and some lapping compound, put the valve in the head and put some grinding compound around it, then chuck the valve into the drill and have at it. Much easier than a valve grinder stick.

Also removing carbon: I took an angle grinder and used a knotted wire brush cup and it worked like a charm.

[bherriman]

Originally posted by CJM
Trick to lapping:

Get a power drill of some kind and some lapping compound, put the valve in the head and put some grinding compound around it, then chuck the valve into the drill and have at it. Much easier than a valve grinder stick.

Also removing carbon: I took an angle grinder and used a knotted wire brush cup and it worked like a charm.



I use a drill about 50% of the time, but I run it at a very low speed. You are right though...works good.

[CJM]

Originally posted by bherriman
I use a drill about 50% of the time, but I run it at a very low speed. You are right though...works good.

Yes, low speed is best..maybe like less than 400rpm or so.

Old engine builder buddy of mine taught me that trick. He also said you could take the suction cup tool and cut it down and chuck it too but thats more work and mostly for things you cant get to with a drill.

[bherriman]

Originally posted by CJM
Yes, low speed is best..maybe like less than 400rpm or so.

Old engine builder buddy of mine taught me that trick. He also said you could take the suction cup tool and cut it down and chuck it too but thats more work and mostly for things you cant get to with a drill.



Yea...good compound is also your friend. On our high dollar, high HP motors we always use the little suction cup deal but..a drill really does fine for other things.

[CJM]

I just lack the patience for the suction cup lol. Drill takes less than 30 secs per, cup takes forever it seems.

[bherriman]

Ha ha I hear ya...morale of the story? Lap your valves correctly with either method lol.

[logant14]

well started it and i cant get the head cover to come off. i go all the bolts i could see and tapped it with a hammer and some wood. wont budge?

[bherriman]

You sure you got all the bolts out? Even the bigger ( i think its 12 or 14mm) one right in the middle on top? Theres really no reason it should be stuck. Also, a rubber mallet works best.

[CJM]

make sure you got all the bolts out, there are the ones on the valve cover, and 4 large nuts once you get the cover off. You also must remove the cam.

Might also want to finesse it some more with the wood and hammer.