Carb?

[hartwill]

I was thinking about going up from my stock carb to a 36 or 38mm, if I do this would I need a different rad valve/reed cage? Also what size do you guys recomend? I have an 86 motor with long rod, and spacer plate , minor porting, and a cr head gasket, also I have what I believe is a fmf sst pipe (nothing on it other than fmf and some signature) and a turbinecore 2 silencer. However I am thinking about switching to my sparks silencer what do you guys think? Thanks guys. Oh and if any one has a sparks pipe for a good price I am interested. Thanks

[JTRtrx250r]

I remember making that change and was real glad I did. I think for the Rad valve you might have to get the 38-39mm rubber boot. I made it work w/ the regular boot but it was tuff, but can tell the rubber boot isn't happy (still plan on getting the oversize boot as Ive heard the original will tear..but so far its been great

after swapping from the old stocker, my R started better, idled smoother, and went alot faster

good luck

[speedfreek]

I would get at least a 38mm.

[hartwill]

I bought a 38mm what would be a good starting point for jetting? I live in ohio so I believe I'm about 700' above sea level. Kinda just need a good starting point. Thanks

[hartwill]

oH yea it's a 38mm air Stryker and I also got a boysen rad valve and boot for the cr250, maybe this will help.

I can give you a quick guide line:

Main Jet size goes down with higher elevation, we used .6%-.75% in size smaller for every 1000 feet in higher elevation.
Jet Needle clip position goes down with higher elevation; like from 4th position to 3rd clip position

Air screw opening (# of turns) goes out with higher elevation; like 1 3/4 turns to 2 ½ turns, or a ¼ turn for every 1000 feet.

I would set a stock 250R on pump gas (92 Oct) at 152 main, 42 Pilot, 3rd needle clip, 1 7/8 turns out on the air screw...this is for socal at 500 feet & 60-100 degrees. From here you can use the guide lines posted above.

Carlos.