Advice needed on building a stroker

[fauxamish]

I need advice on what the next step should be with my engine. I currently have a 416 with 11:1 compression, P&P head, hot cam stage 2, a lightened flywheel and I have converted the engine to kickstart. I am running a 450R carb. I race TT and some MX and can beat 450's right now (not to brag, but I pulled 2nd in the holeshot at Orrville in 16-24 B and finished 3rd in the race, got 4th in other race that day and 4th at Ashtabula)

Anyways, the bike is plenty fast already, but I want to go faster. I see my options at this point as boring out to a 440, or stroking my current bore, resulting in a 440. My goal is to stay under 450. For stroker cranks: what else would I need to add to my bike to keep it reliable? Are Powroll and HotRods my only options? Does anyone have experience with these?

I guess my main question is: what are the advantages/disadvantage or stroking vs. boring to 440?

Thanks to anyone that helps.

[rubbersdown]

Stroking is much more reliable than boring. You will not have to worry AS MUCH about the blown head gaskets, pulled studs or any of that stuff. Plus the bike will run cooler than it would having a large overbore.

[Wheelie]

I've been running a Powroll stroker with their 'tough rod' (Falicon) since April of 06'. Zero issues with this setup to date and it gets run very hard.

Cons to a stroker: cost and build time due to splitting the cases.

Pros: Less heat, more power, more reliable (general consensus, either setup will be reliable if built well), bulletproof lower end.

My 02.

[fauxamish]

Thanks guys. I was pretty much set on building a stroker anyways. Now, I saw Powroll has 2 kits, one that uses the Falicon rod like wheelie has and one that uses the stock rod and includes the piston and everything. Does anyone know how much stronger the HD rod is than the OEM rod and is it worth the extra money?

Here is the link: http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_TRX400EX.htm

[Wheelie]

Spend the extra money and get the HD rod. The stock rod becomes the weak leak on a modded motor.

With the HD rod, you'll have the comfort of knowing that regardless of what is done to the engine, the bottom end will be solid.

[rubbersdown]

Agree ^^^ get the HD rod. Falicon is the best money can buy, you will love it.

[fauxamish]

Yeah I was just looking on there website some more and realized that the cheaper crank isn't the shorter rod, meaning I have to buy a $270 piston if I need to replace the piston. Definitely going with the HD crank now. I'll just sell some of my extra parts (I think I might be a hoarder lol)

What mods does the piston need, just a few mm taken off of the skirt? Should I go with a stage 3 cam or keep my stage 2?

[Wheelie]

You can buy any stock wrist pin location piston and have it fitted to the crank. Send the piston to them and they can clearance the skirt for you.

The stage 3 favors strong mid-upper rpm power. Low end torque is decent. I was toying with the idea of installing a stg 2 in mine to bring back some low-mid torque--after adding timing and converting to E-85 I decided against it.

[drew416ex]

Deff go with the stage 3. I had a stage 2 in mine and it fell on its face in the upper rpm range to the point that I could barely hit the stock rev limit. Switched to the stage 3 and now it redlines no problems and I didnt lose any lowend.